LOUIS  PELZER 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

IN  THE 

MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF  MAECHES  AND  ACTIVITIES 
OF  THE  FIRST  REGIMENT  UNITED  STATES 
DRAGOONS  IN  THE  MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY 
BETWEEN      THE      YEARS      1833      AND      1850 


BY 

LOUIS  PELZER 


PUBLISHED  AT  IOWA  CITY  IOWA  IN  1917  BY 
THE  STATE  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY  OF  IOWA 


■;«^' 


EDITOR'S  INTRODUCTION 

Many  of  the  marches  and  other  activities  of  the 
First  Regiment  of  United  States  Dragoons  be- 
tween the  years  1833  and  1850  were  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  Iowa  country.  And  so  the 
early  history  of  this  military  unit  comes  within 
the  scope  of  the  researches  and  publications  of 
The  State  Historical  Society  of  Iowa. 

Since  the  later  activities  of  the  First  Regi- 
ment between  the  years  1850  and  1861  were 
mainly  in  the  region  of  the  Far  West,  their  his- 
tory is  not  traced  in  this  volume. 

Benj.  F.  Shambaugh 

Office  of  the  Superintendent  and  Editor 

The  State  Historical  Society  op  Iowa 

Iowa  Cit'    Iowa 


AUTHOR'S  PREFACE 

Theee  regiments  of  dragoons  have  appeared  upon 
the  military  rosters  of  the  United  States.  The  First 
Regiment  of  Dragoons  —  the  subject  of  this  volume 
—  existed  from  March  2,  1833,  to  August  3,  1861. 
Until  about  1850  this  unit  served  largely  in  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley  in  the  work  of  frontier  defense,  gar- 
rison duty,  treaty  negotiations,  marches,  expeditions, 
patrol  duty,  exploration,  and  in  the  enforcement  of 
federal  laws. 

These  services  influenced  the  westward  drift  of 
population,  complementing  the  work  of  the  ex- 
plorers, the  missionaries,  the  boatmen,  the  Indian 
traders,  the  surveyors,  and  the  engineers.  The  an- 
nals of  our  western  posts  have  not  yet  passed  into 
such  picturesque  accounts  as  hover  about  Quebec, 
Ticonderoga,  or  Pitt.  The  names  of  great  soldiers 
in  the  frontier  army  are  few.  Nor  do  military  glory 
and  renown  follow  the  American  soldiers  over  their 
western  trails.  But  homage  and  recognition  are  due 
to  the  thousands  of  plain,  frontier  soldiers  for  their 
quiet  unadorned  and  often  unheralded  services  — 
whether  at  lonely  Mississippi  River  posts,  in  the 
protection  of  trade  caravans,  in  travels  over  the 
cacti-covered  plains,  or  in  marches  from  post  to 
post. 


viii  AUTHOR'S  PREFACE 

A  regimental  history  of  the  First  United  States 
Dragoons  yields  a  cross  sectional  view  of  the  work 
of  the  frontier  army  in  the  West.  Such  history  has 
been  preserved  in  officers'  reports,  the  accounts  of 
travellers,  post  records,  diaries,  journals,  order 
books,  and  correspondence.  This  material,  contain- 
ing facts,  descriptions,  narratives,  and  impressions, 
enriches  our  knowledge  of  the  staples  of  western 
history. 

This  volume  of  western  military  history  is  an 
outgrowth  of  the  writer's  Henry  Dodge.  Chapters 
IV  and  VI  of  the  present  volume  are  a  recasting  of 
chapters  VIII  and  IX  of  that  biography.  Other 
chapters  have  been  read  at  the  spring  meetings  of 
the  Mississippi  Valley  Historical  Association  at 
Nashville  and  at  Chicago.  The  author  believes  that 
Captain  Boone's  Journal  in  the  appendix  is  printed 
for  the  first  time.  In  the  case  of  the  spelling  of 
Indian  names  the  author  has  attempted  to  follow 
that  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology.  Ac- 
knowledgments are  due  to  Dr.  Benj.  F.  Shambaugh, 
the  Editor,  and  to  Dr.  Dan  E.  Clark,  the  Associate 
Editor,  of  The  State  Historical  Society  of  Iowa,  for 
critically  editing  the  manuscript.  The  index  was 
compiled  by  Dr.  John  E.  Briggs. 

Louis  Pelzer 

State  University  op  Iowa 
Iowa  City  Iowa 


CONTENTS 

I.     Soldiers  on  the  Frontier,  1829-1830  1 

II.     On  the  Way  to  Jefferson  Barracks         13 

III.  In  Winter  Quarters  at  Camp  Jackson      23 

IV.  The  Expedition  to  the  Pawnee  Pict 

Village    ......         34 

V.     Colonel  Kearny  on  the  River  Des 

Moines 49 

VI.     Prairie  Travels  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains         64 

VII.     The    Western    Military    Frontier 

1837-1840 76 

VIII.     Patrol  and  Garrison  Duties  in  Iowa 

Territory 88 

IX.     On    the    Canadian    and    Arkansas 

Rivers 97 

X.     Captain    Allen's    Journey    to    the 

Northwest       .....       108 

XL     Captain  Sumner's  Visits  Among  the 

Sioux 115 

XII.     Colonel    Kearny    on    the    Oregon 

Trail  to  South  Pass      .         .         .       120 

XIII.     Flying  Camps  from  South  Pass  to 

Fort  Leavenworth         .        .        .       134 


CONTENTS 


XIV.     With  the  Army  of  the  West      .         .       142 
XV.     The  Campaign  to  Califoenia      .         .       151 
XVI.     Major   Woods's   Visit    to    the    Red 

ElVER    OF    THE   NOETH         .  .  .         161 

XVII.     Soldier  Life  at  Old  Fort  Leaven- 
worth     ......       169 

Appendix — Captain  Boone's  Journal 
OF  AN  Expedition  over  the  West- 
ern Prairies 181 

Notes  and  References        .         .         .       241. 

Index 267 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIERS 
1829-1830 

A  suEVEY  of  the  regular  army  of  the  United  States 
in  1830  reveals  a  force  of  about  six  thousand  men. 
The  seven  regiments  of  infantry  and  four  of  artillery 
encircled  the  inhabited  portions  of  the  United  States 
in  a  line  extending  over  six  thousand  miles.  This 
army,  composed  of  small  units  widely  distributed 
and  ever  changing  in  its  personnel,  performed  the 
military  functions  for  a  nation  comprising  1,752,000 
square  miles  of  territory  and  containing  a  popula- 
tion of  nearly  thirteen  millions.^ 

Fifty-six  companies,  aggregating  2555  men  and 
stationed  at  sixteen  establishments,  comprised  the 
western  department  of  the  army.  By  1830  seven 
posts  formed  the  line  of  defense  on  the  middle 
western  frontier  —  a  frontier  usually  advancing  be- 
fore the  westward  drift  of  settlement  and  following 
the  receding  Indian  population.  In  this  irregular 
zone  extending  from  Fort  Snelling  to  Cantonment 
Gibson  in  Arkansas  Territory  were  performed  the 
varied  and  irregular  functions  of  a  frontier  army.^ 

Each  year  an  expensive  system  of  recruiting  was 
necessary  to  keep  the  numbers  of  this  small  army 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 


intact.  In  1830  up  to  September  SOth  recruiting 
officers  under  the  direction  of  Lieutenant  Colonel 
J.  H.  Vose  enlisted  1538  men  at  an  expense  of  over 
$27,000.  Of  these  New  York  City  alone  furnished 
302,  and  ninety-six  came  from  Boston.  Such  enlisted 
troops  were  subjected  to  a  season  of  training  and 
instruction  and  then  found  their  ways  over  various 
routes  into  army  posts  to  be  absorbed  into  the 
general  service.'' 

Desertions  constituted  a  perpetual  menace  to  the 
army.  In  1830  such  desertions  numbered  1251,  of 
whom  188  had  escaped  from  their  rendezvous  or 
before  joining  their  companies.  The  Adjutant 
General's  figures  indicated  a  steady  increase  of  the 
evil  since  1826,  and  he  estimated  the  financial  loss  to 
the  government  from  this  evil  at  $102,087  for  the 
year  1830.  In  eight  years,  he  further  estimated,  the 
government  had  suffered  a  monetary  loss  of  over 
half  a  million  dollars.^ 

Much  academic  discussion  of  the  causes  and  the 
remedies  of  this  evil  burdens  the  reports  of  army 
officers  for  1830.*^  The  payment  of  bounties  in 
advance  encouraged  the  enlistment  of  such  vagrants 
who  "enlist  to-day  and  desert  to-morrow".  Others 
remained  upon  the  rolls  only  long  enough  to  receive 
four  or  five  months'  pay  and  the  most  costly  part  of 
a  year's  uniform  and  clothing. 

A  second  cause  of  desertion  was  the  inadequate 
system  of  punishments  in  the  army  which  tended  to 
degrade  offenders  rather  than  to  produce  penitence 
or  reformation.    General  Gaines  urged  that  certain 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIER 


forms  of  punishment  corroded  and  destroyed  the 
latent  elements  of  moral  feeling  in  a  soldier.  He 
severely  condemned  the  following  punishments  then 
prevalent  in  the  army:  branding,  marking  with 
durable  ink,  and  all  such  inflictions  which  tended  to 
mutilate  or  cripple  culprits;  attaching  a  ball  and 
chain  or  an  iron  collar  on  the  leg  or  neck  of  the 
offender  and  compelling  him  to  perform  hard  labor 
in  public ;  shaving  the  head,  putting  a  rope  of  straw 
around  the  neck  of  the  offender,  or  requiring  him  to 
stand  upon  a  barrel. 

General  Gaines  recommended  severe  but  guarded 
penalties  for  the  five  crimes  of  desertion,  cowardice, 
mutiny,  habitual  drunkenness,  and  stealing.  ''I  have 
seen,"  wrote  this  officer,  ''I  think,  hundreds  of  idle 
men  who  appeared  better  satisfied  with  a  ball  and 
chain  attached  to  one  of  their  legs,  with  the  privilege 
of  indulging  in  the  filthy  habits  of  drinking,  and 
eating,  and  sleeping  in  a  warm  guard-house,  without 
the  trouble  of  cleaning  themselves  and  their  arms 
for  honorable  service,  than  when  in  the  discharge  of 
the  regular  duty  of  men  under  arms.  But  I  have 
never  seen  one  of  those  vicious  idlers  whipped  with- 
out seeing  some  positive  indication  of  the  fact  that 
the  operation  intended  as  a  punishment  was  felt  as 
a  punishment,  and  by  bad  men  only  feared  as  a 
punishment.  This  means  of  punishing  the  most 
vicious  will  tend  rather  to  invite  good  men  into  the 
service  than  to  deter  them,  as  w^ithout  this  kind  of 
punishment  the  best  of  men  are  obliged  to  ivatch  and 
labor  whilst  the  worst  of  them  sleep  under  guard. ' ' 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 


Other  causes  ascribed  for  desertion  were  the  too 
frequent  changes  in  company  commanders,  the  ab- 
sence of  officers  from  their  units,  the  inadequate  pay 
of  the  soldier,  and  the  undue  length  of  the  term  of 
enlistment  for  the  common  soldier. 

But  the  greatest  foe  to  the  army  in  1830  and  a 
sure  cause  of  desertion  was  the  prevalence  of  intem- 
perance among  the  soldiery.  The  government  issued 
to  its  six  thousand  men  in  this  year  72,537  gallons  of 
whiskey  at  a  cost  of  $22,132  or  about  one  cent  per 
gill.'^  Besides  his  daily  ration  of  one  gill  of  whiskey 
the  soldier  could  sometimes  obtain  liquor  from  the 
army  sutler  or  from  the  swarms  of  hucksters  or 
whiskey-peddlers  who  hovered  about  almost  all  the 
army  posts. 

The  testimony  of  army  officers  upon  the  evils  of 
intemperance  in  the  army  was  practically  unanimous 
in  1830.  Nearly  every  company  had  its  habitual 
drunkards  and  these  tended  to  corrupt  the  habits  of 
their  comrades.  The  proceedings  of  courts-martial 
proved  that  intoxication  almost  always  preceded  and 
usually  caused  the  crime  of  desertion.  In  1829,  how- 
ever, the  Surgeon  General  had  asserted  that  ''a 
large  portion  of  the  sin  of  intemperance  which  is 
laid  at  the  door  of  the  army  belongs  in  truth  to  the 
community  from  which  it  is  taken.  "^  In  the  same 
year  a  lieutenant  expressed  the  belief  that  if  the 
whiskey  rations  were  abolished  from  the  army  the 
courts-martial  would  hear  only  one-third  as  many 
cases  of  desertion  and  that  the  number  of  lesser 
crimes   would   be    reduced   eighty   per    cent.      ''A 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIER 


soldier",  he  explained,  '' becomes  intoxicated,  and 
absents  himself  from  roll-call ;  is  confined,  and  after 
a  night's  lodging  in  the  guard-house,  tortured  with 
thirst  and  all  the  nameless  agonies  which  succeed  a 
debauch,  he  is  set  at  liberty,  and  perhaps  'detailed 
for  duty.'  He  resorts  to  the  bottle  to  free  himself 
from  what  he  justly  calls  the  horrors,  and  is  found 
'drunk  on  duty.'  He  is  again  confined,  tried,  and 
perhaps  sentenced  to  a  forfeiture  of  pay ;  when,  dis- 
heartened, vexed  with  himself  and  all  around  him,  he 
flies  again  to  the  bottle  for  relief,  and  anticipating 
further  punishment,  deserts. ^^^ 

Measured  by  later  standards  the  pay  of  the  com- 
mon soldier  in  1830  seems  low.  Five  dollars  was  the 
monthly  wage;  and  this  with  the  clothing,  rations, 
and  other  allowances  made  the  entire  monthly 
amount  about  fifteen  dollars.  ''The  American  sol- 
dier", wrote  the  Secretary  of  War,  "is  well  paid, 
fed,  and  clothed ;  and,  in  the  event  of  sickness  or  dis- 
ability, ample  provision  is  made  for  his  support.  "^^ 

But  no  provision  existed  for  the  moral  culture  of 
the  hundreds  of  troops  on  and  beyond  the  western 
military  frontiers.  There  were  no  chaplains  or 
religious  agencies  to  minister  to  the  moral  and 
religious  nature  of  the  soldiers.  The  number  of 
deaths  reported  from  the  military  hospitals  for  the 
year  ending  June  30,  1831,  was  one  hundred  and 
twenty-six.  Of  these  twenty-one  died  from  con- 
sumption, twenty-two  from  intemperance,  and 
eighty-three  from  other  causes. ^^  No  ministers  were 
present  to  give  reproof  and  admonition  during  the 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 


life  of  these  men,  nor  could  the  soldiers  in  death 
receive  the  consolations  of  religion. 

Perhaps  more  picturesque  but  less  serviceable 
were  the  soldiers '  uniforms  and  clothing  for  the  year 
1830  than  for  the  present  time.  A  chance  visitor  at 
Fort  Crawford,  Fort  Leavenworth,  or  Jefferson 
Barracks  might  have  seen  a  most  varied  assortment 
of  army  clothing.  But  a  quarter-master  of  to-day 
could  find  much  of  interest  in  the  prices  of  soldiers' 
dress  in  1830.  Privates'  drilling  overalls  cost  $.62; 
the  price  of  a  pair  of  shoes  was  $1.24;  the  army 
blanket  sold  for  $2.50;  and  the  knapsacks  cost  $1.53; 
flannel  drawers  were  priced  at  $.87;  and  a  pair  of 
laced  bootees,  $1.48.  Great  coats  for  service  in  the 
cold  winter  climates  were  purchased  for  $6.56.  More 
ornamental  articles,  such  as  the  pompon,  band  and 
tassel,  and  the  cockade  and  eagle  cost  respectively 
twenty,  twelve,  and  six  cents. ^^ 

During  the  year  ending  September  30,  1830,  the 
annual  supply  of  arms  and  accoutrements  was  dis- 
tributed among  the  soldiers  at  the  various  posts.  In 
the  list  are  reported  40,000  musket  cartridges,  6500 
flints,  742  gun-slings,  940  muskets,  882  cartridge- 
boxes,  107  swords,  and  over  900,000  pounds  of  lead. 
The  ordnance  department  also  reported  the  distri- 
bution of  such  articles  as  rocket  paper,  wipers, 
cannon  balls,  a  siege  mortar,  rosin,  bayonet  belts,  and 
nearly  15,000  pounds  of  powder.^^ 

Soldiers  at  the  western  posts  were  compelled  to 
endure  much  dreary  monotony.  Stationed  hundreds 
of  miles  from  home,  often  far  removed  from  settle- 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIER 


ments  and  society,  the  troops  frequently  felt  longings 
for  a  return  to  civil  life.  The  public  uninterested 
and  uninformed  in  the  distant  garrison  duties  had 
little  pride  in  the  regular  army  of  the  United  States. 
Newspapers  quick  to  describe  Indian  wars  or  mili- 
tary duels  saw  little  of  interest  in  the  work  of  the 
common  soldier. 

The  manual  labor  performed  by  the  soldiers  pro- 
vided some  relief  from  the  mechanics  of  months  of 
garrison  life.  On  the  western  frontier  the  soldiers 
aided  in  the  construction  of  hundreds  of  miles  of 
military  roads  running  from  one  post  to  another. 
In  nine  months  of  the  year  1830  the  government  paid 
out  nearly  $14,000  for  soldiers'  labor  on  surveys, 
opening  roads,  building  barracks,  and  erecting  quar- 
ters and  storehouses.^'*  The  new  building  at  Fort 
Crawford  was  completed  in  the  summer  of  1830  and 
in  the  same  year  a  soldier  workman  with  three  com- 
panions spent  ten  months  in  building  the  stone 
powder  magazine  for  this  post.^^ 

Disabled  and  discharged  soldiers  constituted  a 
problem  of  charity  in  some  western  communities. 
At  Jefferson  Barracks  such  veterans  found  their 
way  to  St.  Louis,  as  did  many  fur  traders,  lead 
miners,  and  adventurers  stranded  from  the  Missis- 
sippi River  steamboats.  Others  lingered  on  the 
streets  of  St.  Louis  disabled  by  wounds  or  disease  or 
driven  to  a  premature  old  age  by  intemperance  and 
debauchery.  The  city  government  in  1830  called  the 
attention  of  Congress  to  such  soldiers,  who  were 
without  regular  employment  or  industrious  habits. 


8  MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

A  memorial  asking  for  the  erection  of  a  hospital  in 
the  city  was  sent  to  Congress.  ''These  unfortu- 
nates", read  the  petition,  ''cannot  be  allowed  to 
perish  in  our  streets  with  sickness  and  want;  and 
they  ought  not  to  be  left  to  private  charity."^*' 

A  long  westward  march  executed  in  1829  and 
reported  to  the  United  States  Senate  in  1830  stands 
as  the  most  picturesque  and  perhaps  the  most 
important  service  rendered  by  the  army  during  these 
two  years. ^^  This  expedition  of  four  companies  of 
infantry  commanded  by  Major  Bennet  Riley  spent 
six  months  on  the  Santa  Fe  road.  The  purpose  of 
the  march  was  to  furnish  a  military  escort  for  a 
caravan  composed  of  about  seventy-nine  men  and 
thirty-eight  wagons  bound  for  the  Mexican  markets 
in  Santa  Fe. 

This  detachment  of  western  soldiers  accompanied 
by  their  wives  and  children  embarked  on  a  vessel  at 
Jefferson  Barracks  early  in  May,  1829.  ' '  The  deck ' ', 
wrote  a  lieutenant,  ''was  barricaded  with  beds  and 
bedding;  infants  squalled,  and  chickens  cackled". 
After  a  ten  days'  voyage  the  boat  discharged  its 
passengers  at  Cantonment  Leavenworth  —  an  un- 
healthful  site  recently  abandoned  by  a  company  of 
infantry.  Nearly  three  weeks  were  spent  here  in 
preparing  the  men  for  their  adventures  on  the 
western  plains. 

Major  Riley's  infantry  accompanied  by  twenty 
wagons  laden  with  flour  and  by  four  ox-carts  bearing 
camp  equipage  left  the  cantonment  early  in  June, 
crossing  hills,  ravines,  and  prairies  in  bloom.     The 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIER 


teamsters  labored  with  tlie  oxen ;  a  cart  broke  down. 
On  the  way  tlie  command  passed  the  house  of  the 
Delaware  Indian  sub-agent,  "who,  with  ready  joke 
and  julep,  did  his  best  to  make  our  long  farewell  to 
the  settlements,  a  lively  one."  In  a  week  Major 
Eiley  arrived  at  Council  Grove  and  there  greeted  the 
assembled  traders. 

For  about  three  weeks  the  soldiers  and  traders 
travelled  over  the  Santa  Fe  road  together  —  from 
Council  Grove  to  Chouteau's  Island  on  the  Upper 
Arkansas  Eiver.  The  sameness  of  prairie  landscape 
was  relieved  by  such  stations  on  the  road  as  Diamond 
Spring,  Cottonwood  Creek,  Turkey  Creek,  and  Cow 
Creek.  For  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  the 
route  lay  along  the  Arkansas  River.  From  the  high 
sandy  hills  the  troops  gazed  upon  great  moving 
herds  of  buffalo  which  furnished  sport  and  food  for 
the  command. 

Chouteau's  Island  was  the  westernmost  limit  of 
Major  Riley's  escort  duty.  From  here  the  traders, 
after  receiving  careful  instructions  from  the  major, 
resumed  their  march  toward  Santa  Fe,  which  was 
about  four  hundred  miles  distant.  A  few  hours  later 
a  horseman  dashed  into  the  major's  camp  bringing 
the  news  that  the  caravan  had  been  attacked  by  a 
band  of  Indians  and  that  a  trader  had  been  killed. 
Major  Riley  quickly  broke  camp  and  rejoined  the 
traders  with  all  speed.  The  Indians  had  escaped, 
but  Major  Riley  continued  to  escort  the  traders  many 
miles  into  Mexican  territory.  The  suffering  from 
heat  and  thirst  grew  intense,  and  on  July  13th  about 


10       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

thirteen  yoke  of  oxen  gave  out.  Three  days  later  the 
escort  returned  to  Chouteau's  Island. 

Nearly  three  months  —  from  July  16  to  October 
13,  1829  —  Major  Riley's  command  remained  near 
Chouteau's  Island  waiting  for  the  caravan  which  w^as 
to  return  from  Santa  Fe  to  the  States.  Indian 
alarms  and  attacks  were  frequent,  and  one  day 
Bugler  Mathew  King  was  killed  by  an  Indian  arrow. 
The  camp  was  nearly  always  under  arms.  "I  never 
failed  for  months",  described  an  officer,  ''to  sleep  in 
pantaloons  and  moccasins,  with  pistols,  and  a  loose 
woollen  coat  for  a  pillow;  my  sword  stuck  in  the 
ground  in  the  mouth  of  the  tent,  with  my  cap  upon 
the  hilt." 

Hunting  was  a  pleasure  and  a  necessity;  buffalo 
meat  with  a  half  ration  of  flour  and  salt  was  the 
daily  fare.  Terrified  deer  and  antelopes  sped  away 
over  the  hot  plains  and  the  soldiers  captured  the 
swift  hares  in  the  rushes  and  tall  grass.  ''I  had  a 
nearly  tame  one,"  wrote  Lieutenant  Cooke,  "which 
fed  on  rushes,  which  would  disappear  in  its  mouth  as 
if  pushed  through  a  hole."  Now  and  then  they 
would  pass  through  prairie  dog  villages  and  frighten 
badgers  and  foxes  or  a  drove  of  horses  which  dashed 
away  from  the  caravan.  ''Buffalo,  wolves,  rattle- 
snakes, and  grasshoppers,  seemed  to  fill  up  the 
country",  observed  Lieutenant  Cooke. 

During  the  warm  summer  days  the  troops  near 
Chouteau's  Island  fished,  hunted,  and  made  hun- 
dreds of  buffalo  powder-horns.  The  more  skilled 
troopers  carved  out  of  the  buffalo  horns  such  articles 


SOLDIERS  ON  THE  FRONTIER  11 

as  spoons,  combs,  cups,  buttons,  and  '' wine-glasses^ \ 
Then  the  transportation  vehicles  were  put  in  order ; 
but  five  wagons  and  three  carts  were  condemned. 
Shortly  thereafter  Major  Riley  ordered  the  wagons 
to  be  stocked  with  fifteen  days '  rations  of  pork,  salt, 
beans,  vinegar,  soap,  candles,  and  a  quantity  of  meat, 
flour,  and  bread. 

Not  until  October  12,  1829,  did  the  Mexican 
caravan  of  Creoles,  Spaniards,  Indians,  and  French- 
men arrive  at  Chouteau's  Island.  Major  Riley 
estimated  the  value  of  the  traders'  goods  and  their 
two  thousand  horses,  mules,  and  jacks  at  about 
$200,000.  Military  courtesies  were  exchanged  and  a 
feast  was  given  in  honor  of  the  Mexican  officials. 
"Seated  cross-legged  around  a  green  blanket  in  the 
bottom  of  the  tent;  we  partook  of  bread,  buffalo 
meat,  and,  as  an  extraordinary  rarity,  some  salt 
pork ;  but  to  crown  all,  were  several  large  raw  onions, 
for  which  we  were  indebted  to  the  arrival  of  our 
guests;  a  tin  cup  of  whiskey,  which,  like  the  pork, 
had  been  reserved  for  an  unusual  occasion,  was 
passed  around,  folloived  by  another  of  water. ' ' 

Twenty-five  days  of  marching  lay  before  Major 
Riley's  companies  when  they  began  their  homeward 
march  to  the  Missouri  River.  Adjutant  J.  F.  Izard 
superintended  the  work  of  grazing  the  herds  of  stock 
and  of  guarding  against  stampedes.  The  soldiers 
again  saw  immense  herds  of  buffalo.  Seventy  mules 
overcome  by  cold  and  fatigue  were  left  on  the 
l^rairies.  It  was  November  8th  when  Major  Riley's 
troops,  abounding  in  good  health  and  spirits,  re- 


12      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

turned  to  their  dingy  huts  and  sheds  at  Cantonment 
Leavenworth. 

Thus  year  after  year  the  soldier  in  the  West 
drilled,  marched,  executed  Federal  laws,  and  shifted 
from  post  to  post.  When  his  term  of  enlistment 
expired  or  when  he  became  disabled  younger  and 
rawer  recruits  replaced  him.  The  common  soldier 
witnessed  the  West  letting  in  the  population,  the 
establishment  of  other  military  posts,  and  the  retreat 
or  removal  of  the  Indian  tribes.  Some  of  the  soldiers 
bore  a  part  in  quieting  the  Winnebago  alarm  of  1827 
and  others  participated  in  the  Black  Hawk  War  of 
1832.^^  The  United  States  Rangers,  organized  in  the 
same  year,  ranged  the  western  frontier.  The  vet- 
erans of  this  regiment  brought  training  and  valuable 
experience  to  its  successor  —  the  First  Regiment  of 
United  States  Dragoons. 


II 

ON  THE  WAY  TO  JEFFERSON  BARRACKS 

While  praising  highly  the  services  of  the  rangers, 
Secretary  Cass  urged  that  they  now  be  converted 
into  a  regiment  of  dragoons.  This  would  be  less 
expensive  by  $153,932;  frequent  reenlistments  and 
reorganization  of  the  rangers  meant  loss  of  time, 
experience,  and  efficiency;  the  dragoons  would  be 
equal  in  celerity  of  movements ;  the  elements  of  cav- 
alry tactics  would  be  preserved  and  strengthened; 
and  finally,  horsemen  would  be  indispensable  at  the 
many  scattered  frontier  garrisons  in  overtaking  and 
chastising  the  marauding  Indian  bands  of  the  far 
western  plains. ^^ 

A  bill  ''for  the  more  perfect  defense  of  the 
frontier"  was  signed  by  President  Jackson  on  March 
2,  1833.2^  The  regiment  to  consist  of  ten  companies 
of  seventy-one  men  each  was  to  be  commanded  by  a 
colonel.  All  were  to  be  subject  to  service  either  on 
horse  or  foot  and  in  every  respect  were  to  be  gov- 
erned by  all  the  rules  and  articles  of  war  which 
regulated  the  peace  establishment. 

Eighteen  dragoon  officers  were  commissioned  two 
days  later.^^  Henry  Dodge,  already  distinguished  in 
Indian  wars,  was  to  be  the  colonel  of  the  regiment. 


13 


14      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

while  Stephen  Watts  Kearny,  a  veteran  of  the  battle 
of  Qiieenstown  Heights,  was  made  lieutenant  colonel. 
Captain  Edwin  Vose  Sumner  and  Lieutenant  Philip 
St.  George  Cooke  later  became  veterans  of  two  wars. 
And  Lieutenant  Jefferson  Davis,  who  had  graduated 
from  West  Point  five  years  before,  was,  thirty  years 
later,  to  become  President  of  the  Confederate  States. 

Enlistments  for  the  regiment  were  made  during 
the  summer  months  of  1833.  To  avoid  sectional 
feelings  recruits  were  secured  in  nearly  every  State 
of  the  Union.  Hundreds  of  young  men  weary  of 
cities  and  society  joined  the  troops  which  were  to 
"scour  the  prairies  of  the  region  beyond  the  waters 
of  the  Mississippi."  Company  E  under  Captain 
David  Perkins  was  recruited  from  the  young  men  of 
New  York  City.^^ 

Early  in  August,  1833,  Lieutenant  John  H.  K. 
Burgwin's  troop,  enlisted  at  Sackett's  Harbor,  New 
York,  commenced  its  long  journey  to  Jefferson  Bar- 
racks, the  headquarters  for  the  regiment.  In  a 
stormy  lake  voyage  they  were  tossed  from  Buffalo  to 
Erie.  In  Ohio  the  smoky,  dismal  towns  of  Warren, 
Wellsville,  and  Steubenville  marked  their  progress. 
From  Wheeling  the  course  over  the  Cumberland 
Eoad  led  them  past  Zanesville,  Columbus,  and 
Springfield.  From  Cincinnati  a  steamer  bore  them 
to  Louisville  where  Lieutenant  Colonel  Kearny  ap- 
peared and  related  that  Captain  Sumner's  dragoons, 
likewise  from  New  York,  had  embarked  on  the 
steamer  '^ Helen  Mar"  only  about  a  week  before.  A 
lazy  voyage  along  the  Indiana  shore  finally  brought 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  JEFFERSON  BARRACKS  15 

them  to  the  Illinois  banks  to  find  the  "Helen  Mar" 
grounded  on  a  sand  bar.  Lieutenant  Burgwin  now 
transferred  himself  to  the  belated  vessel,  and  after 
two  days  she  was  again  afloat.  Rounding  the  point 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the  ''Helen  Mar"  steamed 
against  the  powerful  current  of  the  Mississippi 
and  in  two  days  landed  its  dragoons  at  Jefferson 
Barracks. ^^ 

Lieutenant  Cooke's  recruiting  services  took  him 
early  in  the  summer  of  1833  to  western  Tennessee. 
There  the  villages  of  Columbia,  Dover,  Clarksville, 
and  the  squalid  hamlet  of  Reynoldsburgh  were 
visited.  The  town  of  Perryville  furnished  ''some 
hardy  recruits,  whose  imagination  inflamed  them 
with  the  thoughts  of  scouring  the  far  prairies  on  fine 
horses,  amid  buffalo  and  strange  Indians".  At 
Jackson  he  observed  the  election  of  Davy  Crockett 
to  Congress.  Leaving  Nashville,  Cooke's  company 
of  dragoons  floated  down  the  Cumberland  River  in 
a  lazy  keel-boat.  At  Paducah  the  force  was  trans- 
ferred to  a  steamboat,  and  soon  the  young  Ten- 
nesseeans  were  mingling  with  the  troops  at  the 
barracks.-^ 

In  the  fall  of  1833  a  corps  of  about  thirty  dra- 
goons who  had  been  enrolled  in  the  eastern  States 
was  travelling  to  Detroit  over  Lake  Huron  and 
across  Green  Bay.^^  Moving  up  the  Fox  River  and 
across  the  portage,  the  troops  descended  the  Wis- 
consin River  where,  perhaps,  a  few  recalled  that 
Father  Marquette  and  Louis  Joliet  had  followed  the 
same  trail  more  than  a  century  and  a  half  before. 


16      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

But  instead  of  rejoicing  over  the  life  and  verdure  of 
June  the  dragoons  were  noting  the  somber  and  sullen 
approach  of  winter. 

Fort  Crawford  was  visited ;  but  a  river  voyage  of 
about  six  hundred  miles  still  lay  ahead  of  the 
dragoons,  and  the  increasing  cold  roused  fears  that 
ice  would  soon  close  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  On  November  17,  1833,  the  two  barges  bear- 
ing the  soldiers  began  their  journey  toward  St. 
Louis.  With  keen  regrets,  it  may  be  imagined,  the 
young  lieutenant  and  his  men  took  leave  of  the 
hospitable  mess  of  Colonel  Taylor  and  the  warm- 
hearted comradeship  at  Fort  Crawford.-*' 

Six  oars,  sometimes  aided  by  powerful  square 
sails  and  always  by  the  steady  current,  urged  each 
barge  forward.  Soon  the  bustling  scenes  of  the 
Gralena  lead  mines  were  reached  and  left  behind  by 
the  boats.  They  glided  past  innumerable  islands, 
marshes,  thick  forests,  and  sandbars  whitened  by 
flocks  of  swans.  But  the  silence  and  the  solitude  of 
those  days  have  long  since  disappeared  in  the  sights 
and  sounds  of  the  cities,  towns,  and  hamlets  of  four 
States. 

At  night  landings  were  made  on  the  bank  or  on  an 
island.  A  number  of  men  then  felled  trees ;  others 
built  the  fires;  the  seven  tents  were  raised;  and  in 
about  an  hour's  time  the  cook  announced  supper. 
The  blazing  logs,  the  lounging  troopers,  the  cheerful 
mess,  and  the  huge  sycamores  silhouetted  against 
the  sky  made  a  picturesque  scene.  ''The  men  were 
a  merry  set, "  wrote  a  passenger  on  one  of  the  barges, 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  JEFFERSON  BARRACKS  17 

''looking  forward  to  the  future  possession  of  their 
horses,  arms,  and  regimentals  with  considerable  self- 
complacency;  and  many  a  song  then  echoed  through 
the  hoar  forests  for  the  first  time ;  some  of  the  most 
approved,  such  as  'The  hunters  of  Kentucky'  or  '0 
'tis  my  delight  in  a  stormy  night  in  the  season  of  the 
year,'  became  from  their  frequent  repetition  almost 
a  nuisance." 

A  day  was  spent  at  Fort  Armstrong^'^  where 
some  of  the  men  enjoyed  the  warm  hospitality  of  its 
commander  and  his  wife.  A  swift  passage  over  the 
Des  Moines  Rapids  hurried  on  the  barges.  Four 
days  after  leaving  Fort  Armstrong  a  calm  night  and 
a  full  moon  permitted  a  nocturnal  cruise  of  fifty 
miles.  This  brought  them  within  about  twenty  miles 
of  St.  Louis.  It  was  just  nine  days  since  leaving 
Fort  Crawford  that  the  young  lieutenant  and  his 
men  presented  themselves  at  the  post  of  Jefferson 
Barracks. 

To  the  travel-worn  recruits  the  sight  of  the  bar- 
racks was  no  doubt  a  welcome  relief  after  their  long 
journey.  Romantically  situated  ten  miles  below  St. 
Louis,  on  a  bold  bluff  overlooking  the  Mississippi, 
the  stone  buildings  formed  a  hollow  quadrangle,  one 
side  of  which  opened  upon  the  terrace  bordering  the 
river.  From  here  the  young  dragoons  observed  the 
steady  current  of  the  Mississippi  and,  beyond,  the 
pale  cliffs  and  extensive  woodlands  of  the  Illinois 
shore.  It  is  not  unlikely  that  General  Henry  Atkin- 
son had  discovered  here  artistic  as  well  as  strategic 
features  when  he  erected  the  post  in  1826.-*^ 


18       MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

Outside  the  parallelogram  the  dragoons  noted  the 
commissary's  house,  the  magazines,  and  the  exten- 
sive but  unfinished  stables.  In  the  rear  of  the 
garrison  rose  a  grove  of  forest  oaks  whose  broad- 
spreading  branches  shaded  a  neat  burial  ground. 
''The  number  of  its  white  wooden  slabs",  described 
Flagg  in  1836,  ''gave  melancholy  evidence  of  the 
ravages  of  the  cholera  among  that  corps  of  fine 
fellows  which,  four  years  before,  garrisoned  the 
Barracks."  On  the  southern  outskirts  of  the  bar- 
racks lay  another  burial  ground  which  contained  the 
tombs  of  officers  whose  last  services  had  been  per- 
formed at  this  post.-'^ 

Such  was  the  station  which  had  been  chosen  to 
contain  the  reserve  forces  for  the  southern,  western, 
and  northern  frontiers.  "From  its  central  position 
and  its  proximity  to  the  mouths  of  the  great  rivers 
leading  into  the  interior,  detachments,  by  means  of 
steam  transports,  may  be  thrown  with  great  rapidity 
and  nearly  equal  facility  into  the  garrisons  upon  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Arkansas,  Red, 
or  Sabine  Rivers. ' '  Brigadier  General  Henry  Atkin- 
son had  been  the  commander  here  in  1832  when  the 
Sixth  Infantry  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty-three 
men  was  enabled  to  reinforce  the  army  in  the  Black 
Hawk  War.3« 

Disappointment,  however,  was  the  lot  of  the  dra- 
goons whose  long  journey  had  left  their  clothing 
ragged  and  threadbare.  Having  been  assured  by 
recruiting  officers  that  their  military  clothing  would 
be  in  readiness  at  the  barracks,  the  young  soldiers 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  JEFFERSON  BARRACKS     19 

]iad  left  all  surplus  garments  behind.  Month  after 
month  passed  but  no  forage  caps  were  issued  and  no 
jackets  or  overalls  had  replaced  the  tattered  gar- 
ments of  the  sergeants,  privates,  or  musicians. 
October  and  November  came  but  no  woollen  overalls 
or  great  coats  for  any  winter  campaigns. ^^ 

The  unfinished  stables  were  another  source  of 
annoyance :  day  after  day  during  the  summer  months 
troops  were  equipped  with  saws,  hammers,  pickaxes, 
shovels,  and  other  implements  and  then  set  to  work 
at  building  the  stables.  Captains  sent  their  men 
across  the  Mississippi  to  cut  down  timber  and  to  tow 
it  to  the  other  side  —  and  all  without  any  compensa- 
tion. Murmurings  and  whisperings  of  fraud  and 
corruption  passed  current  among  the  soldiery. 
''This  regiment",  complained  one  dragoon,  "was 
not  enlisted  to  build  stables,  and  some  of  our  men 
have  signified  their  disrelish  of  the  work  by  not 
remaining  to  see  it  finished.'' ''^^ 

Dragoon  cartridge-boxes,  holsters,  sabre  belts, 
and  arms  likewise  had  not  yet  appeared  at  the  post. 
Old  muskets  were  disinterred  from  the  arsenal  where 
they  had  reposed  since  the  last  war  with  Great 
Britain.  These  condemned  pieces  could  be  shoul- 
dered for  the  various  movements  on  the  drill 
grounds,  but  in  skirmishing  could  neither  be  aimed 
nor  fired.  "Permit  Me",  wrote  Colonel  Dodge  late 
in  August,  1833,^^  ' '  to  Call  the  attention  of  the  Genl 
in  Chief  to  the  absolute  Necessity  of  ordering  the 
Cloathing  and  Arms  intended  for  the  use  of  the  U  S 
Dragoons [.]    there  are  four  Companies  at  this  port 


20      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

[post]  and  Capt  Sumner  is  daily  expected  with  an 
additional  Company [.]  the  recruits  are  all  here 
Much  in  Want  of  Cloathing  and  it  is  important  "VVe 
should  have  our  Arms[.]  it  is  important  that  the 
Dragoons  should  be  drilled  at  Target  Shooting  as 
well  as  to  fire  with  precission  on  Horseback [.]  the 
season  is  fast  advancing [.]  " 

It  is  little  wonder  that  desertions  were  of  almost 
nightly  occurrence.  Barrack  rooms  were  without 
bunks ;  and  even  some  of  the  kitchen  implements  had 
been  purchased  with  the  soldiers'  money.  Months 
of  monotonous  maneuvers  had  been  endured; 
sentinels  had  wearied  of  lonely  midnight  guard 
duty;  officers  were  sometimes  arrogant;  and  not  un- 
likely homesickness  had  raised  longings  for  the 
sights  and  sounds  of  New  York  City  or  for  the  quiet 
and  companionship  of  New  England  homes. 

Privates,  sergeants,  and  corporals  wearying  of 
such  routine  and  hardships  had  deserted.  ' '  Oppres- 
sion every  day  growing  more  and  insupportable," 
declared  one  soldier,  ' '  the  dragoons  began  openly  to 
murmur,  and  the  guard-house  was  kept  continually 
filled  to  overflowing.  Courts-martial  were  in  con- 
tinual session;  and  for  the  most  trifling  neglect  of 
duty,  men  were  tried  and  sentenced  either  to  walk 
the  tow-path  all  day  with  a  bag  of  shot  on  their 
shoulders,  or  to  confinement  in  the  guard-room." 
In  one  case  a  whole  battalion  was  drawn  up  to  wit- 
ness the  punishment  of  a  deserter.  Fifty  successive 
lashes  with  a  cat-o '-nine-tails  were  laid  upon  the 
victim's  bare  back.     Salt  and  water  were  roughly 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  JEFFERSON  BARRACKS  21 

applied  to  the  bloody  wounds  and  the  victim  was 
then  consigned  to  the  dreary  walls  of  the  guard- 
house.^'* 

One  company  after  another  of  fine-appearing  men 
had  reached  the  fort  during  the  summer  and  fall  of 
1833.  An  observer  of  that  year  wrote :^^  ''The  re- 
cruits for  the  service  of  the  newly-raised  regiment 
of  dragoons  organizing  for  the  future  service  of  the 
frontier,  ....  were  distinguished  from  the 
rag-tag-and-bob-tail  herd  drafted  into  the  ranks  of 
the  regular  army,  by  being  for  the  most  part  picked, 
athletic  young  men  of  decent  character  and  breeding. 
They  were  all  Americans,  whereas  the  ordinary 
recruits  consist  either  of  the  scum  of  the  population 
of  the  older  States,  or  of  the  worthless  German, 
English,  or  Irish  emigrants. ' ' 

In  the  first  drill,  however,  the  raw  and  undisci- 
plined troops  resembled  not  a  little  the  army  of  Jack 
Falstaff.  The  rawest  dragoons  furnished  a  ludicrous 
sight  to  the  older  men  who  had  already  learned  the 
commands  of  "attention",  "halt",  "column  for- 
ward", and  "guard  right".  Sergeant  Roberts  was 
the  only  man  who  knew  how  to  put  his  left  foot  fore- 
most. In  spite  of  long  extra  duty  in  the  awkward 
squad  Private  Cooke  never  learned  how  to  put  his 
left  foot  foremost  and,  suddenly  taking  "leg-bail", 
he  deserted  his  regiment. 

"Col.  Dodge",  described  one  trooper,  "is  in  com- 
mand of  the  regiment,  a  man  about  say  fifty,  thick 
set,  somewhat  gray,  a  thorough  backwoodsman,  very 
fond  of  talking  over  his  own  exploits;  he  was,  I 


22      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

believe,  a  militia  general,  and  obtained  the  colonelcy 
of  this  regiment  on  account  of  his  late  exertions 
during  the  Black  Hawk  war  on  the  whole  a  clever 
man,  but  not  much  of  soldier."^" 

Early  in  October  the  dragoon  horses  arrived  —  a 
collection  of  blacks,  creams,  greys,  sorrels,  and  bays. 
Weeks  and  weeks  of  almost  continual  drills  rendered 
them  quite  familiar  with  military  movements.  On 
November  9,  1833,  the  first  battalion  parade  under 
the  command  of  Major  Eichard  B.  Mason  was  held 
on  a  beautiful  spot  about  a  hundred  yards  to  the  rear 
of  the  barracks.  The  next  day  the  inspector  general 
appeared,  and,  followed  by  his  staff,  marched 
through  the  ranks  and  pronounced  men,  horses,  and 
equipment  in  excellent  order.^^ 


Ill 

IN  WINTER  QUARTERS  AT  CAMP  JACKSON 

Foe  some  weeks  camp  stories  and  rumors  of  pros- 
pective marches  had  been  afloat  among  the  soldiery. 
Late  in  November  of  1833  the  order  to  march  five 
companies  to  Fort  Gibson  gave  cheer  and  buoyancy 
to  the  drill-worn  recruits.  On  the  20th  of  that  month 
the  companies  formed  on  the  parade  ground,  the 
baggage-wagons  were  loaded,  the  bugle  sounded,  and 
Colonel  Dodge  gave  the  order  to  march.  ''The 
prisoners,"  wrote  a  trooper,  "consisting  of  eighteen 
men  under  sentence  for  desertion,  and  other  capital 
offences,  were  made  to  walk  hand-cuffed  and  chained, 
some  with  a  cannon  ball  to  the  leg,  flanked  on  either 
side  by  the  rearguard.  And  thus  commenced  the 
Regiment  of  Dragoons  their  first  march.  "^^ 

Only  three  or  four  miles  were  made  on  the  first 
day's  march,  which  ended  at  Camp  Burbees.  Here 
the  underbrush  was  cleared  away.  The  white  can- 
vas tents  of  each  company  were  formed  in  two  rows 
and  the  horses  were  picketed  in  the  intervening 
space.  The  animals  were  then  fed  and  curried.  A 
large  heap  of  logs  soon  yielded  a  fire  which  crackled 
and  cast  a  glare  over  the  encampment.  Then  came 
the  evening  meal,   tattoo,  and   the  posting  of  the 

23 


24      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

sentinels.  The  blazing  embers  of  the  open  fire  died 
down  as  the  fatigue  and  excitement  of  the  day  gave 
way  to  sleep. 

Early  reveille  summoned  the  troops  to  the  second 
day's  march  of  twenty  miles.  On  the  third  day  the 
little  army  advanced  twenty-three  miles  through 
picturesque  scenes :  ''mountains  and  valleys  so  richly 
throw^n  together ;  forests  and  prairies  so  beautifully 
interspersed ;  the  elm  and  sycamore  towered  high  in 
the  air;  the  ledges  of  broken  rocks  emitted  forth 
their  tiny  torrents,  which  gently  meandered  on  their 
course  through  the  tangled  foliage.  "^^ 

Sunday,  the  25th  of  November,  1833,  was  spent  in 
marching  seventeen  miles.  The  falling  snow  and  the 
increasing  cold  now  induced  the  command  to  halt  in 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  Now  and  then  a  fat 
buck  would  be  captured  for  the  evening  mess;  but 
the  scarcity  of  fodder  made  it  necessary  to  reduce 
the  daily  ration  for  the  horses  to  ten  ears  of  corn. 
On  the  8th  of  December  the  soldiers  came  upon  the 
silent  ruins  of  an  old  town  of  the  Delawares.  Small 
log-built  huts  were  decayed  and  moss-grown;  but 
giant  oak  trees  still  preserved  the  vividly  carved 
history  of  the  tribe 's  bloody  wars  —  a  record  which 
made  the  quiet  and  desolation  of  the  once  powerful 
village  all  the  more  impressive. 

A  few  days  later  a  luckless  trooper  lost  his  car- 
bine, for  which  he  was  compelled  to  lead  his  horse 
twenty-three  miles  over  a  rough  course  as  punish- 
ment. The  boundary  line  between  Arkansas  Terri- 
tory and  Missouri  was  crossed,  and  the  little  town  of 


WINTER  AT  CAMP  JACKSON        25 

Fayetteville  next  noted  the  passage  of  the  regiment. 
Soon  heavy  forests  of  oak,  elm,  and  pecan  were  left 
behind,  and  the  marches  then  averaged  twenty-five 
miles  per  day.  On  December  15th  Illinois  Creek  was 
forded  and  that  night  the  dragoons  camped  npon  its 
banks. 

Fort  Gibson  having  been  passed  on  the  afternoon 
of  December  17,  1833,  a  temporary  encampment 
named  Camp  Sandy  was  made  nearby  upon  a  sand- 
bar which  projected  half-way  across  the  Grand 
River.  Here  the  fatigned  and  half-starved  men 
pitched  their  tents ;  a  few  of  them  set  out  to  visit  the 
soldiers  of  the  Seventh  Infantry  then  stationed  at 
Fort  Gibson  and  commanded  by  Colonel  Matthew 
Arbuckle.^*'  At  the  fort  a  warm-hearted,  cordial 
reception  was  given  the  dragoons,  and  question  after 
question  by  the  infantrymen  long  isolated  from  the 
rest  of  the  world  elicited  news  concerning  the  scenes 
and  associations  of  earlier  and  happier  days. 

The  dragoon  horses  had  arrived  in  good  condi- 
tion but  were  soon  suffering  from  want  of  provender. 
Colonel  Dodge  immediately  upon  his  arrival  at  Fort 
Gibson  called  upon  Colonel  Arbuckle  and  was  in- 
formed that  eight  thousand  bushels  of  corn  for  the 
horses  had  been  contracted  for.  But  the  bitterly 
cold  weather  of  early  January  caused  six  inches  of 
ice  to  freeze  on  the  Grand  River.  Navigation  was 
stopped  and  it  became  impossible  to  deliver  the  corn 
at  the  fort.  The  leaves  and  tender  stems  of  cane 
were  then  used  for  feed,  and  twice  a  day  the  soldiers 
might  have  been  seen  emerging  from  the  brake  with 


26       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

huge  bundles.  Next  the  animals  were  turned  loose 
in  the  brake,  but  a  stampede  resulted  and  the  horses 
scattered  to  various  sections  of  the  country.  An 
officer  and  a  party  of  men  were  therefore  sent  after 
the  strayed  animals,  and  after  considerable  difficulty 
brought  them  back  to  camp.^^  Early  in  February, 
1834,  Captain  Sumner  was  ordered  to  proceed  to 
Washington  County  in  Arkansas  Territory  to  at- 
tempt to  secure  forage  and  a  quantity  of  corn  not  to 
exceed  five  thousand  bushels. 

''The  Month  of  Jany",  wrote  Dodge  in  February, 
"has  been  unusually  inclement [.]  the  freezing 
weather  Killing  the  Cane  was  unknown  in  this 
Country  heretofore [.]  the  Severity  of  the  weather 
injured  the  on  the  [sic]  Dragoon  Horses  [.]  the 
favorable  change  in  the  winter  and  a  Supply  of  Corn 
having  arrived  the  public  Horses  are  Now  recruiting 
fast  and  will  be  in  good  order  in  one  Month  from  this 
time[.]"^-  A  steamboat  bearing  a  quantity  of 
clothing  for  the  dragoons  became  stranded  about 
twenty  miles  below  the  fort  because  of  the  low  water 
of  the  Arkansas  River. 

''The  Arms  I  drew  from  the  Arsenal",  urged 
Colonel  Dodge,  "is  of  the  Most  indifferent  Kind  and 
I  have  No  Supply  of  Ammunition  to  enable  Me  to 
practice  the  Men  to  target  firing [.]  it  is  a  matter  of 
the  first  importance  to  Make  Men  Servicable  that 
they  should  be  good  Marksmen [.]  on  relieving  the 
Guards  I  have  directed  the  Men  to  fire  at  a  target 
fifty  paces  and  I  have  discovered  the  greater  part  of 
them  Know  Nothing  about  the  use  of  Arms[.]  "^^ 


WINTER  AT  CAMP  JACKSON        27 

Camp  Jackson,"*^  laid  out  in  a  little  bit  of  woods 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  from  Fort  Gibson,  became 
tlie  permanent  winter  quarters  for  the  regiment. 
Large  barracks  of  oak  sliingles  quartered  the  troops 
but  afforded  poor  protection  from  the  cold.  The 
roofs  were  leaky,  but  buffalo  robes  kept  the  water 
from  the  saddles,  knapsacks,  and  clothing,  and  pre- 
served a  dry  sleeping  place  for  the  night.  At  times 
rain  came  down  the  wide  chimneys,  perhaps  be- 
sprinkling the  rusty  pork  and  the  flour,  or  dripping 
into  the  camp-kettles  and  diluting  the  bean-soup. 

The  long  winter  evenings  were  spent  in  various 

amusements.    Sergeant  S ,  six  feet  six  inches  in 

height,  was  generally  master  of  ceremonies  at  the 
dances  in  which  dragoons,  infantrymen,  Osages, 
Creeks,  and  Seminoles  sometimes  joined.  Music,  no 
more  tuneful  perhaps  than  the  dances  were  graceful, 
came  from  two  or  three  cracked  fiddles  played  by  the 
Tennessee  boys.  Guttural  sounds  from  the  Indians, 
the  strains  from  a  banjo  or  clarinet,  and  loud  blasts 
by  the  bugler  sometimes  added  to  the  hilarity  and 
merriment  of  these  festive  evenings. 

In  some  snug  corner  somewhat  removed  from 
these  sounds  and  seated  around  a  tallow  candle 
might  have  been  seen  a  card  party.  And  perhaps 
another  dragoon  could  be  seen  reading  Robinson 
Crusoe  or  the  life  of  General  Marion  —  books  which 
constituted  a  considerable  portion  of  the  regimental 
library.  But  tattoo  sounded  and  ended  all  too  soon 
such  amusements  enjoyed  at  Camp  Jackson  more 
than  eighty  years  ago. 


28      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

At  the  same  time  there  is  revealed  the  unpleasant 
side  of  the  soldier's  life.  Desertions,  arrests,  and 
courts-martial  were  only  too  frequent  in  an  army 
that  was  then  chafing  under  much  popular  criticism. 
Jealousy  and  intrigue  add  other  shadows  to  the 
picture.  ' 'I  find  more  treachery  and  deception  prac- 
ticed in  the  army".  Colonel  Dodge  wrote  in  confi- 
dence to  a  friend,  ' '  than  I  ever  expected  to  find  with 
a  Body  of  Men  who  Call  themselves  Gentlemen [.] 
My  Situation  is  unpleasant  [Jefferson]  Davis  who  I 
appointed  my  adjt  was  among  the  first  to  take  a 
stand  against  me  Major  Mason  and  Davis  are  now 
two  of  my  most  inveterate  enemies [.]  the  desire  of 
these  Gentlemen  appears  to  be  to  Harass  me  in  Small 
Matters  [.]  they  dont  want  to  fight  if  Mason  would 
say  fight  I  would  go  to  the  field  with  him  with  Great 
pleasure  and  indeed  unless  Harmony  and  good  feel- 
ing exists  in  a  Corps  the  public  Service  cannot  be 
promoted  and  to  undertake  an  Expedition  with  such 
men  I  should  run  the  risk  of  Losing  what  Little  repu- 
tation I  have  acquired"."*^ 

Reveille  at  sunrise,  the  doctor's  call  at  half  past 
seven,  breakfast  at  eight,  guard-mounting  at  nine, 
horse  and  foot  tactics,  target  shooting,  and  tattoo  at 
nine  in  the  evening  constituted  the  daily  routine  in 
the  winter  of  1834.-*«  On  March  17th  William  Brad- 
ford, a  second  lieutenant,  accidentally  killed  himself 
with  his  pistol.  Two  days  later  the  entire  regiment 
was  mustered  and  the  body,  wrapped  in  the  national 
flag,  was  borne  to  the  cemetery  at  Fort  Gibson.  "He 
was  a  Young  officer  of  great  promise",  reported  his 


"WINTER  AT  CAMP  JACKSON  29 

colonel  later.  ' '  His  premature  death  is  lamented  by 
all  who  are  acquainted  with  him".  With  arms  re- 
versed the  dragoons  listened  to  a  prayer  by  an  aged 
minister;  the  body  was  then  lowered,  and  three 
volleys  of  musketry  were  fired  over  the  silent 
grave.^^ 

In  the  winter  of  1834  the  troops  were  awaiting 
orders  to  proceed  through  the  extensive  Indian 
country  between  the  western  boundaries  of  Missouri 
and  Arkansas  Territory  and  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
On  February  15th  Colonel  Dodge  presented  his 
views  on  the  prospective  march  to  Adjutant  General 
R.  Jones.^^  The  dragoons  should  be  unincumbered 
by  the  infantry;  all  necessary  supplies  should  be 
transported  by  mules ;  and  guides,  interpreters,  and 
hunters  should  accompany  the  troops.  "Twenty 
Osages  should  be  procured  to  accompany  the  expedi- 
tion as  Buffalo  Hunters  to  enable  Me  to  Subsist  My 
Command  untill  the  Dragoons  Learn  to  shoot  Buf- 
falos[.]  their  are  few  Men  in  the  Command  that 
ever  saw  a  Buffalo o  and  would  be  entirely  unable  to 
Subsist  themselves  By  Hunting [.]  the  greatest 
difficulty  attending  a  March  through  the  indian 
country  will  be  in  Subsisting  My  Command  on  the 
Buffaloes". 

Brigadier  General  Henry  Leavenworth,  who  had 
assumed  command  of  the  left  wing  of  the  western 
department  of  the  army,  arrived  at  Camp  Jackson 
in  the  spring  of  1834.  The  plain-looking  old  soldier 
was  a  welcome  arrival  at  the  lonely  barracks:  his 
affable  yet  dignified  manner  made  him  a  popular 


30      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

soldier  among  his  brother  officers.  His  order  of 
April  23rd  gave  directions  for  a  review  and  inspec- 
tion of  the  regiment  of  dragoons  and  of  the  seventh 
infantry  to  be  held  on  the  drill  ground  at  Fort  Gibson 
on  April  SOth.^^ 

For  years  the  overland  traders  from  Franklin, 
Missouri,  to  Santa  Fe  had  been  making  demands  for 
military  protection  for  their  caravans.  Colonel 
Dodge  was  directed  to  send  an  intelligent  and 
efficient  officer  to  Missouri  to  learn  what  kind  of 
escort  might  be  needed,  and  Lieutenant  Burgwin 
was  dispatched  upon  this  duty.  Early  in  May  it 
appears  that  Captain  Wharton  with  a  company  of 
about  sixty  dragoons  was  ordered  by  Dodge  to  meet 
the  traders  and  to  accompany  them  to  the  Mexican 
city  of  Santa  Fe.^« 

The  ''utmost  harmony",  continued  the  order,  was 
to  be  maintained  between  the  traders  and  the  troops. 
The  command  was  warned  to  guard  against  sur- 
prises, and  "should  Capt  Wharton  Meet  the  Hostile 
Indians  in  Battle  He  will  Charge  them  if  possible  to 
do  so  as  the  Best  possible  plan  of  defeating  them". 

Meanwhile  five  additional  companies  —  F,  G,  H, 
I,  and  K  —  had  been  assembled  at  Jefferson  Bar- 
racks, and  during  the  months  of  May  and  June,  1834, 
were  marching  to  Fort  Gibson.  The  route  traversed 
was  approximately  that  pursued  by  the  other  com- 
panies in  the  previous  November  and  December.  A 
dragoon  has  left  in  a  journaP^  a  brief  but  interesting 
record  of  this  movement  of  four  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  miles. 


WINTER  AT  CAMP  JACKSON  31 

In  an  uneventful  march  during  the  first  eight 
clays  the  company  advanced  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
six  miles.  On  May  19th,  the  troops  encamped  on  a 
small  stream  where  they  found  good  water  and  grass 
for  the  jaded  horses  and  mules.  Here  one  of  the 
men  was  placed  in  confinement  for  disobedience  to 
orders.  Two  days  later  the  companies  entered  a 
broken  country  and  an  encampment  was  made  on  the 
Osage  fork  of  the  Gasconade  River  where  they  found 
fish  and  wild  game  in  abundance. ^^ 

On  May  24th  they  advanced  for  twenty-one  miles 
over  a  fine,  well  watered  country.  "We  passed", 
describes  the  journal  of  Company  I,  ''a  Village 
called  Springfield  with  15  or  20  log  Cabbins  &  to  all 
appearance  the  inhabitants  are  idle  &  lazy  depending 
upon  their  negroes  for  support  which  is  the  custom 
in  all  slavestates.  I  observed  no  less  than  4  or  5 
grog  shops  in  fact  all  men  in  the  country  sell 
Whiskey  &  other  things  to  us  soldiers  at  a  most 
exorbitant  price  —  For  instance  25  cts  a  pt  for 
Whisky  12>^  cts  a  qt  for  milk  &c". 

Fifteen  miles  were  made  on  May  26th  over  a 
ground  saturated  with  rain,  and  on  that  evening  the 
company  rested  at  Camp  Cass  —  evidently  near  the 
present  town  of  Cassville,  Missouri.  The  men  were 
now  reduced  to  half  rations  of  meat  and  were  look- 
ing in  vain  for  elk  and  other  kinds  of  game.  Mumps 
had  attacked  some  of  the  men  and  others  were  feel- 
ing the  effects  of  eating  poor  food  and  sleeping  on 
the  damp  ground.  Mules  and  pack  horses  were  in 
good  condition,  but  no  corn  could  be  secured  for 


32       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

them.  "This  country",  concludes  the  journal,  '4s 
remarkable  for  insects  such  as  snakes.  Ticks,  & 
Cattipillars." 

In  the  next  two  days  the  command  rode  forty- 
eight  miles,  but  five  of  the  dragoons  who  were  so 
unfortunate  as  to  become  sick  were  left  behind.  On 
the  following  day  a  forced  march  of  thirty-four 
miles  brought  them  within  seventy  miles  of  the  fort. 
Men  and  horses  were  improving  daily  and  the  spirits 
of  the  troopers  became  more  buoyant  as  they  neared 
their  journey's  end.  "It  is  now  past  11",  runs  the 
drowsy  scribble  for  this  day,  "&  we  have  to  rise 
before  3  therefore  I  must  take  to  my  blanketts  for 
repose  trusting  the  fatigues  of  the  days  march  wdll 
render  sleep  inviting". 

After  pushing  forward  twenty-eight  miles  on 
May  30th  the  company  halted  to  make  preparations 
for  inspection  at  the  fort.  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Kearny  joined  in  the  march  the  following  day,  but 
the  excessive  heat  of  Sunday,  June  1st,  induced  the 
troops  to  remain  encamped.  The  remaining  ten 
miles  were  ridden  on  Monday  when  they  arrived  at 
Camp  Jackson.  The  Bostonians  of  Company  F  and 
the  Hoosiers  of  Company  G  had  arrived  a  few  weeks 
before. 

Eager  to  begin  the  summer's  campaign  the 
officers  increased  their  efforts  to  prepare  men  and 

horses  for  the  far  western  tour.     Sergeant  S 

daily  instructed  a  class  of  officers  in  swordsmanship, 
which  they  in  turn  attempted  to  impart  to  the  men. 
"Our    camp    is    now,"     describes     one     dragoon, 


"WINTER  AT  CAMP  JACKSON  33 

'throughout  the  day,  a  constant  scene  of  bustle  and 
noise,  the  blacksmith  shops  a^re  kept  in  continual 
operation,  tailors  and  saddlers  find  constant  employ- 
ment, and  in  fact  no  one  has  time  to  be  idle ;  one  half 
the  regiment  are  daily  detailed  to  watch  horses 
whilst  grazing  upon  the  prairies,  which  is  now  the 
most  severe  duty  to  be  performed,  standing  during 
the  whole  of  the  day  exposed  to  the  heat  of  a  broiling 
sun,  which  during  the  last  week  has  raised  the  mer- 
cury to  from  103°  to  107°  in  the  thermometer."^-'^ 

The  regiment  of  dragoons,  as  well  as  the  seventh 
regiment  of  infantry,  was  reviewed  by  General 
Leavenworth  on  June  10th,  and  to  the  thousands  of 
Indians  and  other  spectators  the  review  was  an 
interesting  and  novel  scene.  The  troops  dressed  in 
fatigue  uniform  and  drawn  up  in  battle  array  per- 
formed the  maneuvers  of  battle,  of  charge,  and  of 
repulse,  as  well  as  other  feats  of  horsemanship.^* 
The  later  farewells  and  good  wishes  from  the  infan- 
trymen to  the  dragoons  can  be  imagined ;  but  neither 
then  knew  that  a  large  number  of  the  young  soldiers 
would  never  return  from  the  arid  western  plains. 


IV 


THE  EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEE  PICT 
VILLAGE  ^^ 

"The  act  for  the  better  defense  of  the  frontiers  by 
raising  a  regiment  of  dragoons  is  in  process  of 
execution",  Secretary  Cass  had  written  late  in  1833. 
Somewhere  on  the  Red  River,  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  the  west  of  Fort  Gibson,  lay  the 
Pawnee  Pict  and  Camanche  villages.  Between  the 
Missouri  and  Arkansas  frontiers  and  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  but  beyond  the  reach  of  infantry  forces, 
roamed  the  restless  Pawnees  and  Camanches. 

These  tribes  had  not  yet  recognized  the  United 
States  in  any  treaties.  Without  stationary  resi- 
dences, but  with  a  supply  of  horses,  these  wild 
plainsmen  could  be  held  in  check  only  by  a  similar 
force  occasionally  displayed  among  them.  Policy 
and  humanity  urged  such  a  course,  and  Secretary 
Cass  believed  that  the  first  United  States  Dragoons 
would  impress  upon  these  Indians  the  power  of  the 
United  States,  and  excite  a  deeper  respect  for  the 
government.  ''It  will  do  honor  to  the  army",  he 
said,  "and  render  effectual  service  to  the  country. "°^ 

When  Colonel  Dodge  on  June  15,  1834,  gave  his 
order   of  "Forward,   march!"   nine  companies   of 

34 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  35 

about  five  hundred  men  responded  and  began  their 
summer  campaign.  It  was  an  imposing  cavalcade : 
the  tramp  of  the  horses  on  the  prairie  mingled  with 
the  commands  of  the  officers;  the  proud  and  manly 
deportment  of  the  young  men  indicated  the  buoyant 
hope  and  spirit  of  the  army;  a  company  of  white 
horses  made  a  striking  contrast  to  another  one  of 
blacks ;  while  sorrels  and  bays  gave  added  effects  of 
color.  To  the  rear  of  the  companies  might  have  been 
seen  and  heard  the  lumbering  movements  of  the 
baggage-wagons. 

Four  bands  of  Indians  —  Senecas,  Osages,  Chero- 
kees,  and  Delawares  —  joined  the  expedition  to  serve 
as  hunters,  guides,  and  interpreters.  Two  young 
girls,  a  Kiowa  of  about  fifteen  years  and  a  Pawnee 
of  about  eighteen  years,  were  taken  with  the  dra- 
goons to  be  restored  to  their  tribes.  This  policy  it 
was  believed  would  pave  the  way  for  friendly  inter- 
course.^^ George  Catlin,  the  famous  portrait  painter 
of  Indians,  had  been  given  permission  by  the  Secre- 
tary of  War  to  accompany  the  expedition  in  its  visit 
to  the  wild  tribes  along  the  Arkansas  and  the  Red 
rivers.  "I  start  this  morning  with  the  dragoons  for 
the  Pawnee  country",  he  wrote  on  June  19th,  "but 
God  only  knows  where  that  is."^^ 

Long  forced  marches  were  made  during  the  warm 
sultry  June  days.  Springs  and  streams  provided  a 
bountiful  supply  of  water  and  the  prairies  furnished 
pasturage  for  the  dragoon  horses.  On  the  26th  of 
June  they  passed  a  band  of  five  or  six  hundred 
Osages   under   the   command   of   ''Black   Dog",   a 


36      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

famous  warrior  of  that  nation.  On  the  next  day  a 
herd  of  buffalo  was  met  and  General  Leavenworth 
and  Colonel  Dodge  tested  the  mettle  and  speed  of 
their  horses.  Signs  of  the  Pawnees  became  more 
abundant.  On  July  1st  forty-five  men  and  three 
officers  were  reported  sick  from  the  excessive  heat, 
and  each  day  the  command  pushed  on  with  depleted 
ranks. 

On  July  4th  the  dragoons  were  ferried  across  the 
Washita  River.  ''Our  baggage",  relates  a  dragoon 
of  Captain  Browne's  company,  "we  transported  by 
means  of  a  raft  constructed  by  canoes  lashed  to- 
gether and  covered  with  planks.  We  also  used  a 
canvass  Boat  covered  with  gum  Elastick  belonging 
to  Col  Kearney  which  we  found  to  answer  an  excel- 
lent purpose.  Having  encamped  on  the  opposite  side 
with  our  whole  force  &  concluding  it  best  to  travel 
with  as  little  encumbrance  as  possible.  Col  Dodge 
selected  about  250  men  &  horses  most  able  for  duty 
&  taking  only  10  days  provisions  for  20  days  susti- 
nence,  set  forward  on  a  forced  march.  "^^^ 

About  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  had  now 
been  marched  by  the  dragoons,  when  early  in  July  a 
reorganization  of  the  regiment  became  necessary. 
Six  companies  of  forty-two  men  each  were  to  con- 
tinue the  campaign  with  Colonel  Dodge  in  command. 
One  hundred  and  nine  were  left  for  duty  at  Camp 
Leavenworth,  together  with  eighty-six  sick  men. 
Baggage-wagons  were  abandoned;  each  man  was 
furnished  with  ten  days'  rations  and  eighty  rounds 
of  cartridges ;  and  the  march  once  more  began. 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  37 

Day  after  day  through  the  month  of  July  the 
command  continued  its  march  over  the  rolling 
prairies.  Now  and  then  a  stray  band  of  Indians 
would  be  observed.  Wild  horses  in  large  herds 
passed ;  and  enormous  herds  of  buffalo  moved  across 
the  plains.  Men  and  beasts  were  prostrated  by  heat 
and  the  strenuous  campaign,  while  the  low  state  of 
the  provisions  brought  anxiety  to  Colonel  Dodge. 
On  July  14th  a  roving  band  of  about  forty  Caman- 
ches  entered  the  camp  to  beg  tobacco  and  to  talk  with 
the  dragoon  colonel.  From  these  Indians  Colonel 
Dodge  learned  that  the  Camanches,  Kiowas,  and  the 
Pawnee  Picts  (or  Toyash)  were  friends  and  to  some 
degree  allies.  ''The  Camanches  are,  we  learn," 
runs  the  journal  of  this  expedition,  "the  largest 
band,  the  proudest  and  boldest ;  therefore  the  colonel 
has  resolved  to  visit  them  first ;  thence  to  the  Toyash 
village,  establish  friendly  understandings  with  one 
or  both,  or  war  with  one  or  both,  as  may  be ;  officers 
and  men  on  the  alert,  as  if  in  the  atmosphere  of 
war.  "^'^ 

Colonel  Dodge  now  pushed  on  and  soon  arrived 
at  a  Camanche  camp  of  about  two  hundred  skin 
lodges.  About  a  hundred  mounted  Camanches, 
seemingly  not  a  little  alarmed,  came  to  welcome  the 
dragoons.  Thousands  of  horses  were  grazing  about 
the  Indian  camp,  and  several  of  the  officers  pur- 
chased animals  for  a  blanket  or  a  butcher  knife. 
Colonel  Dodge  waited  for  the  Camanche  chief,  then 
absent  on  a  hunting  trip ;  but  after  more  than  a  day's 
fruitless  waiting  the  regiment  moved  on  in  the  direc- 


38      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

tion  of  the  Toyash  village.  An  Indian  who  had  been 
at  the  Toyash  camp  promised  Colonel  Dodge  to 
guide  him  thither. 

By  July  19th  the  command  had  been  reduced  to 
one  hundred  and  eighty-three  men.  Seventy-five, 
over  one-half  of  whom  were  sick,  had  been  left 
behind.  Desertions  had  also  reduced  the  band.  For 
a  month  the  soldiers  had  been  without  a  morsel  of 
bread,  and  their  appetites  had  become  too  voracious 
to  distinguish  between  horse  flesh  and  buffalo  meat. 
The  mirage  of  a  waterfall  glistening  in  the  sunlight 
was  discovered  to  be  a  mass  of  salt.  "No  buffalo", 
records  Lieutenant  Wheelock's  journal.  "Our  un- 
shod horses  suffered  very  much  to-day ;  wild  horses 
in  abundance,  and  bears;  many  deer  were  seen;  a 
few  were  killed;  scanty  allowance  of  provisions  for 
our  men ;  we  march  too  fast  to  be  able  to  hunt  much 
on  the  road;  game  is  now  divided  among  the  com- 
mand with  great  care;  marched  in  three  columns; 
baggage  reduced  to  three  pack  horses  to  each 
company. ' ' 

Across  reddish  granite  hills,  deep  ravines,  and 
difficult  passes  Colonel  Dodge  continued  the  toilsome 
and  intricate  route.  On  July  20,  1834,  they  were 
within  five  miles  of  the  Toyash  village  situated  on  a 
branch  of  the  Ked  River.  The  non-appearance  of 
the  band  convinced  the  dragoons  that  the  Indians 
had  either  fled  or  that  they  had  determined  to  make 
a  stand  and  fight.  Bayonets  were  fixed  and  every 
preparation  for  a  conflict  was  made.  On  the  next 
day  the  command  proceeded  a  mile  when  they  were 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  39 

met  by  about  sixty  Indians,  who  seemed  greatly 
alarmed  and  begged  Colonel  Dodge  not  to  fire  upon 
them.  After  several  miles  of  marching  along  exten- 
sive and  well  cultivated  fields  of  squashes,  pumpkins, 
beans,  melons,  and  corn,  the  dragoons  reached  the 
village. 

Here  then  was  the  Toyash  or  Pawnee  Pict  vil- 
lage, the  main  goal  of  this  expedition,  and  the  object 
which  had  been  the  stimulus  during  five  long  weeks 
of  marching.  The  village,  consisting  of  about  two 
hundred  grass  lodges,  was  situated  in  a  rich  bottom 
embedded  in  the  immense  ledges  of  rocks  and  moun- 
tains. Colonel  Dodge  encamped  in  a  fine  position 
about  a  mile  from  the  village,  and  the  hungry  dra- 
goons were  soon  enjoying  the  Indian  hospitalities. 
Dishes  of  corn  and  beans  dressed  with  buffalo  fat 
were  placed  before  them.  For  dessert  the  soldiers 
enjoyed  liberal  supplies  of  watermelons  and  wild 
plums;  while  the  savages  gladly  exchanged  green 
corn,  dried  horse  meat,  and  buffalo  meat  for  Ver- 
million, articles  of  clothing,  knives,  and  tobacco.^^ 

According  to  the  previous  arrangements  of  Col- 
onel Dodge  a  grand  council  was  held  between  the 
American  officers  and  the  chiefs  and  warriors  of  the 
Toyash  nation.  Bands  of  Camanches  mounted  upon 
their  fleet  horses  had  arrived;  Pawnee  Picts  and 
Wecos  were  present  in  large  numbers ;  while  the  tall, 
erect,  and  dignified  forms  of  the  Kiowas  represented 
the  higher  type  of  the  Indians.  It  was  a  scene  that 
well  stimulated  the  pen  and  the  brush  of  George 
Catlin. 


40       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

''We  are  the  first  American  officers  who  have 
ever  come  to  see  the  Pawnees",  began  Colonel  Dodge 
at  the  first  council  on  July  22nd.  "We  meet  you  as 
friends,  not  as  enemies,  to  make  peace  with  you,  to 
shake  hands  with  you.  The  great  American  captain 
is  at  peace  with  all  the  white  men  in  the  world;  he 
wishes  to  be  at  peace  with  all  the  red  men  of  the 
world ;  we  have  been  sent  here  to  view  this  country, 
and  to  invite  you  to  go  to  Washington,  where  the 
great  American  chief  lives,  to  make  a  treaty  with 
him,  that  you  may  learn  how  he  wishes  to  send 
among  you  traders,  who  will  bring  you  guns  and 
blankets,  and  everything  that  you  want." 

Colonel  Dodge  then  referred  to  the  murder  of 
Judge  Martin,  which  some  Indians  had  committed 
on  the  False  Washita  earlier  in  the  summer.  The 
Colonel  informed  them  also  that  he  had  learned  from 
the  Camanches  that  the  little  son  of  Judge  Martin 
was  being  held  as  a  prisoner.  "Give  us  the  white 
boy,  and  we  will  give  you  the  Pawnee  girl  that  we 
have  brought  with  us."  Denials  from  the  chiefs  and 
repeated  demands  from  Colonel  Dodge  were  then 
followed  by  a  gloomy  silence.  The  accidental  dis- 
charge of  a  pistol  came  like  a  thunderbolt  and  almost 
stirred  the  already  over-strained  feelings  in  the 
council  to  the  war  point. 

Finally  a  negro  offered  Colonel  Dodge  the  infor- 
mation that  the  Indians  were  now  holding  the  young 
boy  as  a  prisoner  in  the  village.  The  Colonel  then 
became  still  more  stern  and  persistent,  declaring 
that  the  council  would  stop  until  the  boy  was  sur- 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  41 

rendered.  Further  consultation  followed  among  the 
Indians,  who  finally  sent  for  the  young  prisoner  who 
had  been  secreted  in  a  cornfield  by  the  savages.  The 
friend  of  George  Catlin  has  given  a  graphic  descrip- 
tion of  the  entrance  of  the  child  into  this  council. 

He  is  a  smart  and  very  intelligent  boy  of  nine  years  of 
age,  and  when  he  came  in,  lie  was  entirely  naked,  as  they 
keep  their  own  boys  at  that  age.  There  was  a  great  excite- 
ment in  the  council  when  the  little  fellow  was  brought  in; 
and  as  he  passed  amongst  them,  he  looked  around  and 
exclaimed,  with  some  surprise,  "Wliat!  are  there  white  men 
here?"  to  which  Colonel  Dodge  replied,  and  asked  his 
name;  and  he  promptly  answered,  "My  name  is  Matthew 
Wright  IMartin."  He  was  then  received  into  Colonel 
Dodge 's  arms ;  and  an  order  was  immediately  given  for  the 
Pawnee  and  Kiowa  girls  to  be  brought  forward;  they  were 
in  a  few  minutes  brought  into  the  council-house,  when  they 
were  at  once  recognized  by  their  friends  and  relatives,  who 
embraced  them  with  the  most  extravagant  expressions  of 
joy  and  satisfaction.  The  heart  of  the  venerable  old  chief 
was  melted  at  this  evidence  of  white  man's  friendship,  and 
he  rose  upon  his  feet,  and  taking  Colonel  Dodge  in  his  arms, 
and  placing  his  left  cheek  against  the  left  cheek  of  the 
Colonel,  held  him  for  some  minutes  without  saying  a  word, 
whilst  tears  were  flowing  from  his  eyes.  He  then  embraced 
each  officer  in  turn,  in  the  same  silent  and  affectionate  man- 
ner; which  form  took  half  an  hour  or  more,  before  it  was 
completed.^2 

Negotiations  with  the  Indians  now  became  easier 
as  Colonel  Dodge  explained  that  the  great  American 
President  desired  to  make  a  treaty  with  them  all  and 


42       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

to  exchange  prisoners.  "Peace  cannot  be  made  with 
all  the  tribes  till  a  large  white  paper  be  written  and 
signed  by  the  President  and  the  hands  of  the  chiefs. 
"Will  your  chiefs  go  with  me  now  to  see  the  Amer- 
ican President?"  They  were  also  assured  that  the 
President  would  be  very  happy  to  see  them  and 
would  make  them  presents  of  handsome  guns,  coats, 
etc.  But  objections  and  murmurings  from  the  In- 
dians now  ensued,  and  Colonel  Dodge  concluded  to 
close  the  council  and  to  wait  for  the  morrow. 

We-ter-ra-shah-ro,  an  old  chief  of  seventy  years, 
with  two  other  principal  men  met  Colonel  Dodge  at 
his  tent  the  next  morning  for  a  further  ''talk".  The 
four  leaders  of  the  bands  that  had  accompanied  the 
dragoons  from  Fort  Gibson  were  also  present  and 
participated  in  the  council.  Colonel  Dodge  once 
more  urged  that  a  few  of  the  chiefs  accompany  him 
back  to  Fort  Gibson :  it  was  a  plea  for  peace  from  a 
man  who  had  grown  gray  in  Indian  warfare.  Fol- 
lowing further  deliberations  and  consultations,  the 
old  Chief  We-ter-ra-shah-ro  was  the  first  to  announce 
some  willingness  to  go.  "We  wish  much  to  make 
peace,"  he  said,  "with  the  Osages;  we  have  been 
long  at  war  with  them;  we  wish  to  see  the  lands  of 
the  Creeks  and  Cherokees  also,  to  shake  hands  with 
all."  Then  spoke  Dutch,  the  Cherokee,  a  man  of 
remarkable  personal  beauty,  daring  character,  and 
reputation  for  his  successful  enterprises  against  the 
Osages.  He  assured  Colonel  Dodge  that  the  Chero- 
kees and  the  whites  were  friends  and  that  they  could 
visit  each  other  without  fear. 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  43 

Beatte,  the  leader  of  the  Osage  band,  then  made 
a  speech.  He  was  a  Frenchman  who  had  spent  his 
life  among  the  Osages  and  was  widely  known  as  a 
skilled  hunter.  "We  look  at  our  friend  (Colonel 
Dodge)  as  our  father",  he  said.  *'He  is  a  true 
father  to  us  all."  He  ended  by  urging  that  the 
chiefs  visit  the  Osages  with  "our  father  as  he 
wishes."  Monpisha,  another  Osage,  indorsed 
Beatte 's  speech,  declaring  that  the  Indians  should 
be  taught  to  build  homes  and  to  raise  cattle.  "Your 
buffalo  will  be  gone  in  a  few  years",  he  warned. 
"Your  great  father,  the  President,  will  give  you 
cattle,  and  teach  you  how  to  live  without  buffalo." 

George  Bullett,  the  Delaware,  then  gave  assur- 
ance of  the  friendship  of  his  people,  after  which 
Colonel  Dodge  resumed  his  speech.  He  expressed 
his  regret  that  some  of  the  dragoon  horses  had 
broken  into  some  of  the  cornfields,  and  he  promised 
to  pay  for  the  damage  done.  "I  wish  you  now  to 
consider  if  some  of  you  will  go  with  me",  he  said  to 
the  chiefs  on  their  departure.  The  chiefs  then  signi- 
fied their  intention  of  going  to  their  lodges  to  select 
some  braves  who  should  accompany  Colonel  Dodge 
to  Fort  Gibson. 

Many  Camanches  arrived  during  the  day  and 
visited  the  tent  of  Colonel  Dodge,  who  then  repeated 
his  "talk"  given  in  the  morning.  Ta-we-que-nah, 
one  of  the  three  newly  arrived  chiefs,  was  warm  in 
his  professions  of  friendship,  and  offered  to  ex- 
change a  Spanish  girl  for  the  young  Kiowa  girl 
whom  the  dragoons  had  brought  with  them.     But 


44      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Colonel  Dodge  wished  to  secure  the  friendship  of 
the  Kiowas  and  said  to  the  chief:  ''I  mean  to  give 
her  to  her  relations  and  friends  without  price ;  I  will 
give  the  girl  to  her  tribe;  they  shall  see  how  much 
their  friends  we  are." 

But  here  occurred  a  dramatic  interruption. 
Twenty  or  thirty  mounted  Kiowas  suddenly  dashed 
into  the  camp  and  almost  into  Colonel  Dodge's  tent. 
These  Indians  believed  that  the  whites  were  in 
league  with  the  hated  Osages  in  holding  the  Kiowa 
girl  as  a  prisoner.  They  were  admirably  equipped 
for  flight  or  fight,  and  with  their  bows  strung  and 
their  quivers  filled  with  arrows  they  presented  a  bold 
and  w^arlike  appearance.  The  dragoons  looked  to 
their  own  arms,  the  squaws  and  children  fled  in 
terror,  and  a  battle  seemed  in  prospect.  Colonel 
Dodge,  however,  quickly  relieved  the  strain,  ad- 
dressing them  with  assurances  of  friendship  and 
with  the  intimation  that  the  Kiowa  girl  should  be 
restored  to  her  father  and  friends.  A  general  coun- 
cil between  the  Camanche,  Toyash,  and  Kiowa 
nations  was  to  be  held  the  next  day. 

Not  less  than  two  thousand  mounted  and  armed 
warriors  surrounded  the  council  where  Colonel 
Dodge  and  his  officers  once  more  met  the  head  men 
and  chiefs  of  the  various  tribes.  The  Kiowas  em- 
braced Colonel  Dodge,  and  savage  hearts  were 
moved  to  emotions  of  gratitude  over  the  restoration 
of  their  relative.  The  squaws  with  tearful  eyes 
embraced  the  girl  seated  among  the  chiefs,  at  the 
same  time  showering  their  blessings  upon  her 
deliverer. 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  45 

The  council  began  and  the  pipe  of  peace  was 
passed.  There  was  seated  a  group  of  American 
officers  in  their  bright  uniforms  and  swords ;  the 
savage  Toyash  looked  at  the  arrogant  and  jealous 
Camanche;  while  the  more  chivalric  and  daring 
Kiowas  made  the  fourth  group  of  the  council.  Here 
bonds  of  friendship  were  pledged  and  promises  of 
peace  were  made.  Another  band  of  sixty  Kiowas 
now  arrived,  and  when  the  ceremonies  of  their 
reception  were  ended  Colonel  Dodge  made  the 
formal  surrender  of  the  Kiowa  girl.  ''Kiowa 
chiefs!",  he  said,  ''I  herewith  present  to  you  your 
relation;  receive  her  as  the  best  evidence  of  the 
sincere  friendship  of  Americans."  This  closed  the 
council  at  the  Pawnee  Pict  village. 

On  the  next  day  the  dragoons  were  to  begin  their 
return  march;  and  early  in  the  morning  the  chiefs 
of  the  three  tribes  visited  Colonel  Dodge,  who  pre- 
sented them  with  guns  and  pistols.  Fifteen  Kiowas, 
including  their  chief,  one  Camanche,  three  Pawnee 
chiefs,  and  We-ter-ra-shah-ro,  the  old  Wacoah  chief, 
had  finally  consented  to  return  with  Colonel  Dodge 
to  Fort  Gribson.  Thus  on  July  25th  was  begun  the 
return  march  from  the  Pawnee  Pict  village. 

Over  one  hundred  miles  were  marched  in  the  first 
week  of  the  return  journey.  "We  are  eagerly  pur- 
suing our  way  home",  writes  the  journalist  of 
Company  I,  ''with  our  Indian  Ambassadors  who 
seem  remarkably  jovial  &  delighted  with  every  thing 
they  see[.]  Nightly  they  amuse  us  with  their  wild 
unintelligible  &  unaccountable  songs  which  are  far 


46      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

from  being  displeasing  as  they  all  join  in  seemingly- 
endeavoring  to  exceed  each  other  in  noise,  alto- 
gether creating  a  compound  of  the  most  unearthly 
discord  ".^^ 

The  overpowering  heat  and  the  number  of  sick 
greatly  retarded  the  speed  of  Colonel  Dodge's  dra- 
goons. By  July  29th  they  had  reached  the  buffalo 
range,  and  one  or  two  deer  were  killed,  while  one 
man  killed  a  panther.*''*  "At  twelve  o'clock  the  cry 
of  buffalo  was  heard,"  records  Lieutenant  Wheelock 
on  the  same  day, ' '  and  never  was  the  cheering  sound 
of  land  better  welcomed  by  wearied  mariners,  than 
this  by  our  hungry  columns.  The  command  was 
halted,  and  some  went  together;  the  report  of 
Beatte's  rifle,  and  the  fall  of  a  fat  cow;  halted  at  4 
o'clock,  killed  two  more  buffaloes." 

Colonel  Dodge  finally  decided  to  return  at  once 
to  Fort  Gibson  instead  of  marching  to  Fort  Leaven- 
worth. Now  and  then  a  day  of  rest  would  be  ordered 
for  the  jaded  horses;  not  unfrequently  men  were 
lost  in  hunting  buffalo;  prairie  fires  broke  out;  and 
on  August  5th  Colonel  Dodge  was  informed  of  the 
death  of  General  Leavenworth  and  Lieutenant 
George  W.  McClure  on  the  Washita  River.^^  The 
last  herd  of  buffalo  was  seen  on  that  day,  and  "L", 
the  chronicler  of  Company  I,  records  that  "we  were 
called  upon  to  look  our  last  look  upon  about  500  of 
these  welcome  Prairie  Companions''.^^ 

It  was  a  warm  and  weary  command  that  thank- 
fully returned  to  Fort  Gibson  on  August  15,  1834, 
after  a  campaign  of  just  two  months.    The  horses 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  PAWNEES  47 

presented  a  jaded  appearance  and  not  more  than  ten 
were  in  good  condition;  many  of  the  soldiers'  uni- 
forms were  tattered  and  torn  and  showed  evidences 
of  strenuous  service.  On  August  24th  Colonel 
Kearny's  command  arrived,  bringing  its  tired  dra- 
goons, its  litters  of  sick,  and  its  gaunt,  worn  horses.^^ 

Unable  to  induce  the  chiefs  to  go  to  Washington, 
Colonel  Dodge  arranged  for  another  grand  council 
at  Fort  Gibson  on  September  1,  1834.  Seven  or 
eight  tribes  assembled,  and  for  four  days  the  fumes 
of  the  peace-making  calumet  drifted  about  the  coun- 
cil. Choctaws,  Cherokees,  Osages,  Kiowas,  Senecas, 
Pawnees,  Camanches,  representing  extreme  types  of 
Indian  savages,  met  in  friendly  conclave  under  the 
protection  of  Colonel  Dodge  who  believed  that  he 
had  laid  the  foundation  of  lasting  friendship  between 
these  frontier  tribes.*^^ 

"Perhaps  their  never  has  been  in  America  a  cam- 
paign that  operated  More  Severely  on  Men  & 
Horses",  wrote  Colonel  Dodge  to  George  W.  Jones. 
''The  excessive  Heat  of  the  Sun  exceeded  any  thing 
I  ever  experienced [.]  I  marched  from  Fort  Gibson 
with  500  Men  and  when  I  reached  the  Pawnee  Pict 
Village  I  had  not  more  than  190  Men  fit  for  duty 
they  were  all  left  behind  sick  or  were  attending  on 
the  Sick  the  Heat  of  the  Weather  operated  Severely 
on  the  Dragoon  Horses  there  was  at  Least  100 
Horses  that  was  Killed  or  Broke  down  by  the  exces- 
sive Heat  of  the  Weather  the  Men  were  taken  with 
fever  and  I  was  obledged  to  Carry  Some  of  my  Men 
in  Litters  for  Several  Hundred  Miles  "."^^ 


48       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Thus  a  number  of  great  Indian  tribes  were 
brought  into  a  general  peace  and  into  an  acquaint- 
ance with  and  respect  for  the  United  States  govern- 
mentJ''  Besides  the  cost  in  money,  much  sickness 
and  hardship  had  been  endured  and  more  than  one 
hundred  dragoons  had  lost  their  lives.  Warm  praise 
was  extended  to  Colonel  Dodge  by  Lewis  Cass,  the 
Secretary  of  War;'^  and  George  Catlin  was  well 
qualified  to  praise  when  he  said :  * '  Thus  was  dragged 
through  and  completed  this  most  disastrous  cam- 
paign; and  to  Colonel  Dodge  and  Colonel  Kearney, 
who  so  indefatigably  led  and  encouraged  their  men 
through  it,  too  much  praise  cannot  be  awarded.  "'^^ 


COLONEL  KEARNY  ON  THE  RIVER  DES 
MOINES 

Only  a  brief  rest  was  allowed  the  dragoons  after 
their  fatiguing  expedition  to  the  Pawnee  Pict  vil- 
lage: again  on  September  3,  1834,  three  companies 
aggregating  one  hundred  and  thirteen  men  and  com- 
manded by  Lieutenant  Colonel  Kearny  set  out  from 
Fort  Gibson.  An  order  of  the  previous  May  from 
the  War  Department  had  directed  companies  B 
under  Captain  Sumner,  H  under  Captain  Boone,  and 
I  under  Captain  Jesse  B.  Browne  to  take  up  their 
winter  quarters  ''on  the  right  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, within  the  Indian  country  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Desmoines. "  Lieutenant  George  H.  Crosman  of 
the  Sixth  Infantry  was  detailed  as  quartermaster J^ 
On  the  second  day  of  the  journey  several  of  the 
troopers  became  sick  and  Captain  Browne  became 
too  ill  to  proceed.  Soon  they  arrived  at  an  Osage 
mission  where  several  Indian  families  resided. 
These  "subsist  principally  on  fish  &  the  chase  with 
a  few  vegitables  they  raise  themselves  in  poorly 
cultivated  fields  or  rather  patches".  A  dragoon  in 
his  journal  recorded  that  they  are  "a  filthy  race  but 
naturally  of  a  robust  constitution."'^^ 

^  49 


50       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Daily  advances  averaging  about  twenty  miles 
were  made  during  the  three  weeks  march.  Prairies, 
oak  barrens,  good  timber,  and  thickly  settled  areas 
were  traversed  in  turn  during  the  journey  across  the 
State  of  Missouri.  The  dusty  atmosphere  of  Sep- 
tember 13th  was  cleared  a  few  days  later  by  a  heavy 
rain  w^hich  saturated  the  ground.  The  Missouri 
River  was  crossed  at  Boonville  on  September  19th, 
and  the  dragoons  observed  a  country  covered  with 
farm  houses  and  plantations.  Six  days  later  after 
steady  advances  the  command  arrived  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Des  Moines  River. 

The  site  designated  for  the  encampment  could 
boast  of  a  long-established  reputation.  Sixty-five 
years  before  it  had  become  Spanish  territory,  and  in 
1799  Louis  Honore  or  Tesson  had  been  granted  by 
the  Spanish  a  tract  embracing  the  area.  For  about 
six  years  Honore  lived  upon  his  grant :  a  cabin  was 
set  up,  some  ground  was  cultivated,  and  an  apple 
orchard  of  perhaps  ten  or  fifteen  acres  was  planted. 
Here  it  is  likely  that  a  brisk  trade  with  the  Sac  and 
Fox  Indians  was  begun  in  furs  and  peltries,  and  that 
boats  would  land  to  bring  news  and  supplies  from 
the  Spanish  city  of  St.  Louis.  About  the  year  1832 
James  White  entered  upon  the  land,  fenced  in  an 
area  of  about  seven  acres,  and  built  a  double  log 
cabin  about  thirty  rods  from  the  river."^^ 

Colonel  Kearny  was  disappointed  because  of  the 
lack  of  quarters  for  his  travel-worn  horses  and 
troops.  ' '  The  quarters  for  the  officers  and  soldiers, ' ' 
he  reported  with  some  impatience  on  the  day  after 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  51 

his  arrival,  ''are  not  as  far  advanced  as  I  had  ex- 
pected and  not  a  log  is  yet  laid  for  stables  for  our 
horses.  We  shall  on  the  28th  go  to  work  with  all 
our  disposable  forces,  and  I  hope  by  the  close  of 
next  month  we  may  complete  the  buildings,  tho '  they 
will  be  less  comfortable  and  of  meaner  appearance, 
than  those  occupied  by  any  other  portion  of  the 
Army."  The  Colonel  also  requested  that  he  be  in- 
formed as  to  "what  is  required  of  this  command, 
while  stationed  here".^*^ 

But  the  quartermaster  was  already  erecting 
buildings  close  to  where  now  lies  the  quiet  village  of 
Montrose,  Iowa.  James  White's  ground  had  been 
purchased  for  six  hundred  dollars  and  his  cabin  was 
converted  into  a  hospital.'^'^  Soon  the  troops  armed 
with  saws,  axes,  planes,  and  hammers  were  at  work 
upon  the  logs  and  upon  the  lumber  brought  by  boat 
from  Pittsburgh.  The  officers'  quarters  were  near 
the  river,  while  the  soldiers'  barracks  forming  a 
double  L  ran  toward  the  river  and  left  a  beautiful 
area  in  the  center. 

Tents  were  in  the  meanwhile  sheltering  the 
troops.  The  construction  of  the  quarters  was  in 
charge  of  Lieutenant  Benj.  S.  Roberts,  the  acting 
commissary  of  the  post,  a  young  officer  fresh  from 
West  Point.  One  row  of  barracks  was  just  ready 
for  the  roof  when  the  little  lieutenant  discovered  that 
there  were  no  doors  in  the  barracks.  Orders  were 
given  to  tear  down  the  structures  and  to  cut  out  the 
doors.  In  vain  the  dragoons  remonstrated  and  ex- 
plained that  notches  had  been  cut  in  the  logs  and 


52       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

that  the  doors  would  be  cut  out  with  a  cross  saw 
when  the  roof  was  completed.  But  the  tearing  down 
commenced  and  it  was  only  the  order  of  Captain 
Browne  which  prevented  the  directions  of  the  short- 
sighted lieutenant  from  being  fully  carried  out.'^'^ 

The  winter  of  1834-1835  was  "bitterly  cold.  ''I 
chinked  my  cabin,"  wrote  one  dragoon,  "put  down 
a  second  hand  carpet  brought  from  St.  Louis,  [and] 
daubed  and  banked  my  private  stable.  "^^  Colonel 
Kearny's  letters  complained  about  the  uncomfort- 
able quarters  and  the  inadequate  supplies.  They 
recited  the  sufferings  of  the  soldiers  stationed  in  the 
wintry  wilderness  of  what  is  now  southeastern 
Iowa.  Captain  Boone  rejoined  his  company  and 
Lieutenant  Burgwin  succeeded  Crosman  in  the  ad- 
ministrative duties  at  the  post.  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Kearny  likewise  urged  that  a  name  be  given  to  the 
fort  which  had  been  referred  to  as  "the  Detachment 
Headquarters  of  the  Regiment  of  Dragoons  at  Camp 
Des  Moines,  Michigan  Territory."  Accordingly  not 
long  afterward  Secretary  Cass  designated  the  name 
of  "Fort  Des  Moines ".«« 

In  the  meantime  Captain  Sumner  had  been  enlist- 
ing dragoons  in  Pennsylvania;  while  early  in  1835 
Lieutenant  Lea  repaired  to  Fort  Gibson  and  returned 
with  about  seventy  dragoons,  which  increased 
the  force  at  the  post  to  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
seven.^^  In  the  spring  Colonel  Kearny  received 
orders  for  the  summer  campaign,  which  was  intended 
as  a  means  of  discipline  and  instruction  for  the 
soldiers  who  were  no  doubt  weary  of  barrack  duties. 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  53 

Three  companies  were  to  proceed  up  the  River  Des 
Moines  to  the  Raccoon  Fork,  to  halt  there,  and  to 
examine  the  site  with  a  view  to  the  erection  of  a 
military  post  in  that  vicinity.  A  full  report  upon 
this  subject  was  to  be  made  by  the  Colonel  upon  his 
return  to  Fort  Des  Moines.  "After  having  made 
this  reconnoissance  Lieut.  Colonel  Kearny  will  pro- 
ceed with  his  command  to  the  Sioux  Villages  near 
the  highlands  of  the  Mississippi  about  the  44°  of 
North  Latitude,  thence  taking  a  direction  to  the 
westward  return  to  his  original  position  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Des  Moines,  passing  by  the  right  bank 
of  that  river.  "^^ 

Soon  the  quiet  camp  became  a  scene  of  hurried 
activity  as  men,  horses,  mules,  cattle,  provisions,  and 
tents  were  prepared  for  the  eleven  hundred  mile 
expedition.  Company  B  was  commanded  by  Lieu- 
tenant Turner,  but  Lieutenant  Burgwin  with  a  small 
force  was  directed  to  remain  at  the  post  and  to  pro- 
vide forage  for  the  ensuing  winter.  On  June  7th  the 
detachment  began  its  march.  Fortunately  the  his- 
torian of  Company  I  again  kept  brief  daily  notes  of 
the  movements  of  the  dragoons.^^ 

After  advancing  about  fifty  miles  during  the  first 
week  the  force  encamped  near  Keokuk's  village  —  a 
point  now  marked  by  the  town  of  Agency  in  Wapello 
County.  The  handsome  prairies  were  sodden  with 
the  June  rains,  which  with  the  wind  and  hail  storms 
retarded  the  progress  of  the  troops.  The  soldiers 
were  in  remarkably  good  health,  although  on  the 
fifth  day  Captain  Browne  because  of  his  illness  was 


54      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

left  behind.  He  was  succeeded  by  Lieutenant  Albert 
M.  Lea.  At  the  Indian  town  six  or  seven  braves  were 
secured  to  accompany  the  command  and  Frank 
Labashure,  a  brilliant  but  dissolute  half-breed,  was 
induced  to  serve  as  an  interpreter. 

''Marched  16  miles  over  a  marshy  Prairie",  runs 
the  journal  entry  for  June  15th.  ''Encamped  on  a 
dry  piece  of  land  but  at  night  had  a  hard  storm  of 
rain  and  wind  accompanied  with  much  thunder  & 
lightning.  "We  left  opponuse  or  Iway  town  6  miles 
to  our  left[.]  Col.  Kearney  is  very  mild  and  the 
command  in  good  health  and  spirits.  So  much  rain 
renders  marching  unpleasant  we  have  to  encamp 
each  night  in  mud  &  water  but  still  I  am  better  con- 
tented than  when  in  quarters." 

As  mile  after  mile  was  travelled  over  what  is 
now  central  Iowa  the  dragoons  could  not  be  insen- 
sible to  the  beauties  of  a  prodigal  nature.  The  silent 
undulating  prairies,  as  yet  undisturbed  by  the 
farmer's  plow  or  even  by  the  stakes  and  chains  of 
government  surveyors,  stretched  to  the  horizon  on 
every  side.  The  tangled,  matted  grass  interspersed 
with  many  flowers  now  and  then  disclosed  the 
charred  remains  of  old  vegetation  which  had  been 
set  ablaze  by  Indians.  The  June  sun  was  reddening 
the  strawberries  and  for  mile  after  mile  they  offered, 
not  to  the  eye  alone,  a  welcome  feast.  Rivers  and 
creeks  skirted  by  shadowing  timber  and  an  occa- 
sional grove  broke  the  monotony  of  plain.  Deer  in 
abundance  furnished  game  for  the  Indian  hunters, 
while  large  numbers  of  turkeys,  grouse,  ducks,  and 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  55 

prairie  chickens  rose  in  alarm  and  took  sudden  flight 
before  this  unwelcome  invasion  of  the  United  States 
dragoons.^^ 

Failing  to  strike  the  Raccoon  Fork  of  the  Des 
Moines  River,  Colonel  Kearny  decided  to  march  in  a 
due  course  to  Wabasha's  village.  The  drenching 
rains  had  left  water  four  or  five  feet  deep,  through 
which  the  men  drew  the  wagon  and  led  the  horses. 
''Last  night",  noted  the  dragoon^^  on  June  23rd, 
''was  issued  our  last  pork  so  that  we  must  depend 
upon  the  chase  &  Beef  for  a  supply  (of  which  there 
is  plenty)  [.]  Our  salt  and  sugar  are  nearly  ex- 
hausted but  as  yet  we  have  plenty  of  flour". 

Steady  marching  in  a  northeasterly  direction 
during  the  last  week  of  June  carried  the  force  into 
the  present  State  of  Minnesota.  Day  after  day  the 
cavalcade  filed  over  the  prairies  now  dotted  with 
cities  and  homes.  With  much  difficulty  they  forded 
numerous  rivers  and  streams.  The  discovery  of  an 
old  Sioux  fort  containing  twenty  or  thirty  dug-outs 
added  interest  to  the  anticipated  meeting  with  that 
tribe.  But  the  sight  of  a  herd  of  buffalo  on  June 
24th  gave  a  thrill  of  excitement  to  many  of  the  new 
recruits  who  had  never  seen  this  lord  of  the  plains. 
At  once  the  quiet  march  was  interrupted  by  the 
jingling  of  spurs,  the  eager  shouts  of  the  men,  and 
the  trampling  of  buffalo  and  horses'  hoofs  over  the 
prairie.  The  chase  continued  until  five  or  six  buffalo 
had  been  slain  —  the  chronicler  noting  with  satis- 
faction that  "this  day  was  spent  in  eating  Buffalo 
beef  &  sleep".    On  the  next  day  a  hunter  killed  an 


56       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

elk  which  was  a  welcome  addition  to  the  soldiers* 
mess.  Three  days  later  (near  the  present  city  of 
Osage)  another  snccessful  buffalo  hunt  was  enjoyed 
and  after  some  difficulty  0.  H.  P.  Miller,  a  dragoon 
from  Virginia,  captured  a  buffalo  calf,  which  became 
an  object  of  curiosity  in  the  dragoon  camp. 

The  northeasterly  advance  carried  the  little  de- 
tachment through  picturesque  scenes.  Oak  barrens, 
the  abundance  of  wood  and  water,  high  hills,  deep 
valleys,  cascades,  and  gushing  springs  provoked 
expressions  of  admiration  from  the  usually  brief  pen 
of  the  dragoon  writer.  Deserted  wigwams  and 
patches  of  abandoned  corn  and  pumpkins  were  signs 
of  former  Sioux  habitations.  When  near  the  Missis- 
sippi he  wrote :  ''I  ascended  one  of  the  highest  peaks, 
more  than  1000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  stream 
below.  Far  in  the  Horizon  I  could  discern  the  broad 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  &  Lake  pepin  spotted  with 
here  and  there  an  Indian  Canoe  which  from  the 
eminence  appeared  like  dots  upon  a  mirror." 

Nearly  two  weeks  were  spent  in  the  vicinity  of 
Wabasha's  village  near  the  present  city  of  Winona 
in  Minnesota.  Soon  a  brisk  trade  in  sutler's  goods 
was  conducted  by  Sergeant  J.  C.  Parrott  with  the 
Sioux,  who  were  described  as  ''mostly  a  dirty 
thieving  race  living  in  the  most  abominably  filthy 
manner."  On  July  19th  Wabasha,  attended  by 
numerous  followers  who  gazed  in  wonderment  upon 
the  well-equipped  horses  and  the  uniforms  of  the 
dragoons,  visited  the  camp  and  concluded  a  treaty 
with  Lieutenant  Colonel  Kearny. 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  57 

The  return  toward  the  Raccoon  Fork  of  the  Des 
Moines  was  begun  on  July  21st  in  a  due  west  course. 
In  the  present  county  of  Freeborn  in  Minnesota  a 
council  was  called  to  discuss  plans  for  getting  out  of 
that  almost  impassable  lake  region.  *'In  the  mean- 
time the  men  are  taking  their  rest  in  the  shade  their 
horses  grazing  beside  them.  .  .  .  The  land  about 
here  is  good.  Grass  &  herbage  of  all  kinds  in  the 
highest  natural  state.  Grass  8  ft  high.  One  of  our 
Indians  killed  a  grey  Eagle  on  the  lake  shore.  Signs 
of  Beaver,  Muskrat  and  otter.  .  .  .  Saw  several 
handsome  lakes  &  some  of  the  most  beautiful  small 
Prairies  I  have  seen  since  I  have  been  in  the  West. 
I  have  seen  some  romantick  and  handsome  land- 
scapes but  this  far  surpasses  any  country  I  have  ever 
seen  both  for  beauty  &  fertility". 

A  forced  march  of  35  miles  on  July  31st  through 
what  is  now  Kossuth  County,  Iowa,  brought  to  view 
a  region  without  wood  or  good  water.  "We  are 
wandering  about  like  half-starved  wolves  &  no  per- 
son appears  to  know  in  what  direction  we  ought  to 
steer.  Much  murmering  by  the  men.  Very  cold  for 
the  season. ' '  In  swift  and  steady  movements  during 
the  next  eight  days  Lieutenant  Colonel  Kearny  ad- 
vanced nearly  two  hundred  miles,  encamping  on 
August  8,  1835,  at  the  Raccoon  Fork.  There  near  a 
bubbling  spring  and  a  spongy  meadow  Lieutenant 
Lea  and  two  brother  officers  could  well  enjoy  the 
landscape  as  they  feasted  on  a  fat  young  buck  and  a 
flask  of  fine  old  French  brandy.^*'  And  as  they 
looked  about  no  clouds  of  smoke  marred  the  scenery 


58       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

and  no  gilded  dome  rose  above  the  eastern  horizon. 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Kearny  and  his  officers  rode 
over  a  considerable  portion  of  the  site  and  the  coun- 
try which  surrounded  it.  The  point  of  land  between 
the  two  streams  near  their  junction  was  about  eight 
feet  above  water  mark  and  widened  out  as  the 
rivers  receded.  The  Des  Moines  River  was  found  to 
be  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  wide  and  easily 
fordable.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  there  was 
an  abundance  of  timber,  such  as  oak,  walnut,  elm, 
ash,  linn,  and  cottonwood,  which  was  suitable  for 
firewood  and  building  material.  From  Lieutenant 
Lea's  observations  it  appeared  that  the  site  was  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Des 
Moines  River  by  land  and  two  hundred  and  sixty-six 
by  water.^''' 

The  location  was  regarded  by  the  Colonel  as 
neither  suitable  nor  advantageous  for  the  erection  of 
a  military  post.  The  navigation  of  the  Des  Moines 
River  by  boats  large  enough  to  carry  military  stores 
was  at  all  times  uncertain;  the  Sacs  and  the  Sioux 
were  peaceful  and  the  establishment  of  a  barrier 
between  them  was  unnecessary;  the  upper  fork  of 
the  Des  Moines  River  would  afford  a  more  strategic 
location  should  such  a  barrier  be  needed ;  and  finally 
the  Sacs  were  decidedly  opposed  to  the  erection  of  a 
post  at  the  Raccoon  River,  ''giving  as  one  of  their 
objections,  that  the  Whites  would  drive  off  the  little 
game  that  is  left  in  their  country." 

The  homeward  march  from  this  point  to  the  fort 
was  without  special  event.    Lieutenant  Lea  with  one 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  59 

dragoon  and  an  Indian  descended  the  Des  Moines 
River  in  a  cottonwood  canoe,  estimating  distances, 
examining  the  geology  of  the  banks,  sounding  shoals, 
making  sketches,  and  enduring  the  gnats  and  mos- 
quitoes.*^ The  dragoons  following  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  arrived  at  the  fort  on  the  afternoon  of 
August  19th  after  an  absence  of  over  ten  weeks,  and 
without  the  loss  of  any  tool,  wagon,  horse,  or  man. 
'^Sickness  and  all  Disease",  concluded  the  dragoon 
writer,  ''has  been  a  stranger  to  the  camp  .... 
&  upon  the  whole  I  can  say  we  have  had  a  pleasant 
Campaign ' '. 

A  winter  full  of  monotonous  barrack  life  and 
drills  followed;  nor  is  it  surprising  that  there  was 
much  card-playing  after  pay  day.  Drinking  was 
considerable ;  and  at  least  one  dragoon  captain  from 
Kentucky  was  not  a  stranger  to  the  grog-shops  in 
Fort  Madison.*^  It  is  not  difficult  to  imagine  that 
soldiers  often  loitered  at  the  boat  landing  near  the 
rapids.  Keel-boats  and  steamers  bound  for  the 
Galena  lead  mines,  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  even  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony  discharged  their  heavy  freight 
to  and  from  small  boats  in  order  to  pass  over  the 
rapids.  These  craft  landing  supplies  for  the  gar- 
rison likewise  brought  news  from  the  outside  world 
and  letters  from  distant  homes. ^*^ 

"I  landed  at  Fort  des  Moines  [in  1835]  only  for 
a  few  minutes,"  described  a  steamboat  passenger 
from  England,  "and  had  but  just  time  to  remark 
the  pale  and  sickly  countenances  of  such  soldiers  as 
were  loitering  about  the  beach;  indeed,  I  was  told  by 


60       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

a  young  man  who  was  sutler  at  this  post  that  when 
he  had  left  it  a  few  weeks  before,  there  was  only  one 
officer  on  duty  out  of  seven  or  eight,  w^ho  were  sta- 
tioned there.  The  number  of  desertions  from  this 
post  was  said  to  be  greater  than  from  any  other  in 
the  United  States. '"-^^  The  observer  expressed  sur- 
prise, in  view  of  the  facilities  for  escape  and  the  lax 
punishment  for  desertions,  that  the  ranks  did  not 
become  even  thinner  than  they  were. 

Some  pleasant  social  life  was  provided  by  the 
few  ladies  at  the  post.  An  interesting  event  was  the 
visit  of  Colonel  Zachary  Taylor,  of  soldierly  bearing 
but  of  slovenly  and  careless  appearance  in  his  sky- 
blue  trousers  and  cow-hide  boots.  Brightly  dressed 
young  soldiers  would  sometimes  cross  the  river  to 
Commerce  w^here  James  White  had  a  hospitable 
stone  house  and  pretty  daughters.  And  here  with 
partners  on  a  smooth  floor  and  amid  the  strains  of 
tortured  cat-gut,  the  young  soldiers  forgot  the  irk- 
some duties  of  barrack  life  at  Fort  Des  Moines. ^^ 

Colonel  George  Croghan,  who  visited  the  post  on 
December  3,  1835,  found  a  force  aggregating  one 
hundred  and  eighty-four  men  and  a  total  of  two 
hundred  and  five  horses  and  mules.  The  roofs  of 
some  of  the  buildings  were  leakj^,  the  health  of  the 
garrison  was  unnecessarily  bad,  and  the  hospital 
facilities  were  very  inadequate.  In  the  following 
July  it  appears  that  Colonel  Dodge  resigned  his 
command  and  was  succeeded  by  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Kearny  who  repaired  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  The 
command  of  Fort  Des  Moines  was  then  given  to 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  61 

Captain  Sumner  until  Major  Eichard  B.  Mason,  who 
was  to  succeed  Kearny,  should  arrive  at  the  post.^^ 

Another  summer  campaign  was  expected ;  accord- 
ingly, on  June  6,  1836,  a  detachment  of  about  one 
hundred  men  under  Captain  Sumner  started  for 
Fort  Howard  on  Green  Bay,  far  to  the  northeast. 
This  destination  had  been  decided  upon  partially  by 
rumors  of  Indian  hostility  in  that  region.  The  over- 
land march  across  Illinois  led  them  through  Peoria, 
and  as  they  approached  the  village  a  trooper  sound- 
ed a  few  notes  on  his  bugle.  ^'In  a  few  moments", 
wrote  an  observer,  ''a  lengthened  troop  of  cavalry, 
with  baggage-cars  and  military  paraphernalia,  was 
beheld  winding  over  a  distant  roll  of  the  prairie, 
their  arms  glittering  gayly  in  the  horizontal  beams 
of  the  sinking  sun  as  the  ranks  appeared,  were  lost, 
reappeared,  and  then,  by  an  inequality  of  the  route, 
were  concealed  from  the  view.  "^^ 

The  white  tents  were  pitched  on  a  low  prairie 
bottom;  arms  and  military  accoutrements  were 
stacked  up  or  suspended  on  the  branches  of  trees; 
while  the  troops,  after  picketing  the  horses  to  graze, 
engaged  in  the  culinary  operations  of  the  camp  or 
lounged  upon  the  grass  as  the  laugh  and  jests  went 
free.  "Captain  S ",  recorded  a  visitor,  "re- 
ceived us  leisurely  reclining  upon  a  buffalo  robe  in 
his  tent;  and,  in  a  brief  interview,  we  found  him 
possessed  of  all  that  gentlemanly  naivete  which  for- 
eign travellers  would  have  us  believe  is,  in  our 
country,  confined  to  the  profession  of  arms."^^ 

At  Chicago  they  found  a  city  of  about  six  thou- 


62       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

sand  people.  Veering  toward  the  north  the  com- 
mand came  to  the  thriving  beginnings  of  Milwaukee. 
Advancing  to  Green  Bay  they  ascended  the  Fox 
Eiver,  and  later  visited  the  garrison  at  Fort  Craw- 
ford. After  touching  at  Galena  and  at  Rock  Island 
the  dragoons  returned  to  the  fort  where  they  were 
given  a  sumptuous  feast  by  the  rest  of  the  garrison.^® 

Henceforth  the  story  of  this  post  is  concerned 
with  its  gradual  abandonment.*^"  Designed  as  a 
temporary  camp,  the  fort  had  been  maintained 
mainly  because  of  the  irresolution  and  delay  of  the 
military  authorities.  On  September  18,  1836,  Lieu- 
tenant Colonel  Mason  reported  that  speculators  were 
encroaching  upon  the  lands  of  the  garrison,  laying 
out  a  town,  and  selling  lots.  Other  parties  were 
erecting  buildings  and  planning  to  sell  whiskey  to 
the  Indians  and  to  the  soldiers.  Orders  from  the 
War  Department  a  month  later  directed  the  immedi- 
ate evacuation  of  the  post  and  on  October  30th 
Captain  Sumner  with  Company  B  departed  for  Fort 
Leavenworth. 

It  was  a  feeble  garrison  that  remained  during 
the  winter.  Many  of  the  soldiers  had  been  stricken 
with  intermittent  fever,  and  in  the  spring  fleas 
invaded  the  camp.^^  Of  the  seventy-six  men  remain- 
ing the  terms  of  enlistment  of  fifty-eight  would 
expire  during  the  winter  or  the  ensuing  spring. 
*'The  post  is  this  day  abandoned,"  wrote  Lieutenant 
Colonel  Mason  on  June  1,  1837,  ''and  the  squadron 
takes  up  its  march  for  Fort  Leavenworth.  It  has 
been  delayed  until  this  date  in  order  that  the  grass 


ON  THE  RIVER  DES  MOINES  63 

might  be  sufficiently  high  to  afford  grazing  for  the 
horses,  as  corn  cannot  be  had  on  some  parts  of  the 
route."  And  so  about  eighteen  dragoons,  the  rem- 
nants of  companies  H  and  I,  bade  a  last,  and  perhaps 
hearty  farewell  to  the  hardships  and  joys  of  this 
rather  inglorious  western  post. 


VI 


PRAIRIE  TRAVELS  TO  THE  ROCKY 
MOUNTAINS  99 

A  MAKCH  of  sixteen  hundred  miles  through  the 
regions  now  contained  in  the  States  of  Nebraska, 
Colorado,  and  Kansas  was  the  military  achievement 
of  the  First  United  States  Dragoons  in  1835.  This 
tour  through  a  continuous  wilderness  of  alternate 
prairie  and  woodland  was  the  eleventh  mounted 
expedition  of  Colonel  Henry  Dodge  and  the  last  time 
that  he  led  a  dragoon  march.  His  troops  moved 
along  the  Platte  and  far  to  the  west  along  the  South 
Platte,  returning  down  the  valley  of  the  Arkansas 
and  over  a  portion  of  the  Santa  Fe  road.  In  these 
months  of  exploring  the  dragoons  held  talks  and 
councils  with  numerous  Indian  bands  and  tribes  of 
the  plains. 

Agreeably  to  an  order  of  March  9,  1835,  the 
detachment  of  dragoons  under  Colonel  Dodge  left 
Fort  Leavenworth  on  the  29th  of  the  next  May. 
Company  A  with  forty  men  was  commanded  by 
Captain  Lan.  P.  Lupton;  Company  C  of  forty  men 
was  in  charge  of  Captain  Matthew  Duncan;  while 
the  thirty-seven  men  of  Company  G  were  led  by 
Captain  Lemuel  Ford.    Lieutenant  Enoch  Steen  was 

64 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  65 

in  command  of  two  swivels.  Lieutenant  G.  P.  Kings- 
bury was  the  journalist  of  the  expedition;  while 
Major  Dougherty,  Indian  Agent,  and  Captain  Gantt, 
an  Indian  trader,  accompanied  the  force  as  inter- 
preters and  guides.  The  three  companies  were 
directed  to  take  sixty  days'  rations  of  flour  and  ten 
days'  rations  of  pork;  while  twenty-five  beeves  and 
two  wagon-loads  of  flour  were  to  be  taken  by  the 
assistant  commissary  of  subsistence. 

One  hundred  miles  were  traversed  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  during  the  first  week.  The  line  of 
march  lay  across  the  reservation  of  the  Kickapoos 
and  then  across  the  Nemaha  River  in  what  is  now  the 
State  of  Nebraska. ^*^*^  Continuing,  Colonel  Dodge's 
command  entered  the  lands  of  the  half-breed  Otoes 
and  Omahas.  On  the  7th  of  June  a  large  herd  of  elk 
was  seen,  but  the  hunters  were  not  able  to  approach 
near  enough  to  shoot  them.  The  country  was  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  plain,  diversified  with  all  the 
accidents  of  wood,  creeks,  and  ravines. 

Two  days  later  the  command  reached  the  valley 
of  the  Platte  River  and  encamped  on  its  banks  only 
seven  or  eight  miles  from  the  Oto  village.  Jutan, 
the  principal  chief  of  this  tribe,  who  came  to  meet 
the  dragoons,  had  been  a  bold  and  successful  war- 
rior. He  is  described  by  Lieutenant  Kingsbury  as  a 
man  ' '  about  fifty  years  of  age,  tall,  well  made,  with  a 
fine  and  intelligent  cast  of  countenance."  On  the 
next  day  the  village  of  the  Otoes  was  reached  and 
the  dragoons  were  given  a  joyous  welcome. ^^^ 

Colonel  Dodge  (on  June  11th)  met  the  assembled 


66  MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

chiefs  and  warriors  at  the  lodge  of  Jutan,  where  a 
council  was  held.  The  Colonel  informed  the  Indians 
that  the  President  of  the  United  States,  ''your  great 
father"  wished  them  to  be  at  peace  and  to  raise  corn 
and  cattle  for  the  support  of  their  families.  Deplor- 
ing the  sale  of  whiskey  to  the  Otoes,  he  said:  "All 
unlicensed  traders  found  in  your  country  will  be 
taken  and  delivered  to  the  civil  authorities,  to  be 
dealt  with  according  to  the  laws  of  the  country." 
After  a  brief  reply  by  Jutan,  presents  of  blankets, 
strouding,  knives,  and  tobacco  were  distributed 
among  the  warriors  and  chiefs. 

A  week  was  spent  here  awaiting  the  arrival  of  a 
band  of  Omahas,  with  whom  also  Colonel  Dodge 
wished  to  hold  a  council.  These  Indians,  numbering 
about  eighteen  hundred,  occupied  the  region  between 
the  Missouri  and  the  Platte  rivers.  On  the  17th  of 
June  about  fifty  of  the  principal  chiefs  and  warriors 
swam  the  Platte  River  and  arrived  near  the  camp  of 
the  dragoons.  After  extending  a  welcome  Colonel 
Dodge  caused  some  provisions  to  be  issued  to  them. 

When  the  Indians  were  assembled  Colonel  Dodge 
repeated  the  "talk"  which  he  had  made  to  the  Otoes 
a  few  days  before.  Big  Elk,  the  principal  chief  of 
the  Omahas,  replied  in  a  friendly  vein,  but  declared 
that  the  presents  spread  before  them  had  been  the 
cause  of  creating  a  great  deal  of  evil  in  the  Indian 
country.  He  was  a  man  of  sixty  years,  of  sound 
practical  common  sense,  and  with  a  knowledge  which 
convinced  him  that  the  Indians  needed  to  learn  some 
of  the  arts  of  civilization. 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  67 

The  Pawnee  village,  in  what  is  now  Hamilton 
County,  Nebraska,  was  the  next  objective  point. 
For  eighty  miles  the  march  continued  up  the  Platte 
River  over  a  rich,  alluvial,  treeless  plain  which  ap- 
peared to  be  the  old  bed  of  a  river.  Herds  of 
antelope  and  deer  varied  the  monotony  of  the  scene. 
It  was  ten  or  fifteen  miles  from  the  village  that 
Angry  Man,  the  principal  chief  of  the  Grand 
Pawnees,  met  the  dragoons.  He  at  once  tried  to 
ingratiate  himself  into  the  good  graces  of  Colonel 
Dodge  with  whom  he  had  a  long  talk. 

Arriving  at  the  Grand  Pawnee  village  on  the  21st 
of  June,  1835,  the  dragoons  were  met  by  one  hundred 
and  fifty  or  two  hundred  Indians  mounted  on  their 
best  horses  and  dressed  in  their  gayest  costume. 
The  Pawnees,  having  formed  an  extended  line,  ad- 
vanced with  full  speed  and  galloped  around  the 
detachment  two  or  three  times.  The  chiefs  then 
advanced  to  Colonel  Dodge,  and  the  pipe  of  peace 
was  passed  around  and  smoked.  Angry  Man  then 
invited  Colonel  Dodge,  with  a  number  of  the  dra- 
goons, to  a  feast  in  his  lodge.  There  they  were 
seated  around  the  fire,  and  in  strict  accordance  with 
Indian  etiquette  Colonel  Dodge  was  given  the  high- 
est scat.  After  a  meal  of  boiled  corn  was  eaten  the 
dragoons  made  a  brief  march  and  encamped  on  the 
bank  of  the  Platte. 

The  Pawnees  at  this  time  were  divided  into  four 
tribes  which  lived  in  separate  villages  and  had 
different  chiefs.  Angry  Man  was  the  chief  of  the 
Grand  Pawnees.    The  chief  of  the  Pawnee  Republics 


68       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

was  called  Blue-coat ;  the  chief  of  the  Pawnee  Loups 
was  Axe;  while  the  head  of  the  Pawnee  Tappeiges 
was  Little  Chief.  For  years  these  tribes  had  been 
waging  an  intermittent  war  with  the  Sioux  and  had 
often  returned  with  scalps  and  large  numbers  of 
horses.  They  occupied  a  rich  and  productive  coun- 
try, well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  grain  and  to 
grazing.  The  buffalo,  of  which  they  killed  large 
numbers,  furnished  their  principal  means  of  sub- 
sistence. "They  are  already  impressed  with  a  high 
opinion  of  the  power  of  the  United  States,"  writes 
the  dragoon  journalist,  ''and  it  will  not  be  difficult 
for  the  government  in  a  short  time  to  exert  a  con- 
trolling influence  over  them," 

Colonel  Dodge  now  declared  his  intention  of 
holding  a  council  with  the  different  Pawnee  tribes, 
and  runners  were  at  once  despatched  to  inform  the 
other  villages  of  his  arrival.  Repairing  with  most 
of  the  dragoon  officers  to  the  lodge  of  Angry  Man, 
Colonel  Dodge  addressed  the  assembled  chiefs  and 
warriors.  He  would  be  glad  to  make  peace  between 
them  and  their  old  enemies,  the  Arapahoes  and  the 
Cheyennes.  The  destructive  effects  of  wars  were 
pointed  out,  and  it  was  urged  that  they  devote  them- 
selves to  the  cultivation  of  corn.  ''Could  you  also 
learn  to  raise  cattle,"  he  suggested,  "you  would  be 
able  to  support  yourselves  and  families  without 
depending  upon  the  uncertainty  of  the  chase." 

To  this  advice  highly  rhetorical  but  rather 
friendly  speeches  were  made  in  turn  by  the  four 
Pawnee  chiefs.     "I  thank  you  for  treating  these 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  69 

people  so  well",  declared  Angry  Man.  "You  could 
not  have  been  blamed  if  you  had  been  more  severe. ' ' 
When  the  council  broke  up  presents  were  distributed 
by  Major  Dougherty,  and  the  Indians  appeared  well 
pleased  in  obtaining  new  blankets,  strouding,  knives, 
and  tobacco.  They  even  informed  Colonel  Dodge 
that  they  would  send  one  of  their  principal  men  with 
him  to  assist  him  in  making  peace  with  the  Chey- 
ennes  and  the  Arapahoes. 

One  hundred  and  twelve  miles  were  covered  in 
the  next  week.  Marching  up  the  Platte  River  along 
the  south  bank,  the  dragoons  passed  the  head  of 
Grand  Island  on  June  29,  1835,  where  they  were 
mustered  and  inspected.  Two  days  later  Captain 
Gantt  set  out  to  collect  the  Arickaras  who  were  sup- 
posed to  be  near  the  forks  of  the  Platte  River.  On 
the  evening  of  July  4th  the  dragoons  saw  their  first 
herd  of  buffalo. 

On  the  next  day  Captain  Gantt  returned  bringing 
the  chiefs  and  principal  warriors  of  the  Arickaras. 
"The  Arickaras",  writes  Lieutenant  Kingsbury, 
"are  considered  the  wildest  and  most  savage  tribe 
of  Indians  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  have  always 
been  characterized  by  a  want  of  faith  in  their  prom- 
ises, and  an  inveterate  hostility  to  the  whites,  killing 
all  they  could  meet.  They  are  at  war  with  most  of 
the  surrounding  nations,  and  large  numbers  of  them 
are  killed  every  year.  They  formerly  lived  on  the 
Missouri  River,  but  were  driven  from  this  country 
by  the  Sioux,  with  whom  they  had  long  been  at  war. 
.     .     .     There   are   now   about   two   thousand   two 


70       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

hundred  of  them  in  all,  numbers  of  them  having 
lately  been  killed  by  their  numerous  enemies. ' ' 

Colonel  Dodge's  speech  to  the  assembled  Aric- 
karas  was  full  of  advice  and  warning.  The  evil 
effects  of  inter-tribal  wars  were  again  pointed  out; 
the  stealing  of  horses  was  denounced ;  and  they  were 
reminded  that  several  charges  of  murder  were  held 
against  them.  After  the  friendly  nature  and  purpose 
of  the  dragoons'  expedition  had  been  explained,  the 
Colonel  delivered  the  greetings  and  the  presents 
from  the  President  of  the  United  States.  ''He  is 
mild  in  peace",  warned  the  dragoon  colonel,  "but 
terrible  in  war.  .  .  .  You  see  but  few  mounted 
men  with  me;  it  was  not  the  wish  of  your  great 
father  to  alarm  you  and  other  remote  nations  of 
Indians  with  the  appearance  of  a  large  army  which 
he  could  have  sent  here  with  as  much  ease  as  the  few 
warriors  you  see  with  me.  The  cannon  you  see  are 
small  in  comparison  with  the  large  guns  that  could 
be  sent  to  this  country." 

The  chiefs  replied  briefly  to  this  advice,  and  after 
extolling  their  past  conduct  expressed  much  friend- 
ship for  the  whites.  One  of  the  chiefs  gave  a 
hunting-shirt  finely  ornamented  with  beads  to 
Colonel  Dodge,  who  then  distributed  the  usual 
presents  among  the  Indians.  On  July  6,  1835,  the 
council  dispersed  with  many  expressions  of  thanks 
and  gratitude  from  the  Arickaras. 

Steady  marching  occupied  the  dragoons  for  the 
next  two  weeks,  during  which  they  covered  over  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the  south  fork  of  the 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  71 

Platte  River  along  its  southern  bank.  ''The  ele- 
ments of  the  scene",  writes  the  dragoon  journalist, 
"now  were  an  unbounded  prairie,  a  broad  river, 
with  innumerable  herds  of  buffalo  grazing  upon  its 
banks,  and  occasionally  a  solitary  tree  standing  in 
bold  relief  against  a  clear  blue  sky. ' ' 

Dragoon  mounts  and  the  men  were  in  excellent 
health  as  they  filed  past  charming  scenes.  Great 
herds  of  buffalo  pawed  the  short  grass  or  moved 
over  the  prairie.  Herds  of  deer,  antelope,  and  wild 
horses  quickly  retreated  before  Colonel  Dodge's 
cavalcade.  On  the  banks  of  the  river  the  troops 
gathered  bois  de  vache  and  drift  wood  for  fuel.  On 
July  15th  the  soldiers  enjoyed  a  bird's-eye  view  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  were  hailed  with  joy  by 
the  whole  command. 

Leaving  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte,  whose 
banks  the  dragoons  had  hugged  for  many  hundreds 
of  miles,  the  command  for  the  remainder  of  the 
month  of  July  changed  its  course  to  a  southerly 
direction. ^^2  Immense  herds  of  buffalo  were  again 
seen;  timber  became  more  abundant;  several  kinds 
of  wild  fruit  were  found ;  and  deer  were  numerous. 
On  the  26th  of  Jaly  they  crossed  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  the  Platte  and  the  Arkansas. 
''The  mountains  were  in  the  form  of  an  immense 
fortification  with  turrets  and  rock-crowned  battle- 
ments, and  pine  trees  along  the  covered  line  relieved 
against  a  clear  blue  sky.  The  different  passes  be- 
tween the  mountains  appeared  to  be  guarded  by 
large  terraced  watch-towers." 


72      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

On  July  30th  Colonel  Dodge's  detachment 
camped  upon  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas  River. 
There  he  learned  that  fifty  lodges  of  Arapahoes  were 
encamped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  and  that 
the  remainder  of  the  nation  with  a  large  number  of 
Cheyennes  were  hunting  buffalo  only  about  two 
days'  ride  distant.  Two  days  later  Captain  Gantt 
left  the  command  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  these 
bands  together. 

Sixty  miles  of  marching  up  the  Arkansas  River 
brought  the  dragoons  to  the  fort  of  Bent  and  St. 
Vrain  on  the  6th  of  August,  1835.  Here  Messrs. 
Bent  and  St.  Vrain  carried  on  an  extensive  trade 
with  the  Indians  in  buffalo  robes,  knives,  blankets, 
and  tobacco.  Two  villages  of  Cheyennes  were  found 
near  this  fort.  These  Indians  were  very  fond  of 
whiskey  and  would  sell  their  last  possession  to  get  a 
drink  of  it.  *'In  arranging  the  good  things  of  this 
world  in  order  of  rank,"  writes  Lieutenant  Kings- 
bury, ' '  they  say  that  whiskey  should  stand  first,  then 
tobacco,  third  guns,  fourth  horses,  and  fifth  women." 

Captain  Gantt  on  August  10th  returned  to  camp 
bringing  a  number  of  Arapahoes,  a  few  Gros  Ven- 
tres, and  two  or  three  Blackfeet.  On  the  next  day 
Colonel  Dodge  held  a  council  with  a  number  of  chiefs, 
warriors,  and  principal  men  who  represented  these 
tribes.  The  views  and  wishes  of  the  government 
were  then  fully  explained  and  once  more  the 
Colonel  advised  the  Indians  to  smoke  the  pipe  of 
peace,  to  observe  treaties,  and  to  stop  their  warfare 
against  the  whites. 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  73 

With  the  assistance  of  Colonel  Dodge  three  chiefs 
were  now  selected  for  the  three  bands  of  Cheyennes 
present  at  the  council.  The  Colonel  then  put  around 
the  neck  of  each  of  the  chiefs  a  medal,  which  he 
assured  the  Cheyennes  was  the  symbol  of  their  new 
offices.  Presents  were  next  distributed  according  to 
the  number  of  Indians  in  each  nation ;  and  then  the 
council  adjourned  with  many  expressions  of  grati- 
tude and  good  will  for  the  dragoons  and  their 
commander.  ^^^ 

Two  days  after  this  council  the  line  of  march  was 
continued  up  the  Arkansas  River.  On  August  14, 
1835,  the  dragoons  arrived  at  a  Cheyenne  village  of 
about  sixty  skin  lodges  and  held  a  council  with  the 
principal  braves.  The  next  morning  the  whole  com- 
mand was  aroused  by  sharp  firing  about  half  a  mile 
distant.  ''Supposing  this  firing  to  be  an  attack  on 
the  Cheyenne  Indians",  wrote  Colonel  Dodge,  "and 
that  this  band  might  ask  protection  from  me,  I  in- 
stantly formed  the  Dragoons  in  order  of  battle,  until 
I  could  be  informed  as  to  the  cause  of  the  firing. ' ' 

In  a  brief  time,  however,  a  band  of  about  one 
hundred  Pawnees  and  Arickaras  arrived,  explaining 
that  they  had  fired  their  guns  in  order  to  prove  their 
friendly  disposition  by  approaching  with  empty 
guns.  A  council  was  then  called  and  Colonel  Dodge, 
the  mutual  friend  of  all  three  tribes,  induced  them  to 
forget  old  scores  and  to  become  friends.  The 
Pawnees  and  the  Arickaras  received  more  than  a 
hundred  horses  as  presents  from  the  Cheyennes, 
who  in  turn  were  given  fifty  guns.     ''You  will  be 


74       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

convinced",  ran  the  Colonel's  parting  advice,  ''that 
your  true  interest  is  to  hold  each  other  strong  by 
the  hand  as  brothers  and  friends,  and  never  again  to 
stain  your  hands  by  the  blood  of  each  other." 

Although  unfamiliar  with  the  art  of  speech- 
making,  the  Cheyennes  expressed  a  wish  that 
Colonel  Dodge  tarry  several  days  in  order  that  they 
might  hunt  and  bring  him  buffalo  meat.  ' '  The  good 
effects  of  the  expedition",  writes  Lieutenant  Kings- 
bury, ''are  thus  becoming  apparent,  and  it  will 
probably  have  the  effect  to  establish  peace  among 
all  the  different  tribes  between  the  Arkansas  and  the 
Platte.  This  will  be  of  immense  advantage  to  these 
Indians,  as  they  will  thereby  have  an  extensive 
country  opened  to  them,  covered  with  innumerable 
buffalo,  where  they  can  hunt  in  safety  without  the 
fear  of  being  attacked  by  their  enemies." 

Long  daily  marches  down  the  Arkansas  were 
made  in  the  next  week  across  plains,  and  hills,  buf- 
falo grass,  and  prickly  pear.^*^'*  On  the  21st  of 
August,  1835,  the  detachment  took  the  old  Santa  Fe 
trail  where  it  crossed  the  Arkansas  River.  Lieuten- 
ant Kingsbury's  journal  is  hurried,  as  are  the 
dragoon  advances  over  the  high  barren  prairie.  No 
wood  could  be  found  and  the  soldiers  cooked  their 
food  over  the  hot  fires  of  buffalo  dung.  Arriving  at 
the  Pawnee  Fork  the  command  halted  for  a  day  in 
order  to  kill  buffalo  to  provision  them  to  Fort 
Leavenworth.  The  horses  were  made  to  swim  the 
swollen  stream,  while  the  baggage  was  transported 
across  in  buffalo  skins. 


TO  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  75 

For  forty  or  fifty  miles  the  line  of  march  bore 
down  the  Arkansas  River.  Late  in  August  the 
course  of  march  veered  to  the  north.  Forced 
marches  were  the  only  incidents  of  note  during  the 
next  week.  '' Continued  the  march",  concludes 
Lieutenant  Kingsbury's  narrative  of  this  expedi- 
tion. "Crossed  the  Hundred-and-ten  mile  creek, 
and  entered  upon  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
Kansas  and  Osage  rivers;  passed  Round  and  Elm 
Groves,  and  arrived  at  the  crossing  of  the  Kansas, 
at  Dunlap's  Ferry,  on  the  15th;  crossed  the  river 
and  on  the  16th  arrived  at  Fort  Leavenworth." 

High  praise  was  accorded  to  the  whole  command 
for  the  success  of  the  expedition,  which  Brigadier 
General  Edmund  P.  Gaines  regarded  as  extraordi- 
nary and  unprecedented.  The  general  urged  that 
"a  sword  [be]  given  to  Colonel  Dodge,  a  brace  of 
pistols  to  each  one  of  his  commissioned  officers,  and 
a  month's  extra  pay  to  each  one  of  the  non-commis- 
sioned officers  and  soldiers  who  accompanied  him". 
He  believed .  that  the  Indian  tribes  had  been  judi- 
ciously impressed  with  the  justice,  magnanimity, 
humanity,  and  power  of  the  government,  with  no 
loss  of  life  except  that  of  one  dragoon.^*^^  This  suc- 
cess Gaines  believed  to  be  due  to  the  ''very  great 
vigilance,  care,  and  prudence,  on  the  part  of  the 
colonel  and  his  officers,  and  constant  attention, 
obedience,  and  fidelity  on  the  part  of  the  non-com- 
missioned officers  and  soldiers." 


VII 

THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER 

1837-1840 

For  the  four  years  beginning  in  1837  the  activities 
of  the  First  Regiment  of  Dragoons  are  interwoven 
with  the  laying  out  of  a  western  zone  for  Indian 
occupation  and  the  improvement  of  a  western  fron- 
tier line  of  military  defense.  These  tasks  were  not 
new,  for  both  had  been  performed  in  the  older 
States;  and  the  Indian  had  been  anvil  rather  than 
hammer  during  the  years  when  the  steady  forces  of 
settlement  drove  the  tribes  westward. 

The  removal  of  the  Indians  to  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase had  been  a  policy  of  the  government  since 
Secretary  of  War  Calhoun's  report  in  1825.  The 
treaties  at  Prairie  du  Chien  in  1825  and  1830,  and 
the  Black  Hawk  Purchase  treaty  of  1832,  are  epochal 
in  the  readjustment  of  the  Indian  frontiers. ^^"^ 
Gradually  the  pressure  of  population  had  forced  the 
Indian  from  the  northern  and  southern  areas  of 
occupation  until  an  irregular  but  shifting  line  from 
north  to  south  marked  the  boundary  between  the 
two  races. 

A  glance  at  the  location  and  number  of  Indians 
for  1837  reveals  the  magnitude  of  this  policy  of 

76 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         77 

removal.  East  of  the  Mississippi  there  were  49,365 
Indians  of  whom  36,950  were  under  treaty  stipula- 
tions to  remove  to  the  west  of  the  river.  The  num- 
ber in  the  indigenous  tribes  within  striking  distance 
of  the  western  frontier  was  231,806.  The  Indians 
who  had  emigrated  from  the  east  to  the  west  of  the 
Mississippi  totalled  51,327.  Among  these  332,498 
Indians,  it  was  estimated,  there  was  a  total  fighting 
strength  of  66,499  warriors. ^*^'^  A  map  for  this  year 
shows  an  irregular  zone  of  Indian  lands  to  the  west 
of  the  Mississippi.  North  of  the  Red  River  are 
shown  in  order  the  Choctaws,  Seminoles,  Creeks, 
Cherokees,  and  Osages.  Farther  northward  were 
the  Shawnees,  Kansas,  Delawares,  Kickapoos,  Iowa, 
Otoes,  Omahas,  Pawnees,  and  Potawatomi.  But 
toward  the  east  of  this  belt  of  occupation  there  were 
still  huge  peninsulas  and  islands  of  Indian  lands, 
the  title  to  which  was  being  gradually  extin- 
guished.^^^  The  record  of  this  policy  of  removal  is 
an  epitome  of  the  story  of  the  Indian,  the  soldier, 
the  surveyor,  and  the  settler. 

To  these  numbers  the  weakness  of  the  military 
protection  for  the  westward-moving  settlements  in 
1837  stood  in  marked  contrast.  A  thin  line  of  posts 
extended  from  Port  Snelling  on  the  Mississippi  to 
Camp  Sabine  in  Louisiana.  About  eighteen  hundred 
troops,  including  six  hundred  and  twenty-six  dra- 
goons, and  shifting  from  one  post  to  another,  per- 
formed field  and  garrison  duties  and  constituted  the 
only  Federal  force.  But  before  the  close  of  1837  the 
removal  of  four  garrisons  left  only  eight  establish- 
ments with  any  troops. ^^^ 


MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 


Year  after  year  military  authorities  had  pointed 
out  the  weakness  of  this  frontier  force  and  had 
urged  that  it  be  strengthened.  A  rather  elaborate 
plan  for  a  stronger  western  military  frontier  was 
presented  late  in  1837.^^*^  This  contemplated  a  line 
of  exterior  posts  projected  into  the  Indian  country 
beyond  the  existing  cessions  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
pressing or  overawing  intertribal  hostilities  or 
uprisings  against  the  settlements.  Likewise  an 
interior  line  of  posts  was  considered  which  might 
furnish  places  of  refuge  during  special  danger  or 
alarms  and  depots  for  arms  and  supplies.  Efforts 
to  realize  the  execution  of  this  plan  constitute  a 
considerable  part  of  the  history  of  the  western  mili- 
tary frontier  for  the  next  four  years. 

Colonel  Kearny  had  also  urged  that  the  limits  of 
the  western  frontier  should  be  definitely  settled.  He 
suggested  that  there  should  be  one  regiment  of 
infantry  or  artillery  and  one  of  dragoons  for  the 
frontier  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri 
rivers.  An  equal  force  should  protect  the  frontier 
between  the  Missouri  and  the  Osage  rivers ;  and  two 
regiments  of  infantry  or  artillery  and  one  of  dra- 
goons should  be  placed  between  the  Osage  and  Red 
rivers.  Such  a  force  for  a  frontier  of  a  thousand 
miles  he  regarded  as  a  reasonable  estimate.^^^ 

Owing  to  desertions  and  the  expirations  of  en- 
listments the  regiment  of  dragoons  seldom  possessed 
its  full  quota  of  men.  Captain  Sumner  was  usually 
detailed  upon  recruiting  service  at  Carlisle,  Penn- 
sylvania, and  there  new  men  were  secured  to  fill  the 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         79 

ever-recurring  vacancies  in  the  dragoon  ranks.  In 
1838  six  companies  under  Colonel  Kearny  were 
stationed  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  four  companies 
were  quartered  at  Fort  Gibson  under  General 
Arbuckle.  Fort  Smith  was  occupied  by  a  garrison 
in  July,  1838 ;  but  Fort  Coffee,  likewise  in  Arkansas, 
was  abandoned  a  few  months  later.^^^ 

Additional  forts,  urged  the  Secretary  of  War  in 
1838,^^^  should  be  constructed  on  the  western  fron- 
tier, the  existing  posts  should  be  enlarged  and 
strengthened,  and  all  stations  should  then  be  con- 
nected by  military  roads  perpendicular  to  the  line 
of  defense.  Jefferson  Barracks  could  be  made  a 
center  around  which  the  militia  of  the  various  States 
might  rally.  ''The  sparse  population  of  the  West- 
ern frontier,"  continued  Secretary  Poinsett,  "and 
the  number,  character,  and  proximity  of  the  enemy 
we  have  to  guard  against  in  that  quarter,  will  re- 
quire that  the  garrisons  of  the  several  posts  should 
be  stronger  than  on  the  maritime  or  Northern  and 
Eastern  frontiers." 

But  few  field  movements  seem  to  have  been  made 
by  the  dragoons  in  1838.  Early  in  that  year  Colonel 
Kearny  left  Fort  Leavenworth  and  steamed  up  the 
Missouri  River  with  a  force  of  dragoons  on  board 
the  ''Antelope".  Alarmed,  perhaps,  by  rumors  of 
inter-tribal  hostilities,  Colonel  Kearny  set  to  work 
erecting  barracks  and  a  block-house  twenty-four 
feet  square.  This  rude  encampment  was  known  as 
"Camp  Kearney  near  Council  Bluffs",  but  was  soon 
transferred  to  the  Jesuits  for  their  missionary  head- 
quarters among  the  Potawatomi.^^* 


80  INARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Later  in  the  year  other  rumors  of  Indian  councils 
and  uprisings  among  the  Cherokees  near  Fort 
Gibson  induced  General  Gaines  to  set  in  motion  a 
force  of  about  10,000  men.^^^  The  militia  was  sum- 
moned and  soon  the  troops  from  Fort  Leavenworth 
and  Jefferson  Barracks  were  on  their  way  to  the 
scene  of  an  anticipated  Indian  war.  "But  being 
informed,  while  on  the  way  thither,  that  the  object 
of  the  meeting  was  of  a  pacific  character,  he  ordered 
the  troops  back  to  their  stations." 

Surveys  for  a  military  road  on  the  western  fron- 
tier were  begun  this  year.  The  northern  section  ran 
from  Fort  Snelling  to  Fort  Leavenworth;  on  the 
middle  section,  extending  from  that  point  to  Fort 
Smith,  construction  work  had  begun;  while  the 
southern  and  shortest  section  connected  Fort  Tow- 
son  and  Fort  Smith.  At  the  latter  station  work  had 
been  delayed  by  the  high  waters  of  the  Arkansas 
Eiver,  but  at  Fort  Leavenworth  the  quarters  had 
been  repaired  and  enlarged  and  stables  had  been 
erected  for  the  dragoon  horses. ^^*^ 

Work  on  the  military  roads  continued  in  1839, 
and  in  March  of  that  year  Congress  appropriated 
over  $52,000  for  the  ''survej'ing  and  opening  of  the 
western  frontier  military  road."^^'  The  southern 
section,  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  length, 
was  completed  that  year  and  Captain  Joseph  Bonnell 
wdth  fourteen  oxen  traversed  its  entire  length  in 
April  and  May  in  eight  and  one-half  days.  The 
route  was  diversified  by  severe  ascents,  pretty 
prairies,  and  steep  hills. ^^^     Seventy-two  miles  of 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         81 

the  middle  section  were  completed  and  about  two 
hundred  miles  were  left  for  future  construction. 
But  upon  the  road  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort 
Snelling,  advised  the  quartermaster  general,  neither 
money  nor  labor  should  be  expended  because  the 
whole  country  was  an  open  prairie  that  could  easily 
be  travelled  in  all  directions. ^^^ 

But  little  progress  was  made  on  the  barracks  at 
Fort  Smith  and  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  although  a 
considerable  sum  was  appropriated  for  work  on  the 
western  frontier  for  that  year.  A  force  of  dragoons 
under  Lieutenant  Colonel  Mason  was  sent  to  com- 
mence the  erection  of  Fort  Wayne  —  a  new  post 
on  Illinois  Creek  about  half  way  between  Fort 
Gibson  and  Fort  Smith.  Four  additional  posts 
should  be  established,  urged  the  quartermaster 
general.  ''The  effect  of  those  works,  with  the  fre- 
quent movement  of  bodies  of  mounted  men  on  the 
road  between  them,  would  be  to  intimidate  the  In- 
dians inclined  to  become  hostile,  and  inspire  those 
disposed  to  be  friendly,  as  well  as  our  own  citizens, 
with  confidence.  Should  war  occur,  they  would  con- 
stitute the  proper  base  of  operations,  each  post 
forming  a  rallying  point  for  the  militia  and  volun- 
teers in  its  rear,  and  for  such  friendly  Indians  as 
might  be  disposed  to  join  our  standard. "  ^^*^ 

Field  campaigns  this  year  gave  several  com- 
panies of  the  dragoons  relief  from  their  garrison 
duties.  Two  squadrons  furnished  in  the  spring  an 
escort  to  a  caravan  of  traders  bound  for  Santa  Fe. 
Later  in  the  year  five  companies  of  dragoons  were 


82       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

sent  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Gibson,  where 
rumors  of  Cherokee  uprisings  against  the  settlers 
had  been  persistent.  In  July  a  company  of  dragoons 
journeyed  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Bellevue  with 
some  Omaha  Indians,  formerly  captured  by  the 
Sauks,  and  delivered  them  to  their  tribe.  Three  un- 
lucky dragoons  were  drowned  in  crossing  the  Platte 
Eiver.121 

From  the  land  of  the  Otoes  came  rumors  of  the 
unfriendly  disposition  of  those  Indians,  who  were 
manifesting  an  arrogant  attitude  toward  the  gov- 
ernment employees  of  the  agency  at  Council  Bluffs. 
Colonel  Kearny  immediately  mustered  about  two 
hundred  men  under  Captains  Boone  and  Allen,  and 
on  September  5,  1839,  set  out  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth for  another  field  campaign. 

''Following  generally  the  old  'Council  Bluffs' 
road,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri  river,"  wrote 
a  member  of  this  detachment,^^^  "the  troops  moved 
leisurely  onward,  over  a  country  luxuriant,  pictur- 
esque, and  at  some  points  beautiful ;  the  monotony  of 
the  march  being  varied  by,  at  one  time,  the  abrupt 
banks  of  some  prairie  stream,  to  allow  the  passage 
of  the  wagons,  and,  at  another,  of  turning  from  a 
direct  course  to  head  some  hollow  whose  marshy 
bottom  would  bear  neither  man  nor  horse. ' ' 

Wolf  Creek,  the  Great  and  Little  Nemaha  rivers, 
and  other  streams  were  crossed  in  turn,  and  soon 
the  dragoon  horses  were  wading  through  the  low 
waters  and  quicksands  of  the  Platte  River.  On  the 
low  sandy  beach  of  the  stream  they  discovered  the 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         83 

skeleton  of  one  of  the  three  dragoons  who  had  been 
drowned  there  a  few  months  before.  The  now  use- 
less sword,  belt,  and  cartridge-box  lying  near  the 
owner's  remains  and  marked  by  the  letter  of  his 
company,  identified  the  unfortunate  dragoon.  The 
skeleton  was  carefully  placed  in  a  box,  conveyed  to 
camp,  and  in  the  evening  buried  with  the  honors  of 
war. 

The  Oto  and  Missouri  tribes,  numbering  less  than 
one  thousand  souls,  lived  about  midway  between 
Bellevue  and  the  Platte  River  upon  the  edge  of  a 
level  plain  skirted  by  timber.  Their  condition  was 
rather  deplorable :  game  was  decreasing ;  the  culti- 
vation of  the  corn  crop  was  only  moderately  success- 
ful; there  were  charges  of  bad  faith  in  treaty- 
making;  and  the  whiskey-peddlers  from  the  south 
flourished.  The  attempts  to  civilize  these  Indians, 
the  Indian  Agent,  Joseph  V.  Hamilton  believed,  had 
not  produced  any  beneficial  effects. ^-^ 

A  council  to  be  held  on  the  16th  of  September 
was  agreed  upon.  ''After  a  delay  of  unusual  length, 
though  at  no  time  remarkable  for  punctuality," 
relates  one  dragoon,  ''a  long  string  of  warriors,  boys 
and  women,  gave  notice  of  the  approach  of  the 
nation."  The  motley  crowd  was  halted  by  the  dra- 
goon sentinels  and  about  twenty  of  the  chief  men 
then  dismounted,  approached  the  encampment,  and 
took  their  seats  in  the  council.  Upon  the  invitation 
of  the  Colonel  the  members  of  the  nation  came  for- 
ward and  ranged  themselves  in  concentric  circles 
about  the  council  fire.    ''Observing  that,  contrary  to 


84      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

custom,  the  Indians  had  come  into  council  armed,  the 
commanding  officer  refused  to  have  anything  to  say 
to  them  while  thus  equipped,  and  directed  them  to 
lay  aside  weapons  which  he  neither  feared  nor  had 
come  to  contend  against.  This  being  done  Col. 
Kearny  addressed  the  council." 

The  dragoon  commander  declared  that  he  repre- 
sented the  Great  Father  and  that  he  was  glad  to  see 
the  Indians.  Reports  of  misconduct  had  come  to  him 
and  he  now  demanded  that  the  offenders  be  given  up 
to  be  publicly  chastised,  since  the  whole  nation  could 
not  be  punished.  Three  young  braves  were  there- 
upon surrendered  and  some  Pawnee  chiefs  present 
bitterly  reproached  them  for  their  misdeeds. 

Here  Agent  Hamilton  arose,  requesting  that  the 
prisoners  be  not  publicly  whipped  and  promising  to 
answer  for  the  future  conduct  of  the  prisoners.  To 
this  the  Colonel  finally  yielded  and  Hamilton  ex- 
plained to  the  Otoes  that  he  had  pledged  himself  to 
Kearny  for  their  good  conduct  hereafter.  It  was 
with  great  relief  that  the  council  dissolved  and  the 
firm  and  courageous  attitude  of  the  dragoon  com- 
mander had  not  been  without  effect  upon  these 
savage  minds. 

On  September  17th  the  dragoons  swam  their 
horses  over  the  Missouri  River  and  on  that  night  the 
detachment  encamped  in  one  of  the  Potawatomi 
villages.  Twelve  chiefs  having  appeared.  Colonel 
Kearny  discussed  with  them  the  plan  of  a  new  treaty 
which  contemplated  an  exchange  of  their  present 
lands  for  others  south  of  the  Missouri  River.    The 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         85 

Colonel  likewise  advised  them  to  inspect  these  lands 
with  a  view  to  their  future  occupancy.  The  return 
march  was  without  incident  and  the  two  companies 
arrived  at  Fort  Leavenworth  on  September  25th. 

By  the  year  1840  the  fringe  of  settlement  in  the 
Louisiana  Purchase  included  the  present  States  of 
Louisiana,  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  the  eastern  part 
of  the  Territory  of  Iowa;  and  the  western  military 
frontier  coincided  roughly  with  its  western  limits.^-'* 
Although  about  41,000  Indians  had  been  removed  to 
the  west  of  the  Mississippi  River  since  1836,  the  mili- 
tary frontier  of  1840  was  even  weaker  than  usual. 
The  twenty-six  companies  in  the  nine  posts  aggre- 
gated in  December  only  about  sixteen  hundred  men, 
A  squadron  of  dragoons  had  been  sent  to  reinforce 
Brigadier  General  George  M.  Brooke  at  Fort  Craw- 
ford on  the  Mississippi,  five  companies  remained  at 
Fort  Leavenworth  for  garrison  duty,  while  Captain 
J.  P.  Simonton  with  forty-four  dragoons  had  been 
spending  some  time  in  fruitless  efforts  to  construct 
a  fort  on  the  unhealthful  site  chosen  for  Fort 
Wayne.^^^ 

Work  commenced  at  Fort  Wayne  had  been  aban- 
doned in  June,  1839,  because  of  the  unhealthfulness 
of  the  site.  Four  companies  of  dragoons  and  one  of 
infantry  had  been  quartered  in  barracks  situated  on 
a  small  stream  near  Illinois  Creek,  and  in  the 
summer  of  that  year  the  sick  report  ranged  from 
sixty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty. ^-^  A  new  site, 
however,  was  chosen  about  equidistant  from  Fort 
Gibson  and  Fort  Smith,  and  late  in  this  year  a  de- 


86       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

tacliment  of  seventy  dragoons  under  Captain  E.  B. 
Birdsall  was  steaming  up  the  Arkansas  River  on 
the  "Trident"  to  reinforce  the  garrison  at  Fort 
Wayne.  ^-^ 

Mechanics,  citizens,  carpenters,  and  soldiers 
joined  in  the  work  of  erecting  temporary  quarters 
before  the  approach  of  winter.  Although  there  was 
no  finished  lumber  or  saw-mill,  produce  for  the  gar- 
rison was  cheap  and  plenty.  '^Whiskej^,  too,  is 
awfully  abundant,  and  a  great  drawback",  described 
an  observer.  "The  soldiers  will  drink  it;  and  it  is 
most  pernicious  in  its  effects,  being  of  the  worst 
possible  kind,  and  sold  very  cheap.  "^^^ 

Appropriations  for  the  further  erection  of  bar- 
racks at  Fort  Wayne,  Fort  Smith,  and  Fort  Leaven- 
worth aggregated  $100,000  in  1840.^-*^  Provisions, 
too,  constituted  a  large  expense  in  maintaining  the 
various  garrisons.  The  commissary-general's  ad- 
vertisement for  bids  on  goods  to  be  delivered  at  Fort 
Smith  in  1840  called  for  the  following  articles :  1000 
barrels  of  pork;  2000  barrels  of  fresh,  superfine 
flour;  900  bushels  of  new  white  field  beans;  400 
bushels  of  good,  clean,  dry  salt ;  and  15,000  pounds 
of  good,  hard  soap.^^^ 

The  year  1840  seems  to  have  been  one  of  peace  on 
the  western  frontier.  In  March  news  came  to  Fort 
Leavenworth  that  the  Otoes  had  crossed  over  into 
Missouri  and  were  killing  stock  and  insulting  or 
threatening  the  settlers.  Captain  Boone  made  a 
quick  march  with  two  companies  of  dragoons  on 
March  24th,  and  soon  the  valley  of  the  Nishnabotna 


THE  WESTERN  MILITARY  FRONTIER         87 

was  again  peaceful. ^^^  In  September  Colonel  Kearny 
led  a  party  of  his  dragoons  among  the  Potawatomi. 
As  the  result  of  a  council  which  was  held  a  better 
feeling  was  established  between  them  and  the  neigh- 
boring tribes.  ^^^ 


VIII 

PATROL  AND  GARRISON  DUTIES  IN  IOWA 
TERRITORY  133 

Besides  an  exterior  line  of  garrisons  the  erection  of 
a  number  of  interior,  temporary  posts  in  the  West 
became  a  policy  of  frontier  military  defense  as  early 
as  1840.  The  maintenance  of  treaties  and  order 
among  the  settlers  as  well  as  among  the  Indians 
necessitated  the  presence  of  troops  in  immediate 
contact  with  the  tribes.  It  was  in  the  Territory  of 
Iowa  where  such  a  force  was  on  duty  at  four  posts 
—  not  to  conduct  a  war  or  to  repel  invasions  but  to 
keep  watch  over  the  Indian  traders,  the  fur  com- 
panies, the  coming  and  departing  Indians,  and  to 
cooperate  with  resident  Indian  agents. 

Between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Des  Moines 
rivers  in  the  Territory  of  Iowa  a  rectangular  strip  of 
land  forty  miles  wide  had  been  ceded  by  the  Sac  and 
Fox  and  Sioux  tribes  as  early  as  1830.  Two  years 
later  the  Winnebagoes  ceded  all  their  lands  east  of 
the  Mississippi  and,  after  June,  1833,  agreed  to 
occupy  this  strip,  known  as  the  Neutral  Ground. 
But  loath  to  leave  the  homes  of  their  ancestors  the 
Winnebagoes  migrated  slowly ;  and  so  another  treaty 
was  negotiated  in  1837.    It  was  not  until  about  June, 

88 


IN  IOWA  TERRITORY  89 

1840,  however,  that  the  last  band,  diseased  in  body 
and  wounded  in  spirit,  settled  upon  the  new  habitat 
chosen  for  the  tribe. ^^"* 

It  became  the  duty  of  the  government  to  provide 
military  protection  for  these  weak  villages,  sur- 
rounded as  they  were  by  warlike  neighbors  and 
inclined  to  rove  beyond  the  limits  of  their  reserva- 
tion. In  May,  1840,  a  company  of  eighty-two  men 
from  Fort  Crawford  encamped  within  the  reserva- 
tion on  Turkey  Eiver.  The  next  year  this  encamp- 
ment was  given  the  name  of  Fort  Atkinson.  On 
June  24th  the  dragoons  of  Company  B  arrived  at  the 
post  and  were  quartered  in  barracks  erected  that 
year.  It  was  advised,  however,  that  heavy  expendi- 
tures on  the  works  be  not  made  because  the  pressure 
from  the  settlements  would  soon  drive  the  Indians 
farther  north  or  south.  Repairing  and  construction 
continued  in  1842,  a  magazine,  stables,  and  picket 
works  being  completed.^^^ 

Barrack  life  at  Fort  Atkinson  disclosed  to  the 
dragoons  a  sad  picture  of  their  2183  wards.  A  con- 
quered race  physically,  intellectually,  and  morally, 
the  Winnebagoes  showed  little  interest  in  the  sub- 
agency  mill  and  farm  intended  for  their  benefit. 
Whiskey  was  obtained  from  places  nearly  two  hun- 
dred miles  distant,  and  '*  scenes  of  wretchedness, 
bloodshed,  and  murder,  are  transpiring  so  fre- 
quently in  their  drunken  frolics,  that  they  have 
ceased  to  be  objects  of  wonder  and  attention.  "^^^ 
Hundreds  joined  the  sub-agent's  temperance  society, 
but  soon  they  were  drinking  more  than  before. 


90       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Patrol  duty  often  took  the  dragoons  from  the 
fort  upon  distant  tours.  Upon  the  requisitions  of 
Governor  John  Chambers  of  Iowa  Territory  detach- 
ments were  sent  to  remove  squatters  and  other 
intruders  from  the  Sac  and  Fox  lands  to  the  south 
and  to  prevent  their  return.  Not  a  few  pioneers 
from  the  eastern  part  of  the  Territory  were  unable 
to  refrain  from  unlawfully  settling  upon  the  beauti- 
ful Indian  lands  or  from  staking  out  claims,  survey- 
ing, or  marking  boundaries  for  future  locations. 

About  the  year  1841  the  dragoons,  discovering 
that  Leroy  C.  Evans  had  made  a  claim  on  the  Indian 
lands  (near  the  present  town  of  Bloomfield  in  Davis 
County),  set  fire  to  his  cabin  and  fencing.  Nearby 
another  squatter  named  Culver  planted  in  the  season 
of  1841  a  fine  crop  of  corn,  beans,  and  other  veg- 
etables with  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  profitable 
harvest.  But  in  the  fall  a  detachment  of  the  dra- 
goons swooped  down  upon  his  claim,  burned  his 
house,  and  destroyed  his  crops.  In  Wapello  County, 
also,  James  Jordan  and  others  squatted  upon  the 
Sac  and  Fox  lands, ^^^  disregarding  the  warnings  of 
the  Indian  Agent,  John  Beach.  A  force  of  dragoons 
under  Lieutenant  C.  F.  Ruff  appeared.  The  squat- 
ters were  allowed  to  remove  their  household  goods; 
but  their  fences  and  homes  soon  disappeared  in 
smoke  and  flame. 

Forty-four  dragoons  of  Company  I  under  Cap- 
tain Allen,  after  a  long  overland  journey  from  Fort 
Leavenworth,  arrived  at  Fort  Atkinson  on  August  7, 
1842.    So  urgent  had  become  the  need  of  a  military 


IN  IOWA  TERRITORY  91 

force  among  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  that  Captain  Allen 
was  soon  on  his  way  to  the  agency  where  he  went 
into  quarters.  Here  he  was  joined  a  few  months 
later  by  Lieutenant  William  N.  Grier  and  eighteen 
other  dragoons.  Such  was  the  force  at  the  ''Sac  and 
Fox  Agency",  otherwise  known  as  Fort  Sanford, 
until  its  abandonment  on  May  17, 1843.^^^ 

No  other  point  upon  the  Indian  frontier,  urged 
Agent  Beach,  was  more  in  need  of  a  permanent  mili- 
tary force.^^*'  ''Within  a  period  of  less  than  two 
years,  it  has  been  necessary  three  times  to  call  for  a 
detachment,  whose  march  on  each  occasion  has  been 
attended  with  much  expense  and  inconvenience; 
while  requisition  for  another  to  attend  the  approach- 
ing payment  has  been  sent.  No  obstruction,  no 
means  of  prevention,  here  exist  to  the  continual 
passage  to  and  fro  in  the  Indian  country  of  the  most 
lawless  and  desperate  characters,  who  can  at  any 
time  commit  outrages  against  order,  morality,  and 
the  laws,  with  perfect  impunity." 

On  September  17,  1841,  Lieutenant  Thomas 
McCrate's  fifty  dragoons  encamped  at  Iowa  City, 
and  in  the  next  month  witnessed  the  unsuccessful 
negotiations  in  which  Governor  Chambers  attempted 
to  induce  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  to  cede  their  lands  in 
Iowa  Territory. ^^^  A  year  later  when  the  treaty 
was  consummated  a  dragoon  force  witnessed  an 
equally  picturesque  scene.  The  savage  garb  of  thou- 
sands of  Indians  stood  in  contrast  to  the  simple 
dress  of  the  pioneers  and  especially  to  the  brilliant 
uniforms  of  the  dragoon  officers.    There  were  solemn 


92       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

deliberations,  and  also  Indian  yells  making  the 
October  nights  hideous.  Squads  of  dragoons  kept 
from  the  council  the  curious  and  hopeful  onlookers ; 
and  Captain  Allen  and  Lieutenant  Euff  in  witnessing 
the  treaty  could  well  imagine  the  tide  of  settlement 
that  was  soon  to  follow. ^^^ 

Eight  rude  log  cabins,  then  only  recently  the 
establishments  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
sheltered  the  dragoons  during  the  severe  and  linger- 
ing winter  of  1842-1843.  Two  other  huts  for  the 
officers  and  some  stables  completed  the  camp.  From 
Fairfield,  a  little  village  twenty-one  miles  to  the  east, 
a  weekly  express  brought  mail  for  the  dragoons 
which  no  doubt  furnished  a  welcome  break  in  the 
monotony  of  almost  daily  visits  of  Indians,  govern- 
ment agents,  and  impatient  settlers. 

Social  life  at  the  agency  could  not  have  been 
very  gay  to  the  dragoon  officers  still  bearing  the 
memories  of  balls  at  West  Point.  Ladies  were  few 
and  settlements  were  widely  separated;  but  at  the 
home  of  the  Indian  interpreter,  Josiah  Smart,  and 
his  wife  hospitality  was  generous  and  delightful. 
On  February  22,  1843,  farm  wagons  and  horses 
bearing  the  pioneer  folk  were  on  their  way  to  Fair- 
field, where  Jefferson  County  had  gathered  its 
beauty  and  its  chivalry.  Handsomely  attired  in  their 
uniforms.  Captain  Allen  and  his  subordinates  shone 
conspicuously  as  cotillion  after  cotillion  carried  the 
festivities  far  into  the  early  hours  of  the  morning. ^"^^ 

On  the  far  western  frontier,  meanwhile,  five  com- 
panies had  made  an  expedition  from  Fort  Leaven- 


IN  IOWA  TERRITORY  93 

worth  to  the  Arkansas  River.  Fort  Wayne,  after  a 
checkered  and  inglorious  record,  was  finally  aban- 
doned on  May  26, 1842.  Two  troops  of  dragoons  and 
also  a  company  of  infantry  in  the  same  month 
erected  Fort  Scott  in  the  present  State  of  Kansas; 
while  Fort  Croghan  was  established  as  a  temporary 
post  on  the  last  day  of  this  month.^^^  These  with  a 
few  other  transfers  constituted  the  principal  opera- 
tions on  the  western  frontier  in  this  year. 

Fort  Croghan,  first  called  "Camp  Fenwick"  and 
located  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  River  near 
the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Council  Bluffs,  had 
been  established  by  Captain  Burgwin,  who  had 
ascended  the  river  on  a  steamboat  with  sixty  or  sev- 
enty dragoons  from  Fort  Leavenworth.^'*'*  It  was 
situated  in  the  Council  Bluffs  sub-agency,  and  the 
troops  stationed  there  were  to  prevent  hostilities 
between  the  Potawatomi  and  the  Sioux,  to  cooperate 
with  the  officials  in  enforcing  the  law  and  regulations 
against  the  whiskey  traffic,  and  perhaps  to  preserve 
order  at  the  time  of  the  payment  of  the  Indian 
annuities. 

Contrasted  to  the  Indian  poverty  was  the  abun- 
dance of  bird  and  animal  life  surrounding  the 
dragoon  encampment.  Magpies,  starlings,  wrens, 
cowbirds,  hawks,  orioles,  and  various  kinds  of  black- 
birds were  plentiful;  w^hile  on  the  streams  were 
ducks,  geese,  and  stately  herons  and  pelicans.  Deer 
sometimes  scampered  over  the  prairies,  and  wolves 
prowled  about  the  camp.  In  the  month  of  July  a 
hunting  expedition  of  twenty  Indians  and  twenty 


94      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

dragoons  killed  ten  elk,  fifty-one  buffalo,  and  one 
hundred  and  four  deer  within  eighty  miles  of  the 
encampment.  ^^^ 

John  James  Audubon,  the  naturalist,  who  came 
up  the  Missouri  River  on  the  "Omega",  a  boat  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  has  left  some  glimpses 
of  the  dragoons  at  Fort  Croghan  as  they  appeared 
in  May,  1843.  A  few  dragoon  carbine  shots  in  front 
of  the  "Omega"  induced  the  captain  to  anchor  his 
craft,  and  an  officer  then  announced  his  intention  to 
search  the  vessel  for  smuggled  liquor.  Audubon  at 
once  secured  a  dragoon  horse  and  rode  out  to  visit 
Captain  Burgwin  at  the  camp.  The  old  barracks 
and  parade-ground,  he  was  told,  had  been  inundated 
by  a  freshet  and  the  tents  had  then  been  pitched 
four  miles  farther  away.  Later  in  the  day  the  dra- 
goon officers  returned  the  visit,  and  on  board  the 
"Omega"  were  regaled  with  luncheon  and  liquor.^'**' 
The  search  was  then  made ;  but  the  delay  had  enabled 
the  captain  to  outwit  the  dragoon  inspector,  and 
soon  the  boat  with  its  load  of  liquor  was  safely  on 
its  way.^^^ 

A  fourth  post  in  Iowa  Territory  to  be  occupied 
by  a  dragoon  force  was  Fort  Des  Moines  at  the 
junction  of  the  Des  Moines  and  the  Raccoon  rivers. ^^^ 
It  may  be  recalled  that  the  Sac  and  Fox  treaty  of 
1842  permitted  the  Indians  to  reside  for  three  years 
in  the  west  half  of  the  area  then  ceded.  Captain 
Allen  visited  the  site  soon  after  the  treaty  and  sub- 
mitted an  elaborate  report  which  urged  that  a  fort 
and  garrison  be  established  to  protect  the  Indians  in 


IN  IOWA  TERRITORY  95 

their  treaty  rights  while  they  resided  on  the  cession. 
Orders  to  constrnct  the  fort  were  issued  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1843,  and  in  the  spring  the  dragoons  forsook 
the  Sac  and  Fox  Agency  and  removed  to  the  new 
site.  The  steamer  "Agatha"  labored  up  the  Des 
Moines  Eiver,  carrying  supplies  for  the  new  post 
from  St.  Louis,  and  a  keel-boat  brought  up  some 
property  from  the  Sac  and  Fox  Agency.  By  May 
21st  about  fifty  dragoons  and  about  forty-five  infan- 
trymen had  arrived  at  the  site,  where  a  store-house, 
barracks,  a  hospital,  officers'  quarters,  the  sutler's 
house,  corrals,  and  stables  soon  rose  above  the  plain 
on  which  is  now  located  the  capital  of  Iowa. 

For  nearly  three  years  this  post  was  a  patrol 
center  among  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  and  the  small 
garrison  was  usually  on  active  duty.  Vagabond 
speculators  and  traders  hovered  about  the  post  and 
the  agency.  Again  Agent  Beach  bitterly  denounced 
the  whiskey  traffic  and  those  harpies  who  were  prey- 
ing upon  his  wards  settled  within  sight  of  the  agency 
and  upon  the  Skunk  River  —  all  too  near  the  whites. 

Even  Captain  Allen  was  accused  of  treating  the 
Indians  to  whiskey;  and  at  the  garrison  there  were 
rumors  that  both  the  dragoon  captain  and  the  sutler 
had  a  particular  object  in  getting  the  Indians  drunk 
just  when  the  annuities  were  paid.  One  soldier,  it  is 
said,  passed  the  jug  to  the  Indians  in  the  presence  of 
some  of  the  officers.  ''It  is  a  fact  that  the  location 
of  Fort  Des  Moines  among  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians 
(under  its  present  commander,)  for  the  last  two 
years,  has  corrupted  them  more  and  lowered  them 


96       MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

deeper  in  the  scale  of  vice  and  degradation,  than  all 
their  intercourse  with  the  whites  for  the  ten  years 
previous.  "^•^^ 

Squatters  impatient  for  the  termination  of  the 
treaty  were  crowding  upon  the  boundary  line  and 
both  tact  and  firmness  were  necessary  to  prevent 
hostile  acts.  In  the  winter  of  1844  a  band  of  Foxes 
strayed  back  to  their  old  homes  on  the  Iowa  River 
where  they  became  so  troublesome  to  the  settlers 
that  a  force  from  the  post  compelled  them  to  return. 
Similar  expeditions  were  necessary  during  the  fol- 
lowing year  until  October  11th,  when  all  the  Sacs 
and  Foxes,  save  about  a  hundred  sick  and  infirm, 
sorrowfully  left  the  Des  Moines  Valley  for  their  new 
lands  on  the  Missouri.^^*^ 

At  Fort  Des  Moines  the  dragoons  had  now  per- 
formed their  mission  and  the  evacuation  of  the  post 
began  early  in  1846.  The  dragoons  last  remaining 
escorted  the  remnant  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  to  their 
new  homes  and  soon  after  were  exchanging  reminis- 
cences with  old  comrades  at  Fort  Leavenworth. 


IX 


ON  THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS 
RIVERS 

ExPLOKATiON  and  the  protection  of  the  caravans  of 
overland  merchants  on  their  way  to  Santa  Fe  con- 
stituted the  principal  tasks  of  several  companies  of 
dragoons  during  the  year  1843.  These  escort  duties 
led  them  over  the  old  trade  route  across  the  present 
State  of  Kansas,  while  their  trail  of  exploration 
winds  between  the  Canadian  and  Arkansas  rivers  in 
the  States  of  Kansas  and  Oklahoma. 

Captain  Boone  with  sixty  dragoons  left  Fort 
Gibson  on  May  14,  1843,  for  a  tour  which  lasted 
about  eleven  weeks. ^^^  For  almost  two  weeks  the 
squadron  moved  along  the  Arkansas  River  over  hills, 
prairies,  ravines,  and  steep  ascents.  On  the  20th 
Lieutenant  Abraham  R.  Johnston  with  twenty-seven 
men  of  Company  D  joined  the  march,  and  on  that 
day  the  troops  crossed  the  Arkansas  River.  Deer 
and  antelope  sometimes  scampered  over  the  prairies 
and  elk  tracks  attracted  the  keen  eyes  of  Captain 
Boone.  Presently  the  column  was  crossing  old 
stamping-grounds  where  weather-beaten  skeletons 
and  staring  skulls  indicated  the  former  presence  of 
hordes  of  buffalo. 


97 


98       MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

''The  destruction  of  these  animals  yearly",  ob- 
served Captain  Boone  in  his  Journal,  "and  their 
falling  off  so  rapidly  makes  it  certain,  almost,  that 
in  a  few  years  they  will  only  be  known  as  a  rare 
species.  More  than  30,000  robes  for  commerce  come 
down  the  Missouri  annually,  these  added  to  those 
which  go  elsewhere,  must  make  the  tax  on  the  buffalo 
robes  annually  come  to  exceed  100,000.  Taking  into 
consideration  the  fact  that  the  animals  destroyed  for 
food  are  taken  in  the  summer  while  the  hair  is  almost 
all  off,  and,  of  course,  the  robe  useless,  we  can 
readily  account  for  this  disappearance  from  the 
grounds  we  have  been  travelling  over,  and  make  it 
certain  that  the  buffalo  must  soon  cease  on  these 
plains  altogether." 

Late  in  May  several  old  Indian  lodges  were  dis- 
covered and  soon  the  dragoons  were  guests  at  a 
camp  of  thirty-five  or  forty  Osages  who  had  just 
killed  twenty-five  buffalo.  The  following  morning 
the  lariats  were  found  cut  and  ten  horses  and  two 
mules  had  disappeared.  The  Osages  now  appeared 
and  reported  that  the  theft  of  the  animals  was  the 
work  of  the  Pawnees.  Captain  Boone  immediately 
sent  thirty  men  in  pursuit  who  galloped  over  the 
trail  for  thirty  miles  and  then  lost  it  in  a  sandy  plain. 
Suspicion  was  then  fixed  upon  the  Osages,  one  of 
whom  soon  afterward  was  seen  riding  one  of  the 
stolen  mules.  The  horses,  however,  were  never 
recovered. 

By  steady  riding  during  the  first  week  in  June, 
Captain  Boone  advanced  across  salt  plains,  reddish 


THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS  RIVERS     99 

soils,  creeks,  ravines,  and  sand  drifted  in  heaps  by 
the  winds.  Here  and  there  the  dragoons  observed 
deer,  antelope,  prairie  dogs,  and  sometimes  buffalo 
in  large  numbers.  The  detachment  then  struck  the 
Santa  Fe  trace  —  a  thoroughfare  rutted  by  traders ' 
wagons  which  for  many  years  had  jolted  over  the 
course  between  Independence,  Missouri,  and  Santa 
Fe. 

A  clump  of  timber  — ^ '  Mulberry  Grove ' ' —  shel- 
tered Captain  Boone's  command  on  the  7th  of  June. 
Then  for  about  two  weeks  the  dragoons  advanced 
westward  on  the  Santa  Fe  Trail.  A  small  party  of 
traders  bound  for  Santa  Fe  and  California  was 
found  on  the  Little  Arkansas  River.  They  informed 
Captain  Boone  that  the  Governor  of  Santa  Fe  was 
expected  at  the  Arkansas  River  with  an  escort  for 
them. 

The  second  week  of  June  was  inclement  and 
Captain  Boone's  Journal  notes  frequent  storms  of 
sleety  rains,  hail,  thunder,  and  wind.  Thickets  of 
elm,  box  elder,  and  plum  gave  relief  to  dragoon 
horses  which  had  been  fording  creeks  and  wading 
through  banks  of  drifted  sands.  Cow  Creek  was 
crossed,  and  on  the  10th  of  June  the  column  forded 
the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  River. 

Three  days  later  the  command  encamped  at  the 
mouth  of  Walnut  Creek.  On  this  stream  three  com- 
panies of  dragoons  under  Captain  Cooke  were 
encamped  —  an  advance  guard  for  a  caravan  of 
about  fifty  wagons  bound  for  Santa  Fe.  "As  the 
traders  had  gotten  within  12  miles",  thought  Captain 


100      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Boone,  ''and  there  was  no  guessing  at,  when  the 
water  would  allow  them  to  come  on,  and  as  they 
appeared  by  the  intelligence  furnished  by  Captain 
Cooke,  to  be  in  no  sort  of  apprehension  of  an  attack, 
we  prepared  for  a  move  tomorrow." 

After  marching  thirty  miles  over  alternate 
stretches  of  clay,  sand,  and  prairie.  Captain  Boone's 
command  invaded  a  great  buffalo  range.  From  an 
eminence  the  soldiers  enjoyed  the  grand  sight  of 
perhaps  ten  thousand  buffalo  feeding  on  the  plains 
below  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see.  ''In  destroying 
them,"  explained  the  Journal,  "the  surest  weapon 
is  a  short  barrelled  shot-gun  carrying  a  large  ball ;  as 
they  are  the  most  easily  managed.  .  .  .  The  fat 
of  the  buffalo  is  more  oily  than  tallow  and  is  better 
for  cooking.  In  selecting  an  animal  from  the  herd 
to  kill,  one  should  look  to  their  thickness  through  the 
hump,  they  will  be  the  fattest  that  are  broadest 
through  there,  and  plump.  For  a  mile  or  two  they 
run  almost  as  fast  as  a  horse,  and  are  then  easily 
caught.  Their  hides  are  very  thick  and  from  the 
form  of  the  animal  they  are  well  adapted  to  make 
skin  boats  of." 

The  marches  during  the  last  week  of  June  offered 
pleasant  scenery.  Water  from  clear  springs  re- 
freshed men  and  animals,  and  the  evening  encamp- 
ments were  surrounded  by  groves  of  cedar,  elm,  and 
Cottonwood.  Gypsum  beds,  salt  rock,  contorted 
mineral  forms,  and  brackish  streams  which  cut  up 
the  country  into  a  multitude  of  little  valleys,  gave 
character  to  the   surface.     Buffalo  were   observed 


THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS  RIVERS   101 

almost  daily,  and  elk  at  times  timidly  approached 
the  dragoon  camps.  A  dragoon  officer  gave  chase  to 
a  mustang  which  sounded  the  alarm  to  a  herd  of 
about  thirty  others,  and  all  then  fled  in  terror  across 
the  uneven  plains. 

Emerging  upon  a  plain  Captain  Boone  rode  over 
a  wide  expanse  of  salt  which  had  been  carried  up 
from  underground  rock  salt  by  springs.  The  crys- 
tals deposited  on  the  surface  formed  a  white  layer 
which  cast  a  glare  in  the  bright  sunlight.  A  few 
days  later  on  the  Cimarron  River  another  saline, 
called  by  Captain  Boone  the  ''Rock  Salt",  was  dis- 
covered where  the  springs  had  deposited  a  rock  or 
crust  of  salt  covering  about  one  hundred  and  sixty 
acres.  "In  many  places  through  this  Rock  salt 
crust  the  water  boiled  up  clear  as  chrystal  [sic] ; 
tempting  to  one  suffering  from  thirst;  but  so  salt, 
that  our  hands  after  being  immersed  in  it  and  suf- 
fered to  dry,  became  as  white  as  snow.  "^^^ 

Easy  marching  brought  the  dragoons  to  the 
Canadian  River  on  July  11,  1843.^^^  Although  the 
bed  of  this  stream  was  about  half  a  mile  wide  it  con- 
tained but  little  water  and  was  easily  forded  by  the 
column.  For  the  next  week  Captain  Boone  travelled 
down  the  valley  of  this  river  along  its  southern 
bank.  Buffalo  were  becoming  scarce,  but  occasion- 
ally wild  horses  would  gallop  over  the  ridges  and 
ravines. 

Inspection  of  the  dragoons  at  this  time  would  not 
always  have  revealed  a  trim  column.  Dust-covered 
troopers  urged  on  their  jaded  and  perspiring  horses ; 


102      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

while  the  mules  patiently  dragged  the  three  camp 
wagons  over  rough  plains  and  ravines.  The  scarcity 
of  water  and  the  swarms  of  flies  caused  both  men 
and  animals  to  suffer.  Heat  waves  danced  and 
quivered  in  the  noonday  atmosphere,  but  relief  and 
repose  came  in  the  evening  camps  under  clear  skies. 

The  Canadian  Eiver  was  again  crossed  on  July 
18th,  and  on  that  day  Lieutenant  Johnston  with  his 
company  left  Captain  Boone  to  march  to  Fort 
Washita.  ''Remained  in  camp  to  day",  says  the 
Journal  for  July  24,  1843,  "to  rest  our  jaded  cattle 
and  to  dry  our  beef.  Indians  visited  us  throughout 
the  course  of  the  day,  bringing  in  marketing  of 
various  kinds  —  Seemed  to  regard  our  presence  as  a 
kindly  visitation  of  providence  in  supplying  them 
the  means  of  disposing  of  some  of  their  produce  and 
the  means  of  getting  a  little  money." 

Early  in  the  morning  of  each  day  the  squadron 
resumed  the  march.  On  July  25th  the  burial  of  a 
dragoon  accidentally  killed  by  a  carbine  detained 
Captain  Boone  for  a  brief  time,  but  soon  the  com- 
mand left  Fort  Holmes  behind.  Then  the  sight  of 
the  timber  along  the  Arkansas  River  gave  promise 
of  rest  and  better  quarters.  It  was  at  mid-day  on 
July  31,  1843,  that  Captain  Boone's  companies 
halted  and  then  broke  ranks  on  the  parade  ground  at 
Fort  Gibson. 

Captain  Cooke  late  in  the  summer  of  1843  again 
performed  the  duty  of  protecting  a  caravan  on 
the  Santa  Fe  Trail. ^°^     For  over  twenty  years  the 


THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS  RIVERS   103 

ends  of  the  trail  at  Independence  and  at  Santa  Fe 
had  witnessed  this  far-flung  traffic,  the  history  of 
which  is  stocked  with  tales  of  wealth  and  failure, 
dangers  and  adventure,  picturesque  scenes  and  hum- 
drum toil.  In  1829  Major  Riley  had  led  a  military 
escort  over  a  portion  of  this  trail  of  seven  hundred 
and  seventy  miles,  and  five  years  later  Captain 
Wharton's  dragoons  had  seen  similar  service.  In 
1843  the  growth  of  the  commerce  and  the  public 
demands  for  its  protection  had  again  brought  mili- 
tary forces  upon  the  route. ^^^ 

Wagon  after  wagon  heavily  loaded  with  goods 
for  the  Mexican  trade  at  Santa  Fe  had  been  leaving 
Independence  during  August  of  1843.  Blue  Camp, 
Round  Grove,  Oregon  Trail  Junction,  Black  Jack 
Point,  and  110-Mile  Creek  were  w^ell  known  points 
on  the  trail.  Steady  travelling  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  finally  brought  the  traders  to  Council 
Grove,  the  spot  where  they  assembled  and  organized 
the  caravan  for  the  long  journey  to  Santa  Fe. 

To  the  four  companies  of  dragoons  directed  to 
escort  the  caravan  the  encampment  here  presented 
new  scenes.  Council  Grove  was  a  fertile  bottom 
land  of  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  heavily 
timbered  with  oak,  elm,  hickory,  ash,  and  walnut. 
Scores  of  wagons  loaded  with  such  articles  as  cotton 
cloth,  calicoes,  hardware,  soap,  sugar,  and  coffee  be- 
tokened a  wealthy  caravan.  Here  too  it  was  custom- 
ary to  cut  extra  axle-trees  and  to  make  other  repairs 
for  the  heavj^  Pittsburg  or  Dearborn  wagons.  Oxen 
and  mules,  grazing  in  the  lush  grass,  dotted  the  hills 


104      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

and  valleys.  Not  unlikely  the  air  was  vocal  with  the 
rude  jests  of  the  wagoners,  farmers,  or  backwoods- 
men, as  well  as  with  the  oaths  of  Mexican  drivers  as 
they  harnessed  the  animals  or  reloaded  the  mer- 
chandise of  the  caravan.  ^^^ 

Soon  the  motley  line  of  dragoons  and  traders  was 
moving  across  the  prairies.  On  September  3,  1843, 
it  arrived  at  Diamond  Spring  ^^'^  where  there  was 
good  camping  ground  and  cool  water  from  a  spring. 
Cheers,  unearthly  yells,  and  volleys  of  whipcracks 
from  the  swarthy  Mexicans  urged  on  the  overworked 
mules.  On  September  6th  the  traders  halted  near 
Cottonwood  Fork.  In  the  next  three  days  the  dra- 
goons, although  retarded  by  rains  and  tormented  by 
mosquitoes,  advanced  over  forty  miles. 

"All  day  it  has  rained  again",  complained  Cap- 
tain Cooke  for  the  9th  of  September.  "We  have 
been  lying  still,  trying  to  keep  dry  and  warm,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Little  Arkansas.  There  are  a  few  green 
trees  and  bushes,  but  little  fuel.  Worst  of  all  is  the 
case  of  the  poor  horses  —  they  are  starving  and 
freezing  before  our  eyes,  for  the  grass  is  very  coarse 
and  poor ;  they  have  shrunk  very  sensibly  in  twenty- 
four  hours." 

Here  Captain  Cooke  awaited  the  coming  of  the 
traders  who  had  been  left  far  behind.  A  squadron 
of  dragoons  worn  and  tattered  came  from  the  south 
and  joined  the  command;  but  they  soon  departed  on 
the  return  trail  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  Drills,  inspec- 
tions, reorganizations,  and  the  reading  of  a  few  old 
newspapers  occupied  the  dragoon  captain.    Not  until 


THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS  RIVERS   105 

September  14tli  did  the  traders  commence  to  cross 
the  Little  Arkansas. 

Leaving  the  slow-moving  traders  behind,  the 
dragoon  escort  met  a  small  group  of  traders  who 
were  returning  from  a  successful  trading  venture  at 
Santa  Fe.  At  Cow  Creek  buffalo  were  observed  and 
there  an  unfortunate  dragoon  was  accidentally 
wounded  by  a  carbine.  Numerous  buffalo  at  Walnut 
Creek  prompted  a  chase,  with  the  result  that  the 
command  on  that  day  feasted  on  buffalo  meat  instead 
of  beef.  In  another  day  the  force  was  resting  in  the 
shade  of  cottonwood  trees  on  the  banks  of  the  Arkan- 
sas River,  where  men  and  animals  were  attacked  by 
swarms  of  mosquitoes. 

For  about  twenty- two  miles  Captain  Cooke's 
cavalcade  continued  to  advance  on  the  trail  along  the 
north  bank  of  the  Arkansas.  A  dismal,  cold  rain 
pelted  the  dragoons  as  they  waded  through  muddy 
quicksands  or  shivered  in  their  tireless  camps.  "In 
vain  was  excitement  offered  in  the  shape  of  the  most 
convenient  herds  of  buffalo;  cows,  calves,  in  far 
family  groups,  kicking  up  the  mud  as  they  ran  past 
almost  into  our  faces: — a  cape  saturated  to  board- 
like stiffness,  thrown  back  —  a  sodden  holster-cover 
half  raised  —  a  horse  urged  to  a  deeper  splash  or 
two  —  and  then,  reaction  brought  us  to  the  cold 
stage  again!" 

The  encampment  at  the  ''Caches"  offered  fresh 
grass  to  the  hungry  dragoon  horses.  An  express 
from  the  belated  caravan  informed  Captain  Cooke 
that   the   traders   were    still   water-bound   at    Cow 


106      MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

Creek.  A  raw,  searching  wind  having  arisen,  the 
dragoon  captain  in  his  cheerless  camp  wondered 
whether  he  would  be  compelled  to  winter  on  the 
Arkansas  River  or  whether  he  would  be  enabled  to 
enjoy  his  books  and  the  company  of  his  comrades  in 
the  more  cozy  quarters  of  Fort  Leavenworth. 

The  first  day  of  October  dawned  fair  and  bright. 
On  the  5th  Captain  Cooke  observed  a  Mexican  escort 
at  the  Cimarron  Crossing  on  the  Arkansas  River. 
This  stream  then  formed  the  international  boundary 
and  President  Santa  Anna  had  sent  about  two  hun- 
dred Mexicans  to  escort  the  traders  from  this  point 
to  Santa  Fe.  An  invitation  to  visit  the  dragoon 
camp  was  declined  by  the  Mexican  commander,  but 
Captain  Cooke  lingered  to  see  the  caravan  ford  the 
Arkansas  River. 

Mounting  his  command  in  order  of  battle,  Cap- 
tain Cooke  directed  a  salute  in  honor  of  the  Mexicans 
to  be  fired  from  the  howitzer  battery. ^^^  As  the 
reports  travelled  down  a  fine  reach  of  the  river  the 
shells  bounded  and  rebounded  on  the  stream  and 
finally  exploded  under  the  chilly  water.  The  traders 
now  resumed  their  journey  of  about  three  hundred 
and  eighty  miles,  but  Captain  Cooke's  dragoons 
turned  their  faces  toward  home. 

The  return  journey  was  made  in  about  two  weeks 
by  steady  marching.  In  a  beautiful  bend  of  the 
Arkansas  River  a  forest  of  antlers  indicated  a  large 
herd  of  big  game ;  on  that  evening  the  dragoon  camp 
enjoyed  elk  steak  in  abundance.  At  the  Pawnee 
Fork  great  numbers  of  buffalo  were  heard  as  they 


THE  CANADIAN  AND  ARKANSAS  RIVERS   107 

splashed  through  the  river  in  their  nocturnal  migra- 
tions. Another  herd  was  seen  at  Ash  Creek,  and 
five  were  slain  within  a  mile  of  the  camping  ground. 

One  after  another  of  the  camps  of  the  previous 
summer  was  passed,  the  retreat  being  hastened  by 
fears  of  starvation  for  the  mules  and  horses.  Water 
was  freezing  every  night  and  the  frost-covered  grass 
was  no  longer  fit  for  the  dragoon  horses  which  were 
beginning  to  drop  on  the  trail.  Dragoon  blankets 
were  shared  with  them  and  the  dead  grass  chopped 
with  knives  was  mixed  with  flour  to  be  fed  to  the 
hungry  horses. 

When  the  hospitable  shelter  of  Council  Grove  was 
reached  some  of  the  broken-down  horses  were  left  to 
rest  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  forage.  Here  the 
Santa  Fe  trace  was  abandoned,  and  the  groves  at 
110-Mile  Creek  induced  Captain  Cooke  to  linger  for 
several  days.  Now  and  then  prairie  fires  fanned  by 
the  October  winds  caused  dense  clouds  of  smoke  to 
rise  high  in  the  air. 

As  Fort  .Leavenworth  loomed  into  view  the  sol- 
diers forgot  the  toils  and  hardships  of  the  recent 
campaign.  Their  work  for  the  season  was  about 
done,  and  they  were  now  indulging  in  the  luxury  of 
visions  of  letters  and  newspapers  from  home,  crack- 
ling log-fires,  and  a  winter  of  repose  and  enjoyment 
at  the  old  barracks  of  Fort  Leavenworth. 


CAPTAIN  ALLEN'S  JOURNEY  TO  THE 
NORTHWEST 

A  NOTEWOETHY  evGiit  ill  the  brief  history  of  Fort 
Des  Moines  (No.  2)  was  Captain  Allen's  march  in 
the  summer  and  fall  of  1844.  This  expedition  of 
seven  hundred  and  forty  miles  crossed  the  present 
States  of  Iowa,  Minnesota,  and  South  Dakota — areas 
at  that  time  embraced  within  the  Territory  of  Iowa. 
The  records  of  this  military  movement  preserve 
interesting  accounts  of  adventures  as  well  as  geo- 
graphical information.  ^^^ 

August  11,  1844,  was  the  day  on  which  the  caval- 
cade commenced  to  file  across  the  prairies  toward 
the  north.  The  company  consisting  of  about  fifty 
dragoons  was  provisioned  with  pork  for  forty  days, 
flour  for  sixty  days,  and  small  rations  for  seventy 
days.  The  route  designated  in  the  orders  was  "up 
the  Des  Moines  river,  and  to  the  sources  of  the  Blue 
Earth  river  of  the  St.  Peter 's ;  thence  to  the  waters 
of  the  Missouri;  and  thence  returning  through  the 
country  of  the  Pottowatomies." 

For  about  three  weeks  the  dragoons  advanced 
along  the  west  bank  of  the  Des  Moines  River  and 
then  along  the  east  bank  of  the  west  fork  of  that 

108 


CAPTAIN  ALLEN'S  JOURNEY  109 

stream  —  a  distance  of  about  two  Imndred  and  fifty 
miles.  Wagons  heavily  loaded  with  provisions  and 
camp  equipment  were  dragged  by  mules  and  oxen 
over  prairies  interspersed  with  ravines  and  covered 
with  tall  grass. 

Daily  marches  of  about  fifteen  miles  soon  dis- 
closed a  fine  game  country  which  yielded  elk,  deer, 
coons,  squirrels,  and  waterfowl  in  plenty.  Soldiers 
dripping  with  mud  and  water  helped  to  drag  wagons 
over  flooded  prairies;  wagon  tongues  sometimes 
broke;  and  camping  places  were  found  with  diffi- 
culty. ' '  About  five  in  the  afternoon, ' '  wrote  Captain 
Allen,  "while  we  w^ere  fast  in  a  mudhole,  there  came 
a  tremendous  storm  from  the  north,  with  torrents  of 
rain;  and  night  and  pitch  darkness,  with  rain, 
thunder,  and  cold,  found  us  three  or  four  miles  from 
timber,  and  unable  to  go  further;  there  was  no  firm 
ground  about  us,  and  there  we  spent  the  night  as  we 
best  could,  without  fire,  shelter,  or  food. ' ' 

Clearer  skies  returned  as  the  column  meandered 
about  in  a  region  containing  smooth,  glassy  sheets 
of  water.  Although  Medium  Lake  was  unknown  to 
Captain  Allen  by  name,  he  could  not  repress  admi- 
ration for  its  shores  skirted  by  primeval  groves  of 
trees  that  were  reflected  from  the  surface.  Here  one 
of  the  men  shot  an  elk;  and  large  flocks  of  ducks, 
geese,  and  swans,  thus  rudely  disturbed,  forsook 
their  favorite  haunts  to  fly  from  such  strange 
invaders. 

Captain  Allen,  unaware  that  he  was  traversing  a 
region  destined  to  be  classic  ground  for  the  future 


110      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

geologist,  failed  to  observe  the  fertility  of  the  soil. 
''The  whole  country  is  good  for  nothing,"  he  writes, 
' '  except  for  the  seclusion  and  safety  it  affords  to  the 
numerous  water  fowl  that  are  hatched  and  grown  in 
it."  Wading  through  tall,  luxuriant  grass  the 
troops  encamped  on  Swan  Lake  which  is  still  an 
abiding  attraction  in  the  rural  landscape.  Lieuten- 
ant P.  Calhoun  then  explored  Turtle  Lake  —  a  body 
of  water  "7  or  10  miles  long,  of  beautiful  character, 
with  bright  pebbled  shores,  and  well-timbered  bor- 
ders, having  a  small  stream  running  into  it  from  the 
westward,  and  also  an  outlet  to  the  eastward.  "^"^"^ 

Shetek  Lake,  the  source  of  the  west  fork  of  the 
Des  Moines  River,  was  explored  on  September  1, 
1844.  A  fleet  elk  eluded  Captain  Allen,  but  a  large 
black  bear  was  chased  into  the  dragoon  column. 
Horses  and  mules  snorted  with  terror  until  a  regular 
fusillade  of  shots  by  the  dragoons  brought  the  animal 
down.  Five  years  before  J.  N.  Nicollet,  a  French 
geographer,  having  pitched  his  tents  for  three  days 
in  this  region,  was  especially  impressed  by  the  abun- 
dance of  fish  and  the  groves  of  trees  encircling  the 
lakes. ^"^^ 

Leaving  Lieutenant  Patrick  Noble  with  twenty- 
five  men  at  the  lake.  Captain  Allen  advanced  north- 
ward thirty-seven  miles  and  then  eastward  to  the 
Minnesota  River  (then  called  the  St.  Peter's  River). 
Two  elk  were  shot  on  the  prairie,  but  two  others 
after  a  long  chase  escaped.  "  I  do  not  like  elk  meat, ' ' 
comments  Captain  Allen.  ''It  has  a  coarse  fibre,  is 
unlike  the  deer,  and  I  think  a  mule  would  taste  about 
as  well." 


CAPTAIN  ALLEN'S  JOURNEY  111 

From  the  Minnesota  River  the  dragoon  captain 
marched  southward  over  a  country  marked  by 
marshy  ponds  and  broken  rock.  The  land  observed 
on  this  trip  was  regarded  by  Captain  Allen  as  almost 
worthless :  the  soil  was  poor,  timber  was  scarce,  and 
troops  marched  over  the  region  with  difficulty.  In 
two  days,  however,  the  command  travelled  fifty- 
seven  miles,  rejoining  Lieutenant  Noble  on  Septem- 
ber 6,  1844. 

Charmed  by  the  scenery  and  the  abundance  of 
waterfowl  at  Lake  Shetek,  the  dragoons  remained 
encamped  for  tw^o  days  and  then  steered  westward 
for  about  forty  miles.  Hour  after  hour  the  little 
detachment  shogged  along  over  wide  level  prairies 
dotted  with  little  lakes.  "Encamped  near  sunset  on 
the  border  of  a  slue,  in  the  open  prairie,  there  being 
no  timber  in  sight ;  the  night  cold,  cloudy,  and  rain. ' ' 
On  the  following  day  three  buffalo  were  killed,  and 
so  in  the  evening  camp  on  the  Big  Sioux  River  the 
cooks  prepared  buffalo  beef  instead  of  the  usual 
pork. 

It  was  a  rough  course  over  which  the  dragoons 
travelled  in  their  marches  down  the  valley  of  the  Big 
Sioux.  On  September  10th  a  group  of  Indians  came 
to  the  encampment  and  informed  the  dragoons  that 
there  was  a  trading-house  at  a  point  many  miles 
down  the  river.  In  the  morning  two  days  later 
twelve  horses  and  mules  were  missing  and  parties 
were  sent  out  in  all  directions  to  find  the  animals, 
with  the  result  that  eight  were  recovered.  Captain 
Allen   suspected  the   Sioux  Indians,  whom  he   re- 


112      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

garcled  as  ''great  rascals,  and  capable  of  any  theft." 
Since  no  trading-house  could  be  discovered  the  dra- 
goon captain  believed  that  the  Indians  had  basely 
deceived  him.  ''It  is  said  of  the  Sioux,"  he  com- 
plained, "that  they  are  prouder  of,  and  more  habitu- 
ated to,  lying  than  truth-telling,  and  here  is  pretty 
good  evidence  in  support  of  the  charge. ' ' 

Though  timid  and  agitated,  these  Indians  gazed 
with  some  wonderment  upon  Captain  Allen's  force 
encamped  on  the  buffalo  range.  Saddles,  carbines, 
and  camp  utensils  lay  in  profusion  on  the  prairie, 
and  horses  and  mules  were  picketed  in  the  tall, 
luxuriant  grass.  Soldiers  in  uniforms  more  or  less 
travel-stained  were  resting  about  the  camp,  perhaps 
smoking  or  discussing  their  unbidden  Indian  guests. 
During  the  chilly  night  sentinels  stood  guard  while 
troopers  sated  with  buffalo  meat  may  have  dreamed 
of  thrilling  buffalo  hunts  on  the  prairies.  In  the 
morning  sleepy  dragoons  awoke  to  find  the  grass 
heavy  and  white  with  the  first  September  frost. 

The  picturesque  falls  where  now  is  the  city  of 
Sioux  Falls  excited  the  interest  and  admiration  of 
the  dragoon  captain.  Here  an  hour  or  two  was  spent 
making  observations.  Captain  Allen  estimated  the 
fall  to  be  one  hundred  feet  in  four  hundred  yards. 
One  fall  was  twenty  feet,  another  eighteen,  and  a 
third  ten.  The  rock  on  the  borders  of  the  stream 
was  split,  broken,  and  piled  up  in  irregular  and  fan- 
tastic shapes,  and  deep  chasms  extended  from  the 
stream  in  all  directions. 

Buffalo  hunts  were  almost  daily  incidents  of  the 


CAPTAIN  ALLEN'S  JOURNEY  113 

inarches.  South  of  the  falls  the  hunters  charged  a 
herd  of  more  than  one  hundred  animals  just  as  the 
command  was  preparing  to  go  into  camp.  The  thud 
of  hoofs  and  the  reports  of  carbines  sounded  through 
the  night  air,  and  then  two  cows  and  a  calf  dropped 
on  the  prairie.  The  game,  which  during  the  night 
was  guarded  from  the  wolves  by  sentinels,  was 
dressed  on  the  next  day.  In  what  is  now  Lyon 
County,  Iowa,  six  men  fired  a  volley  into  a  buffalo 
bull  standing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  *'We 
might  have  killed  hundreds  by  delaying  for  the  pur- 
pose," declared  Captain  Allen. 

Luxuriant  timber  and  rich  alluvial  soil  came  into 
view  as  the  detachment  descended  the  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Big  Sioux.  But  as  the  dragoons  neared 
the  mouth  of  the  river  ugly  hills,  broken  ravines,  and 
high  bluffs  retarded  the  movements  of  the  troops. 
There  were  broken  wagons,  jaded  horses,  and  dis- 
gruntled drivers.  '*0f  course",  remarks  Captain 
Allen  on  September  19th,  ''we  had  all  sorts  of 
trouble,  upset  one  wagon  twice,  killed  one  mule,  and 
broke  another  wagon  square  off  at  the  hounds.  The 
romance  of  marching  through  a  wilderness  country 
is  much  abated. ' ' 

On  September  20,  1844,  the  squadron  remained 
encamped  to  repair  the  wagons.  Captain  Allen, 
however,  set  out  with  four  men  to  find  the  mouth  of 
the  river  which  they  had  so  laboriously  traced.  For 
seven  miles  they  encountered  bluffs,  ravines,  valleys, 
and  swamps.  They  pushed  through  tall  grass,  plum- 
bushes,   and   willow-thickets   dripping   in   the   cold 

9 


114      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

September  rain.  Then  Captain  Allen  beheld  the 
muddy  waters  of  the  Missouri,  and,  on  ground  now 
occupied  by  a  portion  of  Sioux  City,  he  observed  the 
effects  of  the  great  flood  of  the  previous  spring. 

Grlad  to  leave  ''these  terrible  hills"  of  the  Mis- 
souri he  commenced  to  march  southeastwardly  for 
Fort  Des  Moines. ^*^^  There  was  plenty  of  hard  work 
in  constructing  bridges  across  brooks,  fording  deep 
and  miry  creeks,  or  in  preparing  the  banks  of 
streams  to  be  crossed.  The  long  marches  tired  men 
and  animals;  even  the  entries  in  the  Journal  of 
Captain  Allen  became  more  brief  as  the  soldiers 
labored  towards  the  fort. 

Descending  the  Raccoon  River,  Captain  Allen's 
men  were  perhaps  too  weary  to  note  in  detail  the 
hills,  bluffs,  and  groves  which  appeared  and  then 
receded  from  view.  Heavy  frosts  deadened  and 
blackened  the  grass  arid  gave  a  sombre  aspect  to  the 
morning  landscapes.  Dragoons  walked  miles  and 
miles  over  the  prairies  to  relieve  their  tired  animals 
which  were  suffering  from  want  of  proper  feed.  In 
Dallas  County  a  fine  bear  was  chased  over  the 
prairies  until  a  dragoon  sergeant  riding  at  full 
gallop  shot  him  dead  with  a  carbine. 

Eight  miles  were  travelled  on  October  3,  1844. 
Teams  were  jaded,  wagons  dilapidated,  and  soldiers 
travel-worn  when  the  command  returned  to  Fort  Des 
Moines  at  noon  on  that  day.  To  Captain  Allen  re- 
mained only  the  pleasant  duty  of  preparing  the 
detailed  narrative  of  this  successful  summer  cam- 
paign.^^^ 


XI 


CAPTAIN  SUMNER'S  VISITS  AMONG  THE 
SIOUX 

At  the  twenty-two  posts  in  the  western  division  of 
the  army  in  1845  there  was  a  total  of  about  1900  men. 
The  ten  companies  of  dragoons  were  stationed  at 
four  forts  where  they  performed  garrison  duties  and 
from  which  expeditions  into  the  Indian  country  were 
despatched.  In  this  year  over  two  hundred  men 
were  enlisted  at  various  stations  to  take  the  places 
of  dragoons  removed  by  sickness,  death,  and  by  the 
expiration  of  terms  of  enlistment. ^^"* 

Captain  Sumner  with  a  company  of  about  sixty 
men  at  Fort  Atkinson,  besides  effectively  checking 
the  sale  of  whiskey  to  the  Winnebagoes  near  the 
Turkey  River  Agency,  had  marched  to  the  Minnesota 
River  in  the  summer  of  1844.  On  June  3rd  of  the 
next  year  Company  B  again  departed  from  Fort 
Atkinson  to  penetrate  the  Indian  country  drained  by 
the  Minnesota  River  in  what  was  then  the  Territory 
of  Iowa.^°^ 

The  northwesterly  advance  was  slowed  by  the 
June  rains  which  had  saturated  the  prairies.  Swol- 
len streams  were  crossed,  and  lakes,  pools,  and 
marshes  compelled  many  extra  miles  of  riding.    On 

115 


116      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

June  13th  Captain  Allen  with  his  company  from 
Fort  Des  Moines  joined  Captain  Sumner's  column, 
and  officers  and  privates  then  related  their  experi- 
ences of  the  previous  summer.  A  few  days  later 
two  men  of  Captain  Allen's  company  were  injured 
by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  pistol.  Without 
other  special  incidents  the  companies  arrived  at 
Traverse  des  Sioux  on  June  22nd.^^® 

Here  was  the  great  crossing  place  of  the  Sioux 
bands  as  they  wandered  back  and  forth  over  the 
buffalo  ranges  of  the  Minnesota  Valley.  Captain 
Sumner  learned  that  the  whiskey  trade  flourished  in 
this  region  and  in  the  past  two  months  hundreds  of 
kegs  filled  with  the  liquor  had  been  transported  up 
the  river.^^'''  The  dragoon  officers  listened,  perhaps, 
to  discouraging  tales  from  the  Indian  teachers  re- 
siding at  this  place ;  and  so  Captain  Sumner  told  the 
Sioux  that  their  great  father,  the  President,  very 
much  desired  that  they  should  obey  the  instructions 
of  the  missionaries. 

A  boat  which  had  ascended  the  river  from  Fort 
Snelling  with  howitzers  and  provisions  had  been 
awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  dragoon  force.  But  only 
seventeen  barrels  of  flour  out  of  the  thirty-one  re- 
quested had  been  forwarded.  ''This  mistake", 
declared  Captain  Sumner,  "subjected  my  command 
to  great  inconvenience,  for  I  was  not  in  a  country 
where  it  could  be  corrected  by  purchase. ' ' 

Ascending  for  six  days  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Minnesota  Eiver  the  troops  arrived  at  Lac-qui-parle 
on  July  Ist.^*^^     Several  hundred  Wahpeton  Sioux 


CAPTAIN  SUMNER  AMONG  THE  SIOUX      117 

dwelt  here  for  a  portion  of  the  year  and  cultivated 
patches  of  melons,  squashes,  and  potatoes  under  the 
instruction  of  the  missionaries.  An  unkempt  crowd 
of  Indians  greeted  Captain  Sumner,  who  gave  them 
some  presents  and  then  called  them  to  a  council. 

The  government,  began  the  dragoon  captain,  felt 
a  deep  interest  in  their  welfare  and  promised  pro- 
tection as  long  as  they  did  not  molest  the  settlers. 
He  noted,  however,  that  these  Indians  seemed  un- 
willing that  troops  should  interfere  with  the  half- 
breeds  from  the  British  settlements.  ''I  am  con- 
vinced that  the  Indians  would  prefer  that  that 
people  should  continue  to  hunt  upon  their  lands, 
than  that  our  government  should  send  troops 
through  their  country  to  keep  them  out. ' ' 

A  halt  of  three  days  was  made  at  Big  Stone 
Lake^^^  where  the  dragoons  met  the  stares  of  an- 
other band  of  Sioux.  A  council  was  called  and 
presents  were  again  distributed  —  although  Captain 
Sumner  declared  that  the  gifts  stood  in  contrast  to 
the  very  liberal  presents  of  the  English  agents. 
Three  Indians  charged  with  murder  were  impudent 
enough  to  march  directly  into  the  dragoon  camp, 
where  they  were  quickly  seized  by  Captain  Sumner 
who  sent  them  to  Dubuque  for  trial. 

Persistent  rumors  of  the  ill-will  of  the  Sioux  and 
of  their  purpose  to  secure  some  of  the  dragoon 
horses  came  to  Captain  Sumner.  ''As  the  best 
method  of  guarding  against  this  threat,  I  always 
took  occasion  to  say  to  the  Indians  in  council  that  I 
was  not  at  all  afraid  of  their  stealing  our  horses. 


118      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

intimating  by  manner  that  they  could  try  it  as  soon 
as  they  pleased ;  but  I  would  just  tell  them,  by  way 
of  caution,  that  if  an  Indian  came  near  them  at  night 
he  would  be  instantly  shot;  and  it  gives  me  great 
satisfaction  to  report  that  not  an  animal  was  stolen 
from  the  squadron  this  summer. ' ' 

Devil's  Lake  was  reached  on  July  18,  1845,^'^'' 
after  many  leagues  of  travel  across  the  headwaters 
of  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  About  one  hundred 
and  eighty  half-breeds,  descendants  of  English, 
Scotch,  Irish,  and  French  settlers,  who  were  en- 
camped here,  listened  to  talks  by  the  dragoon  officer. 
For  years  these  half-breeds  had  been  making  regular 
incursions  into  the  Sioux  country  from  Canada. 
Carts  and  wagons  drawn  by  oxen  would  return  from 
the  Sioux  hunting  grounds  laden  with  the  spoils  of 
the  chase.  Dried  meat,  tallow,  and  hides  in  vast 
quantities  supplied  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  the 
north;  it  was  estimated  that  the  annual  slaughter  of 
buffalo  amounted  to  about  30,000.^'^^ 

Warned  by  the  dragoons  that  they  had  been  tres- 
passing upon  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  the 
half-breeds  offered  the  pleas  that  they  were  ignorant 
of  any  wrong-doing  and  that  they  were  but  hunting 
upon  the  lands  of  their  Indian  parents.  Through 
interpreters  Captain  Sumner  learned  that  "they  had 
followed  this  life  from  childhood,  and  knew  no  other, 
and  they  did  not  know  what  they  could  do  if  our 
government  inhibited  them  at  once  from  their  old 
hunting  grounds." 

The  dragoon  leader  regarded  this  band  of  about 


CAPTAIN  SUMNER  AMONG  THE  SIOUX      119 

six  hundred  lialf-breeds  as  shrewd  and  sensible,  but 
lacking  in  discipline  and  leadership.  *'It  will  be  an 
extremely  difficult  thing  to  keep  these  people  out  of 
the  country,  if  they  should  determine  to  disregard 
the  order.  .  .  .  There  seemed  to  be  a  strong  dis- 
position among  them  to  become  citizens  of  the  United 
States ;  and  I  am  much  inclined  to  believe  that  many 
of  them  will  become  so,  within  a  few  years,  without 
receiving  any  encouragement  from  our  govern- 
ment." 

Many  Sioux  parties  were  met  on  returning  to 
Traverse  des  Sioux  where  the  detachment  arrived 
on  August  7,  1845.  Sullen  looks  were  sometimes 
directed  at  the  soldiers,  but  the  bands  refrained 
from  open  violence.  The  Indian  who  had  stolen 
Captain  Allen's  horses  in  the  previous  summer  was 
arrested  here  and  sent  to  Fort  Snelling.  Thus  the 
Indians  were  to  be  shown  that  government  horses 
''are  inviolable,  and  that  they  cannot  be  touched  by 
them  without  the  certainty  of  punishment  at  the 
time,  or  afterwards." 

This  was  for  Captains  Allen  and  Sumner  their 
last  northerly  campaign.  At  Traverse  des  Sioux 
the  companies  separated  on  August  11,  1845,  and 
Company  I  returned  to  Fort  Des  Moines.  Eight 
days  later  Captain  Sumner's  journey  ended  at  Fort 
Atkinson. 


xn 


COLONEL  KEAENY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL 
TO  SOUTH  PASS  1^2 

Twenty-two  hundred  miles  measure  the  expedition 
of  Colonel  Kearny  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  the 
South  Pass  in  the  summer  of  1845.  His  detachment, 
which  consisted  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
travelled  during  the  outward  march  along  the 
Oregon  Trail,  while  the  return  journey  was  along 
the  valley  of  the  Arkansas  River  and  the  Santa  Fe 
trace.  Executed  in  ninety-nine  days,  the  campaign 
was  rightly  described  as  having  been  made  ''with 
extraordinary  despatch  and  success." 

It  was  a  well  mounted  and  equipped  regiment 
that  departed  from  Fort  Leavenworth  on  the  clear 
morning  of  May  18th.  The  dragoons  armed  with 
carbines,  pistols,  and  cartridges  presented  a  genuine 
military  appearance.  Such  officers  as  Cooke,  Burg- 
win,  Turner,  and  Moore  had  become  veterans  of 
many  western  campaigns.  Two  mountain  howitzers 
and  seventeen  camp  wagons  stocked  with  supplies 
and  provisions  lumbered  and  rattled  in  the  rear  of 
the  column. 

In  just  about  a  week  Fort  Leavenworth  had  been 
left  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  behind.    North- 

120 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  121 

westerly  trails  of  other  marches  guided  Colonel 
Kearny  as  he  moved  along  broken  and  picturesque 
grounds  of  the  Missouri  and  then  struck  the  open 
prairies.  After  crossing  the  elevated  plain  between 
two  branches  of  the  Blue  River,  the  troops  forded 
that  stream  and  soon  arrived  on  the  Oregon  Trail. 

This  grand  transcontinental  highway  was  to  wit- 
ness in  1845  the  passage  of  about  three  thousand 
settlers  bound  for  the  Oregon  country.  On  the  24th 
of  May  dim,  white  spots  —  the  slowly-moving  emi- 
grant wagons  —  were  observed  on  the  distant  hori- 
zon. A  nearer  view  revealed  to  the  dragoons  the 
light  wagons  drawn  by  oxen  and  laden  with  provi- 
sions and  children,  while  scattered  about  were  large 
droves  of  cattle  browsing  in  the  lush  grass.  Joel 
Palmer,  a  shrewd,  young  farmer  from  Indiana  who 
had  but  recently  been  chosen  captain  of  one  of  the 
emigrant  companies,  recorded  that  Colonel  Kearny's 
troops  had  with  them  "nineteen  wagons  drawn  by 
mules,  and  drive  fifty  head  of  cattle  and  twenty-five 
head  of  sheep." 

Passing  the  caravan  Colonel  Kearny  moved  up 
the  valley  of  the  Little  Blue  River.  Other  caravans 
were  still  in  advance,  and  like  swarms  of  locusts  had 
consumed  the  grass  at  choice  camping  places.  Each 
day  after  a  march  of  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  the 
dragoon  mounts  had  to  be  tended ;  the  wagons  were 
unloaded;  the  tents  pitched;  and  the  evening  meal 
was  cooked.  In  the  morning  the  grass  was  cropped, 
so  that  to  the  coming  emigrants  the  place  could 
afford  only  an  inhospitable  welcome. 


122      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

The  travellers  next  crossed  the  shallow  waters 
and  quicksands  of  streams  whose  banks  were  lined 
with  cottonwoods,  oaks,  and  pea  vines.  There  were 
rolling  prairies  gashed  by  ravines  and  narrow  val- 
leys, bold  hills,  and  sand-gullies.  The  soldiers 
listened  to  the  songs  of  birds  and  perhaps  ate  the 
wild  turkey  and  antelope  of  this  region.  A  midnight 
storm  brought  furious  wind,  lightning,  thunder,  and 
a  rain  which  beat  heavily  against  the  canvas  tents. 

Another  emigrant  caravan  was  passed  and  Cap- 
tain Cooke  estimated  the  number  of  cattle  at  a 
thousand.  In  another  party  he  counted  thirty-one 
men,  thirty-two  women,  sixty-one  children,  twenty- 
four  wagons,  and  two  hundred  and  twelve  cattle. 
Men,  women,  and  children  often  sickened  on  these 
long  journeys  and  solitary  graves,  sometimes  cov- 
ered with  wolf  tracks,  began  to  mark  the  trail. 
Francis  Parkman,  the  historian,  passed  over  this 
route  just  a  year  later.  On  a  grassy  hill  a  piece  of 
plank  standing  upright  attracted  his  notice  and 
there  he  read  a  brief  story  of  sorrow  on  the  prairies : 
Maey  Ellis.    Died  May  7th,  1845,  aged  two  months 

When  the  regiment  encamped  on  the  Platte 
River  on  May  29th  it  had  travelled  about  three  hun- 
dred miles.  The  universal  features  of  the  valley 
were  fresh  green  meadows,  banks  of  sand,  and  some- 
times clumps  of  timber.  ''Near  us",  wrote  Joel 
Palmer  who  encamped  near  the  spot  two  days  later, 
"the  Platte  bottom  is  three  and  a  half  miles  wide, 
covered  with  excellent  grass,  which  our  cattle  ate 
greedily,  being  attracted  by  a  salt  like  substance 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  123 

wliicli  covers  the  grass  and  lies  sprinkled  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  We  observed  large  herds  of 
antelope  in  our  travel  of  to-day.  In  the  evening  it 
rained  very  hard." 

As  they  filed  along  the  south  bank  of  the  silent 
stream  the  troops  felt  the  charm  of  springtime. 
Grass  was  more  abundant  and  the  islands  which 
studded  the  river  were  covered  with  shrubs  and  trees 
from  which  came  the  songs  of  larks,  blackbirds, 
curlews,  and  mocking-birds.  But  on  a  Sabbath  day 
the  dragoons  observed  a  mournful  procession  of 
about  fifty  emigrant  wagons.  Leaving  the  regular 
trace  far  to  their  right  the  pioneers  had  come  to  a 
grassy  hill  where  they  conducted  the  funeral  rites  of 
a  young  infant  —  the  toll  of  the  Oregon  Trail. 

Every  morning  the  reveille  roused  the  troops  to 
another  day's  march.  They  invaded  a  colony  of 
chattering  prairie  dogs,  with  staring  screech  owls 
and  rattlesnakes  for  neighbors;  greyhounds  chased 
the  antelopes  through  the  tall  grass;  buffalo  were 
pursued  over  the  plains;  and  squalid  wolves  slunk 
over  the  hills  and  sandy  ravines.  Emigrant  cara- 
vans, driving  before  them  great  herds  of  cattle,  were 
passed  again  and  again.  In  one  place  they  found  a 
discouraged  party:  the  oxen  had  been  frightened 
away,  several  persons  were  sick,  and  one  poor 
woman  was  at  the  point  of  death. 

Thomas  Fitzpatrick,  the  guide,  led  the  column 
past  the  "Forks  of  the  Platte"  and  then  along  the 
south  bank,  "Now",  described  a  dragoon  captain 
on  June  4th,  "we  stop  to  water  at  a  small  running 


124      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

branch,  the  first  we  have  seen ;  it  is  without  a  tree ;  a 
buffalo  calf  approaches,  and  is  evidently  trying  to 
join  our  cattle ;  but  some  men  turn  it  off :  there  is  the 
mother,  which  a  hunter  pursues  up  the  steep  hills; 
it  is  exhausted,  but  his  horse  refuses  to  go  near;  he 
has  fired  —  probably  ineffectually:  we  pass  on.  At 
3  o'clock,  we  encamp  at  some  ponds,  in  the  middle 
of  the  bottom.  Many  horseloads  of  meat  are  brought 
in :  the  buffaloes  —  nearly  all  cows  and  calves, —  are 
not  yet  fat." 

On  June  6th  the  travellers  waded  through  the 
shallow  waters  and  quicksands  of  the  South  Platte 
and  then  continued  northward  until  they  saw  the 
waters  of  the  north  fork.  They  encamped  at  Ash 
Hollow  or  Ash  Creek,  where  there  was  a  fine  spring 
and  wood  and  grass  in  abundance.  The  spot  was 
well  known.  Captain  Bonneville  had  passed  it  in 
1832  and  seven  years  later  A.  Wislizenus,  a  German 
physician,  had  observed  it.  Fitzpatrick,  the  guide 
for  the  dragoons,  recalled  that  he  had  visited  the 
region  with  Lieutenant  Fremont  in  1842.  In  the 
hegira  of  1845  thousands  of  emigrants  hailed  this 
little  oasis  with  delight. 

Leagues  and  leagues  were  ridden  in  the  next  five 
days  over  a  distance  now  crossed  by  the  traveller  in 
less  than  that  number  of  hours.  On  June  9th 
Colonel  Kearny  met  a  flotilla  of  flat-boats  laden  with 
buffalo  robes  and  other  articles  of  Indian  trade. 
The  good-natured,  patient  boatmen  were  in  the 
employ  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  for 
weeks  had  been  floating  and  pushing  their  rude  ves- 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  125 

sels  down  the  sluggish  and  shifting  stream.  The 
dragoon  officers  regarded  these  sun-bnrnt,  athletic 
boatmen  with  a  curious  interest,  and  very  likely- 
Colonel  Kearny  received  much  information  about 
distant  Fort  Laramie,  the  best  grazing  and  camping 
places,  the  presence  of  Indians,  and  the  number  of 
emigrants  on  the  route. 

The  spectacle  of  Colonel  Kearny's  command  af- 
forded these  boatmen  a  welcome  change  from  the 
monotony  and  arid  desolation  of  the  plain.  Clouds 
of  dust  rose  behind  the  dragoons  as  the  black,  grey, 
and  chestnut  colored  mounts  shogged  over  the  dry 
plains.  Sabres  clanked  and  carbines  glittered  in 
the  June  sun.  The  travel-stained  dragoons  in  ad- 
dition to  their  arms  were  equipped  with  blankets, 
great  coats,  picket  ropes,  and  iron  pins.  It  is  very 
possible  that  the  boatmen  were  allowed  to  taste  the 
coffee  and  beans  from  the  commissary  wagon  or  to 
get  a  new  supply  of  tobacco. 

Next  the  soldiers  beheld  Court  House  Rock,  a 
mass  of  sand  and  clay,  looming  in  the  distant  horizon 
like  an  ancient  tower.  Then  they  approached  the 
fantastic  form  of  Chimney  Rock,  which,  declares  a 
pioneer,  ''has  the  unpoetical  appearance  of  a  hay- 
stack, with  a  pole  running  far  above  its  top. ' '  Near 
this  a  clear,  cold  spring  refreshed  men  and  animals. 

Hour  after  hour  the  column  plodded  along  over 
a  contorted  wilderness  of  mounds,  hills,  cliffs,  and 
rocks  with  here  and  there  patches  of  sagebrush  and 
cactus.  Then  they  gazed  upon  Scott's  Bluffs,  a 
famous  landmark  on  the  trail  and  the  Gibraltar  of 


126      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

the  prairies.  On  June  12th  they  encamped  on  the 
grassy  meadows  of  Horse  Creek,  which  had  piled 
large  quantities  of  cedar  driftwood  on  its  banks. 
The  perspiring  and  panting  mounts  greedily  drank 
its  cool,  clear  water  and  then  browsed  or  rested  in 
the  shady  clumps  of  trees.  About  eighty  miles  dis- 
tant, Laramie  Peak  towered  above  the  western 
horizon. 

Veteran  of  many  western  campaigns.  Colonel 
Kearny  could  not  be  unaware  of  the  importance  of 
Fort  Laramie  as  he  viewed  the  outline  of  its  rude 
structures.  Thousands  of  emigrants  rested  here  be- 
fore proceeding  on  their  toilsome  journey  to  the 
Oregon  country.  The  American  Fur  Company  own- 
ed the  station  which,  far  removed  from  law  and 
society,  submitted  to  its  absolute  rule.  Roads  con- 
nected it  with  branches  of  the  Missouri,  and  from 
the  south  it  received  supplies  from  the  Spanish 
settlements.  A  vast  interior  drained  by  the  Platte 
and  even  by  the  Missouri  rendered  to  it  its  tribute 
in  beaver  pelts  and  in  the  dried  beef,  tongues,  and 
robes  of  thousands  of  buffalo.  The  wilderness  trails 
of  French-Canadian  trappers,  Indians,  mountain- 
eers, and  half-breeds  crossed  at  Fort  Laramie,  and 
these  alike  acknowledged  the  commercial  and  in  part 
the  social  domination  of  this  western  post. 

The  quadrangular  structure  built  of  sun-dried 
bricks  was  located  on  the  west  side  of  the  Laramie 
River  about  a  mile  above  its  mouth.  Its  walls  about 
two  feet  thick  and  fifteen  feet  high  were  surmounted 
by  palisades.     The  dwellings  lining  the  walls  and 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  127 

forming  part  of  tliem  were  covered  with  mud  roofs. 
There  were  two  entrances  and  the  interior  of  the 
fort  was  divided  into  two  areas  by  a  wall,  on  one 
side  of  which  the  dragoons  observed  an  open  square 
measuring  about  twenty-five  yards.  Along  the  walls 
of  this  square  were  ranged  store-rooms,  offices,  a 
carpenter's  and  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  dwellings. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Laramie  River  stood  Port 
Platte,  a  rival  fur-trading  station,  which  competed 
for  the  honor  of  welcoming  Colonel  Kearny's  com- 
mand. 

Fort  Laramie  swarmed  with  a  mongrel  and  un- 
kempt crowd  of  women  and  children  whose  jargon 
of  mixed  French,  English,  Spanish,  and  Indian 
sounded  strange  to  Captain  Cooke.  ''Here,"  he 
observed,  "barbarism  and  a  traditional  or  half  civ- 
ilization meet  on  neutral  ground ;  but  as  a  struggle, 
it  is  certain  that  the  former  has  the  best  of  it;  al- 
though it  has  the  disadvantage  of  being  represented 
chiefly  by  females  —  both  softening  and  impressible : 
but  their  credentials  are  ill-looks,  dirty,  and  revolt- 
ingly  coarse  habits,  etc.  etc.;  while  the  male  repre- 
sentatives of  civilization  have  the  orthodox,  although 
questionable  aids  of  alcohol  and  gunpowder,  avarice, 
lying,  and  lust." 

''The  struggle  is  at  close  quarters,"  he  added. 
"Civilization,  furnishing  house  and  clothing;  bar- 
barism, children  and  fleas." 

Meanwhile  fleet  Indian  runners  had  been  sum- 
moning the  various  Sioux  bands  to  a  council.  For 
two  days  the  Indians  had  been  gazing  with  awe  and 


128      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

wonder  upon  Colonel  Kearny's  army.  They  were 
impressed  by  the  uniform  appearance  of  the  troops, 
their  fine  horses,  their  carbines,  and  their  sabres. 
And,  probably,  envious  eyes  were  cast  upon  the 
wagons  bearing  the  camp  supplies  and  provisions 
and  quantities  of  presents  and  tobacco.  If  any  of 
these  Indians  recalled  the  visits  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville in  1832  or  of  Lieutenant  Fremont  in  1842,  or 
of  the  many  emigrant  parties  later,  they  felt  that 
Colonel  Kearny's  cavalry  regiment  was  the  greatest 
army  that  had  ever  appeared  at  the  post. 

Assembling  on  a  plain  between  the  two  forts  on 
June  16,  1845,  this  council  perhaps  reminded  the 
veteran  dragoon  officers  of  similar  scenes  during 
their  former  western  campaigns.  About  a  thousand 
Sioux  formed  a  large  circle,  in  the  center  of  which 
was  the  dragoon  colonel  with  his  officers  and  an 
escort.  Two  American  flags  and  another  supposed 
to  be  of  Indian  design  fluttered  in  the  breeze.  Tall, 
fine-looking  Sioux  warriors  with  long  hair  and  gar- 
ish garbs,  were  seated  on  chairs  and  benches  facing 
the  dragoons,  while  to  the  rear  squaws  and  fright- 
ened children  shivered  in  the  cold,  crisp  air. 

The  colonel's  harangue  was  brief.  He  had  been 
sent  by  their  great  father  to  march  to  the  waters 
which  flowed  toward  the  setting  sun  and  to  open  a 
road  for  the  white  men  with  their  women,  children, 
and  cattle.  The  Sioux  were  forbidden  to  disturb 
them  or  their  property  under  penalty  of  swift  pun- 
ishment. The  greatest  enemy  among  them,  he 
warned  the  Sioux,  was  whiskey.    ''It  is  contrary  to 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  129 

the  wishes  of  your  great  father  that  whiskey  should 
be  brought  here,  and  I  advise  you,  whenever  you 
find  it  in  your  country,  no  matter  in  whose  posses- 
sion, to  spill  it  all  on  the  ground.  The  ground  may 
drink  it  without  injury,  but  you  cannot." 

Bull  Tail,  the  principal  chief,  in  a  brief  reply 
promised  obedience  and  then  directed  a  short  har- 
angue at  his  followers.  One  of  the  braves  likewise 
pledged  the  good  behavior  of  his  band  and  offered 
to  carry  Colonel  Kearny's  message  through  the 
Indian  country.  '^The  country  is  now  smoother, 
and  the  clouds  higher." 

But  more  enjoyable  to  these  Indians  were  Colonel 
Kearny's  presents.  A  motley  assortment  was  placed 
in  the  center  of  the  circle  and  then  distributed  by 
seven  warriors.  Indian  women  chanted  with  joy 
when  they  grasped  scarlet  and  blue  cloth,  beads,  or 
red  and  green  blankets;  tobacco  and  knives  were 
given;  old  men  sang  their  delight  and  thanks;  and 
young  Sioux  coxcombs  admired  themselves  in  cheap 
mirrors.  Then,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  warriors 
and  the  terror  of  the  Indian  children,  the  roars  of 
three  shots  from  the  mountain  howitzers  sounded 
down  the  Laramie  valley  after  which  the  dragoons 
filed  back  to  their  camp. 

A  difficult  march  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles 
still  lay  before  the  dragoons.  Leaving  Company  A 
at  the  post  and  disregarding  the  drizzling  rain, 
Colonel  Kearny  on  June  17th  resumed  the  westward 
advance  along  the  North  Platte.  They  passed  Warm 
Spring  and  encamped  near  Horseshoe  Creek.     The 

10 


130      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

gloomy  monotony  of  miles  and  miles  of  sagebrush 
was  sometimes  varied  by  the  sight  of  straggling 
buffalo  and  antelope;  hares  and  deer  bounded  over 
the  stony  ground;  and  the  whirring  flight  of  sage 
grouse  startled  the  dragoons.  The  mornings  were 
cool  but  at  noon-days  the  horses  glistened  w^ith  sweat 
in  the  hot  sun,  and  wagon  fellies  shrank  and  rattled 
in  the  dry,  rare  air.  And  when  the  long  days  ended, 
and  after  the  evening  meal  had  been  cooked,  and 
while  the  weather-beaten  troops  enjoyed  their  pipes 
or  lounged  about  the  mess-fires,  they  could  perhaps 
listen  to  the  howling  of  the  wolves,  the  monotones  of 
tree-frogs,  or  the  quavering  notes  of  owls. 

Long  marches  brought  the  column  to  Deer  Creek, 
where  a  little  forest  yielded  two  fat  deer  to  the  dra- 
goon hunters.  Only  two  grassy  spots  were  seen 
during  the  march  of  twenty-seven  miles  on  June 
20th;  and  in  the  grim  desolation  of  the  landscape 
they  saw  but  few  buffalo.  A  grizzly  bear  was  chased 
by  Captain  Moore;  another  dragoon  shot  a  hare; 
a  huge  rattlesnake  threatened  some  of  the  hunters; 
and  Captain  Cooke  supped  on  a  sage  grouse.  On 
the  next  day  the  column  splashed  through  the  shallow 
waters  of  the  North  Platte  and  emerged  on  its  north 
bank. 

Tired,  hot,  thirsty,  and  dusty,  the  dragoons  were 
perhaps  not  very  sensitive  to  the  desolate  majesty  of 
the  landscape  on  all  sides.  They  filed  around  the 
red-rock  precipices  of  the  Red  Buttes.  The  dry, 
parched  desert,  covered  with  rocks,  clay,  and  the 
ever  present  stunted  sagebrush,  laj^  in  the  full  glare 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  131 

of  the  June  sun.  And  at  mid-day  its  heat  and  light 
glinted  from  the  plain  white  sand  until  there  came, 
toward  evening,  the  lengthening  shadows  of  the 
Black  Hills. 

On  Sunday,  June  22,  1845,  the  travellers  came  to 
Independence  Rock,  a  solitary  mass  of  granite,  and 
on  this  "Rocky  Mountain  album"  they  could  still 
perhaps  read  the  names  of  pioneers  who,  after  in- 
scribing their  names,  had  passed  by  on  their  way  to 
Oregon.  Then  the  column  shaped  its  course  along 
the  Sweetwater  River  and  a  few  hours  later  was 
filing  through  Devil's  Grate — a  narrow  fissure  which 
the  pen  of  the  sensitive  Father  De  Smet  four  years 
before  had  preferred  to  call  ''Heaven's  Avenue". 

Hunting  parties  were  sent  out  daily,  and  once 
they  surprised  a  flock  of  mountain  sheep  which 
bounded  away  in  terror  over  the  rocky  precipices. 
Buffalo  trophies  were  brought  to  the  camp;  and 
among  the  sagebushes  a  grizzly  bear  with  three  cubs 
growled  defiance  at  the  dragoons.  Captain  Cooke 
mentioned  sage  grouse,  young  antelope,  hares,  rab- 
bits, and  chattering  magpies,  while  some  of  the 
soldiers  drew  fish  from  the  clear  waters  of  the 
riotous  Sweetwater. 

Rarer  and  rarer  became  the  atmosphere  as  the 
column  wound  or  scrambled  along  amid  the  wild  and 
disordered  scenery  of  this  stream.  On  its  alluvial 
banks  the  dragoon  mounts,  after  browsing  in  the  blue 
grass  and  white  clover,  found  shade  in  the  groves  of 
Cottonwood,  beach,  willow,  aspen,  and  pine.  Here 
and  there   roses   and   strawberries   were   about   to 


132      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

bloom.  But  outside  of  this  narrow  strip  they  gazed 
upon  the  dreary  wastes  of  the  leaden-hued  sagebrush. 
**It  is  a  desert",  described  Captain  Cooke,  "which 
supports  but  little  of  life;  in  much  of  it  the  rare 
Indian,  the  antelope,  or  gaunt  buffalo,  appear  as 
weary  travellers,  who  seek  where  they  may  be  at 
rest." 

Thus  amid  picturesque  scenes  but  also  amid  un- 
romantic  hardships  the  first  regiment  of  the  United 
States  dragoons  skirted  along  the  devious  Sweet- 
water toward  its  sources  late  in  June,  1845.  At  noon 
the  sun  beat  down  with  glaring  heat,  and  then  the 
stream  rose  several  inches  from  the  melting  snows 
of  distant  hills.  They  witnessed  magnificent  thun- 
der-storms, and  were  interested  to  see  an  old  buffalo 
skull  upon  which  the  dry,  rare  atmosphere  had  per- 
fectly preserved  some  of  the  tissues.  But  at  night 
dragoons  shivered  about  their  camps  or  under  their 
blankets.  On  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  twenty- 
seventh  of  June,  ice  was  found  in  the  tents. 

During  the  last  three  days  of  June  the  dragoons 
had  progressed  only  twenty-seven  miles  through 
lofty  solitudes  where  the  sagebrush  continued  in  its 
glory  and  where  moss  was  disputing  the  possession 
of  the  hills  with  the  prickly  pear.  They  found  wil- 
low bushes,  a  few  antelopes,  and  some  sage  hens, 
while  the  horses  recruited  their  strength  in  the  fresh 
buffalo  grass.  On  the  30th  they  came  to  the  gap 
called  South  Pass,  which  formed  the  dividing  ridge 
between  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic.^'^^ 

Here  at  an  elevation  of  over  seven  thousand  feet 


KEARNY  ON  THE  OREGON  TRAIL  133 

the  soldiers  gazed  upon  the  snow-capped  ranges  of 
the  Wind  River  and  Sweetwater  Mountains.  They 
observed  the  rise  of  the  Sweetwater  River,  which, 
meandering  and  hesitating,  appeared  undecided 
whether  to  turn  toward  the  eastern  or  the  western 
ocean.  Kit  Carson,  Bonneville,  Fremont,  and  thou- 
sands of  pioneers  had  crossed  this  pass  from  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  Captain  Cooke  recorded  that 
the  pass  lay  in  solitude,  disturbed  only  by  a  sparrow 
and  a  killdeer,  but  Colonel  Kearny  was  perhaps 
contemplating  the  oncoming  caravans.  He  had  over- 
taken on  the  Oregon  Trail  in  this  season  about  850 
men,  475  women,  1000  children,  7000  cattle,  400 
horses  and  mules,  and  460  wagons. ^"^"^  These,  he 
must  have  felt,  were  to  give  added  renown  to  the 
South  Pass  and  to  bear  a  part  in  the  winning  of  the 
Far  West. 


XIII 

FLYING  CAMPS  FROM  SOUTH  PASS  TO 
FORT  LEAVENWORTHi^^ 

Only  about  a  day  was  spent  at  the  South  Pass; 
and  then  for  nearly  two  weeks  in  July  the  regiment 
retraced  its  trail  back  to  Fort  Laramie.  Between 
long  marches  the  companies  rested  in  spots  covered 
with  currants,  gooseberries,  strawberries,  and  clover, 
where  the  mosquitoes  attacked  the  men  until  the  cool 
evenings  chilled  the  insects.  On  July  3,  1845,  a 
group  of  Oregon  emigrants  appeared  and  on  the  next 
day  and  at  their  request  Colonel  Kearny  fired  the 
mountain  howitzer  to  celebrate  the  day.  Then  the 
travels  led  over  rocks  and  sands  that  glared  with  the 
July  heat.  ' '  So  much  for  the  Fourth  of  July, —  and 
a  dry  one!"  concluded  Captain  Cooke. 

On  July  5th  the  soldiers  rode  twenty-eight  miles 
over  soil  ground  fine  by  the  emigrant  trains.  They 
passed  Devil's  Gate,  Independence  Rock,  and  Hot 
Spring  Gap ;  and  drove  buffalo  from  the  good  camp- 
ing places  but  gladly  followed  their  trails.  They  met 
Joel  Palmer,  who  noted  that  not  a  few  of  the  dra- 
goons were  ill.  Colonel  Kearny  and  others  were 
seized  with  pains  in  the  back,  limbs,  and  head,  suffer- 
ing an  attack  of  fever.  A  day  of  rest,  however, 
brought  them  relief. 

134 


FLYING  CAMPS  135 


They  found  their  old  camping  ground  at  Deer 
Creek  converted  into  a  cattle  pen  for  the  westerning 
emigrants.  ''We  killed  a  buffalo  this  afternoon ;  and 
although  scarcely  a  half-dozen  have  been  seen  from 
the  column  of  march,  since  we  struck  the  Platte,  we 
have  nearly  subsisted  on  game;  but  one  beef  has 
been  slaughtered  since  our  departure  from  Fort 
Laramie.  We  had  to  cross  the  river  to  find  grass 
for  a  camp;  the  sickness  still  prevails:  it  must  be 
attributed  to  frequent  wading  for  fuel,  the  hot  suns, 
and  the  cold  nights :  the  men  were  generally  allowed 
to  leave  their  cloaks  at  Laramie."  After  riding 
thirty  miles  on  July  13th  the  troops  were  glad  to 
encamp  on  the  Laramie  Eiver  several  miles  below 
its  mouth.  Baggage  wagons  were  sent  to  the  fort  to 
bring  supplies,  and  early  the  next  day  the  procession 
was  moving  in  a  tortuous  route  toward  a  point  which 
lay  on  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte  about  one  hundred 
and  thirty  miles  due  southward. 

Skirting  along  the  Chugwater  River  they  came  to 
some  Cheyenne  lodges.  The  Colonel  addressed  these 
Indians  and  then  distributed  liberal  presents  which 
were  accepted  by  the  patriarch  of  the  band.  The 
troopers  were  greatly  interested  in  watching  a  group 
of  Indian  girls  engaged  in  ornamenting  a  buffalo 
robe.  But  a  certain  red-haired  bachelor  captain 
wearing  spectacles  created  a  storm  of  merriment  and 
laughter  among  the  artless  Indian  maidens,  who  be- 
lieved that  the  glasses  enabled  the  wearer  to  gaze 
through  opaque  bodies ! 

The   travellers   passed  two   branches   of  Horse 


136      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Creek,  the  headwaters  of  Pole  Creek,  and  then  moved 
about  forty  miles  down  Crow  Creek.^'*^  It  was  a 
land  of  wide  spaces  in  which  the  heat  waves  quivered 
in  the  hot  July  air.  Four  hunters  lost  themselves 
and  Colonel  Kearny  ordered  the  howitzers  to  be 
fired  and  rockets  to  be  sent  up  at  night. 

Trackless  wastes  of  hills,  plains,  and  sandy 
ravines  wearied  the  eyes  of  the  soldiers,  who  saw 
only  a  few  elk,  a  badger,  three  buffalo,  and  an  ante- 
lope. Fuel  became  scarce  and  they  cooked  their 
meals  over  burning  hois  de  vache.  Far  in  the  dis- 
tance they  admired  Long's  Peak  towering  above  the 
other  mountains  and  sometimes  blending  with  the 
surrounding  clouds.  They  filed  past  a  grave  marked 
by  the  white  skeleton  of  a  buffalo  and  a  nearby  heap 
of  staring  horse's  skulls.  For  several  miles  the 
troops  rode  down  the  Cache  la  Poudre  Eiver  and 
then  forded  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte. 

Urging  their  horses  southward  toward  the  Arkan- 
sas River  the  dragoons  moved  down  the  right  bank 
of  the  South  Platte  and  passed  the  ruins  of  some  old 
adobe  trading  houses.  The  country  was  a  prairie, 
desolate  and  devoid  of  life,  over  which  the  hot  July 
winds  blew  from  the  south.  Long's  Peak  formed  an 
angle  of  sixty  degrees,  and  Pike's  Peak  was  begin- 
ning to  rise  in  the  southern  horizon.  '* To-day", 
wrote  a  dragoon  captain  on  July  23rd,  'Sve  still  fol- 
lowed up  Cherry  Creek,  or  its  dry  sands;  but  to- 
wards noon,  it  came  running  to  meet  us;  and  there 
were  the  patronymic  cherries, —  or  rather  the 
bushes;  and  of  the  sort  called  choke-cherries.     We 


FLYING  CAMPS  137 


are  again  encamped  on  it ;  but  the  highland  is  before 
us,  and  adorned,  as  the  nearer  hills,  with  pines ;  and 
with  grass  too;  and  the  prospect  is  more  homelike 
than  any  other,  since  we  left  the  Little  Blue,  near 
the  Missouri  line." 

Long,  dreary  marches  were  forgotten  when  the 
troops  came  to  the  grassy  slopes,  shrubs,  and  rose- 
bushes of  Cherry  Creek;  and  there  under  firs  and 
oaks  they  retreated  from  the  heat  and  glare  of  the 
plains.  In  riding  thirty-one  miles  on  July  25th 
Colonel  Kearny  crossed  the  highland  between  the 
Arkansas  and  the  South  Platte  rivers,  passed  Pike's 
Peak  about  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  in  the  evening 
pitched  the  dragoon  tents  on  the  banks  of  Fountain 
Creek,  a  stream  skirted  by  groves,  lush  blue  grass, 
and  rushes. 

For  seventeen  miles  the  route  of  the  column  lay 
along  this  stream.  Then  for  sixteen  miles  the  horses 
moved  over  plains  of  cactus  and  Spanish  bayonet. 
Colonies  of  noisy  prairie-dogs  barked  at  them,  but 
they  saw  no  game.  The  troops  w^ere  following  a 
commercial  highway  over  which  gunpowder,  whis- 
key, buffalo  robes  and  tongues  passed  from  trading- 
post  to  trading-post.  Under  a  broiling  sun  the 
regiment  marched  twenty-two  miles  on  July  27th 
along  the  Arkansas  River;  an  equal  distance  was 
covered  on  the  next  day ;  and  on  the  29th  the  sight  of 
a  distant  American  flag  indicated  the  presence  of 
Bent's  Fork. 

Three  shots  from  the  post's  swivel  gun  sounded  a 
noisy  salute  to  the  regiment  of  dragoons,  and  the 


138      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

proprietors,  Charles  Bent  and  Ceran  St.  Vrain,  ex- 
tended to  Colonel  Kearny  and  his  suite  a  hospitable 
welcome  at  the  sally-port.  The  main  body  of  the 
regiment,  however,  marched  a  mile  or  two  lower 
down  the  stream  and  encamped  on  a  grassy  meadow. 
The  soldiers  observed  a  structure  which  a  traveller 
described  in  1839  as  a  parallelogram  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  by  one  hundred  feet,  with  adobe  walls 
six  or  seven  feet  in  thickness,  and  seventeen  or 
eighteen  feet  in  height.^^"^ 

The  commerce  of  the  prairies  gave  to  Bent's 
Fort,  founded  in  about  1829,  a  far-flung  renown 
which  had  been  known  to  some  of  the  dragoon 
officers  for  years.  Conestoga  wagons  from  Missouri 
—  six  hundred  miles  away  —  brought  hardwares, 
calicoes,  and  dry  goods,  or  continued  on  to  Santa  Fe. 
From  the  Mexican  city  of  Taos,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  distant,  the  post  received  sugar, 
flour,  bread,  and  beans.  Here  peltries  and  buffalo 
robes  gathered  by  roving  bands  of  Camanches  and 
Cheyennes  were  collected  and  then  laboriously  trans- 
ported to  St.  Louis.  Prairie  travellers,  such  as 
Fremont  and  Farnham,  had  appreciated  the  char- 
acter of  this  trade  as  well  as  the  hospitality  of  the 
post. 

For  the  first  time  in  weeks  the  dragoon  officers 
partook  of  an  excellent  dinner  served  in  the  hos- 
pitable quarters  of  Bent  and  St.  Vrain.  They  were 
now  able  to  observe  the  organization  and  equipment 
of  this  wilderness  post.  Ranged  about  the  enclosure 
they  saw  the  servants'  quarters,  the  storehouses,  the 
proprietor's  lodgings,  and  the  wagon  house.     The 


FLYING  CAMPS  139 


regiment  had  arrived  with  rations  for  only  one  day, 
and  so  the  commissary  at  once  began  to  search  for 
the  provisions  which  had  been  sent  to  Bent's  Fort 
nearly  two  years  before.  The  provisions,  including 
the  hard  bread  and  the  rice,  were  found  in  a  state  of 
perfect  preservation. 

A  group  of  a  dozen  swarthy  Mexicans  who  were 
on  their  way  to  trade  with  the  Cheyennes  were 
sharply  questioned  by  the  soldiers.  Another  Mex- 
ican had  transported  on  his  mule  a  bag  of  wheat 
from  Taos;  and  on  all  sides  they  saw  greasy  Mex- 
icans chattering  in  the  Spanish  tongue.  ''But", 
wrote  a  dragoon,  ''with  English,  French,  and  Indian 
additions  and  combinations,  there  is  no  slight  con- 
fusion of  tongues."  With  these  the  dragoons  car- 
ried on  a  brisk  trade  to  dispose  of  old  worn-out 
horses  for  ponies  and  mules ;  and  one  officer,  receiv- 
ing a  present  of  a  pair  of  antelopes,  purchased  a 
mule  and  a  cart  for  their  transportation.  Six  hun- 
dred miles  distant  lay  Fort  Leavenworth. 

For  the  first  two  weeks  of  August  little  of  note 
took  place  as  the  regiment  descended  the  Arkansas 
Eiver.  Colonel  Kearny  met  a  large  band  of  Apaches 
—  tall,  handsome  men,  well-mounted  and  decorated 
with  steel  and  silver  ornaments.  Another  officer 
observed  that  no  language  could  conceal  an  Indian 's 
hunger.  Arriving  at  Chouteau's  Island  on  August 
3,  1845,1"^  Captain  Cooke  recalled  that  here  he  had 
helped  to  repel  an  attack  of  about  four  hundred 
Indians  exactly  sixteen  years  before. 

An  unromantic  but  not  uninteresting  routine  ap- 


140      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

pears  in  the  story  of  these  flying  camps  of  the  First 
United  States  Dragoons.  A  noisy  trumpet  at  about 
four  o'clock  gave  the  summons  for  another  day's 
work.  Inspection  followed,  and  then  a  "stable  call" 
for  the  horses  which  gladly  welcomed  the  prospect 
of  removal  to  fresh  grass.  Steaming  coffee,  some 
unleavened  cakes  baked  over  night  against  a  board 
or  a  spade,  the  usual  boiled  or  fried  buffalo  beef,  and 
occasionally  a  bit  of  fried  pork,  constituted  the 
breakfasts  on  this  march. 

All  baggage  was  then  collected  and  packed  in  the 
wagons.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  every  trooper  had 
bridled  and  saddled  his  mount  and  was  prepared  to 
travel  many  miles  through  the  heat  and  dust  of  the 
plains.  And  as  he  shogged  along  there  were  hopes, 
fears,  and  disappointments  when  he  looked  forward 
for  wood,  grass,  water,  or  shade.  "In  the  heat  of 
the  day,  if  there  be  water,"  describes  a  captain,  "we 
wait  wearily,  generally  unshaded,  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  hour,  for  horses  to  rest  and  take  a 
luncheon  of  grass,  and  for  the  baggage  to  come  up. ' ' 

When  Colonel  Kearny  camped  his  dusty  com- 
rades towards  evening  the  horses  were  first  tended. 
The  canvas  tents  rose  on  the  plain,  and  then  fol- 
lowed an  amusing  and  sometimes  unpleasantly  ex- 
citing scramble  for  fuel.  The  baggage  was  unloaded 
as  soon  as  it  arrived;  the  camp-fires  were  lit;  per- 
haps a  beef  was  slaughtered  or  some  buffalo  meat 
brought  in  by  the  hunters ;  provisions  were  issued ; 
and  the  cooks  prepared  the  evening  meal. 

The  coarse  and  simple  food  was  eaten  with  a 


FLYING  CAMPS  141 


relish.  The  soldiers  then  lounged  about  the  camp, 
smoking  their  pipes  or  admiring  the  August  sunsets 
or  moonlight  scenery,  while  merry  jests  and  songs 
doubtless  floated  on  the  night  air.  Then  the  sen- 
tinels kept  their  lonely  watches  until  relieved  by 
another  morning  bugle. 

Scenes  familiar  to  some  of  the  men  greeted  the 
detachment  when  on  August  8th  it  struck  the  main 
route  of  the  Santa  Fe  Trail,  and  passed  occasional 
merchant  caravans  which  gave  out  welcome  news 
from  the  States.  The  troops  hurried  past  the  Cimar- 
ron Crossing,  the  Caches,  Coon  Creek,  Pawnee  Fork, 
and  Ash  Creek.  Near  Walnut  Creek  the  dragoon 
hunters  found  a  herd  of  nearly  a  thousand  buffalo, 
and  when  the  hunt  was  ended  about  800  pounds  of 
meat  were  added  to  the  commissary  wagon. 

Through  the  clouds  of  dust  and  the  scorching 
heat  the  perspiring  men  and  animals  pushed  on. 
Spurred  forward  by  the  prospect  of  reaching  home, 
they  gave  less  notice  to  the  old  stations  on  the  trace 
and  soon  crossed  the  Oregon  Trail.  The  steeds  too 
became  animated  with  memories  as  the  houses, 
stables,  and  green  trees  of  Fort  Leavenworth  ap- 
peared to  view.  At  dusk  on  August  24,  1845,  the 
regiment  filed  through  the  gate  and  then  formed  at 
attention  on  the  parade  ground.  There  was  a  brief, 
eager  suspense  as  the  tired  troops  heard  a  few  words 
of  commendation  from  the  dragoon  colonel.  ' '  Great 
credit",  he  reported  later,  "is  due  to  the  officers  and 
enlisted  men  who  composed  this  command.  They 
have  all  proven  themselves  what  their  ambition  is  to 
be  —  good  soldiers." 


XIV 

WITH  THE  ''ARMY  OF  THE  WEST''^'^ 

New  duties  faced  the  first  regiment  of  dragoons  in 
1846  after  war  was  declared  against  Mexico  on  May 
12th.  Recruiting,  the  call  for  volunteers,  the  per- 
fection of  military  plans,  the  appointment  of  officers, 
and  the  equipment  of  regiments  constituted  the 
varied  activities  of  the  military  department  of  the 
government.  Compelled  for  a  time  to  abandon  their 
former  functions  of  western  campaigning  and  fron- 
tier defense,  the  dragoons  became  absorbed  in  the 
greater  tasks  of  sharing  in  a  foreign  war. 

Three  hundred  dragoons  became  the  nucleus  for 
the  "Army  of  the  West"  at  Fort  Leavenworth  where 
the  force  was  organized  by  Colonel  Kearny  and  his 
dragoon  officers.  Responding  to  the  call  of  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Missouri,  company  after  company  appeared 
at  Fort  Leavenworth  during  June  of  1846  and  were 
lettered  in  the  order  of  arrival.  Eight  companies 
of  mounted  volunteers,  two  companies  of  artillery, 
and  another  company  of  St.  Louis  rangers  com- 
pleted the  force.  When  the  mustering  in  was  com- 
pleted by  Captain  James  Allen  and  other  officers  the 
1658  men  were  further  prepared  for  the  work  of  con- 
quering the  distant  provinces  of  New  Mexico  and 

142 


ARMY  OF  THE  WEST  143 

California.  Twelve  six-pounders  and  four  twelve- 
pound  howitzers  were  added  to  the  regimental  equip- 
ment, the  commissary  wagons  were  loaded  and 
scores  of  citizens  came  to  see  Colonel  Kearny's  army 
and  to  bid  their  sons,  brothers,  or  fathers  farewell. 
Late  in  June,  1846,  detached  columns  of  the 
**Army  of  the  West"  began  to  leave  Fort  Leaven- 
worth and  to  file  across  the  plains  toward  Fort  Bent, 
about  five  hundred  and  sixty  miles  distant,  where  the 
army  was  to  reassemble.  Two  companies  of  volun- 
teers and  two  of  dragoons  were  despatched  early  to 
pursue  some  Mexican  caravans  bound  for  Santa  Fe. 
About  a  hundred  wagons  freighted  with  army  provi- 
sions followed,  and  then  the  annual  merchant  cara- 
van of  four  hundred  and  fourteen  wagons  heavily 
loaded  with  dry  goods  for  the  Mexican  markets  be- 
gan the  journey.  Next  Colonel  Kearny  with  detach- 
ments of  dragoons  and  volunteers  brought  up  the 
rear.  Such  a  long  line  of  march,  in  which  the  various 
detachments  were  many  miles  apart,  promised  to 
facilitate  the  procuring  of  fuel,  water,  and  grass 
along  the  route. 

Buoyant  hopes  and  amusing  scenes  at  first  dis- 
pelled visions  of  the  hardships  and  toil  which  lay 
before  the  troops.  The  army  mules  refused  to  ad- 
vance and  the  dragoon  horses  needed  much  urging 
to  pull  the  heavy  brass  six-pounders  and  the  how- 
itzers. ''Amidst  the  fluttering  of  banners,"  wrote  a 
volunteer,  ''the  sounding  of  the  bugles,  the  rattling 
of  artillery,  the  clattering  of  sabres,  and  cooking 
utensils,  some  of  the  horses  took  fright  and  scamp- 


144      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

ered,  pell-mell,  with  rider  and  arms,  over  the  wide 
prairie.  Rider,  arms  and  accoutrements,  saddles 
and  saddle-bags,  tin-cups,  and  coffee-pots,  were 
sometimes  left  far  behind  in  the  chase." 

The  forward  movement  of  about  forty-three  miles 
brought  the  squadrons  to  the  Santa  Fe  road  and  the 
familiar  country  witnessed  by  the  dragoons  was 
then  in  the  full  bloom  of  summer.  They  passed 
groves  of  oak,  and  near  Stranger  River  the  woods 
were  skirted  by  hazel,  plum  trees,  and  grape  vines; 
prairie  chickens  and  quail  whirred  away  in  alarm. 
They  crossed  the  Kansas  River  in  boats;  were  at- 
tacked by  swarms  of  mosquitoes  and  then  consoled 
by  a  serenade  of  hooting  owls;  and  in  another  day 
they  pitched  their  tents  on  Wakarusa  Creek. 

Travelling  many  miles  in  advance  of  the  main 
body  of  the  army  the  dragoon  detachments  under 
Captains  Moore  and  Burgwin  and  Lieutenant  Noble 
rode  past  familiar  stations  on  the  Santa  Fe  road: 
110  Mile  Creek,  Big  John  Spring,  Diamond  Spring, 
and  Cottonwood  Creek  were  again  the  principal 
camping  places.  When  the  Arkansas  River  was 
reached  the  distance  measured  two  hundred  and 
fifty-three  miles  from  Fort  Leavenworth.  Far  be- 
hind several  companies  under  Colonel  Kearny 
formed  the  rear  of  the  marching  line. 

By  this  time  the  "Army  of  the  West"  stretched 
over  a  distance  of  perhaps  one  hundred  miles  on  the 
Santa  Fe  road.  An  observer  might  have  seen  droves 
of  cattle,  company  after  company  of  volunteers, 
scores  of  wagons  stocked  with  flour,  pork,  and  salt, 


ARMY  OF  THE  WEST  145 

and  well-mounted  dragoons  whose  guns  and  sabres 
glinted  in  the  sun.  At  other  places  there  were  noisy 
drivers  whose  wagons  carried  blankets,  tents,  and 
ammunition.  And  from  early  morning  until  late  at 
night  there  could  be  heard  the  tramp  of  horses,  the 
jingling  of  spurs,  and  the  clanking  of  sabres. 

A  topographical  engineer,  however,  records  other 
scenes :  the  early  morning  dew  was  quickly  dispelled 
by  the  broiling  July  sun;  swarms  of  grasshoppers 
and  crickets  hummed  in  the  prairie  grass  over  which 
gaudy  butterflies  flitted  among  the  flowers;  gnats, 
horse-flies,  and  mosquitoes  were  allied  to  torment; 
rattlesnakes  were  killed  in  camp  and  the  blow-flies 
infested  the  blankets;  there  were  plover,  crows, 
hawks,  doves,  thrushes,  kingbirds,  grouse,  and 
screaming  king-fishers;  wallows  and  bois  de  vache 
indicated  old  buffalo  haunts ;  and  in  the  evening  were 
heard  the  dismal  howls  of  the  sentinel  wolves. 

For  three  weeks  the  invading  column  skirted 
along  the  Arkansas  Eiver,  and  the  detachments  set- 
tled into  the  routine  monotony  of  prairie  travel. 
They  passed  over  buffalo  grass,  sand  hills,  and  bar- 
ren ridges  parched  by  the  summer  heat.  Although 
the  dragoons  were  far  in  advance  of  the  main  army. 
Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert,  an  engineer,  described  from 
day  to  day  the  scenes  and  experiences  as  the  army 
marched  along  the  trail.  On  Saturday,  July  11th, 
the  start  was  made  at  half  past  three  in  the  morning 
and  on  the  next  day  the  encampment  was  near  Cow 
Creek.  On  July  19th  the  stop  was  at  Jackson  Grove. 
Dusky  wolves  prowled  about  the  camps  and  great 

11 


146      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

herds  of  buffalo  were  common  sights.  Another 
soldier  recorded  that  the  men  "killed  plenty  of  buf- 
falo, elk,  antelope  and  deer,  and  brought  in  quantities 
of  the  grape  plum,  ripe  and  of  excellent  flavor. ' ' 

''This  day",  writes  Lieutenant  Abert  on  July 
20th,  "we  made  a  march  of  31>^  miles,  passing  along 
the  top  of  a  barren  ridge,  between  one  and  two  miles 
from  the  river.  Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  the  curly 
buffalo  grass,  now  parched  by  the  summer's  heat. 
The  sun  poured  down  his  rays  most  lavishly;  the 
men  all  dismounted  and  walked,  in  order  to  rest  and 
to  relieve  themselves  from  the  singular  sensation 
produced  by  the  heat.  First  one  and  then  another  of 
the  party  became  ill,  and  several  were  seized  with  a 
severe  vomiting." 

The  last  days  of  July,  1846,  enabled  the  regiment 
to  advance  about  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles 
along  the  north  bank  of  the  Arkansas  River,  in  an 
almost  voiceless  desolation  of  sagebrush,  sand  hills, 
and  prairie.  Camp  rumors  became  more  frequent 
when  the  enemy's  country  was  finally  invaded;  the 
sick  list  increased  daily;  and  many  horses  failed  and 
were  devoured  by  the  wolves.  Three  Mexican  spies 
were  captured,  and  after  having  them  conducted 
through  the  entire  camp  Colonel  Kearny  allowed 
them  to  retire  to  Santa  Fe  to  report  all  that  they  had 
seen.  Three  dragoon  detachments  which  had  been 
vainly  pursuing  the  Mexican  traders  rejoined  the 
main  army  on  July  30th. 

When  the  army  encamped  near  Bent's  Fort  late 
in  July  the  dragoons  could  recall  that  exactly  a  year 


ARMY  OF  THE  WEST  147 

before  they  had  visited  the  post.  A  respite  of  three 
days  was  allowed  and  a  thousand  horses  closely 
guarded  were  turned  loose  to  recuperate  upon  the 
prairies.  Parkman,  the  historian,  visited  the  post  a 
few  weeks  later  and  recorded  that  for  miles  around 
the  grass  had  been  cropped  by  the  horses  of  Colonel 
Kearny's  army.  "It  seemed  as  if  a  swarm  of  locusts 
had  invaded  the  country.  "^^^  The  Colonel  fearing  a 
scarcity  of  provisions  reduced  the  soldier's  daily 
ration  to  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  three-eighths  of  a 
pound  of  pork.  ''This",  wrote  a  volunteer,  "de- 
prived us  of  coffee,  sugar,  salt,  rice,  &c.,  which  had 
previously  helped  to  make  our  provisions  palatable. 
Now,  our  meals  will  consist  of  dough,  if  a  simple 
mixture  of  flour  and  water  deserves  that  name,  fried 
in  grease,  or  else  what  we  used  to  call  flapjacks,  this 
being  a  thin  variation  of  the  aforesaid  dough,  poured 
into  a  hot  frying-pan." 

From  the  tops  of  the  houses  Mexican  girls  and 
Indian  squaws  watched  Colonel  Kearny's  army  de- 
part for  the  conquest  of  Santa  Fe  while  the  Amer- 
ican flag  at  the  post  was  raised  in  salute  to  the 
passing  columns.  Leaving  behind  the  sick  teamsters, 
dragoons,  and  volunteers,  the  regiment  moved  up 
Timpas  Creek  and  soon  crossed  Purgatory  River. 
Disease,  insufficient  food,  and  the  burning  sun 
brought  suffering  enough.  "Almost  every  day", 
said  a  private,  "some  dragoon  or  volunteer,  trader, 
teamster,  or  amateur,  who  had  set  out  upon  the 
expedition  buoyant  with  life  and  flattered  with  hopes 
of  future  usefulness,  actuated  by  a  laudable  desire 


148      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

to  serve  his  country,  found  a  grave  on  the  solitary 
plains." 

The  trail  of  the  regiment  was  marked  by  about 
fifteen  camps  on  the  way  from  Bent's  Fort  to  Santa 
Fe.  Camp  36  on  August  7  was  at  an  altitude  of  7700 
feet.  On  the  next  day  Captain  Sumner  drilled  the 
dragoons  and  made  an  imposing  show  for  the  volun- 
teers. On  the  11th  the  dragoons  led  the  army  across 
valleys  and  variegated  scenes  for  a  distance  of 
thirty-two  miles  and  then  encamped  on  the  Ocate 
Eiver.  A  few  days  later  messengers  arrived  from 
Fort  Leavenworth  bringing  newspapers,  letters,  and 
the  report  that  Colonel  Kearny  had  been  promoted 
to  the  rank  of  a  brigadier  general  on  June  30th. 

Descending  the  valley  of  Moro  (now  Coyote) 
Creek  the  soldiers  beheld  the  first  settlements  seen 
on  a  march  of  775  miles.  Mistaking  the  pine  stakes 
of  a  distant  corral  for  Mexicans,  the  dragoons  were 
sadly  disappointed  not  to  enjoy  a  fight  or  a  chase. 
American  residents  then  visited  the  troops  and  a 
refugee  from  Santa  Fe  warned  the  dragoon  com- 
mander that  General  Manuel  Armijo  was  fortifying 
a  pass  fifteen  miles  from  that  city.  On  July  15th  the 
soldiers  entered  the  little  village  of  Vegas  (Las 
Vegas)  and  heard  of  a  Mexican  force  of  six  hundred 
men  who  were  guarding  a  pass  two  miles  distant. 
The  trumpeters  sounded  "to  horse",  the  colors  were 
unfurled,  the  drooping  nags  revived,  and  then  the 
gorge  was  charged.  But  not  a  person  was  to  be 
seen  and  the  soldiers,  again  disappointed,  resumed 
the  monotonous  march  toward  Santa  Fe. 


ARMY  OF  THE  WEST  149 

Thus  day  after  day  rumor  and  exaggeration  came 
into  the  American  camp,  and  the  reports  increased 
as  the  column  moved  forward.  The  soldiery  heard 
that  two  thousand  Mexicans  were  guarding  the  pass 
and  later  a  messenger  declared  that  "Armijo  and 
his  troops  have  gone  to  hell,  and  the  Canon  is  all 
clear."  On  August  17th  the  command  halted  at 
Pecos,  an  ancient  village  formerly  fortified,  which 
was  about  thirty  miles  from  Santa  Fe.  New  horses 
and  mules  were  ordered  for  the  artillery  and  the 
entire  army  braced  itself  for  the  final  dash  to  the 
Mexican  city. 

To  the  volunteers  and  the  dragoons  accustomed 
for  weeks  to  the  dreary  march  across  the  plains  the 
sight  of  the  Mexican  settlements  must  have  been 
refreshing.  Corn  fields  and  gardens,  droves  of 
swine,  herds  of  cattle,  and  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats 
evidenced  the  prosperity  among  the  natives.  As  the 
army  passed  village  after  village,  men,  women,  boys, 
and  girls  came  to  the  regiment  to  sell  vegetables, 
bread,  milk,  cheese,  fruits,  pepper,  and  chickens.  In 
a  short  time  these  natives  had  drained  most  of  the 
specie  from  the  pockets  of  the  American  soldiers. 

All  opposition  to  the  advance  of  the  army  van- 
ished as  the  columns  neared  Santa  Fe  and  promises 
of  a  friendly  reception  came  from  the  acting  gov- 
ernor, Juan  B.  Vigil.  On  August  18,  1846,  General 
Kearny's  troops  entered  the  city;  the  American  flag 
was  raised;  and  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns  echoed 
down  the  canyon.  On  the  next  day  General  Kearny 
assembled  the  people  and  announced  to  them  that 


150      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

they  were  now  living  under  tlie  American  rule. 
Thus  without  firing  a  shot,  and  after  a  fifty  days' 
march  of  nearly  nine  hundred  miles,  an  extensive 
province  containing  perhaps  100,000  people  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  United  States. 


XV 

THE  CAMPAIGN  TO  CALIFORNIA 

Califoenia  next  became  the  goal  of  General  Kearny 
in  his  western  campaigns.  Late  in  1846  he  com- 
menced his  thousand-mile  march  from  Santa  Fe  to 
San  Diego  for  the  purpose  of  capturing  another 
province.^^^  His  force  of  about  a  hundred  dragoons, 
detached  from  the  "Army  of  the  West",  cooperated 
with  the  American  force  on  the  Pacific  coast  and 
thereby  added  another  chapter  of  campaigns  to  the 
history  of  the  First  Regiment  of  United  States 
Dragoons. 

After  setting  up  the  machinery  of  the  new  Amer- 
ican government  and  making  several  excursions 
from  Santa  Fe  to  distant  parts  of  the  province,  on 
September  25,  1846,  General  Kearny  with  three  hun- 
dred dragoons  began  the  long  journey  to  California. 
The  whole  command  was  mounted  on  mules,  while 
ox-teams  dragged  the  heavy  mountain  howitzers  and 
the  ammunition  and  supply  wagons.  Lieutenant 
Emory,  whose  detachment  of  topographical  engi- 
neers accompanied  the  dragoons,  kept  a  daily  jour- 
nal of  the  scenery,  the  geology,  the  meteorology,  and 
the  events  along  the  course. 

The  Rio  Grande  River  having  been  reached  in 

151 


152      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

about  three  days,  General  Kearny  for  over  two 
weeks  followed  this  twisting  stream  for  a  distance 
of  about  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  At  the 
little  Mexican  village  of  Zandia  the  troops  engaged 
in  a  brisk  trade  in  horses;  and  at  Albuquerque 
Lieutenant  Emory  found  the  wife  of  Governor 
Manuel  Armijo  sitting  on  an  ottoman,  smoking.  Re- 
ports of  Navajo  uprisings  came  to  the  camp;  strag- 
gling villages  were  passed;  and  the  troops  flushed 
myriads  of  brant,  geese,  and  crane  in  their  daily 
descent  of  the  stream. 

Ten  miles  below  Socorro  the  dragoon  column  met 
Kit  Carson  returning  from  California  bearing 
despatches  to  Washington  which  described  the  recent 
conquest  of  that  province  by  Fremont  and  Commo- 
dore Stockton.  ''The  general  told  him",  wrote  a 
dragoon  captain,  "he  would  relieve  him  of  all  re- 
sponsibility, and  place  the  mail  in  the  hands  of  a 
safe  person,  to  carry  it  on ;  he  finally  consented,  and 
turned  his  face  to  the  west  again,  just  as  he  was  on 
the  eve  of  entering  the  settlements,  after  his  arduous 
trip,  and  when  he  had  set  his  hopes  on  seeing  his 
family.  It  requires  a  brave  man  to  give  up  his  pri- 
vate feelings  thus  for  the  public  good ;  but  Carson  is 
one  such !  honor  to  him  for  it ! " 

The  General  then  issued  an  order  to  reduce  the 
command  to  one  hundred  men,  and  companies  B,  G, 
and  I  were  led  back  to  Santa  Fe.  The  best  wagons 
and  the  finest  teams  were  surrendered  for  the  toil- 
some trip  to  the  Far  West.  Thomas  Fitzpatrick 
then  left  for  Washington  and  Carson  retraced  his 


CAIVEPAIGN  TO  CALIFORNIA  153 

steps  to  California.  Dragoon  comrades  parted  here, 
little  knowing  that  some  would  never  meet  again  and 
that  the  military  careers  of  some  would  end  with 
honor  in  California,  New  Mexico,  or  at  Cerro  Gordo. 

The  mule  teams  toiled  down  the  pathless  valley 
of  the  Rio  Grande  dragging  the  wagons  and  the  two 
howitzers.  Carson  insisted  that  the  command  could 
not  reach  Los  Angeles  in  four  months.  Then  after 
the  command  encamped,  a  messenger  was  sent  to 
order  Major  Sumner  to  send  back  pack  saddles  and 
to  return  for  the  horses.  "Marched  at  a  quarter 
before  9,"  wrote  a  dragoon  on  October  14th,  ''and 
got  off  pretty  well,  as  we  had  almost  a  pack  for 
every  person ;  all  were  busy  to  the  hour  of  starting, 
from  the  general  down;  but  our  pack-saddles  were 
bad  and  our  lash  ropes  worse;  with  a  few  cases  of 
kicking  and  no  accidents,  we  made  our  march  down 
the  river,  (17  miles,)". 

Forsaking  the  Rio  Grande  River  at  last,  the  de- 
tachment veered  toward  the  southwest  and  moved 
over  a  tortuous  course  of  valleys,  mountains, 
streams,  and  stunted  timber.  Marches  began  at 
eight  in  the  morning  and  throughout  the  day  Kit 
Carson  guided  the  mules  and  the  howitzer  teams. 
Apaches  came  to  camp,  but  a  dragoon  officer  re- 
marked that  ''trading  mules  is  dull  work."  On 
October  20,  1846,  General  Kearny's  force  arrived  at 
the  banks  of  the  Gila  River, 

For  a  month  the  little  detachment  travelled  down 
the  valley  of  this  stream  for  a  distance  of  about  four 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.    The  routes  were  difficult  in 


154      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

the  extreme:  the  mules  stumbled  up  and  down  the 
ascents  on  insecure  footings ;  deep  gullies  gashed  the 
banks  of  the  stream ;  and  the  troops  wound  through 
canyons,  over  mountains,  and  then  passed  under 
overhanging  cliffs.  "The  whole  days  journey", 
wrote  Lieutenant  Emory  on  November  8th,  "was 
through  a  canyon,  and  the  river  was  crossed  twelve 
or  fifteen  times.  The  sand  was  deep,  and  occasion- 
ally the  trail  was  much  obstructed  by  pebbles  of 
paving-stone.  The  willow  grew  so  densely  in  many 
places  as  to  stop  our  progress,  and  oblige  us  to  look 
for  spots  less  thickly  overgrown,  through  which  we 
could  break." 

Soldiers  looked  upon  the  drear  remains  of  old 
Indian  villages.  The  mules  dragging  the  howitzers 
mounted  on  wheels  ten  feet  in  circumference  were 
failing  fast.  Apaches  visited  the  dragoon  camps  to 
barter,  to  beg,  and  to  steal.  Kit  Carson  remarked 
that  he  "would  not  trust  one  of  them."  The  troops 
chased  wild  hogs,  feasted  on  teal  and  quail,  flushed 
swarms  of  geese  and  turkeys,  and  now  and  then 
brought  down  mountain  sheep  and  deer.  Taran- 
tulas, scorgions,  and  lizards  lurked  among  the  rocks 
and  the  sagebrush.  Mirages  further  distorted  the 
landscape  of  the  rugged  horizon.  Thus  day  by  day 
and  amid  such  scenes  the  column  moved  toward  the 
West. 

Arriving  at  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and  the 
Colorado  rivers  on  about  November  22nd,  General 
Kearny  discovered  the  fresh  tracks  of  horses,  and 
soon  a  squad  of  troops  found  a  party  of  Mexicans 


CAI^EPAIGN  TO  CALIFORNIA  155 

with  four  or  five  hundred  horses  on  their  way  to 
Sonora.  From  the  Mexicans  were  purchased  a  num- 
ber of  wild  horses  which  were  intended  to  replace 
the  old  worn  mounts  destined  soon  to  die  on  the 
desert.  On  November  25th  the  troops,  still  guided 
by  Kit  Carson,  forded  the  chilly  waters  of  the  Colo- 
rado, and  emerged  in  what  is  now  the  State  of 
California. 

Barrenness  and  desolation  reigned  supreme 
throughout  the  miles  travelled  in  the  next  week. 
Day  after  day  the  dragoon  horses  and  mules  waded 
through  sands  covered  with  soft  mussel  shells  and 
the  vegetation  of  the  desert.  Some  of  the  worn  and 
jaded  animals  were  left  behind  to  die  of  thirst  and 
hunger.  On  a  hot  November  day  the  animals  in- 
flated with  water  and  rushes  gave  way  by  scores. 
*'It  was  a  feast  day  for  the  wolves,  which  followed 
in  packs  close  on  our  tract,  seizing  our  deserted 
brutes  and  making  the  air  resound  with  their  howls 
as  they  battled  for  the  carcasses." 

But  the  ragged  blue-coats  pushed  on  though  the 
sharp  thorns  had  reduced  the  soldiers  to  almost  bare 
legs.  The  command  on  November  30th  was  over 
eighteen  hundred  miles  from  Fort  Leavenworth; 
rations  were  exhausted  and  an  entire  horse  was  con- 
sumed with  great  relish.  "Our  men  were  inspected 
to-day,"  wrote  Captain  Johnston.  "Poor  fellows! 
they  are  well  nigh  naked  —  some  of  them  barefoot 
—  a  sorry  looking  set.  A  dandy  would  think  that,  in 
those  swarthy,  sun-burnt  faces,  a  lover  of  his  country 
will  see  no  signs  of  quailing. ' ' 


156      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Hungry  and  exhausted  the  force  arrived  at 
Warner's  ranch  on  December  2,  1846;  and  there 
seven  men  at  a  single  meal  ate  a  fat,  full  grown 
sheep.  Fifteen  miles  beyond,  General  Kearny  came 
to  San  Isabel,  the  ranch  of  an  Englishman  named 
Edward  Stokes,  who  reported  that  San  Diego  was  in 
the  possession  of  Commodore  Stockton's  naval 
force.  On  the  5th  the  dragoons  came  to  Santa 
Maria,  another  ranch,  where  they  were  met  by  a  de- 
tachment of  thirty-nine  men  from  San  Diego.  Nine 
miles  distant,  reported  these  men,  a  force  of  Mex- 
icans was  encamped;  and  so  Lieutenant  Hammond's 
party  was  sent  ahead  to  reconnoitre. 

In  a  short  time  the  enemy  was  discovered  and 
located  at  San  Pascual,  an  old  Indian  village.  At 
about  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  December  6, 
1846,  the  call  to  horse  was  sounded,  and  a  motley 
column  of  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  men  moved 
toward  the  camp  of  Captain  Andres  Pico.  A  driz- 
zling rain  had  soaked  the  men's  clothing,  and  the 
troops  shivered  in  the  cold.  Mules  and  horses  were 
stiff  and  worn  from  the  long  journey,  or  were  un- 
broken and  unmanageable.  Captain  Johnston's 
twelve  troops  formed  the  advance  guard,  while  the 
forces  of  Captain  Moore,  Lieutenant  Hammond,  and 
Captains  Archibald  H.  Gillespie  and  Gibson  fol- 
lowed. Farther  in  the  rear  two  howitzers,  a  field 
piece,  and  the  baggage  carts  jolted  over  the  uneven 
ground. 

A  sharp  engagement  of  about  ten  minutes  ensued. 
After  the  first  musket  fire  came  a  fight  at  close 


CAMPAIGN  TO  CALIFORNIA  157 

range.  *'It  was  sabre  against  lance  —  sabres  and 
clubbed  guns  in  the  hands  of  dragoons  and  volun- 
teers mounted  on  stupid  mules  or  half-broken  horses 
against  lances,  the  enemy's  favorite  weapons,  in  the 
hands  of  the  world's  most  skilful  horsemen."  When 
the  two  howitzers  were  brought  up  the  enemy  began 
to  flee,  but  the  dragoons  could  not  follow  up  the  pur- 
suit. The  mules  dragging  one  of  the  howitzers  took 
sudden  flight  and  dashed  wildly  toward  the  retreat- 
ing enemy  who  soon  captured  the  man  in  charge  of 
the  gun. 

About  eighteen  men  were  killed  and  about  the 
same  number  were  wounded.  Captain  Johnston, 
who  just  a  week  before  had  declared  that  the  men 
''will  be  ready  for  their  hour  when  it  comes",  was 
killed  by  a  rifle-ball.^^^  A  Mexican  lance  thrust 
ended  the  life  of  Captain  Moore,  and  Lieutenant 
Hammond  likewise  died  from  the  effects  of  such  a 
Mexican  weapon.  General  Kearny  was  wounded  in 
two  places,  and  Captain  Gibson  in  three  places. 
Others  received  from  two  to  ten  lance  wounds, 
mostly  when  unhorsed  and  incapable  of  resistance. 

That  night  the  Americans  encamped  on  the  battle 
ground  of  San  Pascual.^^^  "When  night  closed  in," 
wrote  a  lieutenant,  ''the  bodies  of  the  dead  were 
buried  under  a  willow  to  the  east  of  our  camp,  with 
no  other  accompaniment  than  the  howling  of  myriads 
of  wolves,  attracted  by  the  smell.  Thus  were  put  to 
rest  together,  and  forever,  a  band  of  brave  and 
heroic  men.  The  long  march  of  2,000  miles  had 
brought  our  little  command,  both  officers  and  men  to 


158      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

know  each  other  well.  Community  of  hardships, 
dangers,  and  privations,  had  produced  relations  of 
mutual  regard  which  caused  their  loss  to  sink  deeply 
in  our  memories." 

Sleep  was  impossible  that  night,  in  spite  of  the 
fatigues  of  the  day.  The  night  air  was  cold  and 
damp  and  the  ground  was  covered  with  cacti.  The 
thoughts  of  Sergeant  Thomas  Cox,  who  was  already 
in  the  agonies  of  death,  must  have  gone  back  to  Fort 
Leavenworth  where  a  few  months  before  he  had  left 
his  bride.  Provisions  were  exhausted,  mules  were 
worn  out,  horses  were  dead,  and  the  dragoons,  re- 
duced in  numbers,  were  ragged,  exhausted,  and 
emaciated.  "Day  dawned  on  the  most  tattered  and 
ill-fed  detachment  of  men  that  ever  the  United  States 
mustered  under  her  colors." 

The  depleted  command  moved  on,  bearing  the 
wounded  in  ambulances  which  grated  on  the  ground. 
Arriving  at  the  San  Bernardo  ranch  the  soldiers 
watered  their  horses  and  killed  some  chickens  for 
their  sick  comrades.  In  a  skirmish  a  squad  of  sol- 
diers drove  thirty  or  forty  Mexicans  from  a  hill 
where  they  had  been  disputing  General  Kearny's 
advance.  In  this  movement  the  Americans  lost  their 
cattle  and  the  next  day  were  compelled  to  kill  the 
fattest  mules  for  meat.  Fearing  to  advance  further, 
General  Kearny  halted ;  and  on  the  night  of  Decem- 
ber 8,  1846,  Lieutenant  Beale,  Kit  Carson,  and  an 
Indian,  at  the  risk  of  their  lives  volunteered  to  go  to 
San  Diego,  twenty-nine  miles  distant,  to  secure  re- 
inforcements. 


CAMPAIGN  TO  CALIFORNIA  159 

Two  days  later  the  Mexicans  attempted  to  stam- 
pede the  dragoon  animals  by  driving  towards  them 
a  band  of  wild  horses.  The  soldiers,  however,  dex- 
terously turned  off  the  animals,  killing  two  or  three 
of  the  fattest  on  which  the  command  feasted.  That 
night  Lieutenant  Gray  arrived  from  San  Diego  with 
one  hundred  tars  and  eighty  marines  who,  for  the 
rest  of  the  night  distributed  provisions  and  clothing 
to  the  ragged  and  hungry  dragoons. 

Continuing  the  march  General  Kearny  appropri- 
ated a  herd  of  cattle  abandoned  by  the  enemy.  Else- 
where the  troops  found  and  confiscated  sheep,  goats, 
turkeys,  chickens,  and  casks  of  wine.  On  December 
12,  1846,  they  came  in  view  of  the  adobe  houses  at 
San  Diego  and  the  post  which  overlooked  the  sur- 
rounding wastes.  To  the  w^est  lay  the  Pacific  Ocean 
and  along  a  promontory  the  troops  observed  the 
frigate  ''Congress"  and  the  sloop  "Portsmouth". 
Under  torrents  of  rain  the  dragoons  finished  their 
march  of  nineteen  hundred  miles  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth. 

Preparations  for  the  final  conquest  of  the  south- 
ern part  of  California  soon  followed.  On  December 
29,  1846,  a  conglomerate  regiment  consisting  of 
about  sixty  dragoons,  sailors,  marines,  and  volun- 
teers —  in  all  561  men  —  left  San  Diego.  The  regi- 
ment passed  ranches  and  one  mission  after  another 
without  resistance,  until  the  river  San  Gabriel  was 
reached  on  January  8,  1847,  when  a  shower  of  grape 
and  round  shot  splashed  around  the  troops  as  they 
crossed  the  stream.    A  shot  from  a  field  gun  there- 


160      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

upon  shattered  the  best  gun  of  the   Californians, 
who  retreated  among  the  nearby  hills. 

When  morning  came  the  enemy  was  nowhere  to 
be  seen.  The  march  was  again  continued ;  once  more 
the  troops  halted  to  scatter  the  Mexican  force  by 
rounds  of  grape  shot  from  the  American  artillery. 
On  the  10th  General  Kearny,  Commodore  Stockton, 
and  Captain  Archibald  Gillespie  entered  Los 
Angeles.  Three  days  later  the  dragoons  saw  the 
signing  of  a  treaty  of  submission  which  ended  their 
share  in  the  conquest  of  the  province  of  California, ^^"^ 


XVI 

MAJOR  WOODS'  VISIT  TO  THE  EED  RIVER 
OF  THE  NORTH 

A  MAECH  of  about  five  hundred  miles  across  the 
present  States  of  Minnesota  and  North  Dakota 
northwestwardly  from  Fort  Snelling  to  Pembina  on 
the  Red  River  of  the  North  constituted  the  activities 
of  a  company  of  dragoons  in  the  summer  of  1849.^*^ 
Major  Samuel  Woods  in  command  of  about  forty 
dragoons  had  been  directed  to  make  a  special  exam- 
ination of  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  His  orders 
directed  him  to  march  as  far  north  as  the  boundary 
of  the  United  States,  to  advise  with  respect  to  the 
best  location  of  a  military  post,  and  to  collect  infor- 
mation on  the  health,  subsistence,  and  the  facilities 
of  building  and  access.  ''You  will  also  collect  and 
report",  ran  the  Adjutant  General's  instructions, 
"all  the  information  you  can  obtain  of  the  number, 
character  and  habits  of  the  Indians  in  that  region, 
their  means  of  subsistence,  their  disposition  towards 
the  United  States,  and  the  influence  exerted  on  them 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  by  trade,  presents  or 
otherwise." 

Five  days  of  marching  along  the  east  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  for  a  distance  of  seventy-seven  miles 

12  161 


162      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

brought  the  detachment  to  the  Sauk  Rapids  on  June 
11th. ^^"^  Rain  fell  every  day,  and  men  and  horses 
splashed  through  the  mud.  The  heavy  wagons  and 
the  mountain  howitzer  tested  the  strength  of  the 
horses  and  tried  the  patience  of  the  drivers.  On  the 
next  day  the  dragoons  began  to  cross  the  Mississippi 
River,  but  on  account  of  the  incessant  rain  and  the 
high  winds  they  did  not  complete  their  passage  until 
the  following  day. 

Ascending  the  Sauk  River  valley ^^^  the  soldiers 
followed  the  Red  River  trail  toward  the  southwest. 
The  thickly  matted  turf  saturated  with  rains  com- 
pelled slow  marching.  "The  river",  described 
Major  Woods,  "was  much  swollen  by  the  heavy 
rains,  and  was  wide  and  deep.  We  launched  our 
ponton-wagon-beds  and  crossed  it,  and  encamped  on 
the  western  bank.  Between  this  and  Coldwater 
creek  we  had  to  make  two  bridges,  and  mired  down 
over  the  most  of  the  way,  going  only  five  miles  in 
two  days ;  many  little  places  detaining  us  for  hours, 
and  requiring  almost  the  constant  labor  of  our  men 
in  mud  and  water. ' ' 

The  prairies  in  the  full  bloom  of  summer  were 
broken  here  and  there  by  patches  of  timber  and  by 
numberless  clear  streams.  Day  after  day  the  route 
continued  in  a  northwesterly  direction  along  a  chain 
of  lakes.  Major  Woods  rested  his  horses  four  days 
and  repaired  broken  chains  and  wagons.  "The 
horse-fly  attacked  our  horses  here,  and  continued  for 
two  days  indescribably  fierce,  and  then  disap- 
peared. ' '    Near  a  sheet  of  water  during  an  electric 


ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OP  THE  NORTH        163 

storm  a  flash  of  lightning  struck  Lieutenant  J.  W.  T. 
Gardiner's  tent  and  the  accident  suggested  the  name 
''Lightning  Lake".  These  lakes,  framed  by  timber 
and  by  quantities  of  rushes,  teemed  with  bass  and 
perch,  and  some  of  the  soldiers  with  a  seine  caught 
more  than  the  command  could  consume. 

Drenching  rains  fell  during  the  four  days  en- 
campment on  "Bear  Lake"^^^  and  thunder  storms 
burst  forth  in  such  smashing  explosions  that  soldiers 
left  their  tents  in  terror.  At  other  times  they  could 
gaze  toward  the  dark  stretches  of  woods  through 
which  from  time  to  time  flashes  of  silent  heat  light- 
ning gleamed  from  afar.  Stately  swans  gazed  at 
these  unbidden  visitors  to  their  haunts ;  mosquitoes 
sometimes  attacked  the  camp;  and  possibly  the  air 
was  noisy  with  the  humming  of  insects  and  the 
chorus  of  frogs. 

"We  resumed  our  march  on  the  6th  of  July", 
records  the  leader  of  this  expedition.  Crossing  a 
broken  prairie,  the  troops  came  to  Chippewa  River 
near  which  an  elk  crossed  their  path.  At  "Elbow 
Lake"^^^  a  band  of  fifty  Chippewa  hunters  met 
them,  received  tobacco  presents,  and  then  gave  the 
soldiers  a  war  dance.  Five  miles  beyond  they  met 
the  advance  train  of  about  twenty-five  Red  River 
carts  in  charge  of  a  man  from  the  Red  River  settle- 
ment. These  carts  were  freighted  with  pemmican 
and  peltries  and  were  on  their  way  to  St.  Paul  and 
Galena.  There  goods  were  purchased  and  trans- 
ported to  Pembina,  where  the  traders  attempted  to 
smuggle   the   goods   into   the   English   settlements. 


164      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Soon  afterward  the  squadron  met  Mr.  Norman  W. 
Kittson,  the  agent  of  ''Chotian  June  &  Co."  estab- 
lished at  Pembina.  His  sixty-five  carts  were  loaded 
with  the  furs  of  a  season's  business. 

The  dragoons  next  crossed  the  Eed  Eiver  of  the 
North,  travelling  nearly  due  northwest.  On  the  west 
bank  Major  Woods  made  a  selection  of  a  site  for  a 
military  post.^^^  It  was  a  fertile  prairie  region 
abounding  in  luxuriant  grass  while  nearby  were  for- 
ests of  elm,  oak,  cottonwood,  ash,  and  maple.  The 
site  was  marked  by  an  upright  post  on  which  was 
indicated  the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
three  miles  to  Sauk  Rapids.  On  July  15,  1849,  the 
detachment  resumed  its  journey  down  the  Red  River 
Valley. 

About  eighty-eight  miles  of  marching  in  the  next 
six  days  carried  the  explorers  through  pleasant 
landscapes:  marshes,  long  stretches  of  luxuriant 
prairies  and  the  forest-shadowed  valleys  of  the  Wild 
Rice,  Sheyenne,  Rush,  and  Elm  rivers.  But  ever 
since  their  departure  from  the  Mississippi  swarms 
of  mosquitoes  had  increased  in  numbers  and  ferocity, 
''and  had  been  anathematized,  as  we  thought,  suf- 
ficiently for  their  perdition;  but  now  they  choked 
down  every  expression  that  would  consign  them  to 
the  shades." 

Torrents  of  rain  continued  to  fall  and  the  detach- 
ment continued  to  be  visited  by  "countless  numbers 
of  these  winged  insects  that  contemn  the  displeasure, 
and  sing  cheerily  over  the  tortures  of  their  victims. ' ' 
The  soldiers  ferried  rivers,  waded  through  the  water- 


ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH        165 

covered  prairies,  encamped  on  the  south  branch  of 
Goose  Eiver,  and  there  chased  a  herd  of  buffalo, 
killing  several.  About  one  hundred  miles  to  the 
northward  lay  the  Pembina  settlement. 

Day  after  day  these  dragoons  crossed  streams  — 
Turtle  River,  Park  River,  Tongue  River,  and  many 
other  nameless  branches  of  the  Red  River  of  the 
North.^^^  Major  Woods  with  a  soldier's  eye  exam- 
ined an  old  battle-ground  of  the  Sioux  and  Chip- 
pewas.  From  morning  till  night  the  soldiers  battled 
against  mosquitoes  and  in  the  evening  the  wind 
drove  them  against  the  tents  with  a  sound  like  that 
of  falling  rain.  ' '  Our  horses  were  almost  exhausted. 
The  constant  hard  pulling,  the  ravages  of  mosqui- 
toes, and  not  being  able  to  feed  in  quiet,  were  too 
much  for  them."  On  the  first  day  of  August  the 
command  joyfully  arrived  at  Pembina  near  the 
junction  of  the  Red  and  the  Pembina  rivers. 

''Pembina  is  the  natural  gate",  observed  Major 
Woods,  ''through  which  all  intercourse  between  the 
U.  S.  and  the  Hudson  Bay  territories  will  find  its 
passage."  Joe  Rolette,  a  fur  trader  left  in  charge 
of  Kittson's  establishment,  welcomed  the  dragoon 
force  and  tendered  the  use  of  his  houses.  But  to 
these  soldiers  the  spot  seemed  uninviting:  instead 
of  a  village  they  saw  nothing  but  Kittson's  trading- 
place  and  a  few  straggling  Indian  and  half-breed 
lodges.  A  mile  distant  Major  Woods  saw  the  two- 
story  Chippewa  schoolhouse,  the  chapel,  the  out- 
houses, and  the  luxuriant  garden  of  G.  A.  Belcourt, 
the  Catholic  missionary  in  the  Pembina  district. 


166      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Major  Woods  visited  and  marked  the  49tli  paral- 
lel, setting  up  a  post  bearing  the  date  '^  August  14, 
1849."  In  this  month  hundreds  of  Chippewas  began 
to  return  from  their  summer  hunts.  The  major  gave 
an  audience  to  this  staring  multitude,  the  leaders  of 
which  replied  to  the  dragoon  commander's  compli- 
ments. Then  upon  his  advice  ''Green  Feather", 
"End  of  the  Current",  and  "Long  Legs",  were 
selected  as  chiefs  and  each  given  a  medal.  After 
this  the  Indians  fired  a  salute  to  their  new  author- 
ities and  the  dragoons  replied  with  several  dis- 
charges from  the  mountain  howitzer. 

Major  Woods  found  in  the  Pembina  district 
about  one  thousand  half-breeds,  and  in  August  about 
one  hundred  of  their  hunters  visited  him.  They 
complained  of  the  competition  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  requested  that  better  means  of  com- 
munication be  established  with  the  States  and  that  a 
military  post  be  established  among  them.  The  dra- 
goon commander  urged  them  to  organize  their  band, 
to  elect  a  council,  and  vest  it  with  power  to  enforce 
order  and  harmony.  Nine  men  were  chosen  to  act 
as  a  committee  for  the  government  of  the  half-breed 
population  in  the  United  States. 

To  such  dragoon  officers  as  Lieutenants  Gardiner, 
A.  D.  Nelson,  Captain  John  Pope,  and  Dr.  Sykes 
these  weeks  among  the  half-breeds  afforded  interest- 
ing pictures.  They  possessed  a  few  hogs,  1500  cattle, 
300  work  horses,  150  horses  for  the  chase,  300  oxen, 
and  600  carts.  The  census  of  1850  showed  that  the 
population    of    1116    was    predominantly    French- 


ON  THE  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH        167 

Canadian,  and  nearly  all  tlie  able-bodied  men  gave 
their  occupations  as  that  of  a  hunter.^^^ 

Here  the  dragoon  officers  learned  more  about  the 
great  spring  and  fall  hunts  when  thousands  of  buf- 
falo were  slain.  From  three  to  five  hundred  hunters 
mounted  on  fine  horses  were  accompanied  by  their 
priest  and  by  their  wives  and  children  and  other 
helpers  whose  carts  creaked  and  rattled  over  the 
plains.  Now  and  then  a  badger  would  be  driven  to 
his  hole  or  a  gray  wolf  chased  away.  At  night  the 
corral  was  formed,  the  tents  raised,  the  camp-fires 
made,  and  the  horses  tended.  The  women  boiled 
the  water,  fried  pemmican,  cooked  potatoes,  and 
baked  the  bread.  Then  came  the  posting  of  the 
guard,  the  evening  pipes,  and  rest  before  the  next 
day's  hunt. 

These  half-breeds,  the  soldiers  observed,  were  a 
mild,  generous,  well-mannered  people.  '  *  The  great- 
er number",  wrote  their  indulgent  priest,  ''are  no 
friends  of  labor."  Indeed,  in  the  summer  evenings 
at  St.  Vincent  parish  in  Pembina  the  dimly  lighted 
log-houses  of  these  gay  folk  resounded  with  merri- 
ment. And  many  were  the  reels,  jigs,  and  quadrilles 
shuffled  to  the  shrieks  from  trembling  strings  of 
overworked  fiddles.  Nor  were  the  younger  couples 
alone  in  the  fun,  for  here  all  joined,  unmindful  of  the 
next  day's  toil  or  the  hardships  of  the  chase. ^^^ 

Major  Woods  examined  the  possible  military  ad- 
vantages of  the  region  at  Pembina.  Lieutenant 
Nelson  in  purchasing  forage  at  Fort  Garry,  sixty 
miles  below  Pembina,  found  there  a  force  of  about 


168      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

one  hundred  pensioners  of  the  British  army.  The 
decision  of  the  dragoon  officers  was  to  advise  against 
the  erection  of  a  post  at  Pembina. 

When  the  dragoons  left  Pembina  on  August  26th 
a  salute  was  fired  in  their  honor  by  the  half-breeds. 
The  detachment  returned  by  the  old  cart  road  east 
of  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  marching  over  the 
four  hundred  and  seventy-one  miles  at  the  rate  of 
over  twenty  miles  daily.  Frosts  after  September  1st 
affected  the  grass,  and  the  horses  weakened  until 
forage  was  secured  at  the  Sauk  Rapids.  ''We  were 
three  months  and  twelve  days  out,"  reported  Major 
Woods,  "travelled  nearly  a  thousand  miles  without 
forage  (with  the  exception  of  a  few  days),  had  the 
worst  of  roads,  rivers  to  swim  almost  daily,  and  the 
unceasing  annoyance  of  mosquitoes,  and  lost  but 
one  horse  and  one  mule.  The  horse  got  away  and 
could  not  be  recovered ;  the  mule  died. ' ' 


XVII 

SOLDIER  LIFE  AT  OLD  FORT 
LEAVENWORTH 

Brief  as  they  are  the  staid  Post  Records  of  the  Fort 
Leavenworth  of  sixty-five  to  seventy-five  years  ago 
reveal  some  of  the  sorrows  and  tragedies  at  this 
western  post.  Mindful  of  the  virtuous  reputation 
of  his  officers,  the  commandant  caused  a  severe 
reprimand  to  be  sent  to  Captain  Eustace  Trenor  of 
the  First  Dragoons ;  and  the  record  for  November  6, 
1849,  relumes  a  bit  of  old  regimental  scandal  about 
a  former  lieutenant  of  this  regiment.  Captain 
Boone's  letter  of  July  13,  1848,  reports  the  death  of 
the  commandant  of  the  post.  Lieutenant  Colonel 
Wharton,  "who  departed  this  life  at  this  place  at  12 
o'clock  last  night".  In  November,  1849,  the  name 
of  Mathias  S.  Baker  heads  a  mournful  list  of  ten 
soldiers  reported  dead.^^^ 

Order  number  89  of  May  14,  1849,  forbids  all 
persons  to  visit  the  pest-house;  Captain  Grier  is 
ordered  to  preside  at  a  court-martial;  and  two  pri- 
vates found  guilty  of  being  drunk  while  on  the  sick 
list  are  fined  and  sentenced  to  perform  twenty  extra 
hours  of  police  duty.  Another  private  was  found 
guilty  of  providing  spirituous  liquors  to  prisoners; 

169 


170      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

and  privates  James  O'Brien  and  Baldwin,  both  dra- 
goons, were  found  too  drunk  to  attend  drill.^^^ 

One  may  read,  too,  of  the  irregular  mails  from 
St.  Louis  to  the  fort;  of  the  granting  of  leaves  of 
absences ;  of  resignations ;  of  frequent  desertions ;  of 
promotions.  Side  excursions  of  sergeants'  details 
are  made  to  arrest  deserters;  a  dragoon  command 
under  Captain  R.  T.  Ewell  departs  for  Santa  Fe; 
there  is  a  fatal  stabbing  aifray,  and  a  soldier  is 
killed  who  did  not  answer  the  sentinel's  challenge; 
soldiers  return  to  the  fort  with  face  and  hands 
poisoned  on  the  long  marches  over  the  plains.  In 
July,  1850,  recruits  to  the  number  of  three  hundred 
and  twenty-nine  arrive  at  the  fort  bringing  the 
cholera  plague.  One  corpse  was  landed  from  the 
steamer ' '  St.  Paul ' ',  and  a  few  days  later  seven  more 
soldiers  sickened  and  died.  ' '  No  Doctor  can  be  hired 
here",  reported  Captain  Lovell,  ''and  Asst.  Surg. 
Langworthy  is  the  only  Medical  Officer  with  the 
command :  and  as  he  is  to  be  stationed  [at]  the  new 
Post  on  the  Arkansas,  I  take  it  for  granted  that 
another  Surgeon  will  be  ordered  to  join  the  detach- 
ment bound  for  Santa  Fe."^^^ 

A  soldier's  routine  of  duties  appears  in  an  order 
of  January  26,  1850.  Sleep  was  broken  by  the 
reveille  at  daybreak  and  fifteen  minutes  later  was 
followed  by  the  stable  call.  Then  came  the  sick  call 
at  7 :10,  and  the  call  to  breakfast  twenty  minutes 
thereafter.  Then  came  fatigue  call,  guard  mount- 
ing, and  orderly  call.  The  dinner  call  came  at  12  M., 
fatigue  call  again  at  1  P.  M.,  and  the  stable  call  at 


LIFE  AT  OLD  FORT  LEAVENWORTH        171 

1 :30.  Eetreat  at  sunset.  Tattoo  at  9 :00  P.  M.  meant 
rest  for  the  troops  —  except  for  the  sentinels  who 
kept  the  long  winter  night  watches. ^^^ 

Complaint  came  from  Colonel  Sumner  in  1851 
regarding  the  high  prices  paid  for  stores  and  sub- 
sistence for  the  post.  Greater  use,  he  urged,  should 
be  made  of  the  1400  acre  farm  at  the  post.  ' '  The  St. 
Louis  prices  of  corn  and  Oats  are  about  50  cts.  a 
bushel,"  he  writes  in  January,  1851,  "and  timothy 
hay  12  or  15  dolls,  a  ton;  the  corn  and  oats  can  be 
raised  at  this  farm  at  20  cts.  per  bushel  or  less,  and 
the  hay  will  cost  nothing  but  the  making  of  it  (say 
two  dollars  a  ton)  as  we  have  600  acres  of  timothy 
grass.  We  can  raise,  after  this  year  10,000  bushels 
of  wheat,  and  the  difference  between  St.  Louis  prices 
and  the  expense  of  raising  it,  would  be  several  thou- 
sand dollars.  We  can  reasonably  reckon  upon  rais- 
ing this  year,  from  23  to  25,000  bushels  of  corn  12000 
bushels  of  oats,  and  over  600  tons  of  timothy  hay. 
The  difference  between  white,  and  Indian  labor,  is 
very  great,  and  except  for  herdsmen  and  the  like,  it 
would  be  better  economy  to  employ  white  men.  If 
the  object  is,  in  part,  to  instruct  Indians  in  agri- 
culture, it  would  seem  to  be  unnecessary  here,  as  we 
are  surrounded  by  Mission,  and  Manual  labor  scholls 
[sic].  It  does  not  seem  to  be  contemplated  that  any 
stock  (Beef  and  Pork)  will  be  raised;  this  would  be 
very  profitable  and  would  not  interfere  with  the 
tillage  of  the  farm.  Our  Beef  now  costs  over  5,  and 
Pork  $5  a  hundred,  both  can  be  raised  here  for  less 
than  $2  a  hundred.    The  animals  would  be  herded  on 


172      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

the  praries  near  us,  during  the  summer,  and  brought 
upon  the  farm  in  the  winter,  where  the  fodder,  from 
the  immense  grain  fields,  would  subsist  a  great  num- 
ber of  them."^*'^ 

At  this  post  and  at  others  conflicts  between  the 
military  and  the  civil  population  arose  only  too 
often.  In  1846  Captain  Wharton  established  a  post 
on  Table  Creek  where  he  learned  that  ' '  several  per- 
sons have  squatted  on  it  by  some  doubtless  with  the 
intention  of  becoming  dealers  in  Whiskey  to  the  an- 
noyance of  the  Garrison  ".^^^  A  few  years  later 
Colonel  Sumner  was  protesting  that  a  justice  of  the 
county  court  of  Platte  at  Weston,  Missouri,  was  dis- 
charging soldiers  on  frivolous  and  illegal  pretenses. 
The  justice  held  that  some  soldiers  were  not  United 
States  citizens  when  they  enlisted,  that  others  had 
been  enlisted  for  mounted  service  but  had  been 
ordered  to  serve  on  foot,  that  soldiers  were  intoxi- 
cated when  recruited,  that  their  wives  were  not 
properly  provided  for  at  the  post,  and  finally  that 
they  had  been  converted  into  day  laborers  at  the 
fort.  ''The  discharges",  concluded  the  Colonel, 
''being  constantly  granted  for  the  above  causes,  are 
rapidly  reducing  the  strength  of  the  companies  at 
this  post,  and  unless  prompt  measures  are  taken  in 
the  matter,  men  enough  will  not  be  left  to  furnish  a 
guard  for  the  public  property.  "-'^*^ 

Traders,  pioneer  settlers,  and  western  emigrants 
in  visiting  or  in  passing  Fort  Leavenworth  not  in- 
frequently defied  the  military  authorities  or  assumed 
toward  them  a  patronizing  familiarity.    The  pioneer 


LIFE  AT  OLD  FORT  LEAVENWORTH        173 

travelling  in  wide  spaces  and  performing  unaided 
his  part  in  the  conquest  of  the  new  West  sometimes 
knew  little  or  cared  little  about  courts,  laws,  officials, 
and  respect  for  military  authorities.  It  must  have 
been  a  not  dissimilar  type  which  James  Russell 
Lowell  sympathetically  but  rather  truthfully  de- 
scribed as:^^^ 

This  browTi-fisted  rough,  this  shirt-sleeved  Cid, 
This  backwoods  Charlemagne  of  Empires  new, 
Who  meeting  Caesar's  self  would  slap  his  back, 
Call  him  "Old  Horse"  and  challenge  to  a  drink. 

Privates  were  paid  at  the  rate  of  eight  dollars 
per  month,  although  of  this  amount  one  dollar  was 
retained  each  month  by  the  paymaster.  Wonders 
were  accomplished  with  these  few  dollars  in  pur- 
chasing delicacies  for  the  mess  tables,  and  the  Mis- 
souri hucksters  carried  on  a  flourishing  business 
among  the  soldiery.  Too  often,  however,  these  dol- 
lars were  spent  at  "Whiskey  Point",  a  not  too 
respectable  ale-house  located  a  mile  above  the  fort 
and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Missouri  River. 
There  anything  could  be  traded  for  whiskey ;  and  not 
infrequently  a  soldier  would  trade  his  overcoat  and 
then  suffer  greatly  during  some  of  the  winter 
marches  over  the  snow-covered  plains.^^^ 

Courts-martial  and  punishments  were  frequent 
enough  in  the  summer  of  1849.  Corporal  John  W. 
Corser  was  guilty  of  highly  ''unsoldierlike  conduct" 
for  exclaiming  to  Captain  Perry:  "Damn  you  sir,  I 
did  answer  to  my  name."  Another  trooper  was 
drunk  on  parade,  with  clothes  and  equipment  in  bad 


174      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

order,  and  for  fifteen  days  was  compelled  to  live  in  a 
cell  on  bread  and  water.  Privates  O'Brien  and 
Baldwin  were  fined  five  dollars  for  being  absent 
without  leave.  Another  sentence  compelled  a  luck- 
less soldier  to  walk  in  front  of  the  guard  house  and 
to  carry  a  weight  of  thirty  pounds  two  out  of  every 
three  hours.^*'^  A  year  later,  in  May,  1850,  a  culprit 
might  have  been  seen  carrying  two  weights  or  balls 
and  resting  only  one  hour  for  each  meal  between 
reveille  and  tattoo.^'^'* 

But  other  and  more  welcome  glimpses  of  the  post 
and  its  activities  as  they  appeared  about  sixty-five 
years  ago  are  preserved  in  old  records  and  rem- 
iniscences. For  months  late  in  1849  a  company  of 
recruits  from  Carlisle,  Pennsylvania,  had  been  on  the 
way  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  but  not  until  Christmas 
day  did  the  flag  and  the  buildings  loom  into  view. 
Edward  Brydon,  the  Irish  trumpeter,  sounded  the 
retreat,  the  ranks  were  closed,  the  roll  was  called, 
and  in  good  order  the  troops  marched  in  front  of 
Colonel  Sumner's  quarters.  After  standing  at  atten- 
tion and  hearing  their  names  checked  off,  the  recruits 
were  marched  to  their  quarters.^*^^ 

Hungry  as  they  were  these  travel-tired  troops 
did  not  gormandize  that  evening  at  the  Christmas 
dinner.  Filing  into  the  dining-room,  they  found  a 
table  piled  high  with  bread  and  boiled  pork  cut  in 
slices.  Each  man  passed  his  tin-cup  to  be  filled  from 
a  big  kettle  of  steaming  coffee.  "The  British  de- 
serter", wrote  a  guest  at  this  rude  feast,  "had  been 
supplied  with   whiskey   since   his   arrival,   and   he 


LIFE  AT  OLD  FORT  LEAVENWORTH        175 

officiated  in  handing  each  man  his  ration,  taking  a 
slice  of  pork,  putting  it  on  a  slice  of  bread  and  hand- 
ing it  to  the  nearest  man  —  a  Christmas  dinner  long 
to  be  remembered.  "^^"^ 

Troop  K  had  a  goodly  number  of  scholars,  some 
good  singers,  and  a  smattering  of  theatrical  talent. 
A  Thespian  Society  was  organized,  and  once  a  week 
during  February  and  March  in  1850  men  like  Kim- 
ball, Glennon,  Rogers,  Miller,  Hill,  O'Shea,  and 
*' Little"  Duffy  gave  performances  in  the  dining- 
room.  Nor  did  the  officers  and  ladies  at  the  post  fail 
to  attend  some  of  these  exhibitions  and  entertain- 
ments.^*''^ 

It  is  not  difficult  to  fancy  the  scenes  in  the  pri- 
vates' barracks  during  the  long  winter  evenings  of 
about  sixty-five  years  ago.  Before  the  crackling 
log-fires  were  such  privates  as  Talbot,  WorreT, 
McKenzie,  and  Fox  —  all  veterans  of  the  Mexican 
War.  There  was  Miller,  an  Englishman,  who  had 
been  a  teacher  and  was  master  of  several  languages. 
O'Shea,  a  graduate  of  Dublin  University,  was  the 
champion  boxer  of  the  garrison.  Congenial  com- 
panionships, practical  jokes,  reading  in  the  post 
library,  and  the  twice-told  tales  of  comrades  in  arms 
—  such  constituted  some  of  the  more  pleasant  winter 
evening  scenes  at  the  post.-^^ 

But  elsewhere,  too,  there  were  not  lacking  scenes 
of  merriment  and  good  fellowship.  A  large  two- 
story  frame  structure  with  front  and  back  porches 
and  a  stone  basement  contained  the  quarters  of  the 
unmarried  officers  and  was   rightly  named  ''Bed- 


176      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

lam".  ^'  'Twas  here",  wrote  an  old  dragoon,  ''they 
fought  their  battles  o'er,  from  West  Point  and  the 
girls  they  left  behind  them,  through  the  swamps  of 
Florida,  the  wilds  of  Texas,  over  the  great  plains, 
the  mountains,  on  the  Pacific  Slope  and  the  fields  of 
Mexico.  'Twas  here  they  met  after  tedious  cam- 
paigns, recounted  their  triumphs,  disappointments 
and  hardships;  through  heat,  cold,  hunger  and  dis- 
ease —  and  now  the  feast,  if  not  always  of  reason,  at 
least  the  flow  of  soul  —  and  other  things.  "^^^ 

The  simple  features  and  homely  charms  of  this 
old  Missouri  River  post  have  disappeared  in  the 
modern  fort  with  its  commodious  barracks,  the 
stately  War  College,  the  huge  cavalry  stables,  the 
motion-picture  building,  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  quarters, 
and  the  great  disciplinary  barracks  containing  their 
numbered  inmates  and  frowningly  overlooking  the 
Missouri  River.  But  the  old  Post  Records  are  still 
there  and  yield  their  meager  history;  while  the 
names  of  Kearney  Avenue,  Sumner  Place,  and 
Buford  Avenue  seem  to  preserve  the  memories  of 
soldiers  who  knew  the  fort  when  the  West  was  still 
wild. 

One  day  in  the  spring  of  1915  the  writer  was 
examining  the  old  Post  Records  in  the  summary 
court-martial  room  at  Fort  Leavenworth.  An  officer, 
presumably  a  captain  of  infantry,  entered,  followed 
by  a  boyish-looking  private.  The  officer  sat  down, 
but  the  soldier  stood  rigidly  at  attention.  "You 
are  charged",  he  read,  ''with  having  been  absent 


LIFE  AT  OLD  FORT  LEAVENWORTH        177 

from  drill  in  May  two  weeks  ago.  Are  you  guilty  or 
not  guilty?"  The  private  confessed  guilt  and  ex- 
plained that  he  had  been  out  with  the  ''bunch"  and 
had  crossed  over  into  Missouri.  There  the  soldiers 
had  secured  liquor,  and  he  had  become  too  intoxi- 
cated to  perform  his  military  duties  the  following 
day. 

This  scene  brought  back  visions  of  Old  Fort 
Leavenworth  —  the  Old  Fort  Leavenworth  of 
seventy-five  years  ago. 


13 


APPENDIX 


179 


APPENDIX 

CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  OF  AN  EXPE- 
DITION OVER  THE  WESTERN  PRAIRIES 

INTRODUCTION 

The  documents  printed  below  are  in  the  office  of 
the  Adjutant  General  of  the  United  States  Army  at 
Washington.  All  the  material  is  based  upon  photo- 
stat prints  secured  by  The  State  Historical  Society 
of  Iowa  and  consists  of  the  following  documents: 

(1)  a  map  illustrating  the  route  of  the  dragoons; 

(2)  Brigadier  General  Zachary  Taylor's  letter  of 
transmittal;  (3)  Captain  Boone's  report;  and  (4) 
Captain  Boone's  Journal.  The  map  is  not  repro- 
duced in  this  appendix  and  drawings  and  illustra- 
tions in  the  body  of  the  Journal  are  merely  indicated 
in  the  printed  text. 

Nathan  Boone,  the  author  of  the  Journal,  was 
born  in  Kentucky  in  1782  and  emigrated  with  his 
father,  Daniel  Boone,  to  Missouri.  In  1812  Presi- 
dent Madison  appointed  him  captain  of  mounted 
rangers,  a  company  of  Missouri  frontiersmen,  and 
in  the  next  year  he  rose  to  the  rank  of  major.  In 
1832  he  became  captain  in  the  regiment  of  Mounted 
Rangers.  Afterward  he  served  as  captain  and  then 
as  major  in  the  First  Regiment  of  United  States 


181 


182      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Dragoons.  He  became  lieutenant  colonel  of  the 
Second  Kegiment  of  United  States  Dragoons  on 
July  25,  1850,  resigning  three  years  later.  He  died 
on  June  12,  1857. 

ZACHAEY  TAYLOR'S  LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL 

Hd.  Qrs.  Ind  Mil.  Dept. 
Fort  Smith,  August  23d  1843. 
Sir, 

I  respectfully  transmit  Captain  Boone's  report 
of  his  recent  expedition  on  the  Prairies,  with  the 
accompanying  journal  and  a  reduced  copy  of  the 
Captain's  map  of  his  route. 

I  beg  leave  to  invite  the  attention  of  the  General 
in  Chief  to  this  journal,  as  affording  much  valuable 
and  curious  information,  particularly  in  relation  to 
the  Salt  region  on  the  Red  Forks  of  the  Arkansas. 
The  instructions  given  to  Captain  Boone  were  faith- 
fully carried  out,  and  much  credit  is  due  to  him  and 
his  officers  for  the  good  management  of  the  expedi- 
tion— 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obt.  servt. 

Z.  Tayloe,  Bt.  Br.  Genl, 

U.  S.  A.  Comdg. 
The  Adjutant  General 
of  the  Army, 
Washington, 
D.  C. 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  183 

CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  EEPOET 

Fort  Gibson  Augst  11th.  1843 
Sir 

I  have  the  honour  to  inform  you  of  my  return 
with  my  command  to  this  Post  on  the  31st  of  July 
— 43,  having-  been  delayed  by  a  severe  cold  taken 
since  my  return,  from  making  an  earlier  report. 
Pursuant  to  your  instructions  of  April  24th  1843, 
I  left  this  Post  on  the  14th  May  to  make  a  recon- 
noisance  of  the  Western  prairies.  My  command  con- 
sisted of  two  subalterns,  and  60  Non  Com'd  Offrs, 
and  Privates.  I  proceeded  up  the  North  side  of  the 
Arkansas  Eiver,  keeping  between  the  Arkansas,  and 
Verdigris  Rivers  for  about  seventy  five  miles,  and  at 
my  camp  on  the  Arkansas,  I  was  joined  by  Asst 
Sargt  Simpson  on  the  18th  and  Lts  [Abraham  R.] 
Johnston,  &  [Richard  H.]  Anderson  with  27  men  of 
D  Co  U.  S.  Drags,  at  which  time  I  also  received  a 
copy  of  your  letter  to  Col  Davenport  dated  May  10th 
1843,  apprising  me  of  the  movements  of  Col  Ryburn, 
and  other  Texians.  On  receiving  this  information,  I 
determined  to  cross  to  the  South  side  of  the  Arkan- 
sas, and  then  take  up  the  upper  Red  Fork,  thinking 
that  I  might  by  so  doing  fall  in  with  Ryburns  party. 
Crossed  the  Arkansas  on  the  20th,  marched  in  a 
North  Westerly  direction,  untill  I  reached  the  Red 
Fork,  and  thence,  proceeded  up  that  River  without 
difficulty,  or  interruption  untill  the  29th  May,  when 
we  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Osages,  35  or  40  in  num- 
ber, accompanied  by  their  families,  near  the  great 
Salt  plains.    We  encamped  with  them,  and  during 


184      MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

that  night,  they  stole  from  my  camp  ten  horses,  and 
two  mules.  Six  of  these  horses,  and  two  mules,  were 
public  animals,  the  remaining  four,  belonged  to  the 
officers 

At  this  time,  I  had  not  sufficient  proof  against  them 
to  act  promptly  with  them.  The  Chief  of  this  party 
call'd  himself  To,  wan,  ga,  ha,  his  interpreter,  who 
call'd  himself  John,  was  an  Osage,  and  spoke  tol- 
erable English,  our  camp  was  on  a  creek  call'd 
Pa-ha-bee,  a  branch  of  the  Eed  Fork  (Upper). 
Having  spent  several  days  in  trying  to  recover  our 
stolen  horses,  visited  the  great  Salt  plain,  but  with- 
out examining  it,  and  seeing  no  signs  of  Ryburn's 
party,  I  steered  more  North,  in  order  to  strike  the 
Santa  Fe  trace  where  it  first  strikes  the  Arkansas, 
intending  to  revisit  the  Salt  plain,  and  give  it  a 
thorough  examination  I  left  To,  wan,  ga,  ha  and 
party  on  the  3rd  of  June,  and  on  the  5th  of  June, 
met  a  small  party  of  Osages,  amongst  whom  were 
several  of  To  wan  ga  ha's  band,  one  of  them  riding 
one  of  the  mules  which  had  been  stolen  from  us  on 
the  night  of  the  29th  May.  This  I  considered  as 
satisfactory  proof  of  the  theft,  they  knowing  their 
guilt,  became  alarmed,  and  attempted  to  escape.  We 
seized  them,  took  their  arms,  and  I  permitted  such 
officers  (at  their  request)  as  had  lost  horses,  to  re- 
place them  with  Indian  ponies,  four  of  which  were 
taken.  I  ordered  the  Osages  to  show  us  their  camp, 
but  could  not  prevail  on  them  to  do  so.  I  then  told 
them  to  go,  and  bring  us  our  stolen  horses,  and  I 
would  restore  them  their  property,  but  this  had  not 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  185 

the  desired  effect.  After  encamping  on  the  evening 
of  the  5th,  three  osages  of  the  same  party  visited 
our  camp,  and  wanted  to  exchange  their  horses  for 
the  horses  which  had  been  taken  from  them.  I  again 
told  them  to  bring  my  horses,  and  they  should  have 
their 's,  with  their  arms,  but  without  effect 
Next  day  continued  North  about  20  miles  which 
brought  us  to  the  Santa  Fe  trace  at  a  place  which 
I  call'd  Mulberry  grove,  and  in  this  grove,  I  found 
the  encampment  of  the  party  which  rob  'd,  and  mur- 
dered C.  Garvis  [Don  Antonio  Jose  Chavez] -^^  the 
Spaniard.  Some  five  or  six  horse  men  had  been 
there  about  four  days  before,  and  left  signs  on  trees 
which  I  supposed  had  reference  to  their  numbers, 
and  the  direction  they  were  travelling.  I  search 'd 
for  the  remains  of  C  Garvis,  [Chavez]  &  also  sent 
out  two  detachments  in  search  of  those  who  had 
lately  been  there,  but  could  find  neither.  Finding 
the  Traders  had  not  yet  passed,  I  determined  to 
cross  over  to  the  South  side  of  the  Arkansas,  where 
I  could  get  buffalo,  and  await  the  arrival  of  the 
Traders.  This  I  did  and  on  the  13th  of  June,  Cap't 
Cooke's  command  came  in  sight.  On  his  arrival, 
Cap't  Cooke  informed  me  that  the  caravan  was  a 
few  miles  behind,  accompanied  by  Cap't  [Benjamin 
D.]  Moore  &  Company.  Capt  Cooke  encamped  on 
the  left  bank,  while  I  encamped  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Arkansas,  from  the  13th  to  the  22nd.  Lt  John- 
ston on  the  13th  met  with  a  severe  accident,  shooting 
himself  through  the  foot,  in  consequence  of  which  he 
had  to  be  hauled  in  the  waggon  during  the  remain- 


186      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

der  of  the  trip.  Cap't  Moore  with  the  traders  being 
still  back  about  12  miles,  where  they  had  been  de- 
tained by  high  waters,  and  as  Cap't  Cooke  thought 
his  command  sufficiently  strong  to  protect  the 
traders,  I  determined  to  set  out  on  our  Southern 
rout,  intending  to  pass  the  Salt  plains.  Accordingly 
started  on  the  22nd,  and  travell'd  West  by  South 
West,  and  on  the  27th  met  mth  a  large  party  of 
osages,  and  encamped  near  them  at  night.  Their 
cheif  was  To,  ca,  sa,  ba.  In  the  morning  I  set  out 
for  the  Salt  plains.  To,  ca,  sa,  ba  telling  me,  he'd  go 
there  also,  and  we'd  encamp  together.  Beleiving 
that  this  party  wish'd  to  steal  our  horses,  I  felt  no 
disposition  to  meet  them  at  the  Salt  plains,  and 
after  marching  three  miles  from  camp,  I  changed  my 
course,  and  steered  towards  the  Rock  Salt,  where  I 
arrived  on  the  30th  June.  I  intended  remaining 
here  some  days,  and  to  make  a  thorough  examination 
of  the  plain,  but  the  next  day  a  large  party  of  osages 
came,  and  encamped  by  us.  Their  cheif  was  Tallee, 
who  with  his  party  appeared  well  disposed  towards 
us,  and  laughing,  told  us  the  osages  had  stolen  our 
horses.  The  Salt  Rock  as  I  have  call'd  it,  is  well 
worth  a  strict  examination,  which  I  could  not  give 
it,  not  being  prepared  to  do  so.  I  do  not  consider 
what  I  there  saw,  to  be  the  Rock  Salt  proper,  al- 
though it  lies  in  great  masses,  but  I  do  believe  Rock 
Salt  to  be  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface  of  the 
plain,  and  to  be  wash'd  by  the  bottom  of  the  River. 
It  was  very  evident  that  the  Indians  were  not  pleased 
with  our  visit,  and  wish'd  us  awav.    Whether  this 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  187 

was  caused  by  a  fear  that  we'd  frighten  off  the  buf- 
falo, or  not,  they  kept  up  a  continual  alarm  of 
Pawnee  Mohas[?].  The  osages  told  me  of  another 
salt  plain,  where  they  cut  up  salt,  which  they  re- 
ported to  be  on  a  prairie  off  from  the  River.  I  con- 
cluded to  make  a  search  for  this  plain  and  with  this 
intention  march 'd  down  the  Red  Fork  some  30  or  40 
miles,  but  my  search  was  unsuccessful.  About  this 
time  Private  Been  [Bean]  Co  'E'  died.  He  had  been 
hauled  in  the  waggon  from  the  Arkansas  River. 
This  was  the  only  case  of  sickness  worth  mentioning, 
which  we  had  on  the  trip.  I  now  struck  for  the 
Canadian  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River,  which  I 
reach 'd  after  crossing  the  north  Fork.  On  arriving 
at  the  Canadian,  I  crossed,  and  travell'd  down  be- 
tween that  stream,  and  the  False  Washita  untill  I 
parted  with  Lt  Johnston  on  the  morning  of  the  14th 
July,  when  I  again  crossed  the  Canadian,  keeping  on 
its  northern  side,  between  it,  and  Little  River,  pass- 
ing Choteau's  Old  Trading  house.  We  struck  the 
road  leading  from  Edwards  trading  house  (Old  Fort 
Holmes) -^^  to  Gibson  5  miles  north  of  Edwards', 
and  kept  on  it  to  Fort  Gibson.  During  the  March, 
we  lost  two  men,  one  as  already  stated,  the  other  was 
accidentally  shot,  dying  a  few  minutes  after  being 
shot.  I  will  here  remark  that  throughout  the  march 
we  met  with  no  difficulty  in  travelling  though  there 
were  three  waggons  along.  From  the  Arkansas  to 
the  Ne,  ne,  sea,  there  is  no  timber,  but  throughout 
the  rest  of  our  rout,  we  always  found  some  sort  of 
timber,  affording  us  fuel.     Throughout  the  Region 


188      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

of  Red  Gypsum  hills,  we  found  great  quantities  of 
Red  Cedar.  We  subsisted  on  buffalo  meat  from  the 
time  we  reach  'd  the  great  salt  plain,  untill  we  struck 
the  settlements  on  the  Canadian.  We  used  the  Salt 
from  the  Salt  plains. 

In  addition  to  this  report,  I  offer  you  a  copy  from 
my  journal,  as  comprising  the  greater  part  of  my 
report,  and  giving  the  particular  incidents  as  they 
occur 'd,  together  with  the  water  courses,  directions 
and  distances  travell'd.  The  soil  of  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  country  passed  over  was  very  fine,  espe- 
cially amongst  the  Gypsum  hills.  Gypsum  and 
plaster  of  Paris,  grey,  blue.  Red,  &  white,  for  one 
hundred  miles  from  north  to  south,  is  as  abundant 
as  the  Limestone  is  in  Missouri,  or  Arkansas,  in 
parts  of  the  country  we  passed  over. 
I  also  send  with  this,  a  Map  or  Rough  Sketch  of  the 
Country,  with  the  water  courses  running  through  it. 
The  courses,  and  distances  are  all  estimated  from 
Point  to  Point  direct,  and  not  according  to  the  dis- 
tances actually  travell'd  during  each  day,  as  it  was 
found  impossible  to  note  the  courses  and  distances 
of  the  windings  made  during  each  days  march. 
Very  Respectfully 
Yr  Obd't  Serv't 

Nathan  Boone  Capt  Comdg 
Detacht.  Dr. 

To  Genl.  Z.  Taylor 

Comd'g  2nd  Mil.  Dep't. 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  189 

CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL 

Copy  of  a  journal  kept  hy  CapH  N  Boone  during 
a  March  on  the  South  W  Prairies  from  the  14th  May 
1843  to  31st  July  1843 

Captain  Boone  agreeably  to  Department  Order 
of  the  24tli  April  1843,  commenced  his  march  from 
the  beach  of  Grand  River  opposite  Fort  Gibson  at 
11  O'clock  A.  M.  on  the  14th  of  May  1843.  The 
course  for  the  first  four  miles  was  west,  When,  cross- 
ing the  Verdigris  River  at  Unswatoy's  Ferry,  he 
proceeded  in  a  South  Westerly  Course  four  miles 
then  West  6  miles  and  encamped  on  a  small  prairie 
branch  emptying  into  the  Arkansas ;  having  marched 
from  12  to  14  miles  direct  distance  from  Camp  No.  1 
to  Fort  Gibson,  and  about  10  miles  East  course. — 
Land,  passed  over  during  the  march,  heavily  tim- 
bered, and  very  fertile. 

May  15th  —  Monday. —  Started  on  the  march  at 
K  past  7.  West  by  N.  W.  15  miles.  Encamped  for 
the  night  on  a  small  creek  which  runs  into  the  Arkan- 
sas. The  traveling  good :  over  handsome  and  fertile 
prairie.  To  the  left  of  the  trail,  22  miles  from  Fort 
Gibson,  was  found  a  mineral  spring  slightly  Chalyb- 
eate. The  geological  formation,  passed  over,  con- 
sisted of  sandstone  which  exists  at  Fort  Gibson  and 
on  the  hills  above  Little  Rock,  on  the  Arkansas  river, 
and  which  is  supposed  to  have  a  dip  of  a  few  degrees 
to  the  S.  W. 

3rd  day.  May  16th  —  Tuesday. —  Set  out  at  10 
A.  M.  course  N.  W.  6  miles.  Encamped  on  a  branch, 
of  the  Verdigris,  difficult  to  Cross :  the  banks  steep 
and  miry. 


190      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

4th  day.  May  17.  Wednesday. —  Remained  all 
day  in  camp.  Rain,  very  heavy  nearly  all  day.  the 
wind  from  the  N.  E.  One  horse  of  Co.  E  died ;  cause, 
not  known.  The  character  of  the  country  in  appear- 
ance the  same  as  that  passed  on  the  16th  —  on  the 
16th  passed  some  lime  stone  strata  of  compact  lime 
stone  dip  3°  S.  S.  W.  This  limestone  is  supposed  to 
be  the  same  with  that  underlying  the  Sandstone  at 
the  landing  at  Fort  Gibson. 

5tli  day.  4th  day  marching,  May  18th  Thursday. 
Moved  camp  one  mile  to  the  high  land,  and  remained 
awaiting  Co.  D.,  which  we  had  been  informed  was  on 
the  march  to  join  us. 

6th  day.  5th  day  marcliing,  May  19th  Friday. — 
Set  out  at  y2  past  7.  Course  W.  N.  W.  for  10  miles, 
then  N.  W.  8  miles  Encamped  for  the  night  on  a 
creek  emptying  into  the  Verdigris.  This  Creek  rises 
in  the  hills  immediately  on  the  Arkansas  and  runs 
N.  E.  The  first  ten  miles  of  the  day's  march,  was 
through  the  prairie  and  similar  to  the  previous 
marches :  the  Command  then  entered  the  hills  on  the 
head  of  the  Creek  previously  mentioned.  The  route 
was  difficult  from  the  quantity  of  Rock  and  the  steep- 
ness of  the  hills.  Some  of  the  hills  bordering  the 
prairie  were  entirely  free  from  timber;  the  most  of 
them  were  covered  with  Black  Jack  and  Post  oak; 
with  here  and  there  a  white  oak,  and  on  the  water 
courses  occasionally  a  few  black  birch.  These  entire 
hills  appear  to  be  composed  of  the  Sand  Stone  pre- 
viously passed:  At  one  point  the  limestone  men- 
tioned on  the  16th  was  noticed  at  the  base  of  the  hills 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  191 

after  leaving  the  prairie,  this  limestone  contains 
Encorsoils[?]  and  some  mimite  bival[v]e  shells.  In 
the  sand  stone  were  noticed  wave-lines,  collelites,['?] 
and  appearances  similar  to  them,  also  a  sort  of 
arborescent  appearance  [drawing  in  MS.]  often  seen 
in  the  Sand  Stone  at  Fort  Gibson.  Noticed  on  the 
prairie,  the  wild  indigo  with  a  blue,  and  also  with  a 
white  flower;  the  wild  sensitive  plant;  the  polar 
plant,  a  rosin  weed.  This  plant  is  a  tall  plant,  per- 
haps 7  feet  high,  with  a  few  shaped  leaf  which 
ranges,  generally,  north  and  south,  affording  a  toler- 
able compass  to  the  traveler  over  the  prairies.  A 
quantity  of  rosin  is  secreted  at  each  joint  which 
might  render  its  cultivation  desirable;  its  taste  is 
strongly  resinous,  and  the  horse  is  very  fond  of  it. 

7th  day.  6th  day  marching.  May  20th  Saturday. 
—  Marched  at  >^  past  7.  Course  N.  W.  18  miles  and 
encamped  near  the  Arkansas  River,  where  the  Osage 
trail  crosses  it.  At  12  o'clock  this  day,  got  one  of 
the  cross  timber  and  passed  through  an  arm  of  the 
grand  prairie,  where  were  the  remains  of  an  exten- 
sive Indian  Encampment. — 

8th  day.  May  21st.  Sunday. —  Remained  in 
camp  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Lieut  Johnston  with 
Company  D.  Dr.  Simpson  having  arrived  the  night 
previous.  Here  we  built  a  bark  canoe. —  Company 
"D"  joined  about  2  o' Clock. 

9th  day.  7th  inarching. —  May  22nd  Monday. — 
Broke  up  camp,  and  crossed  the  Arkansas  at  the 
Osage  crossing.  The  river  is  here  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  we  found  it  up  to  the  saddle  skirts  and  falling; 


192      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

we  hauled  the  wagons  over  with  the  teams  and  put 
the  provisions  in  the  bark  canoe  and  the  men  waded 
and  pulled  it  over,  and  in  10  trips,  brought  over  the 
entire  contents  of  the  3  wagons.  Traveled  to  day 
about  2  miles,  west,  and  encamped  on  the  west  bank 
of  a  small  creek  which  empties  into  the  Arkansas, 
above  the  Crossing. 

10th  day.  8th  day  marching. —  May  23rd  Tues- 
day.—  Marched  about  Yi  past  6.  traveled  19  miles 
N.  70  W.  followed  until  2  o'clock  the  great  Osage 
hunting  trail,  until  it  left  the  waters  of  the  creek 
which  we  encamped  on  last  night;  then  the  trail 
turning  to  the  South  we  left  it  on  the  divide,  and 
came  to  the  head  of  another  more  considerable  creek 
which  flows  N.  E.  during  the  day  saw  perhaps  50 
deer.  The  Country  was  much  broken  timber  post 
oak  and  black  jack  openings,  and  prairie,  the  soil 
sandy  and  in  some  places  the  black  jack  on  the  high 
hills  appeared  to  be  dying;  no  doubt  attributable  to 
the  dry  season.  The  quantity  of  water  which  flows 
from  the  streams  is  very  small  compared  to  the  ex- 
tent of  the  country.  Most  of  the  rocks  were  sand 
stones.  About  7  miles  from  Camp  we  passed  a  sand- 
stone hill  with  a  strata  of  limestone  running  through 
it,  which  we  passed  several  times  during  the  day 
afterwards,  gradually  getting  near  the  beds  of  the 
streams  as  we  travelled  west.  Vegetation  somewhat 
different  from  the  north  side  of  the  Arkansas,  saw 
red  oak,  and  Bur  oak  —  two  of  the  latter  near  our 
Camp  were  4  feet  in  diameter.  The  limestone  of 
to  day  contained  innumerable  minute  shells  some- 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  193 

what  of  the  shape  and  size  of  a  barley  grain,  besides 
coral,  or  madrepores,  terebratulae  et.  al. — 

11th  day.  9th  day  marching.  May  24th  Wednes- 
day. Marched  at  Yi  past  6.  A.  M.  course  W.  N.  W. 
19  miles,  crossed  three  creeks  of  some  size  flowing 
northwardly  —  encamped  on  a  fourth  larger  still, 
with  running  water  of  a  very  red  character ;  crossed 
a  stratum  of  limestone  apparently  dipping  S.  E.  also 
a  stratum  of  reddish  limestone  colored  by  iron  or 
[blank  in  MS.]  under  which  was  a  stratum  of  clayey 
shale  with  plates  of  limestone  intermixed.  These 
strata  no  doubt  out  crop  along  the  course  of  the 
creek  above  named,  hence  its  color.  The  country 
passed  over  was  rolling  and  in  some  places  hilly, 
with  timber  a  few  hundred  yards  on  the  creeks  and 
their  tributaries. —  From  the  hill  tops  in  the  prairie 
the  views  were  extensive  and  beautiful.  After  get- 
ting on  the  limestone  land  a  great  change  was  ob- 
served in  the  vegetation,  the  grass  was  finer,  the 
trees  of  different  character.  Linden,  Hackberry, 
Black  Ash,  hickory.  Sycamore,  Cotton  wood,  elm, 
grapevines  &c  were  observed.  On  the  prairies  the 
vegetation  was  the  same,  but  more  luxuriant.  There 
appear  to  be  no  strawberries  in  these  prairies.  The 
red  stream  on  which  we  camp  is  difficult  to  pass,  the 
banks  being  steep  and  muddy.  Deer  and  Turkies 
plenty,  hundreds  of  the  latter  being  out  on  the  open 
prairie. 

12th  day.  10th  day  marching.  May  25  Thursday. 
Marched  at  /^  past  6.  Course  N.  W.  21  miles,  about 
14  miles  N.  50  W.    We  passed  a  large  creek  which  at 


14 


194      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

first  we  supposed  might  be  the  Red  fork  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, being  red,  and  apparently  a  long  stream,  but 
after  travelling  7  miles  in  a  more  northerly  direc- 
tion we  were  gratified  by  finding  a  beautiful  river 
about  200  yards  wide,  making  a  sweeping  bend  to- 
wards the  South  at  the  point  where  we  struck  it ;  the 
prairie  coming  in  to  the  right  bank  while  on  the 
other  shore  the  floods  had  thrown  up  high  banks  of 
white  sand,  which  were  covered  with  groves  of  Cot- 
ton wood  and  other  trees,  these,  contrasted  with  the 
red  color  of  the  water  gave  a  beautiful  appearance 
to  the  river.  We  encamped  in  the  prairie  on  the 
bank  of  the  river.  Our  march  to  day  was  principally 
over  the  short  buffalo  grass,  the  prairie  grass  having 
almost  entirely  disappeared,  the  timber  was  getting 
scarcer,  and  on  leaving  one  creek  it  was  like  putting 
out  to  the  open  sea  until  we  rose  the  ridge,  when  a 
narrow  skirt  of  trees  would  point  out  the  position  of 
the  next.  About  four  miles  from  Camp  (24th)  we 
crossed  another  Osage  trail,  more  considerable  than 
the  one  on  which  we  crossed  the  Arkansas;  On  this 
trail  we  discovered  two  or  three  recent  shod  horse 
tracks,  made  probably  before  the  rain.  These  tracks 
were  going  north  east  (the  direction  of  the  trail). 
Passed  over  some  limestone  and  Sandstone  of  very 
red  character,  dip,  not  apparent,  at  our  camp  to- 
night on  the  bank  of  the  river  a  sand  rock  out  crops, 
under  which  was  a  stratum  of  reddish  illuminous 
earth,  and  under  that  a  stratum  of  limestone  very 
like  the  stone  used  for  lithography.  Along  the 
banks  of  the  river  were  deposites  of  clay  of  a  soapy 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  195 

feel,  as  red  as  the  common  Cornelian.  About  3  miles 
before  encamping,  three  objects  were  seen  on  the 
verge  of  the  horizon,  coming  towards  the  column,  in 
a  few  minutes  they  were  on  the  top  of  the  nearest 
hill  and  proved  to  be  3  Antelopes,  the  first  we  had 
seen,  prompted  by  their  well  known  curiosity  they 
have  approached  to  see  what  all  this  could  mean. 
On  the  bank  of  the  river  we  found  some  recent  elk 
tracks  the  first  evidence  we  have  had  of  their  being 
in  the  Country.  Our  three  last  days  marches  have 
been  over  prairie,  abounding  in  old  Buffalo  wallows, 
and  frequently  we  have  passed  the  bones  of  buffalo 
whitening  on  the  prairie ;  but  no  signs  of  their  being 
here  for  several  years.  The  waters  of  these  rivers 
taste  brackish  a  little  and  some  think  styptic.  They 
are  strongly  [blank  in  MS.],  and  the  horses  ap- 
peared very  fond  of  them. — 

13th  day.  11th  day  marching.  May  26th  Friday. 
—  This  morning  a  large  stream  was  discovered,  by 
Capt  Boone,  to  be  running  from  the  north  and  emp- 
tying into  the  one  on  which  we  were  encamped.  A 
party  of  an  officer  and  two  men,  was  sent  over  to 
explore:  they  crossed  the  Red  fork  (as  that  proved 
to  be  one  on  which  the  command  encamped,)  at  a 
very  quick-sandy  ford,  and  after  crossing  over  the 
flat  prairie  for  four  or  five  miles,  between  the  rivers, 
came  upon  the  main  Arkansas  river,  which  makes  a 
wide  sweep  to  the  south  at  this  point  and  joins  with 
the  red  fork  about  four  miles  N.  E.  of  our  last  night's 
encampment.  The  Arkansas  was  nearly  white  above 
the  junction.    In  the  bend  between  the  rivers  a  bed 


196      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

of  limestone  out  crops,  dip  6°  S.  E.  filled  with  fos- 
sils. On  the  bank  of  the  Arkansas  another  stratum 
was  seen  wdth  the  same  dip,  containing  a  great  quan- 
tity of  small  [drawing  in  MS.]  The  course  of  the 
column  was  N.  80°  w.  20  miles,  over  a  ridge  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  red  fork.  Crossed  the  red  fork 
about  4  miles  before  encamping,  at  a  good  solid  ford. 
Encamped  on  a  creek,  which  was  called  walnut,  from 
the  quantity  of  that  tree  found  upon  it.  Some  ante- 
lope seen  to  day,  and  one  hare  killed;  the  hare 
weighed  five  pounds,  being  poor,  and  not  full  size, 
the  ears  were  near  four  inches  long,  the  body  2  feet : 
it  resembled  a  rabbit,  but  head  was  more  delicate  in 
proportion,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  Animal 
indicated  speed,  w^hich  was  astonishing,  the  top  of 
tail,  and  the  tips  of  ears  behind,  were  black.  Timber 
being  very  scarce,  only  to  be  found  in  narrow  strips 
on  the  stream;  the  country  getting  very  flat,  with 
broad  flat  bottoms  on  the  rivers.  Saw  a  great  num- 
ber of  remarkable  circles  of  grass  in  the  prairies, 
supposed  to  be  the  effects  of  lightning.  They  are 
circular  belts  of  grass  perhaps  a  j^ard  wide  —  the 
grass  entirely  of  a  different  kind;  being  apparently 
the  rank  prairie  grass  of  a  dark  green  contrasted 
with  the  yellowish  green  of  the  buffalo  grass  [three 
drawings  in  MS.] 

14th  day.  12th  day  marching.  May  27th.  Sat- 
urday. Marched  at  7  A.  M.  Course  W.  20  M.  over 
country  where  there  was  very  little  variation  from  a 
general  level,  and  occasionally,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  there  was  no  timber  to  be  seen,  except 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  197 

the  narrow  skirt  which  indicated  the  course  of  the 
Eed  fork.  Along  the  course  of  that  stream  we  could 
see  large  banks  of  sand  apparently  as  high  as  the 
highest  ground  in  view.  Passed  more  recent  sign  of 
Buffalo,  and  what  was  at  no  distant  day  the  stamp- 
ing grounds,  of  countless  hordes  of  them.  The  de- 
struction of  these  animals  yearly  and  their  falling 
off  so  rapidly  makes  it  certain,  almost,  that  in  a  few 
years  they  will  only  be  known  as  a  rare  species. 
More  than  30,000  robes  for  Commerce  come  down 
the  Missouri  annually,  these  added  to  those  which  go 
elsewhere,  must  make  the  tax  on  the  buffalo  robes 
annually  come  to  exceed  100,000.  Taking  into  con- 
sideration the  fact  that  the  animals  destroyed  for 
food  are  taken  in  the  summer  while  the  hair  is  almost 
all  off,  and,  of  course,  the  robe  useless,  we  can  readily 
account  for  this  disappearance  from  the  grounds  we 
have  been  travelling  over,  and  make  it  certain  that 
the  buffalo  must  soon  cease  on  these  plains  alto- 
gether.—  Passed  to  day  many  places  where  salt  ap- 
peared to  be  effloresceing  on  the  soil,  these  places 
were  evidently  the  favourite  resort  of  the  buffalo. 
Encamped  on  the  left  bank  of  a  creek  emptying  into 
the  Red  fork.  On  this  we  found  the  carcasses  of 
three  buffalo,  probably  starved  here  by  the  lateness 
of  the  spring.  A  little  before  Sunset  a  dark  cloud 
appeared  in  the  north  west,  which  soon  came  upon 
us  with  a  frightful  thunder  storm,  accompanied  with 
hail. —  some  of  the  stones,  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg. 
Our  horses  stood  until  it  was  nearly  over,  then,  many 
of  them  broke,  and  were  away  all  night,  but  came 


198      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

back  on  the  run  at  day  light.  Game  —  Deer,  Ante- 
lope, turkeys,  partridges,  grouse,  scarce  observed  [.] 
plenty  of  turtle  doves  and  plover.  Near  Camp  dis- 
covered a  bank  of  Clay  in  which  was  a  seam  of 
whitish  Chalky  clay  or  soft  limestone. — 

15th  day.  13th  day  marching.  May  28th  Sun- 
day. Marched  at  10  A.  M.  Made  a  late  start  on 
account  of  the  rain.  Marched  11  miles  N.  10°  W. 
Encamped  on  the  same  creek  as  last  night,  on  the 
last  timber  of  it,  there  being  none  North  or  West  of 
it  as  far  as  could  be  seen  on  the  prairie.  The  short 
grass  of  the  prairies  or  buffalo  grass  being  very 
short  on  our  march.  Old  Buffalo  [blank  in  MS.] 
and  wallows  in  prodigious  numbers.  Saw  to  day 
one  settlement  of  the  prairie  dog. —  killed  a  badger 
and  a  hare. —  Saw  some  antelope  and  deer,  and  signs 
of  turkeys.  The  soil  of  the  plain  passed  to  day  ap- 
pears fertile  and  partakes  of  the  red  character  which 
gives  color  to  Red  fork  and  other  streams  in  this 
quarter.  Afar  off  to  the  left  on  the  course  of  the 
Red  fork  appeared  some  high  ground,  like  hills  cov- 
ered with  timber,  but  too  distant  for  observation. 
The  wind  was  N.  W.  to  day,  the  thermometer  at  55°. 
at  Sunrise,  and  62°.  at  one  o'clock.  Latitude  about 
36°.  20'.  Encamped  near  an  old  osage  encampment, 
marked  by  the  ribs  of  their  lodges  still  standing. 
They  usually  encamp  on  an  eminence  that  they  may 
see  if  their  enemies  approach.  To  procure  fire  wood 
they  climb  the  trees  and  lop  off  the  branches,  when 
small  trees  cannot  be  obtained.  This  is  probably  the 
work  of  the  Squaws,  found  some  flint  on  the  soil 
to  day,  in  loose  pieces. — 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  199 

16th  day.  14th  day  marching.  May  29th. —  Mon- 
day. Started  at  7.  going  north  west  for  some  dis- 
tance over  the  successive  elevations  of  the  prairie, 
we  finally  came  in  sight  of  an  indian,  and  two  officers 
started  in  pursuit  and  overtook  some  osages,  Wa- 
sha-shay.  They  took  us  to  their  Camp  and  upon 
receiving  information  that  one  of  the  Salt  Plains 
was  within  20  miles,  concluded  to  encamp  on  the 
same  stream  with  them,  and  get  a  guide  next  day 
for  it.  They  had  killed  25  buffalo  in  and  about  their 
Camp,  so  that  we  are  now  in  the  buffalo  range.  The 
Creek  on  which  they  encamped  flows  S.  E.  and  is 
quite  a  large  branch  of  what  we  have  called  the  Red 
fork  —  they  call  this  Creek  Pa-ha-bee  —  We  have 
not  seen  the  buffalo  yet.  our  distance  was  about  12 
miles  N.  10°.  W.  Near  Camp  tonight,  there  is  an 
out-crop  of  limestone  nearly  horizontal,  under  which 
is  a  thick  stratum  of  red  clay,  or,  more  properly, 
clay  slate,  it  crumbles  easily  and  cuts  like  soap- 
stone  with  the  knife.  Under  this  is  a  stratum  of 
white  stone  of  similar  character  like  [blank  in  MS.] 
chalk. — 

17th  day.  May  30th  Tuesday. —  This  morning 
several  horses  were  missing  and  evidence  of  foul 
play  shown  by  the  lariettes  being  cut.  In  a  short 
time  a  great  disturbance  was  shown  in  the  osage 
Camp.  They  came  and  reported  that  the  Pawnees 
had  been  at  Camp  and  had  stolen  some  of  their 
horses  as  well  as  ours.  This  induced  the  Commander 
to  detach  two  subalterns  and  30  men  to  follow  their 
trail.    This  party  got  off  at  about  >^  past  6  and  fol- 


200      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

lowed  the  Osages  on  the  trail  for  near  30  miles  at  a 
gallop,  but  there  they  lost  it  in  a  sandy  plain  filled 
with  buffalo.  After  this  suspicion  was  fixed  on  the 
Osages,  themselves,  and  the  party  returned  to  Camp. 
The  horses  taken  were  picketed  in  a  second  bottom 
below  camp,  on  the  Creek  —  rather  out  of  the  direct 
view  of  the  sentinel,  and  so  near  the  Osage  Camp 
that  no  Pawnees  would  ever  come  there  for  them. — 
This  day  the  party  sent  in  pursuit  were  conducted 
about  25  miles  N.  80°.  W.  and  there  crossed  a  creek, 
running  to  the  left,  of  some  size,  their  course  was 
over,  the  ridges  between  the  Creek  one  camp  was  on. 
and  the  one  just  mentioned.  This  ground  is  elevated 
about  100  feet,  but  very  gradual,  so  that  in  crossing 
the  country  you  can  see  the  long  successive  ridges 
before  and  behind  like  the  swell  of  an  ocean. —  but 
more  extensive  —  The  soil,  red ;  and  sandstone  with 
red  clay. 

18th  day.  15th  day's  marching.  May  31st 
Wednesday.  The  Osages  were  informed  this  morn- 
ing, that  it  was  believed  they  were  the  horse  thieves, 
and  they  must  give  up  the  horses  or  they  could  not 
go  on  their  hunt.  They  said  they  would  go  and  put 
us  on  the  Pawnee  trail.  Camp  was  accordingly 
broken  up  and  all  the  Indians  taken  with  us;  after 
travelling  10  miles  West  and  encamped  on  a  deep 
gully  running  S.  W.  towards  the  Red  forks  —  from 
the  ridge  near  this  the  Osages  showed  the  trail  of 
the  Shod  horses,  and  not  a  single  poney  track  was 
among  them,  and  the  trail  diverged  to  the  left  en- 
tirely of  the  route  they  led  the  Dragoons  on  yester- 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  201 

clay;  showing  conclusively  tliat  they  had  led  the 
party  on  the  right  side  of  the  ridge,  on  a  false  track, 
while  on  the  left  these  men  were  running  off  our 
horses.  A  butcher  knife  was  found  in  camp  where 
one  of  the  horses  was  cut  loose,  and  one  of  the  pur- 
sueing  party  of  yesterday  handed  it  to  the  Chief 
saying  he  had  found  it  in  the  chase,  and  asked  him 
if  it  belonged  to  the  Osages  —  ''oh  yes  wa-sash-ay. " 
But  when  told  that  it  had  done  the  mischief,  he  said 
his  trader  had  traded  with  the  Pawnee's,  and  they 
had  knives  like  the  Osages  and  he  was  mistaken. 
The  Indians  near  Camp  dug  a  quantity  of  a  sort  of 
carrot  shaped  root,  in  taste  resembling  the  raw  po- 
tato. It  forms  a  part  of  their  food,  and  might  be 
worth  cultivating  [three  drawings  in  MS.] 

19th  day.  June  1st  Thursday. —  The  command 
remained  in  Camp  to  day  and  hunted  buffalo ;  while 
Capt  Boone,  with  one  subaltern  and  two  osages 
started  to  look  at  the  Salt  plain.  After  travelling  10 
miles  S  20°  W.  from  Camp,  Came  in  sight  of  the 
plain  of  Salt,  looking  like  a  large  lake  of  white  water 
in  an  extensive  level  country.  The  approach  to  this 
view  was  through  a  succession  of  sand  hills  formed 
at  no  distant  day  by  the  drifting  of  the  light  sand  of 
which  they  are  composed,  though  now  covered  with 
grass.  In  going  through  these  hills,  the  Osages 
caught  sight  of  a  man  in  a  distant  hill.  Capt.  Boone 
went  over  to  see  who  it  was,  and  discovered  a  w^ell 
in  the  sand  made  by  some  Indian,  as  there  were 
prints  of  moccasins  by  it  &c. —  This  gave  a  hint  of 
the  presence  of  Comanches  and  a  turn  of  opinion  as 


202      MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

to  the  true  horse  thieves.  Deeming  it  not  prudent  to 
venture  further  from  Camp  without  a  stronger  force, 
the  exploring  party  returned  to  camp. 

20tli  day.  June  2nd  Friday. —  All  the  disposable 
men  were  mounted  this  morning  to  search  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Salt  plains  and  see  if  there  were  any 
Indians  in  that  quarter.  Lieut  Anderson  was  left  in 
charge  of  Camp.  The  Column  started  about  ^  past 
5,  and  after  searching  the  sand  hills  mentioned  yes- 
terday, in  vain,  for  indians,  proceeded  on  to  the  Salt 
Plain.  This  was  found  good  20  miles  S  from  Camp. 
The  approach  was  very  gratifying  —  a  view  of  the 
plain  from  the  Sand  hills  was  really  magnificent,  and, 
from  the  appearance,  one  might  expect  to  find  salt 
in  a  solid  mass  for  the  whole  extent  of  the  plain,  of 
several  feet  in  thickness.  Running  towards  the 
plain  from  the  sand  hills  we  found  several  streams 
of  pure  limpid  water.  We  then  came  on  the  bed  of  a 
branch  of  the  Red  fork  with  its  red  water  and  quick- 
sands. After  passing  two  branches  of  this,  we  found 
ourselves  on  the  Salt  plain,  which  was  apparently 
only  an  upper  level  of  the  bed  of  the  aforesaid  stream 
as  level  as  a  floor  —  overflowed  evidently,  and  now 
dry,  with  the  slightest  possible  film  of  crystalized 
Salt  on  the  surface,  enough  to  make  it  white.  We 
went  about  two  miles  on  the  plain  without  getting 
half  over  it.  Such  was  the  effect  of  Mirage  on  the 
plain  that  we  could  not  see  across  it,  and  the  buffalo 
bones  whitening  in  the  sun  looked  like  large,  white 
animals  in  the  distance.  Buffalo  appeared  to  be 
standing  in  water,  and,  in  fact,  the  whole  plain  ap- 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  203 

peared  as  if  surrounded  by  water.  No  source  of  this 
salt  was  discovered.  Water  in  pools  near  the  Red 
fork  branch  (supposed  to  be  the  Semarone  [Cimar- 
ron]) was  brackish,  while  the  stream  itself  was  not 
more  so  than  at  other  points.  From  this,  it  is  evi- 
dent that  the  Salt  has  a  local  origin.  No  rock  for- 
mation was  passed  on  our  route  to  throw  light  on  the 
geological  position  of  this  Salt.  At  camp  is  the  same 
red  sand  stone  and  red  clay  which  have  colored  the 
soil  since  we  were  one  day  off  from  the  Arkansas. 
There  was  no  vegetation  on  the  plain  that  in  its 
borders  appeared  of  the  same  character  as  in  the 
rest  of  the  Country.  This  plain  is  called  the  Pawsa 
Salt  plain  by  the  Osages  —  or  big  Salt.  Buffalo  in 
great  abundance,  and  some  Deer  near  the  plain. 

21st  day.  16th  days'  marching.  June  3rd  Satur- 
day.—  Started  at  7  A.  M.  and  marched  20  miles 
north,  and  encamped  on  some  ravines  of  the  Shaw- 
wa-cos-pag  river,  where  there  were  good  springs  of 
water  —  our  journey  to  day  was  through  the  prairie, 
passing  but  two  or  three  cotton  wood  trees  all  day. 
The  water  was  sulphurous,  and  the  rock  gypsum  and 
red  sand  stone  dipping  to  the  S.  W.  very  slightly. 
The  gypsum  is  mixed  up  with  sandy  marl  and  the 
strata  very  friable,  with  occasional  lumps  of  solid 
gypsum,  each  lump  containing  gypsum  in  its  three 
forms.  An  efflorescence  was  observed  over  this  marl 
of  some  whitish  salt  which  the  horses  were  fond  of; 
it  was  not,  however,  from  Common  Salt.  Part  of  the 
day,  the  soil  was  red,  the  latter  part  of  the  day  we 
came  to  a  yellowish  alluvion  on  the  red.    our  camp 


204      MARCHES  OP  THE  DRAGOONS 

was  on  the  red  again.  From  the  hills  back  of  our 
camp  the  view  was  extensive,  looking  over  the  Coun- 
try for  30  miles  in  every  direction  —  No  timber  of 
any  amount  (more  than  two  or  three  trees  together) 
can  be  seen  —  Passed  great  quantities  of  Prairie  dog 
towns  —  No  buffalo  —  a  few  Deer,  hares,  and  Ante- 
lope.—  one  wild  turkey  was  seen  near  our  camp  to 
night.  About  4  miles  from  Camp  passed  the  Pa-ha- 
bee  creek,  called  so  by  the  osages  from  a  man  who 
was  killed  there. —  A  horse  of  ''H"  Compy  was 
missing  this  morning, — 

22nd  clay.  17th  day's  marching;  June  4th  Sun- 
day.—  Started  about  7  A.  M.  After  coming  2  miles 
N.  20°.  E.  Came  to  the  Sha-wa-cos-pay  river,  run- 
ning S.  E. —  This  is  a  principal  branch  of  the  Nes- 
cu-tamga,  or  big  Salt  river  heretofore  called  the  Eed 
fork  of  the  Arkansas.  After  coming  15  miles  north 
from  this,  we  came  on  the  Ne-ne-scah,  or  clear  water 
river,  course  E.  S.  E.  The  beds  of  both  these  streams 
were  near  50  yards  wide,  the  streams  rapid,  shallow, 
and  quick  sandy,  with  scarcely  any  timber  on  them. 
The  course  of  all  the  streams  we  have  passed  in  the 
last  two  days  are  marked  by  hills  of  sand  along  their 
banks,  drifted  into  heaps  by  the  winds.  Saw  no 
buffalo  all  day  except  one,  and  he  was  very  poor  — 
The  indians  had  driven  them  off  —  The  vegetation, 
the  same  as  before  —  observed  one  new  plant,  a  sort 
of  vine  [drawing  in  MS.]  growing  on  the  hard  soil  — 
also  a  sort  of  dent  de  lion  [drawing  in  MS.]  and  the 
Spanish  bayonet  [drawing  in  MS.].  The  only  out 
crop  of  rock  passed  over  was  a  sort  of  blue  clay 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  205 

slate,  dipping  slightly  to  tlie  S.  W.  and  supposed  to 
iinderlye  the  gypsum  of  last  night.  Encamped  on  a 
clear  stream,  a  branch  of  the  Ne-ne-scah,  running 
south,  our  course  to  day  was  n.  5°.  E.  distance  20 
miles. 

23rd  day.  18th  day's  marching.  June  5th  Mon- 
day.—  Started  about  7  A.  M.  after  marching  about 
10  miles  n.  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Arkansas  River, 
and  at  the  same  time  met  a  party  of  Osages  who  we 
evidently  surprised,  and  one  of  them  was  riding  one 
of  the  mules  stolen  from  us  on  the  night  of  the  29th 
May.  This  fixed  the  theft  on  the  Osages,  and  the 
Captain  took  away  the  guns  and  four  horses  of  this 
party,  telling  them  that  when  they  brought  his  horses 
they  should  have  them  back  again.  They  gave  up  to 
us  ten  guns,  their  bows  and  arrows,  and  four  ponies ; 
and  went  off  in  a  southern  direction.  The  command 
crossed  the  Arkansas  and  encamped  12  miles  north, 
from  their  last  night's  encampment.  Passed  to  day 
an  outcrop  of  whitish  clay  slate  similar  to  that 
passed  yesterday,  very  nearly  horizontal.  Under 
this  was  clay  of  the  same  color.  This  formation,  no 
doubt,  is  very  extensive  and  gives  color  to  the  Ar- 
kansas River,  which  is  very  much  lighter  in  color  at 
this  point  than  below  the  junction  with  its  red 
branches.  Met  moschetoes  in  quantities  for  the  first 
time,  to  night.  Passed  only  one  buffalo.  One  of  the 
men  killed  an  antelope,  the  meat  of  which  was  very 
tender  and  delicate.  Saw  a  few  deer.  Timber, 
scarcely  any.  on  the  Arkansas,  a  few  scattered  cot- 
ton wood  and  willow.    The  river  in  [blank  in  MS.] 


206      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

banks  and  broad  bed  about  knee  deep  to  our  horses, 
less  quicksand  than  on  its  red  branches.  Course  at 
this  point  a  little  S.  E.  perhaps  20°. — 

24th  day.  19th  day's  marching.  June  6th.  Tues- 
day. Marched  at  7.  A.  M.  and  travelled  12  miles 
north.  The  course  thro'  open  prairie  for  7  miles, 
then  got  into  sand  hills  of  20  or  30  feet  in  height 
ranging  E  and  W.  then  came  on  the  prairie  and  en- 
camped on  a  clear  water  creek  flowing  S.  E.  This 
water  is  apparently  pure  coming  out  of  the  sand 
hills.  These  hills,  like  those  near  the  Salt  plains, 
have  low  places,  sometimes  with  standing  water,  and 
where  there  is  no  water  on  the  surface,  it  may  be 
gotten  by  digging  a  few  feet.  On  these  hills  were  a 
few  scattering  cotton  wood  bushes,  on  one  of  the 
kinds  were  some  wild  ducks,  which,  apparently, 
breed  there. 

25th  day.  20th  day's  marching;  June  7th 
Wednesday.  Marched  at  J^  past  6.  Spent  some 
time  in  getting  over  the  Creek  —  which  was  a  worse 
job  than  crossing  the  Arkansas  — . —  Travelled  about 
8  miles  north  and  encamped  on  a  grove  of  timber 
within  4  miles  of  the  Sante  Fe  trail,  our  journey 
entirely  through  prairie.  Found  recent  horse  tracks 
of  3  or  4  horses  here,  and  some  signs  of  recent  en- 
campment and  an  old  camp.  Killed  one  Elk  to  day 
—  meat  very  delicate  —  Called  the  grove  '  Mulberry 
grove ' — 

26th  day.  21  day's  marching.  June  8th  Thurs- 
day. Marched  at  >4  past  6  and  travelled  19  miles 
W.  S.  W.  and  encamped  on  the  Little  Arkansas  most 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  207 

of  one  day's  march  was  on  the  Sante  Fe  trace,  which 
we  fell  into  4  miles  from  camp  of  yesterday.  At  the 
Little  Arkansas  we  found  a  small  party  of  traders, 
five  persons  and  one  wagin,  going  to  trade  in  Sante 
fe  and  then  settle  in  California.  A  cold,  sleety  rain 
fell  on  us  all  day  and  the  wind  from  the  north.  At 
night  the  rain  increased  and  made  our  night  very 
uncomfortable.  The  stream  we  are  encamped  on,  is 
the  same  we  encamped  on,  the  6th.  Those  traders 
inform  us  that  the  Governor  of  Sante  Fe  is  expected 
at  the  Arkansas  with  an  escort  to  the  traders.  The 
trail  crossing  the  Arkansas  30  miles  from  this. — 
The  old  Spaniard  who  was  robbed  last  spring,  was 
killed  near  our  camp  of  yesterday. 

27th  day.  22  day's  marching.  June  9th  Friday. 
The  rain  ceased  about  10  A.  M.  marched  at  12  and 
came  W.  S.  W.  9  miles  and  encamped  on  a  large 
creek  putting  into  the  Arkansas  above  our  Camp  of 
June  5th.  This  creek  was  at  first  taken  for  the 
Arkansas  river  itself  —  our  first  four  miles  was 
through  the  prairie,  then,  for  2  miles  through  the 
Sand  hills  which  we  passed  in  another  place  on  the 
6th  —  No  Buffalo  in  sight  to  day.  After  travelling 
through  the  Sand  hills  we  came  to  the  open  prairie 
and  travelled  about  2  miles.  The  timber  on  this 
creek  is  Elm  and  Box  Elder  and  not  large ;  it  grows 
in  groves  along  the  course  of  the  stream,  some  places 
an  acre  or  two  covered  with  it. — 
The  traders  in  company. —  28th  day.  23rd  day's 
marching.  June  10th  Saturday  Started  at  ^  past 
6.  and  after  travelling  5  miles  S.  W.  came  to  the 


208      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Arkansas  river,  at  a  point,  where  for  miles  up  and 
clown,  not  a  tree  was  growing.  Crossed  with  some 
difficulty  as  the  river  was  rising  and  followed  the 
right  bank  up  passing  through  some  swamp  and 
sand  hills  for  7  miles,  then  came  to  a  creek  of  some 
size  with  water  almost  as  salt  as  the  ocean.  After 
passing  this  we  came  up  the  river  3  miles  further 
and  encamped  in  a  thicket  of  Chickasaw  plum 
bushes,  and  other  brush.  The  grass  and  wood  and 
water  being  in  no  other  place  so  close  together.  The 
water  in  the  river  as  cold  as  ice  water,  and  almost 
milk  white  from  the  mud  and  sand. 

29th  day.  24th  clays  marching.  June  11th  Sun- 
day. Captain  Boone,  Lts.  [John]  Buford  and  An- 
derson and  12  men  started  this  morning  after  buf- 
falo with  a  hope  of  finding  some  within  10  miles, 
though  there  none  in  sight.  After  travelling  south 
about  20  miles  they  fell  in  with  buffalo  and  having 
loaded  their  horses  returned  to  Camp  which  they 
reached  at  2  o'clock  the  next  morning.  Their  first 
4  miles  was  through  Sand  hills  or  drifting  sand  and 
in  one  place,  a  lake  near  a  mile  long,  of  salt  water; 
they  then  went  8  miles  through  an  open  prairie  and 
then  got  into  the  sand  hills  again.  They  passed  two 
creeks,  perhaps  branches  of  the  Salt  Creek  of  yester- 
day, else,  they  are  creeks  lost  in  the  sand  —  To  the 
S.  E.  of  their  course  was  a  vast  sand  plain.  During 
their  absence  the  Camp  was  moved  2  miles  S.  W. 
Still  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  Parties  out  from 
Camp  discovered  a  small  Salt  plain  on  the  Salt 
branch  of  the  Creek  of  yesterday,  about  4  miles  from 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  209 

Camp.  S.  The  salt  was  crystalized  on  a  place  which 
the  water  overflowed  similar  to  the  Pawsa  —  called 
this  Creek  Carbine  Creek,  from  a  man  losing  his 
carbine  there  —  near  200  Elk  seen  within  10  miles 
of  Camp  and  plenty  of  buffalo  S.  W.  within  5  miles 
beyond  a  high  range  of  sand  hills. — 

30th  day.  June  12  Monday. —  Remained  in  Camp 
all  day,  and  sent  out  a  party  to  watch  the  buffalo 
seen  S.  W.  yesterday. — 

31st  day.  25th  days  marching.  June  13th  Tues- 
day. Marched  up  the  river  about  5  miles  and  sent 
off  a  party  for  buffalo  and  encamped.  After  a  short 
time,  the  Dragoons  from  Fort  Leavenworth  were 
seen  on  the  trace  across  the  river.  Supposing  the 
crossing  to  be  near  as  the  Indians  had  represented 
and  also  the  citizens  we  had  in  Company,  the  Camp 
was  broken  up  and  the  column  got  ready  to  move 
higher  up.  About  this  time  Lieut  Johnston  rode 
into  Camp  from  the  chase  with  a  severe  wound  in 
his  foot;  his  gun,  which  was  slung  to  the  saddle, 
having  gone  off,  accidentally,  and  a  ball,  of,  about 
12  to  the  pound,  passed  through  his  foot.  As  soon 
as  this  was  dressed,  he  was  placed  in  a  wagon  and 
the  march  continued,  and  camp  was  again  made 
about  10  miles  west  of  the  camp  of  the  11th  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Arkansas  opposite  to  the  Walnut 
creek  on  the  Sante  Fe  trace.  On  this  Creek  the 
Dragoons  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  under  Capt. 
Cooke,  were  encamped,  consisting  of  Companies  A. 
F.  &  H.  Co.  C  being  back  on  the  trace  with  the 
traders.    We  here  found  that  the  trace  crosses  the 


15 


210      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

[?]  100  miles  above  this  point:  we  also  learnt  that 
the  traders  felt  no  apprehension  that  Col.  War- 
field  had  only  30  men  with  him  instead  of  6  or  700. 
We  were  informed  that  Charvis  [Chavez] ;  the  Mex- 
ican who  was  murdered,  had  been  killed  on  the  Little 
Arkansas.  This  evening  our  Camp  was  surrounded 
by  thousands  of  buffalo,  and  the  grass  very  much 
eaten  off  by  them. 

3 2d.  day.  June  14th  Wednesday. —  All  the  men 
employed  in  drying  buffalo  meat  to  day.  This  night 
we  had  a  terrible  thunder  storm  with  a  great  quan- 
tity of  hail  and  wind.  All  our  tents  blew  down, 
except  two  or  three,  and  some  of  our  horses  ran 
away.    We  recovered  these,  however,  the  next  day. — 

33rd.  day.  June  15tli  Thursday.  The  river  rising, 
and  no  crossing.  Parties  out  in  search  of  horses 
succeeded  in  bringing  all  of  them  in :  This  night  we 
had  another  terrible  thunder  storm  with  not  quite  so 
much  wind  and  hail,  and  being  better  prepared  few- 
er of  our  tents  blew  down. 

34th  day.  June  16th  Friday.  This  morning  the 
citizens  with  their  wagon  made  an  effort  to  get  over 
the  river,  and  a  Sergeant  and  four  mules  from  H  «& 
E  Companies  were  sent  to  assist  them.  The  Quick- 
sand being  bad,  one  of  the  mules  of  Co.  H.  was 
drowned  and  two  wagon  Saddles  lost.  This  day  a 
hunting  party  was  sent  out  and  brought  in  one  ante- 
lope and  some  buffalo. — 

35th  day.  June  17.  Saturday. —  Eiver  still 
rising  —  a  pretty  severe  rain  fell  this  morning  — 
cleared  oif  about  11  o'clock,  still  a  very  heavy  black 
cloud  in  the  S.  with  thunder. — 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  211 

SGth  day.  June  18th  Sunday. —  Eiver  falling  a 
little.  Afternoon  several  herds  of  buffalo  came 
thro '  camp,  or  near  it,  crossing  the  river  just  below 
—  parties  met  them  on  the  prairie  and  killed  several. 
In  destroying  them,  the  surest  weapon  is  a  short 
barrelled  shot-gun  carrying  a  large  ball ;  as  they  are 
the  most  easily  managed.  The  meat  on  the  rump 
generally  the  most  tender  as  the  muscles  in  that 
quarter  are  not  much  used,  the  closer  to  the  bones 
the  better.  We  cut  the  meat  off  and  cut  it  in  long 
strings  and  place  it  on  a  low  scaffold  of  poles,  over  a 
brisk  fire;  and  in  one  day  with  the  sun  it  is  dry 
enough  to  pack  away  for  use.  A  little  salt  will  aid 
in  curing  but  it  is  not  absolutely  required.  The  fat  of 
the  buifalo  is  more  oily  than  tallow  and  is  better  for 
cooking.  In  selecting  an  animal  from  the  herd  to  kill, 
one  should  look  to  their  thickness  through  the  hump, 
they  will  be  the  fattest  that  are  broadest  through 
there,  and  plump.  For  a  mile  or  two  they  run  almost 
as  fast  as  a  horse  and  are  then  easily  caught.  Their 
hides  are  very  thick  and  from  the  form  of  the  Ani- 
mal they  are  well  adapted  to  make  skin  boats  of. 
Capt  Boone  showed  us  how  to  make  one.  thus:  get 
poles  a  little  larger  than  a  man's  wrist  and  split 
them  and  bend  them  over,  sticking  both  ends  in  the 
ground,  for  the  ribs  of  the  boat,  some  longitudinally 
and  others  transversely,  making  the  boat  8  or  10 
feet  long  according  to  the  size  of  the  skin,  and  four 
or  five,  or  six  feet  wide,  one  pole  along  the  keel  and 
others  obliquely  [drawing  in  MS.]  from  stem  to 
stern  to  give  shape  to  the  boat.    Then  [?]  the  poles 


212      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

together  with  thongs.  Lay  the  skin  down  with  the 
hair  next  the  ribs  and  stretch  it  down  to  the  whaling 
or  rib  which  forms  the  gunwhale  of  the  boat,  trim  off 
the  edges  and  cut  loop  holes  through  it  and  lash  it 
along,  let  it  dry  in  the  sun  if  you  have  time,  if  not 
reverse  it  at  once,  and  cut  off  any  part  of  the  ribs 
that  stick  up  in  the  way.  An  extra  strip  may  be  put 
on  around  the  gunwhale  on  the  outside.  One  of 
these  boats  is  not  easily  paddled  in  a  rapid  current 
or  in  high  wind.  The  safest  way  is  for  a  man  to 
wade  or  swim  and  tow  the  boat  along.  One  of  these 
boats  will  carry  800  lbs.  To  lash  several  together, 
they  are  placed  two  and  two  along  side,  and  one  in 
bow  and  stern  [drawing  in  MS.]  with  poles  lashed 
across  the  top  longitudinally  and  transversely.  In 
this  way  they  increase  in  buoyancy  and  become  more 
manageable.  Six  boats  thus  secured  would  float 
6000  lbs.  To  stop  a  bullet  hole  in  the  hide  a  skewer 
of  hard  wood  is  run  through  from  each  side  and  a 
thread  wrapped  around  under  each  end  of  it,  as  a 
needle  is  secured  in  a  coat  [drawing  in  MS.] 

37tli  day  June  19th  Monday.  The  river  still  fall- 
ing. No  tidings  of  the  traders.  Saw  some  cattle 
feeding  on  the  hills  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
which  we  found,  belonged  to  Mr.  Bent  from  Bent's 
Fort,  on  the  Arkansas,  who  is  awaiting  the  arrival 
of  some  more  of  his  party  from  above  before  going 
in  to  Missouri.  He  informs  us  that  all  the  grass  had 
been  eaten  off  by  the  Buffalo  between  this  and  the 
mountains,  so  that  his  cattle  nearly  starved.  The 
day  was  fair,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  S.  all 
day. 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  213 

38th  day.  June  20th  Tuesday.  Buffalo  came 
near  camp  again  and  crossed  the  river  at  our  side. 
The  officers  started  after  them  and  killed  3  within  a 
short  distance  of  Camp  the  river  at  this  point  runs 
nearly  N.  E.  coming  still  more  from  the  south  west 
little  west  for  10  miles.  The  camping  grounds  are 
not  very  good  on  this  side  for  twenty  miles  or  more 
below  this  point.  Though  there  is  timber  above  and 
below  for  15  miles.  Heard  to  day  through  Capt 
Cooke,  that  the  traders  with  Capt  Moore  &  Co.  "C." 
were  water  bound  on  the  Cow  Creek  —  Wind,  Strong 
S. 

39th  day.  June  21st.  Wednesday.  Captain 
Cooke  informs  us  to  day  that  the  traders  have  47 
Wagons,  including  3  dearbornes,  that  (Armiko) 
Armijo^^-  is  the  principal  Mexican,  Dr.  East,  the 
American  and,  probably,  Captain  —  As  the  traders 
had  gotten  within  12  miles  and  there  was  no  guessing 
at,  when  the  water  would  allow  them  to  come  on,  and 
as  they  appeared  by  the  intelligence  furnished  by 
Capt  Cooke,  to  be  in  no  sort  of  apprehension  of  an 
attack ;  we  prepared  for  a  move  tomorrow. 

40th  day.  26th  day's,  marching.  June  22nd. 
Thursday.  Started  at  7  A.  M.  and  marched  15  miles 
S.  3°.  W.  and  encamped  on  the  open  prairie  on  the 
heads  of  a  creek  supposed  to  be  the  creek  on  which 
we  encamped  on  the  4th  of  June.  No  timber  in  sight 
since  we  left  the  river.  The  first  7  miles  of  our  jour- 
ney was  through  a  light  sandy  soil,  the  rest  clayey. 
Saw  some  Buffalo,  and  passed  some  of  the  largest 
buffalo  roads  bearing  to  E.  S.  E.  probably  to  the 


214      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Salt  in  that  region. —  This  night  we  had  to  resort  to 
buffalo  dung  for  fuel  —  it  burns  like  peat  —  we  made 
furnaces  of  sod,  and  found  it  to  be  excellent  fuel. 

41st  day.  27th  days  marching.  June  23d.  Fri- 
day. Marched  at  >^  past  7.  and  travelled  18  miles 
S  10°  W.  and  encamped  again  on  the  open  prairie 
on  a  pond  of  water  —  Country  very  level  the  first  6 
miles,  thro'  clayey  soil  and  fiat  prairie,  the  next  6, 
thro'  low  sand  hills,  then  open  prairie  again.  We 
got  on  one  eminence  of  20  feet  above  the  level  2 
miles  before  we  encamped,  and  saw  a  grand  sight  of 
perhaps  10,000  Buffalo  feeding  on  the  plain  below 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Here  we  saw  a  herd 
of  wild  horses  of  a  dozen  in  number  —  They  ran  off 
through  the  herds  of  buffalo,  which  did  not  seem  to 
mind  them  —  Water  tonight  filled  with  animalculae 
and  water  insects  —  used  buffalo  dung  for  fires. 
Encamped  early  on  account  of  the  grass. — 

42nd  day.  28th  day  marching.  June  24th  Satur- 
day. Marched  at  ^  past  7.  travelled  12  miles  S. 
10°  W.  and  encamped  on  the  waters  of  the  Ne-ne- 
scah  where  they  break  out  in  springs  along  the 
banks  and  through  the  sand  from  the  sunken  water 
from  above,  as  the  Creek  where  we  first  came  to  it 
four  miles  from  Camp  had  a  dry  bed,  the  waters 
being  lost  in  the  sand.  A  mile  or  two  further  they 
course  out  again,  and  at  this  point  the  stream  is, 
apparently,  permanent.  Springs  of  excellent  water, 
groves  of  timber,  and  hills  hemming  in  our  encamp- 
ment on  all  sides, —  with  good  grass  makes  it  one  of 
the  most  pleasant  ones  we  have  had.     Our  march 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  215 


to  day  was  over  more  undulating  prairie,  passing 
one  creek  about  5  miles  from  Camp  this  morning 
with  no  timber  on  it,  running  E.  S.  E.  Started  a 
wild  horse  to  day,  and  one  of  the  officers  chasing  it 
fell  in  with  a  herd  of  about  30,  headed  by  a  large 
white  horse  with  black  spots  on  his  croup. —  Saw 
plenty  of  Buffalo  to  day,  and  Elk  came  near  our 
camp  this  evening.  The  course  of  the  Creek  S.  E. 
where  we  first  saw  it,  its  bed  was  much  larger  than 
where  it  commenced  to  run,  as  if  a  large  river  was 
lost  in  the  sand,  and  a  small  rivulet  started  below 
that  point.  In  the  sand  found  was  a  quantity  of 
dark  sand  which  was  strongly  attracted  by  the 
magnet. — 

43rd  day.  June  25th.  Sunday.  Laid  in  Camp 
all  day  on  account  of  the  sickness  of  one  of  the  men 
—  Parties  of  men  and  officers  today  brought  in 
specimens  of  gypsum  in  all  its  forms,  buffalo  were 
killed,  partridges,  rabbits  and  turkeys  were  seen 
near  camp.  To  this  point  the  buffalo  roads  from  all 
directions  were  converging,  it  being  a  favourite  re- 
sort no  doubt,  in  summer  — 

44tli  day.  29th  day's  inarching.  June  26 fh  Mon- 
day. Marched  about  8.  After  coming  a  mile  or  two 
we  got  on  the  high  ridges  where  we  had  a  most 
gratifying  sight  in  one  of  the  most  curious,  as  well 
as,  beautiful  countries  we  have  seen.  Before  us  8  or 
10  miles  lay  the  bed  of  the  Sha  wa  Caspa  R[iver?] 
a  deep  and  abrupt  valley  of  not  more  than  two  miles 
in  width  from  which  ran  out  in  every  direction,  short 
creeks  and  ravines,  cutting  up  the  Country  into  a 


216      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

multitude  of  little  valleys,  in  each  of  which  there 
were  patches  of  timber ;  all  of  which  was  below  the 
general  surface  of  the  Country,  so  that  one  might 
approach  very  near  to  one  of  these  streams  without 
seeing  it.  The  views  from  the  top  of  the  ridges  was 
extensive  and  grand.  We  found  the  hills  to  be  com- 
posed of  gypsum  alternating  with  red  clay.  The 
gypsum  was  in  all  its  forms.  Crossed  the  Sha  wa 
cas  pa  [River]  and  encamped  in  a  small  branch  half 
a  mile  from  it.  This  water  was  not  good:  muddy 
and  brackish.  Near  our  camp  the  hills  had,  from 
the  washing  assumed  various  fantastic  forms.  Trav- 
eled South  12  Miles  to  day.  [Several  drawings  in 
MS.]  The  seams  of  Gypsum  often  projecting  out 
from  the  hill  sides  often  formed  an  almost  insur- 
mountable obstacle  to  climbing  up  them.  This  of 
course  was  only  the  case  when  the  hill  was  cut  off 
from  the  chain.  Killed  some  Elk  and  Buffalo  near 
Camp  — 

45th  day.  30th  day's  marching.  June  27th. 
Tuesday.  Marched  about  8.  course  S.  10  miles  — 
the  first  four  miles  very  difficult  climbing  the  hills 
on  the  South  side  of  the  river,  found  Gypsum  here 
in  greater  quantities,  pure,  white,  hard,  and  soft. 
Dripping  over  the  rocks  was  found  a  small  spring 
tasting  very  strong  of  Epsom  salts.  On  the  ridges 
we  were  joined  by  a  band  of  Osages  who  took  us  to 
their  camp  when  we  encamped  for  the  purpose  of 
gaining  information.  The  Country  was  similar  to 
that  of  yesterday  with  many  grand  views  from  the 
hill  tops.     Water,  not  good,  but  creeks  every  two 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  217 

miles. —  The  chief  of  the  Osages  was  To-ca-sab-be. 
Some  of  his  people  wanted  the  guns  and  horses  we 
had  taken  from  To-wan-ga-ha  's  people,  but  we  could 
not  give  them  to  them,  as  they  were  not  the  owners. 
They  informed  us  that  it  was  three  days  march  West 
of  South  to  the  Salt  Eock  and  two  days  to  the  nes- 
ga-tung  a  or  Pewsa  Salt  plain,  and  that  the  creek 
we  were  on  was  a  branch  of  nes  ca  tin  ga  which 
emptied  itself  at  the  salt  plain.  This  latter  infor- 
mation we  are  disposed  to  doubt  as  we  expect  to 
see  the  Shaw-was-cos-pay,  yet  crossing  our  course 
—  Strata  dip  slightly  S.  E,  water  courses  running 
north  of  east. — 

46th  day.  31st  day  marching.  June  28th 
Wednesday.  Started  at  8  and  travelled  15  miles  S 
5  W  —  After  travelling  9  miles  crossed  a  River 
which  we  take  to  be  the  Sha  wa-cos-pay,  which  the 
Indians  tell  us  is  the  nescutunga.  Our  route  for  the 
first  8  miles  was  over  the  high  prairie  ridges  where 
we  could  see  right  and  left  for  20  miles,  the  country 
rolling  off  in  successive  ridges  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  The  last  five  miles  we  got  along  with 
difficulty  as  we  came  again  into  the  gypseous  hills  — 
Water  at  the  river  and  in  the  spring  of  the  ravines, 
the  latter  with  some  mineral  taste.  Saw  buffalo  and 
one  herd  of  wild  horses.  The  river  ran  S.  of  East. 
— •  Timber,  Cedar,  and  tallow  tree,  cotton  Wood  and 
Elm  —  one  character  given  to  the  country  by  the 
Gypsum  is  that  the  Soil  is  very  hard  when  dry,  and 
the  streams  are  difficult  to  cross  from  the  depth  of 
the  [courses?],  and  when  wet,  are  swampy. 


218      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

47th  day.  32nd  day  marching.  June  29th  Thurs- 
day. Started  at  8,  travelled  S.  S.  W.  18  miles  and 
encamped  on  the  branches  of  a  stream  supposed  to 
be  the  nescatunga.  Our  first  five  miles  was  in  get- 
ting out  of  the  heads  of  the  hollows  of  the  stream  we 
encamped  on. —  Here  we  encountered  the  Gypsum 
hills  again,  capped  and  washed  as  those  of  the  26th. 
June  —  the  caps  were  of  a  strata  some  ten  feet 
thick,  of  friable  over  lying  red  clay  —  strata  still 
dipping  slightly  S.  E.  Found  the  gypsum  in  im- 
mense chrystaline  plates  perfectly  transparent  on 
the  heads  of  a  stream  flowing  S  to  the  river  now  in 
front  of  us.  Water  scarce  to  day,  also  timber,  route 
rough  in  many  places ;  saw  a  few  buffalo  and  crossed 
one  indian  trail  going  West.  When  we  came  on  the 
ridges,  8  miles  back,  we  saw  near  the  stream  in  front 
of  us,  a  large  extent  of  surface  covered  with  white 
substance  —  no  doubt.  Salt. 

[drawings  in  MS.] 

48th  day.  33rd  days  marchings.  June  30th. 
Friday.  Broke  up  camp  and  moved  4  miles  S.  S.  W. 
to  the  vicinity  of  the  Salt  plain.  Salt  in  great  abun- 
dance was  found,  chrystalized  on  the  surface  of  the 
plain  which  like  the  Pew-sa  is  nothing  more  than  a 
wide  bed  of  the  river.  It  is  in  a  sort  of  bottom  mak- 
ing it  wider  than  the  average  width  of  the  river. 
The  average  width  is  near  a  mile  —  The  rock  Salt 
appears  to  lay  near  the  surface  of  the  water  here 
and  springs  boiling  up  through  it  cover  the  surface 
with  a  concentrated  solution  which  at  once  begins  to 
deposite  chrystals  —  a  crust  of  chrystals  is  now  on 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  219 

the  plain  in  many  places  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  is 
easily  obtained,  perfectly  clean  and  as  white  as  any- 
thing can  be.  The  quantity  of  Salt  appears  to  be 
unlimited. —  Mustered  to  day. 

49tli  day.  34th  day's  marching.  Jtdy  1st  Satur- 
day. Broke  up  camp  and  moved  across  the  river  and 
Salt  plain  S.  W.  4  miles  and  encamped  on  a  small 
creek  of  water  slightly  brackish,  but  as  good  as  any 
we  have  found  in  the  gypsum.  In  crossing  the  river 
we  had  some  trouble  in  the  quicksand  with  the  wag- 
ons. The  bed  of  the  river  and  Salt  plain  was  about 
two  miles  wide ;  the  salt,  not  as  generally  covering  it 
as  the  Pew-sa,  but  thicker  in  the  places  where  found 
than  what  we  saw  at  the  big  salt.  This  afternoon  it 
rained  and  Talle,  the  Osage  Chief,  and  his  people 
came  and  encamped  with  us.  They  informed  us  that 
all  the  chrystalized  salt  on  the  surface  of  the  plain 
is  washed  off  when  it  rains  heavily  (probably  only 
dissolved)  and  that  in  a  few  days  the  sun  brings  it 
back  again. 

50th  day.  Jidy  2nd  Sunday.  Parties  went  out 
after  buffalo  this  morning,  and  numbers  were  killed 
near  our  Camp.  A  party  went  to  explore  the  Salt 
plain  and  search  for  the  Rock  Salt.  The  whole  cave 
on  the  right  of  the  two  forks  of  the  river  appeared  to 
be  one  immense  salt  spring  of  water  so  much  concen- 
trated that  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the  point  of  break- 
ing forth  it  begins  depositing  its  salt.  In  this  way  a 
large  crust  or  Rock  is  formed  all  over  the  bottom 
for  perhaps  160  acres.^^^  Digging  through  the  sand 
for  a  few  inches  anywhere  in  this  space  we  could  find 


220      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

the  solid  Salt,  so  hard  that  there  was  no  means  in 
our  power  of  getting  up  a  block  of  it.  We  broke  our 
mattock  in  the  attempt.  In  many  places  through 
this  Rock  salt  crust  the  water  boiled  up  as  clear  as 
chrystal ;  tempting  to  one  suffering  from  thirst ;  but 
so  salt,  that  our  hands  after  being  immersed  in  it 
and  suffered  to  dry,  became  as  white  as  snow. 
Thrusting  the  arm  down  one  of  these  holes  they  ap- 
peared to  be  walled  with  salt  as  far  down  as  the 
arm  could  reach.  The  Cliffs  which  overhang  this 
place  are  composed  of  red  clay  and  gypsum  and 
capped  with  a  stratum  of  gypsum,  no  doubt  the 
same  as  that  which  capped  the  hills  we  passed  on 
the  29th  of  June.  If  such  be  the  fact  (and  there  can 
be  no  doubt  of  it)  The  source  of  these  springs  lays 
to  the  north,  and  if  there  be  Rock  Salt  in  this  forma- 
tion, it  would  be  found  among  the  hills  we  have  been 
crossing  for  the  last  few  days. —  We  found  this  Salt 
a  little  bitter  from  the  impurities  it  contains,  prob- 
ably, Epsom  Salt  principally.  We  are  now  satisfied 
that  this  river  must  be  the  Semarone  [Cimarron]. 
Two  forks  came  together  here  the  north  comes  here 
from  the  N.  W.  the  South,  from  the  South  West. 
The  river  flows  a  little  south  of  East  after  the  junc- 
tion in  a  sandy  bed  a  mile  wide,  [drawing  in  MS.] 
The  Indians  inform  us  that  there  is  salt  between  this 
and  the  north  fork  of  the  Canadian,  4  days  journey 
hence  —  It  seems  probable  that  this  river  is  not  the 
same  with  the  one  in  which  we  found  the  big  Salt. 
The  north  fork  is  the  Semarone  [Cimarron]. — 

51st  day.    35th  day's  marching  Jidy  3rd.    Mon- 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  221 

day.  Broke  up  Camp  and  marched  for  the  nescu- 
bhe-toh-ta  or  salt  in  the  plain  away  from  the  river. 
Marched  15  miles  east,  crossing  the  river  8  miles 
from  Camp  where  we  discovered  in  the  bluff  a  strata 
of  blue  clay  underlying  the  red  clay,  and  about  on 
the  level  of  the  salt  spring  of  yesterday.  This  clay 
and  the  red  in  these  bluffs  taste  quite  salty;  probably 
from  these  the  Salt  Springs  come.  These  strata 
capped  with  gypsum  out  crop  all  along  the  river  in 
bluffs  near  100  feet  high ;  giving  a  picturesque  char- 
acter to  the  scenery.  Above  on  the  high  prairie 
mounds  of  the  same  material  show  from  afar  pro- 
jected against  the  horizon  in  the  Salt  region  [draw- 
ing in  MS.]  might  indicate  their  proximity.  The 
route  to  day  was  difficult  for  wagons, —  part  gypsum 
and  part  sand  hills.  Encamped  on  a  creek  among 
low  sand  hills  —  water  bad  and  scarce  —  The  strata 
on  the  hill  tops  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  appear 
to  have  a  dip  to  the  north  at  this  point  as  if  there 
was  a  bend  in  the  strata  along  the  line  of  the  river, 
though  the  general  dip  is,  no  doubt,  from  the  moun- 
tains. As  this  formation  of  gypsum  and  red  clay 
outcrops  along  in  a  line  W.  of  South  until  it  is  found 
at  the  paunee  peaks.  In  one  place  on  the  Canadian 
it  forms  a  deep  channel  for  the  river  of  8  or  10  miles 
of  steep  walls  on  each  side  with  no  streams  putting 
in  on  either  side. 

52nd  day.  36th  day's  marching  July  4th  Tues- 
day. Marched  4  miles  E.  S.  E.  and  encamped  on  a 
pretty  grove  of  Elm,  hackberry,  Tallow  tree,  and 
chittim   [wood]   with  good  grass  and  water. —  and 


222      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

buffalo  in  sight,  concluded  to  spend  the  4th  and  rest 
the  teams  which  are  nearly  worn  out.  The  country 
sandy,  with  a  few  sand  hills.  Spent  the  Fourth  in 
roasting  fine  Buffalo  meat. —  Cured  some. — 

53rd  day.  37th  day's  marching  —  Jidy  5. 
Wednesday.  Marched  about  8.  from  our  pleasant 
encampment  course  18  miles  E.  S.  E.  our  journey 
was  over  low  sand  hills  generally,  covered  with 
grass;  wdth  one  or  two  plains  intervening.  The 
Semarone  lay  on  our  right  all  day  with  its  high 
gypsum  banks  ranging  along  its  southern  shore. 
Encamped  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  river  on  a 
creek  of  good  water  running  out  of  the  sand.  Came 
this  afternoon  to  some  black  jack  oak  groves,  some 
of  the  trees  two  feet  in  diameter.  This  is  the  first 
black  jack  we  have  seen  since  we  first  came  among 
the  Red  water  on  the  other  side  of  the  east  branches 
of  the  Eed  Fork  or  Nescatunga.  The  grove  near  our 
Camp  has  mulberry,  bitter  elm,  &  dog  wood. 

54th  day.  38th  day's  marching  July  6.  Thurs- 
day. Marched  about  8.  came  S.  50°  E.  10  miles. 
We  first  marched  S.  4  miles  and  crossed  the  Sema- 
rone [Cimarron]  or  Big  Red  Fork,  where  its  sandy 
bed  was  a  mile  wide  with  no  water,  scarcely,  running. 
On  the  surface  of  the  sand  an  occasional  spot  would 
have  a  slight  film  of  salt  chrystalized  on  it.  The 
route  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  w^as  through  sand 
hills  with  clear  water,  on  the  south  side  thro'  a  plain 
of  red  soil  laying  at  the  back  of  high  gypsum  hills  a 
mile  or  two  to  our  right.  The  guUeys  difficult  for 
wagons  to  get  over.     Encamped  on  a  creek  with 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  223 

muddy  bed  running  north.  The  river  a  half  mile  to 
our  north,  running  E.  S.  E.,  not  finding  the  salt  de- 
scribed by  the  indians,  here ;  we  intend  retracing  our 
steps  a  little  tomorrow,  as  we  must  have  passed  it. 
Private  Bean  of  E.  Co  died,  at  this  camp  at  9  P.  M. 
of  a  desease  of  the  brain  of  old  standing.  He  has 
been  hauled  in  the  wagon  since  we  left  the  Arkansas 
River. — 

55th  day.  39th  day's  marching.  Jidy  7th  Fri- 
day. Buried  Bean  on  the  bank  of  the  creek,  near  a 
Cotton  Wood  tree,  which  was  marked  with  his  name. 
Called  the  Creek  Dragoon  Creek,  from  the  circum- 
stances of  his  death.  It  is  3  miles  west  of  what  we 
suppose  to  be  the  last  of  the  gypsum  hills  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Semarone.  Marched  10  miles 
West  —  Route  along  the  river  first  north  West,  then 
off  South  —  very  rough  the  high  gypsum  cliffs  over- 
hanging us  all  day.  Some  of  them  very  picturesque, 
all  near  200  feet  high.  The  strata  of  blue  clay  which 
lay  at  the  bed  of  the  river  at  the  nes  cu  ca  sea  pay  is 
here  some  distance  up  the  cliff.  Still  there  does  not 
appear  any  reason  to  doubt  that  the  strata  dip  S.  E. 
They  are  so  nearly  horizontal  however,  that  it  is 
impossible  to  make  sure  by  the  eye.  It  is  probable 
that  there  is  a  logal  [local]  dip  to  the  north  near  the 
rock  salt  as  the  water  boils  up  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river.  If  not,  the  spring  must  come  under  the 
river  and  boil  up  on  the  south  side.  It  is  evident, 
however,  that  the  general  dip  of  these  strata  is  from 
the  mountains.  Capt  Boone  has  observed  these 
gypsum  S.  S.  W.  from  this  at  the  Paunee  Peaks, 


224      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

south  of  this.  On  the  Canadian  it  forms  a  channel 
for  the  river  called  a  canyon  by  the  Spaniards,  or  a 
deep  channel  for  800  miles  with  no  streams  putting 
into  it  and  very  difficult  to  cross. —  We  searched  for 
the  salt  on  the  plain  away  from  the  river,  as  de- 
scribed by  the  Osages,  but  saw  nothing  of  it.  Con- 
cluded to  march  westward  tomorrow  to  get  into  the 
buffalo  again.  Encamped  on  a  creek  running  north. 
56tli  day.  40th  day's  inarching.  July  8th  Satur- 
day. Marched  about  8.  20  miles  S  30°  W.  and  en- 
camped on  the  north  fork  of  the  Canadian.  Our 
route  lay,  for  10  miles,  up  the  divide  between  two 
creeks  —  branches  of  the  Semarone  [Cimarron]  — 
the  one  we  encamped  on,  and  the  one  we  crossed  at 
mid-day  yesterday.  After  we  got  on  the  ridge  be- 
tween the  Semarone  and  the  north  Fork,  we  came 
into  a  dense  thicket  of  black  jack  which  we  had  to 
cut  through  for  near  a  mile,  we  then  came  in  sight 
of  the  north  fork,  and  came  down  to  it  through  a 
skirt  of  prairie  with  thickets  of  black  jack  on  either 
side.  The  gypsum  dipped  under  the  hills  we  climb 
this  morning,  and  we  are  now  in  a  sandy  country. 
No  buffalo.  The  vegetation  changing  somewhat  with 
the  soil.  Throughout  the  gypsum  country  the  red 
cedar  grew  on  the  high  point  of  the  hollows,  in  some 
places,  abundantly,  low  down,  the  tallow  tree  and  a 
sort  of  mock  orange  called  the  chittim  wood  by  Capt 
Boone,  with  Cotton  wood  and  bitter  elm  formed  the 
greatest  part  of  the  forest  trees.  From  the  time  we 
left  the  ne-ne-Sea  until  we  got  out  of  the  gypsum  all 
the  water  was  rendered  unfit,  unpalatable  by  the 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  225 

solution  of  various  salts:  In  some  cases  the  rice 
boiled  in  the  water  was  so  bitter  as  to  be  unfit  to  eat. 
We  could  not  detect  any,  by  the  taste,  except  the 
Epsom  and  Glauber  Salts :  but  as  the  water  rendered 
the  mouth  sore,  we  presumed,  there  was  sulphate  of 
iron  (vitriol)  in  it.  In  this  route  from  the  Arkansas 
to  the  North  fork,  the  greatest  difficulty  in  the  pas- 
sage of  troops  will  be  the  scarcity  of  grass  near 
wood  and  water.  In  the  dry  season  the  grass  would 
be  very  much  burnt  up. — 

57th  day.  41st  day's  marching.  July  9th  Sun- 
day. Marched  about  8.  After  a  shower,  and  went 
5  miles  S.  W.  and,  a  storm  approaching,  we  halted 
and  encamped.  After  the  rain  went  round,  we 
struck  our  tents  and  moved  7  miles  further  South 
and  encamped  on  the  creek  we  halted  on  this  morn- 
ing running  N.  E.  into  the  north  fork;  on  this  we 
found  the  slippery  elm,  the  mulberry,  and  a  sort  of 
black  walnut  with  many  appearances  to  indicate  its 
being  a  new  variety.  The  country  passed  over  to 
day  was  gently  rolling,  and  covered  with  fine  grass ; 
slight  skirts  of  timber  on  all  the  creeks :  soil,  red  and 
sandy  —  No  buffalo  yet  and  very  little  sign.  The 
Country  is  no[t]  hunted  by  the  osages;  they  do  not 
pass  the  north  fork,  it  is  believed,  and  small  bands 
of  creeks,  and  other  Indians  keep  the  Buffalo  fright- 
ened off  from  this  range. — 

58th  day.  42nd  day's  marching.  July  10th  Mon- 
day.—  Marched  about  8.  Eain  again  in  the  morning 
before  we  started.  Came  8  miles  S.  W.  and  en- 
camped on  a  stream  which  is  quite  large  and  with  a 

16 


226      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

sandy  bed,  but  no  running  water.  This  may  be  the 
main  Canadian  but  we  think  it  is  too  near.  The 
Country  begins  to  look  gypseous  again.  On  the 
ridge  we  passed  a  thicket  of  low  blackjack.  Buffalo 
roads  very  large,  but  saw  only  one  Buffalo.  This 
evening  a  party  of  8  or  10  Caddoes  came  to  Camp  — 
they  inform  us  that  there  are  very  few  buffalo  in  the 
country. 

59th  day.  43rd  day's  marching.  July  11th  Tues- 
day. Marched  about  8  and  came  4  miles  S.  and  en- 
camped on  the  south  side  of  the  Canadian  on  a  small 
Creek.  Bought  some  Buffalo  meat  of  the  Caddoes, 
who  are  in  camp  near  us.  There  was  very  little  wa- 
ter running  in  the  river  where  we  crossed  it.  and 
that  soon  sunk  in  the  sands.  The  bed  of  the  River 
half  a  mile  wide  the  Course  S.  E.  To  the  west  the 
high  gypsum  hills  show  themselves.  About  20  miles 
off. 

60th  day.  44th  day's  marching.  July  12. 
Wednesday.  Marched  about  7.  travelled  about  16 
miles  E  and  encamped  on  the  waters  of  a  Creek 
flowing  from  the  Canadian.  Suppose  it  to  be  one 
emptying  into  that  river  20  miles  below  this.  This 
Creek  heads  directly  on  the  bluffs  of  the  river.  Off 
to  the  North  we  see  a  long  range  of  cross  timber  on 
the  ridge  beyond  the  Canadian,  which  is  in  appear- 
ance similar  to  that  crossed  before  cutting  to  the 
north  fork  on  the  8th  July.  This,  and  the  fact  that 
the  Canadian  takes  a  turn  to  the  north  here,  induces 
an  idea,  that  maybe  the  river  we  took  to  be  the  North 
fork   puts   into   the    Canadian   there:   this   is   also 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  227 

strengthened,  by  the  river  being  longer  where  we 
crossed  it,  than  the  North  Fork  should  be.  Fell  in 
with  three  buffalo  this  evening  and  killed  two :  which 
will  enable  us  to  lay  by  tomorrow  and  explore  the 
country  north,  and  rest  our  mules.  The  Country 
passed  over  to  day  was  high,  giving  us  a  sight  of 
hills  to  the  south  of  the  False  washita  twenty  or 
thirty  miles.  The  formation  was  gypsum,  and 
passed  hills  of  it  shortly  after  we  left  camp,  with  the 
strata  contorted  in  every  direction,  face  of  the 
country  beautiful  —  grass  excellent  —  Saw  7  wild 
horses.  Timber  scarce;  but  enough  on  the  Creeks 
for  Camping  purposes  at  all  times. 

61st  day.  July  13th  Thursday. —  Remained  in 
Camp  all  day.  Capt  Boone  went  out  to  explore,  to 
the  north  —  found  it  to  be  15  miles  to  the  Canadian. 
No  signs  of  the  river  we  supposed  to  be  the  North 
Fork,  coming  into  it,  though  that  seemed  probable 
from  the  size  of  the  river  and  from  the  course  of  the 
Canadian  at  this  point. — 

62nd  day.  45th  day's  marching.  July  14th  Fri- 
day. Marched  about  8.  Travelled  18  miles  E.  S.  E. 
The  first  ten  miles  in  the  gypsum  hills  with  deep  and 
precipitous  ravines.  Crossed  one  of  these  at  an  old 
buffalo  road,  and  found  white  oak  and  cedar  trees 
with  others,  in  it,  and  stratum  of  red  sand  stone 
capped  with  gypsum  dipping  S.  E.  After  we  got 
out  of  this,  we  rose  on  a  beautiful  level  prairie  with 
luxuriant  grass,  which  had  two  small  herds  of  wild 
horses  on  it.  This  level  country  continued  for  8 
miles    further,    with    little    interruption.      We    en- 


228      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

camped  on  a  small  prairie  ravine  which  cut  its  way 
through  the  red  sand  stone  we  passed  this  morning. 
There  were  three  prairie  mounds  of  40  or  50  feet  in 
height  on  the  last  8  miles  of  our  route.  During  the 
day  the  valley  of  the  Canadian  lay  5  or  6  miles  to  our 
left,  with  a  thick  forest  of  cross  timber  capping  the 
ridge  beyond  the  whole  way. 

63rd  day.  46th  day's  marching.  July  15th  Sat- 
urday. Marched  about  8.  Travelled  S.  E.  15  miles. 
After  starting,  was  compelled  to  leave  an  old  horse 
of  Company  D,  which  had  taken  sick  during  the 
night.  Our  route  to  day,  generally,  over  level  prai- 
rie, with  the  valley  of  a  large  creek  to  the  right. 
The  prairie  cut  up  with  ravines  occasionally  run- 
ning through  the  red  sand  stone  of  yesterday.  The 
ridge  beyond  the  Canadian  still  capped  with  thickets 
of  trees,  probably  black  jack.  To  the  South-East,  a 
row  of  high  prairie  mounds  beyond  the  creek.  Camp 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  creek  above  mentioned  which 
empties  into  the  Canadian  half  a  mile  from  this. 
Called  the  creek  Cow  wa  map  sha  from  the  wild 
horses  we  saw  on  it. —  Course  of  this  creek,  N.  E. — 

64th  day.  47th  day's  marching.  July  16th  Sun- 
day. Marched  about  8.  Travelled  12  miles  E.  S.  E. 
After  crossing  the  Creek  at  camp,  at  a  good  crossing, 
we  came  within  two  miles  to  another  with  a  deep  bed 
in  the  red  sand  rock.  This  creek  we  had  to  head  a 
mile  or  two  to  the  South.  The  first  four  miles  of 
our  route  w^as  over  a  generally  level  country.  We 
then  came  into  a  country,  with  high  parallel  ridges 
running  into  the  river. —  Towards  evening  the  hills 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  229 

became  more  abrupt,  covered  with  black-jack  — 
Camp  on  a  creek,  the  head  of  which  is  in  a  very 
broken  country.  Vegetation  changing  —  white  oak, 
walnut  and  slippery  elm  on  the  creeks,  on  the  prairie 
abundance  of  chickasaw  plums,  dwarf  buckeye,  and 
dwarf  oak. — 

65th  day.  48th  day's  marching.  July  17th  Mon- 
day.—  Marched  about  8.  Travelled  19  miles  E.  S.  E. 
Most  of  the  country  passed  over  was  beautiful.  A 
large  creek  on  the  right  with  heavy  masses  of  timber 
on  the  ravines  running  to  the  Canadian  to  our  left. 
We  kept  the  dividing  ridge  all  day  which  was  cut 
across  by  hollows  from  the  creek  to  the  river.  Wa- 
ter scarce,  and  the  day  hot,  with  a  good  many  flies : 
our  animals  suffered  very  much.  Encamped  on  this 
creek  which  runs  north  at  this  point  and  goes  into 
the  Canadian  within  a  few  miles  —  Camp  in  sand 
hills  very  low,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  creek. 

66th  day.  49th  day  marching,  July  18th  Tuesday. 
Marched  about  Yz  past  8.  Travelling  14  miles  East. 
Parted  from  Lieut  Johnston  and  Company  to  day : 
he  striking  for  Fort  Washita  agreeably  to  his  orders, 
and  we  making  for  the  Canadian,  with  the  view  of 
crossing  it,  and  travelling  on  the  dividing  ridge  of 
the  Canadian  and  Little  River.  The  Canadian  where 
we  crossed  it  ran  E.  S.  E.  its  bed  very  nearly  dry: 
water  only  being  found  at  the  mouths  of  the  various 
creeks  putting  into  it,  but  soon  swallowed  up  by  the 
sand  composing  the  bed  of  the  river.  Banks  of  the 
Canadian  on  either  side  consisting  of  Sand  hills  ex- 
tending from  half  to  a  full  mile  from  its  shores  and 


230      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

covered  with  plum  thickets,  bearing  a  fine  large  red 
fruit,  which  we  found  ripe  and  very  palatable.  Met 
our  Shawnee  friends  who  state  the  distance  to 
Choteau's  trading  house  as  trifling.  Country  — 
after  leaving  the  sand  hills  —  rolling  prairie  inter- 
sected by  numerous  wooded  creeks  rendering  the 
scenery  very  pleasing  to  the  eye.  Camped  on  a 
Creek  running  into  Little  Eiver,  north.  Cross  tim- 
bers [blank  in  MS.]  up  4  miles  from  our  Camp. 

67tli  day  50  day's  march  Jidy  19 fh  Wednesday. 
Started  about  7.  Travelled  E.  on  what  we  thought 
to  be  the  divide  between  Little  River  and  the  Cana- 
dian, making  a  distance  of  14  miles,  and  passing  over 
a  flat  prairie  country,  very  much  parched  up  by  the 
summer  heat.  Vegetation  very  scant;  the  buffalo 
grass  having  been  eaten  down  very  close  by  the  buf- 
falo, and  not  being  yet  replaced  by  the  long  prairie 
grass,  which  is  gradually  working  its  way  to  the 
mountains.  Skirted  the  cross  timbers  for  about  two 
miles.  This  timber  is  so  called,  from  the  fact  that  it 
runs  from  Red  River  across  to  the  Arkansas,  Arms 
of  it  extending  north  of  the  Arkansas.  It  consists 
of  dw^arfish  looking  scrub  oaks,  whose  branches  ex- 
tending down  and  interlacing  render  it  almost  im- 
penetrable. Camped  on  the  South  side  of  Little 
River,  on  a  tributary  of  that  stream. 

68th  day  51st  day's  march.  Jidy  20th  Thursday. 
Started  between  6  and  7,  retracing  our  steps  for 
about  4  miles  —  Capt.  Boone  having  made  an  exam- 
ination of  the  country  yesterday  evening,  after  we 
encamped,  thinking  that  the  divide  of  the  Canadian 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  231 

and  Little  Eiver  ran  to  the  right  of  us : —  in  which 
opinion  he  was  correct.  Travelling  extremely  tedi- 
ous to  the  mules  in  consequence  of  the  numerous 
little  creeks  we  had  to  cross  in  order  to  reach  the 
divide  of  the  main  stream  its  head  of  Little  River 
being  one.  This  stream,  running  about  E.  S.  E.  is 
difficult  to  cross  with  wagons :  its  banks  being  steep 
and  composed  of  red  mud,  and  the  growth  of  timber 
and  under  brush  being  very  heavy,  occupying  some 
time  in  getting  a  road  to  enable  the  wagons  to  work 
through.  The  head  waters  of  Little  River  rise  with- 
in half  a  mile  of  the  Canadian,  thus  jamming  the 
divide  close  on  to  the  banks  of  the  latter  river,  and 
rendering  it  extremely  difficult  to  distinguish  it,  and 
the  tributaries  of  Little  River  looking  as  if  they  ran 
into  the  Canadian  until  observed  within  a  very  short 
distance  of  their  banks  and  then  they  disappear 
through  a  ravine  which  a  traveller  would  never  sup- 
pose to  exist  'till  close  on  them. —  Distance  in  a  E. 
S.  E.  Course,  passed  over  15  miles  —  our  days  march 
having  been  18  or  19  miles.  Camped  on  a  Creek 
emptying  into  the  Canadian.  Feel  some  anxiety 
with  regard  to  our  distance  from  Choteau's  trading 
house,  the  men  having  only  enough  dried  buffalo 
meat  for  supper,  and  breakfast  tomorrow  morning, 
and  Choteau's  old  place  is  represented  as  being  100 
miles  from  Edward's  where  we  first  expect  to  pro- 
cure provisions  (mouth  of  Little  River). 

69th  day.  52nd  day's  march.  July  21st  Friday. 
Started  about  six  o'clock  and  travelling  a  few  miles 
S.  E.  a  hill  was  seen  about  8  miles  off,  supposed  by 


232      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Capt  Boone  to  be  the  ground  called  Mason's  Fort, 
where  Col.  Mason  formerly  held  a  council  with  the 
Comanches  and  expected  an  attack.  This  proved  to 
be  the  hill  and  4  miles  from  the  ruins  of  Choteau's 
old  trading  house,  at  which  we  arrived  after  travel- 
ling six  miles.  Resting  there  an  hour,  we  resumed 
our  march  on  the  road  made  by  the  traders  from  this 
point  through  the  cross  timbers,  hoping  to  reach  a 
house  which  the  Shawnees  had  informed  us  to  be  on 
the  road  ten  miles  from  Choteau's,  where  we  could 
get  corn  and  beef,  which  are  very  much  needed.  This 
road  we  found  in  a  horrible  state,  the  soil  consisting 
of  red  clay,  which  washes  very  badly,  producing 
deep  ravines  where  the  wagon  wheels  had  made  their 
tracks.  This  road,  as  bad  as  it  was,  proved  very 
advantageous  to  us,  facilitating  our  movements ;  our 
men  being  unable  to  exert  themselves  with  that  ac- 
tivity and  energy  necessary  to  cut  a  road  through 
timber  where  a  pack  mule  would  be  unable  to  pass. 
Camped  12  miles  from  site  of  Choteau's  old  trading 
house.  No  provisions.  Camped  on  a  small  prairie 
on  the  edge  of  a  creek  running  into  Little  River. 
Distance  18  miles  S.  E. 

70th  day.  53d  day's  march.  July  22nd  Saturday. 
Made  a  late  start  this  morning  about  10  o'clock  in 
consequence  of  our  mules  having  strayed  off.  It  be- 
ing necessary  in  consequence  of  the  indifferent 
grasing  and  their  reduced  condition  to  give  them  a 
greater  range  than  the  length  of  their  Lariettes. 
Marched  17  miles  E.  S.  E.  roads  for  the  first  six 
miles  almost  impassable,  but  after  that  distance,  im- 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  233 

proving,  the  soil  becoming  more  sandy,  and  before 
the  day's  march  was  concluded,  changing  from  the 
red,  to  a  white  sandy  soil.  Country  more  diversi- 
fied in  its  character  than  yesterday  —  little  prairie 
more  frequently  presenting  themselves  and  becom- 
ing somewhat  more  extensive.  Little  or  no  change 
in  vegetation.  Timber  the  same  as  yesterday. 
Camped  on  a  creek  called  White  Rock  Creek,  from 
the  banks  being  composed  of  white  sandstone  Rock, 
on  which  numerous  names  have  been  cut.  Indians, 
Whites  &c.  No  house  yet.  Lost  a  horse  here  — 
strayed  off. 

71st  day.  54th  day's  march.  Jtdy  23d  Sunday. 
Started  at  sunrise  in  hopes  of  reaching  some  Indian 
settlement  where  we  can  get  corn  and  beef.  The 
Country  begins  to  change.  The  timber  changing, 
the  scrub  oaks  occasionally  intermixed  with  the  cot- 
ton wood.  Elm,  and  Ash.  The  prairies  also  becom- 
ing more  extensive,  though  still  presenting  few  in- 
ducements to  Agriculturalists,  there  being  a  great 
scarcity  of  water  and  no  building  or  rail  timber  — 
When  we  had  travelled  about  8  miles  E.  from  Camp 
we  were  met  by  a  party  of  Creek  Indians,  who  in- 
formed us  they  lived  4  miles  south  of  our  road  and 
could  supply  all  our  wants.  The  command  accord- 
ingly turned  off  and  encamped  on  a  beautiful  oak 
grove  near  a  spring  shown  to  us  by  the  Indians. 
Measures  were  immediately  taken  to  supply  our 
wants,  and  the  men  were  soon  engaged  in  preparing 
their  meals  with  an  eagerness  which  plainly  showed 
their  gratification  in  once  more  having  the  means  of 


234      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

gratifying  their  appetites. —  More  merriment  and 
hilarity  in  Camp  to  day  than  I  have  witnessed  for 
some  time  past,  our  Creek  friends  lived  on  the  Ca- 
nadian; had  good  farms,  an  abundance  of  stock  of 
every  description,  and  seemed  to  understand  the  art 
of  living  and  surrounding  themselves  with  com- 
forts.— 

72nd  day.  July  24th  Monday.  Remained  in 
Camp  to  day  to  rest  our  jaded  cattle  and  to  dry  our 
beef.  Indians  visited  us  throughout  the  course  of 
the  day,  bringing  in  marketing  of  various  kinds  — 
Seemed  to  regard  our  presence  as  a  kindly  visitation 
of  providence  in  supplying  them  the  means  of  dis- 
posing of  some  of  their  produce  and  the  means  of 
getting  a  little  money. 

73d  day.  55th  day's  march.  Jidy  25th  Tuesday. 
Eesumed  our  march  about  5^  past  6  —  marching  over 
a  prairie  country  E.  N.  E.  for  about  8  miles  'till  we 
reached  the  Timber  skirting  Little  River.  Then  we 
passed  over  oak  ridges  for  2  miles  'till  we  reached 
the  bottom  of  Little  River.  We  crossed  the  river 
about  1  o'clock  and  should  have  gone  on  some  miles 
further  but  for  an  accident  resulting  in  the  death  of 
a  man  of  ''H"  Company  which  detained  us  'till  too 
late  to  resume  the  march.  While  pulling  the  wagons 
up  the  north  bank  of  the  river  a  Rifle  leaning  up 
against  a  tree  was  knocked  down  and  accidentally 
discharged,  by  a  man  pulling  in  rear  of  Seiter,  the 
Contents  of  the  rifle  passing  into  the  back  of  the 
latter  and  passing  up  killed  him  in  15  minutes.  He 
was  buried  about  200  yards  from  the  crossing  of  the 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  235 

river,  on  the  north  side  of  the  trace.  The  command 
was  moved  off  a  short  distance  on  the  edge  of  a  small 
prairie  running  up  to  the  river  and  Camped.  Tim- 
ber in  the  bottom  of  Little  River  very  large,  and 
various  Bois  d'arc  among  the  rest. 

74th  day.  56th  day's  march  July  26th  Wednes- 
day. Started  at  7  o'clock  travelling  16  miles  E.  N. 
E.  The  roads  in  consequence  of  rains  which  fell 
yesterday  and  during  the  night,  heavy :  mules  labour- 
ing over  them  with  difficulty.  Country  generally 
prairie,  soil  good,  rather  rocky,  Sand  rocks  fre- 
quently showing  themselves  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground. 

75th  day.  57th  day's  march.  July  27th  Thurs- 
day. Started  at  6.  Marched  16  miles  N.  E.  Camped 
on  a  creek  running  east  into  the  Canadian  with  a 
house  on  its  South  bank,  the  first  near  which  we 
have  camped.  About  4  miles  from  this  morning's 
Camp  we  struck  the  road  leading  from  old  Fort 
Holmes  or  Edward's  trading  house  to  Fort  Gibson, 
about  four  miles  from  the  Canadian  where  Fort 
Holmes  is  located.  Country  passed  over  high  rolling 
prairie  intersected  by  numerous  creeks  thickly  tim- 
bered, one  of  which  is  memorable  to  troops  stationed 
at  Fort  Gibson,  from  the  fact  that  a  Sick  Camp  was 
established  there  and  many  soldiers  were  buried.  A 
large  tree  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  graves  has  a 
finger  pointing  to  the  grave  and  written  under  it 
'^ Soldiers  grave"  "We  sent  a  soldier  to  Edward's 
when  we  got  into  the  road  and  on  his  return  news 
was  received  from  Lieut  Anderson  who  had  in  conse- 


236      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

quence  of  hugging  the  divide  on  the  Canadian  too 
closely,  lost  himself  and  company  amongst  the  hills 
of  the  Blue  River  and  getting  out  of  provisions  left 
his  wagon  and  five  men  with  Lieut  Johnston  and 
proceeded  in  search  of  provisions.  Fort  Holmes  be- 
ing the  first  place  where  he  found  them  —  45  miles 
from  his  wagon. 

76th  day.  58th  day's  march.  July  28.  Friday. 
Marched  to  day  16  miles,  Course  E.  N.  E.  having 
made  an  early  start. —  Country  very  broken  and 
rough,  gravelly  hills  which  hurt  our  unshod  horses 
very  much.  Creeks  quite  numerous,  heavily  tim- 
bered—  and  ridges  of  the  north  fork  of  the  Cana- 
dian running  down  close  to  the  road  covered  with 
timber.  Camped  on  a  creek  emptying  into  the  Cana- 
dian 4  or  5  miles  from  Apothleohole  's  town. 

77th  day.  58th  days  march.  Jidy  29th  Saturday. 
Marched  16  miles.  Course  N.  E.  Country,  rough 
prairie  'till  within  5  miles  of  the  North  Pork.  Halt- 
ed at  the  North  Fork  about  an  hour,  fed  our  horses 
and  resuming  our  march  crossed  the  river  at  the 
Falls,  and  proceeded  5  miles  further.  Camping  on 
a  prairie  stream  near  the  timber  of  the  north  Fork. 

78th  day.  59th  day's  march.  July  30th  Sunday. 
Started  at  6.  Marched  20  miles.  N.  N.  E.  the 
weather  being  very  favourable  for  travelling  —  a 
constant  drizzling  rain  falling  throughout  the  day 
and  cooling  the  atmosphere. —  Country  passed  over 
prairie,  with  exception  of  belts  of  timber  along  the 
various  creeks  intersecting  our  road.  Saw  the  high 
hills  around  Gibson  from  an  eminence  on  the  road. 


CAPTAIN  BOONE'S  JOURNAL  237 

Camped  on  a  creek  12  miles  from  Fort  Gibson  at  the 
termination  of  a  range  of  tabular  ridges  running 
from  the  Arkansas  river. 

79th  day.  60th  days  march,  July  31st  Monday. 
Started  at  5  o'clock  this  morning,  marched  N.  N.  E. 
The  timber  of  the  Arkansas  soon  presented  itself  to 
our  view,  together  with  the  most  elevated  of  the 
hills  about  Fort  Gibson.  On  our  left  were  a  singular 
range  of  ridges,  called  by  Capt.  Boone  the  Devils' 
Card  Table,  consisting  of  three  ridges  very  steep  in 
their  ascent  flat  on  the  top  and  terminated  to  the 
south  by  a  conical  hill  which,  in  the  distance  looks 
like  a  tow^er.  These  hills  are  visible  from  prospect 
hill  at  Fort  Gibson.  Reached  the  Arkansas  about  10 
oClock,  and  by  one  o'clock  our  command  was  formed 
on  the  parade  ground  at  Fort  Gibson. — 
To  Nathan  Boone 

Genl.  Z  Taylor  Capt  Capt  Comdg 

Comd'g  2nd  Mil'y  Dep't       Detachment  Dragoons 


NOTES    AND    REFERENCES 


239 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES 

CHAPTER  I 

1  In  the  prefparation  of  this  chapter  Miss  Ruth  Gallaher's  article 
on  The  Military-Indian  Frontier,  1830-1835,  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of 
History  and  Politics,  July,  1917,  has  been  of  especial  value. 

2  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  643 ;  Statis- 
tical Atlas  of  the  United  States,  1900,  p.  25. 

3  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  592. 

4  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  593. 

5  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  727. 

«  This  discussion  is  found  in  the  American  State  Papers,  Military 
Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  284-292;  it  consists  of  reports  by  Secretary  of 
War  John  H.  Eaton,  Major  General  Alexander  Macomb,  Adjutant 
General  R.  Jones,  and  Major  General  E.  P.  Gaines. 

7  Report  of  Secretary  of  War  Lewis  Cass  in  the  American  State 
Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  709. 

8  Surgeon  General  Jos.  Lovell's  report  in  the  American  State  Pa- 
pers, Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  85,  86. 

9  Quoted  from  a  letter  by  Lieutenant  Joseph  S.  Grallagher  in  the 
American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  291,  292. 

10  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  709,  718. 

11  From  the  report  of  Surgeon  General  Jos.  Lovell,  dated  October 
20,  1831. 

12  From  the  comparative  statement  of  C.  Irvine,  Commissary  Gen- 
eral of  Purchases,  dated  October  11,  1830. 

13  Report  of  Brevet  Colonel  George  Bomford,  dated  November  30, 
1830. 

17  241 


242      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

14  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  626, 
627,  629. 

15  Wisconsin  Historical  Collections,  Vol.  V,  p.  254. 

16  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  p.  281. 

17  There  are  two  first-hand  reports  of  this  expedition:  that  of 
Major  Bennet  Riley,  commander  of  the  detachment,  is  found  in  the 
American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  IV,  pp.  277-280;  that 
of  Lieutenant  Philip  St.  George  Cooke  is  found  in  his  Scenes  and 
Adventures  in  the  Army,  pp.  40-93. 

18  These  episodes  are  described  in  the  writer's  Henry  Dodge,  Chap- 
ters IV,  V. 

CHAPTER  II 

19  Report  of  Secretary  of  War  Lewis  Cass,  dated  November  25, 
1832,  and  printed  in  the  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs, 
Vol.  V,  pp.  18-25. 

20  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  Vol.  IV,  p.  652. 

21  American  State  Papers,  Military  A  fairs.  Vol.  V,  p.  280. 

22  Hildreth  's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocTcy  Mountains,  pp.  36, 
37.  This  volume  of  288  pages  was  published  in  1836  and  consists  of 
a  series  of  letters  by  James  Hildreth,  the  author.  Besides  the  history 
of  several  marches  of  this  regiment  there  are  interesting  sketches  of 
Indian  life  and  of  scenery. 

23  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Boclcy  Mountains,  pp. 
15,  30. 

"Captain  E.  V.  Sumner's  corps  of  U.  S.  Dragoons,  or  rangers 
destined  for  the  Indian  service,  arrived  at  Buffalo,  on  the  3d  inst. 
[August  1833]  and  left  next  day  for  their  place  of  destination.  The 
Buffalo  Journal  says,  they  were  the  finest  looking  raw  recruits  we  ever 
saw;  all  New  Yorkers,  selected  by  eapt.  S.  himself  from  the  northern 
and  western  counties  of  the  state,  within  the  age  of  25  years,  and  as 
nearly  as  possible  5  feet  8  inches  in  height.  All  possessing  a  good 
English  education  and  of  strictly  correct  habits." — Niles'  Register, 
Vol.  XLIV,  p.  422. 

24 Cooke's  Scenes  and  Adventures  in  the  Army,  pp.  197-204. 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  243 

25  The  facts  and  the  descriptive  features  of  these  river  journeys 
are  condensed  from  Charles  Joseph  Latrobe's  The  Bambler  in  North 
America,  Vol.  II,  pp.  315-327.  The  author  of  this  work,  published  in 
1835,  was  an  Englishman.  In  1833  he  visited  Chicago  and  crossed 
Illinois  to  St.  Louis.  From  there  he  went  overland  to  Peoria,  Galena, 
and  Prairie  du  Chien.  The  Mississippi  was  ascended  to  St.  Anthony, 
from  which  point  he  floated  down  the  river  to  New  Orleans.  Latrobe 
was  a  keen  observer  and  an  interesting  narrator. 

26  Charles  Fenno  Hoffman  who  visited  this  post  three  months  later 
(February,  1834)  found  there  a  garrison  of  five  companies  commanded 
by  Colonel  Zachary  Taylor  and  quartered  in  handsome  barracks  built 
by  the  soldiers  themselves.  Shooting  and  hunting  of  all  kinds  fur- 
nished amusement  for  the  troops  as  well  as  for  the  population  of 
voyageurs  and  hunters,  half  Indian  and  half  French.  Grouse,  snipe, 
and  ducks  abounded.  "Elk,  bear,  and  wolves  are  the  game  of  those 
who  are  more  ambitious  in  their  sport,  and  choose  to  go  farther  to 
seek  it.  The  meat  of  the  first  I  have  not  yet  tasted,  but  I  made  a 
capital  dinner  yesternoon  from  the  sirloin  of  the  second  at  the  com- 
mandant 's  quarters.  Bruin  was  served  up  in  handsome  style,  and 
some  old  wine  from  Colonel  T. 's  hospitable  cellar  relished  in  this 
latitude." — Hoffman's  A  Winter  in  the  West,  Vol.  II,  pp.  9-24. 

27  < '  The  position  of  this  little  Fort  is  remarkable,  occupying  the 
rocky  extremity  of  an  island  three  miles  long,  and  of  half  that  width. 
It  forms  a  square,  with  blockhouses  at  the  angles,  two  of  which,  im- 
pending over  the  limestone  precipice,  are  picturesque  objects.  On  the 
western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  extending  to  the  southward,  the  Sauks 
and  Foxes  have  their  Eeservation. " — Latrobe's  The  Bambler  in 
North  America,  Vol.  II,  p.  325. 

28  Flagg's  The  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  pp.  149,  150.  See  also  Thwaites's 
Early  Western  Travels,  Vol.  XXI,  p.  122;  and  Ferrall's  A  BamUe  of 
Six  Thousand  Miles  Through  the  United  States  of  America,  pp.  131, 
132. 

29  Flagg's  The  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  p.  149.  An  excellent  description 
of  the  barracks  and  of  the  dragoons  as  they  appeared  in  March,  1834, 
is  given  in  Hoffman's  A  Winter  in  the  West,  Vol.  II,  pp.  86-97. 

^^  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  V,  p.  39;  the 
quotation  in  the  text  is  from  Flagg's  The  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  p.  150. 


244     MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

31  Hildreth  'a  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp. 
37,  38. 

82  Hildreth  'a  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocTcy  Mountains,  pp. 
45-47. 

S3  Dodge 's  Military  Order  Booh.  This  is  a  manuscript  document 
in  Colonel  Dodge's  own  handwriting,  containing  his  military  orders 
and  correspondence  from  August,  1832,  to  March,  1836.  The  orders 
and  letters  issued  from  widely  separated  points  in  the  Mississippi 
Valley,  are  all  written  in  ink  and  are  fairly  legible,  despite  the  nearly 
eighty  years  that  have  passed  since  their  composition.  The  document 
is  in  the  possession  of  the  Historical  Department  at  Des  Moines,  Iowa, 
and  all  references  to  it  in  this  volume  are  to  the  original  and  un- 
published source. 

This  letter  in  Dodge's  Military  Order  Boole  is  to  Col.  E.  Jones, 
Adjutant  General,  dated  Jefferson  Barracks,  August  28,  1833. 

34  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp.  44, 
45,  49,  50. 

ssLatrobe's  The  Bamhler  in  North  America,  Vol.  II,  pp.  318,  319. 

36  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp. 
42,  43. 

37  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp. 
51,  52. 

CHAPTER  III 

38  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp. 
59,  60. 

"In  what  originated  this  march?  Was  any  important  public  end 
to  be  attained?  Was  it  to  repel  an  invading  foe?  Was  it  to  make  a 
sudden  and  important  attack  upon  a  foreign  enemy?  Did  the  good 
of  the  service  in  any  way  call  for  it?  To  these  questions  there  is  but 
one  answer  —  No !  There  has  been  assigned,  as  the  only  and  great 
motive,  that  the  corps  having  "been  raised  for  the  defense  of  the  fron- 
tier, would  be  disbanded  if  it  remained  inactive  so  far  in  the  interior 
as  Jefferson  Barracks." — Cooke's  Scenes  and  Adventures  in  the 
Army,  p.  220. 

' '  Before  they  were  all  clothed, —  and  some  without  instruction, — 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  245 

wretchedly  armed,  they  were  put  upon  horses,  and  started  on  a  five- 
hundred-mile  march  in  snow.  Arrived  in  the  last  days  of  December, 
they  found  no  quarters,  stables,  or  forage;  this  last  was  not  attain- 
able. The  mercury  sank  to  — 10°." — Quoted  from  Cooke's  Our  Cav- 
alry in  the  United  Service,  July,  1879,  Vol.  I,  pp.  329-346. 

39  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Body  Moitntains,  pp.  62, 
63.  Incidents  and  descriptions  of  the  march  are  taken  largely  from 
this  volume. 

40  This  post,  which  was  erected  in  1824,  was  located  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Neosho  River  near  its  junction  with  the  Arkansas  River 
in  what  is  now  Muskogee  County,  Oklahoma.  In  November,  1834,  its 
garrison  consisted  of  nine  companies  of  about  four  hundred  men. 
The  fort  was  abandoned  in  1857. —  American  State  Papers,  Military 
A  fairs,  Vol.  V,  p.  370;  Thwaites's  Early  Western  Travels,  Vol.  XX, 
p.  105. 

41  Henry  Dodge's  letter  to  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones,  dated 
February  2,  1833,  in  Dodge's  Military  Order  Book.  See  also 
Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocJcy  Mountains,  pp.  76,  77, 
83,  84. 

42  Dodge  to  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones,  February  15,  1834,  in 
Dodge's  Military  Order  Book. 

43  Dodge  to  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones,  February  2,  1834,  in 
Dodge's  Military  Order  BooJc. 

44  The  descriptive  material  concerning  the  life  and  the  amusements 
of  the  dragoons  at  Camp  Jackson  during  the  winter  of  1833-1834  is 
found  in  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  pp. 
•85-88. 

45  Letter  from  Camp  Jackson,  dated  April  18,  1834,  to  George  W. 
Jones,  found  in  the  Historical  Department  at  Des  Moines,  Iowa. 

46  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocky  Mountains,  p.  96. 

47  Dodge  to  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones,  March  31,  1834,  in 
Dodge's  Military  Order  Book;  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the 
Bocky  Mountains,  pp.  98-101. 

48  Dodge  to  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones,  February  15,  1834,  in 
Dodge's  Military  Order  Book. 


246      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

49Hildretb's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  Bocl-y  Mountains,  pp. 
104-106. 

50  Hildreth 's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocTcy  Mountains,  p.  106; 
letter  by  Colonel  Dodge  from  Camp  Jackson  to  General  Henry 
Leavenworth,  dated  May  9,  1834,  and  found  in  Dodge's  Military 
Order  Booh;  Gregg's  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,  Vol.  I,  pp.  30,  31. 

51  This  journal,  covering  the  time  between  May  11  and  June  2, 
1834,  was  kept  by  a  dragoon  of  Company  I.  The  textual  account  of 
this  march  is  based  wholly  upon  this  journal,  which  has  been  edited 
by  the  author  and  may  be  found  in  The  lotva  Journal  of  History  and 
Politics,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  335-341. 

52  The  entry  for  May  23rd  reads:  "After  a  march  of  27  miles 
made  Camp  Clynian.  The  first  part  of  this  days  march  was  over  a 
barren  soil  with  good  water,  in  the  afternoon  the  land  was  good  with 
some  of  the  best  springs  I  ever  saw.  Our  men  &  horses  are  impro\dng 
&  our  situation  is  as  pleasant  as  can  be  expected  while  on  a  march. 
Our  officers  are  J.  B.  Brown [e],  Capt.  A.  G.  Edwards  Lieut.  L.  A. 
Styles  1  B.  F.  Price  2  J.  C.  Parrott  3  L.  A.  Thompson  4  sergents 
Bartlett  —  Terrill  Easman  &  rice  Corporals". 

ssHildreth's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocTcy  Mountains,  pp. 
119-121. 

54Catlin's  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  II,  pp.  454-457  (Haz- 
ard's Edition  of  1857).  Mr.  Catlin  was  skeptical  as  to  the  ultimate 
success  of  this  prospective  tour.  In  the  first  place,  the  difficulty  of 
organizing  and  equipping  forced  the  regiment  to  start  too  late  by  two 
months.  And  secondly,  the  presence  of  such  a  large  force  would 
cause  the  Indians  with  their  families  to  flee  to  their  hiding-places 
among  barren  wastes  where  the  troops  could  not  follow.  From  those 
points  the  Indians  might  annoy  the  dragoons  by  striking  at  their 
hunting  parties  and  cutting  off  their  supplies. 

CHAPTER  IV 

55  This  chapter  was  constructed  from  the  following  sources: 
(a).     American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  V,  pp.  373- 
382.     This  is  the  journal  kept  by  Lieutenant  T.  B.  Wheeloek  during 
the   entire    march.      Although    it   is   sketchy   in    form    it    presents    a 
fascinating  narrative  as  well  as  an  official  and  accurate  account. 


NOTES  AND  KEFERENCES  247 

(b).  Ca.tlin's  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  II,  pp.  452-528, 
Hazard's  edition  of  1857.  The  same  material  is  also  found  in  the 
Smithsonian  Report  for  1885,  Part  II.  Mr.  Catlin  was  at  this  time 
thirty-seven  years  of  age,  and  enjoyed  the  confidence  of  Colonel 
Dodge  of  whom  he  painted  a  portrait.  Dodge  declared  of  Catlin 's 
portraits  of  Indians  that  ' '  The  Wkenesses  are  good,  very  easily  to 
be  recognized,  and  the  costumes  faithfully  represented."  Vivid  de- 
scriptions of  the  Indians  and  narratives  of  buffalo  hunts,  marches, 
scenery,  and  Indian  councils  from  a  keen  observer,  a  forceful  writer, 
and  an  artist  give  both  interest  and  value  to  this  source. 

(c).     Dodge's  Military  Order  Boole. 

(d).     Hildreth's  Dragoon  Campaigns  to  the  BocTcy  Mountains. 

(e).  Manuscript  letters  from  Henry  Dodge  in  the  Historical  De- 
partment at  Des  Moines. 

(f).  A  Journal  of  Marches  iy  the  First  United  States  Dragoons, 
1834-1835.  This  document  describes  four  marches  by  the  First  United 
States  Dragoons  which  extended  over  the  area  of  five  States  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  The  author  of  the  Journal  was  a  member  of 
Company  I  commanded  by  Captain  Jesse  B.  Browne.  The  Journal  is 
edited  by  Louis  Pelzer  and  printed  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History 
and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  331-378. 

56  Eeport  of  iSecretary  of  War  Lewis  Cass  in  American  State  Pa- 
pers, Military  Affairs,  Vol.  V,  pp.   169-172. 

57  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  V,  p.  373. 

58  Smithsonian  Report,  1885,  Part  II,  p.  479, 

59  A  Journal  of  Marches  "by  the  First  United  States  Dragoons  in 
The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  p.  344. 

60  American  State  Papers,  Military  Affairs,  Vol.  V,  p.  376. 

61  "Every  morning  early  as  the  day  dawned  hundred [s]  of 
Squaws  might  be  seen  ladened  with  corn  Pumpions  &  water-mellons  & 
Buffalo  meat  strolling  through  our  camp  more  anxious  to  trade  than 
our  Yankee  Pedlers  —  whatever  ornaments  or  decorations  we  could 
offer  whether  Paints,  Buttons,  Eibbands  or  any  thing  else  to  make  a 
show  they  quickly  bartered.  Horses  of  the  finest  form  &  appearance 
were  willingly  exchanged  for  a  single  blanket". —  A  Journal  of 
Marches  hy  the  First  United  States  Dragoons  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of 
History  and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  p.  358. 


248      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

62CatIin's  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  II,  p.  505. 

"The  little  boy  of  whom  I  have  spoken,"  wrote  Catlin,  "was 
brought  in,  the  whole  distance  to  Port  Gibson,  in  the  arms  of  the 
dragoons,  who  took  turns  in  carrying  him;  and  after  the  command 
arrived  there,  he  was  transmitted  to  the  Eed  Eiver,  by  an  officer,  who 
had  the  enviable  satisfaction  of  delivering  him  into  the  arms  of  his 
disconsolate  and  half-distracted  mother." 

63  A  Journal  of  Marches  by  the  First  United  States  Dragoons  in 
The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  358,  359. 

6*  ' '  Marched  at  half -past  eight  o  'clock ' ',  writes  Lieutenant  Wheel- 
ock  on  July  31,  1834.  "Men  in  fine  spirits;  abundance  of  buffalo 
meat;  course  northeast;  distance  10  miles;  encamped  on  a  branch  of 
the  Canadian;  three  buffaloes  killed  this  morning;  no  news  yet  from 
express;  anxiously  looked  for;  face  of  country  rolling  prairie;  fre- 
quent deep  gullies;  one  of  the  Kiowas  killed  three  buffaloes  with 
three  arrows. ' ' 

65  Catlin 's  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  II,  p.  515. 

66  A  Journal  of  Marches  by  the  First  United  States  Dragoons  in 
The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  p.  359. 

67  American  State  Papers,  Military  A  fairs.  Vol.  V,  p.  382. 

68  Dodge's  Military  Order  Boole,  p.  90. 

69  Letter  from  Colonel  Dodge,  dated  October  1,  1834,  and  found  in 
the  Historical  Department  at  Des  Moines. 

70  A  report  of  this  expedition  was  sent  to  the  Adjutant  General, 
and  a  copy  thereof,  dated  August  18,  1834,  is  found  in  Dodge's  Mili- 
tary Order  BooTc,  pp.  85-89. 

71  "Colonel  Dodge,  who  led  the  expedition,"  said  Lewis  Cass, 
' '  and  his  whole  command  appear  to  have  performed  their  duties  in 
the  most  satisfactory  manner,  and  they  encountered  with  firmness  the 
privations  incident  to  the  harassing  service  upon  which  they  were 
ordered." — American  State  Papers,  Military  A  fairs,  Vol.  V,  p.  358. 

72  Catlin 's  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  II,  p.  525. 

CHAPTER  V 

73  See  the  article  entitled  Fort  Des  Moines   (No.  1),  Iowa  pre- 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  249 

pared  by  the  War  Department  and  published  in  the  An7ials  of  Iowa 
(Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  351-363.  In  the  history  of  Iowa  there 
have  been  three  posts  which  have  borne  the  name  ' '  Fort  Des  Moines ' '. 
To  keep  them  distinct  they  are  referred  to  as  Fort  Des  Moines  (No. 
1),  Fort  Des  Moines  (No.  2),  and  Fort  Des  Moines  (No.  3).  For 
brief  historical  accounts  of  these  three  posts  see  Van  der  Zee's  Forts 
in  the  Iowa  Country  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics, 
Vol.  XII,  pp.   178-182,  192-197,  202-204. 

' '  Three  companies  under  Lieut.  Col.  Kearny  marched  from  this 
place  for  the  Demoin  on  the  Mississippi  on  the  3d  of  this  Instant 
where  they  are  to  be  Wintered  in  the  Sac  Country". —  Letter  from 
Colonel  Dodge  to  Major  General  Gaines  dated  Fort  Gibson,  Septem- 
ber 7,  1834,  and  found  in  Dodge's  Military  Order  Book. 

74  This  journal  is  printed  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and 
Politics,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  361-364. 

''^American  State  Papers,  Public  Lands,  Vol.  Ill,  p.  345;  Annals 
of  loiva  (First  Series),  Vol.  V,  p.  892,  Vol.  VI,  p.  180,  Vol.  VII,  pp. 
230,  231. 

■!Q  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  p.  353. 

77  Whiteomb  's  Eeminiscences  of  Gen.  James  C.  Parrott  in  the 
Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  370,  371. 

78  This  story  is  related  in  Hawkins  Taylor 's  General  Jesse  B. 
Brown[e]  in  the  Annals  of  Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  X,  pp.  196-206. 

79  Quoted  from  Lea's  Early  Explorations  in  Iowa  in  the  Iowa 
Historical  Record,  Vol.  VI,  No.  4,  p.  543. 

so  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  353,  354. 

ST- Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  p.  355. 

Lieutenant  Lea's  story  of  his  journey  to  Fort  Gibson  and  his 
return  to  Fort  Des  Moines  may  be  found  in  the  Iowa  Historical  Rec- 
ord, Vol.  VI,  No.  4,  pp.  543-545. 

82  These  instructions  are  printed  in  the  Annals  of  loiva  (Third 
Series),  Vol.  Ill,  p.  355. 

83  This  journal  is  edited  and  published  in  The  loiva  Journal  of 
History  and  Politics,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  364-378. 


250      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

84  These  descriptions  of  scenery  are  based  upon  the  following 
sources:  Lea's  Notes  on  Wisconsin  Territory;  Lea's  Early  Explora- 
tions in  Iowa  in  the  Iowa  Historical  Eecord,  Vol.  VI,  pp.  535-553 ; 
the  dragoon  journal  in  The  Iowa  Jouriial  of  History  and  Politics, 
Vol.  VII,  pp.  364-378;  and  personal  knowledge  and  observations. 

85  The  detailed  account  in  the  text  is  based  almost  wholly  upon 
this  journal  noted  in  footnote  83. 

86  Iowa  Historical  Eecord,  Vol.  VI,  p.  549.  Des  Moines,  the  cap- 
ital of  Iowa,  by  the  census  of  1910  had  a  population  of  86,368. 

87  The  report  of  Colonel  Kearny  describing  this  site  is  printed  in 
the  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  356,  357. 

88  Iowa  Historical  Eecord,  Vol.  VI,  p.  550. 

&^  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  p.  370;  Annals  of 
Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  X,  pp.  196-206. 

90  Lea's  Notes  on  Wisconsin  Territory,  pp.  22,  23,  35. 

"The  rapids  are  about  fourteen  miles  long,  and  at  the  top  of  them 
is  a  military  post  or  cantonment,  called  Fort  des  Moines.  This  site 
appears  to  me  to  have  been  chosen  with  singularly  bad  judgment;  it 
is  low,  unhealthy,  and  quite  unimportant  in  a  military  point  of  view; 
moreover,  if  it  had  been  placed  at  the  lower,  instead  of  the  upper  end 
of  the  rapids,  an  immense  and  useless  expense  would  have  been 
spared  to  the  government,  inasmuch  as  the  freightage  of  every 
article  conveyed  thither  is  now  doubled.  The  freight  on  board  the 
steamer,  from  which  I  made  these  observations,  was  twenty-five  cents 
per  hundred  weight  from  St.  Louis  to  Keokuk,  being  one  hundred  and 
seventy  miles,  and  from  St.  Louis  to  the  fort,  being  only  fourteen 
miles  farther,  it  was  fifty  cents." — Murray's  Travels  i7i  North 
America,  Vol.  II,  p.  98. 

91  Quoted  from  Murray's  Travels  in  North  America,  Vol.  II,  pp. 
98,  99. 

92  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  370-373. 

93  Annals  of  loica  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  357-359. 
94Flagg's  The  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  p.  108. 

95  Flagg's  The  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  pp.  109,  110. 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  251 

se  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  358,  375. 

!"■  A  more  detailed  account  of  the  evacuation  of  this  post  is  the 
War  Department's  article  on  Fort  Des  Moines  (No.  1),  Iowa  in  the 
Annals  of  loiva  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  351-363. 

^s  Annals  of  Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  X,  p.  147. 
CHAPTEE  VI 

99  This  chapter  is  based  upon  the  material  found  in  American 
State  Papers,  Military  Afairs,  Vol.  VI,  pp.  130-146.  This  material 
consists  of  the  following  documents: — 

(a).  The  journal  of  the  march  of  this  detachment  of  the  dra- 
goons as  written  by  Lieutenant  G.  P.  Kingsbury,  the  journalist  of 
the  expedition. 

(b).     A  map  showing  the  route  of  the  dragoons  in  this  expedition. 

(c).  Letter  from  Colonel  Dodge  to  Eoger  Jones,  Adjutant  Gen- 
eral of  the  United  States  Army,  dated  October,  1835,  from  Fort 
Leavenworth. 

(d).  Letter  of  Edmund  P.  Gaines  (of  the  Western  Department 
of  the  Army)  to  Roger  Jones,  Adjutant  General  of  the  United  States 
Army,  dated  November  12,  1835. 

100  The  present  counties  of  Richardson,  Nemaha,  Johnson,  and 
Otoe. 

101  "The  Otto  village",  describes  Lieutenant  Kingsbury,  "is  sit- 
uated on  a  high  prairie  ridge,  about  two  miles  from  the  river,  and 
overlooks  the  surrounding  country  for  many  miles.  In  front  lay  the 
green  level  valley  of  the  Platte.  .  .  .  The  village  was  very  neat 
in  its  appearance.  The  lodges  were  built  of  wood,  thatched  with 
prairie  grass,  and  covered  with  dirt.  They  were  of  a  circular  form, 
with  a  pointed  roof  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  high  to  the  break  of  the 
roof,  and  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high  in  the  centre.  They 
build  their  fires  in  the  middle  of  the  lodge,  leaving  an  opening  in  the 
roof  for  the  smoke  to  escape." 

102  The  route  of  this  march  would  seem  to  correspond  approx- 
imately with  the  present  line  of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
between  the  cities  of  Denver  and  Pueblo  in  the  State  of  Colorado. 

103  "The  command  at  this  stage  of  the  march",  writes  Lieuten- 


252      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

ant  Kingsbury  on  August  12th,  "was  in  a  most  perfect  state  of 
health  —  not  a  man  upon  the  sick  report;  the  horses  in  fine  order, 
nearly  as  good  as  when  they  left  Fort  Leavenworth.  The  Colonel  had 
seen  all  the  Indians  he  expected  to  see,  and  had  established  friendly 
relations  with  them  all;  had  marched  one  thousand  miles  over  a  beau- 
tiful and  interesting  country,  and  we  started  for  home  with  that 
joyous  and  self-satisfied  feeling  which  resulted  from  a  consciousness 
of  having  accomplished  the  full  object  of  the  expedition." 

104  "The  weather  being  wet  and  foggy,"  runs  the  journal  of 
August  20th,  "we  remained  encamped;  a  party  of  men  were  sent  out 
hunting,  who  killed  two  buffalo  buUs;  no  buffalo  cows  were  seen." 

105  This  was  a  dragoon  of  Company  A  who  died  on  August  11, 
1835.  Colonel  Dodge  directed  him  to  be  buried  on  a  high  prairie 
ridge  and  a  stone  to  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  grave  upon  which 
were  to  be  engraved  his  name  and  regiment. 

CHAPTER  VII 

106  Abel's  The  History  of  Events  Eesulting  in  Indian  Consolida- 
tion in  the  Annual  Report  of  the  American  Historical  Association, 
1906,  Vol.  I,  pp.  342,  343 ;  Paxson  's  The  Last  American  Frontier,  pp. 
21-23. 

107  American  State  Papers,  Military  Afairs,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  785,  786. 

108  American  State  Papers,  Military  Afairs,  Vol.  VII,  maps  oppo- 
site page  780. 

109  American  State  Papers,  Military  Afairs,  Vol.  VII,  p.  598. 

110  This  report  by  Secretary  of  War  J.  R.  Poinsett  is  accompanied 
by  documents  from  the  engineer  department,  the  quartermaster  gen- 
eral, and  the  commissioner  of  Indian  affairs,  and  may  be  found  in 
Senate  Documents,  2nd  Session,  25th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  65. 

111  Letter  dated  Fort  Leavenworth,  June  20,  1837,  and  printed  in 
the  American  State  Papers,  Military  Afairs,  Vol.  VII,  pp.  960,  961. 

112  Executive  Documents,  3rd  Session,  25th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
2,  table  D,  p.  120. 

113  Executive  Documents,  3rd  Session,  25th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
2,  pp.  97,  98. 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  253 

114  Van  der  Zee's  Episodes  in  the  Early  History  of  the  Western 
Iowa  Country  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  XI, 
pp.  345,  346;  Chittenden  and  Richardson's  Father  De  Smet's  Life 
and  Travels  among  the  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  I,  pp.  158,  168. 

115  Eeport  of  Major  General  Alexander  Macomb  to  the  Secretary 
of  War,  dated  November  29,  1838,  and  printed  in  Executive  Docu- 
ments, 3rd  Session,  25th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  2,  pp.  114-119. 

116  Eeport  of  Acting  Quartermaster  General  Henry  Stanton  in 
Executive  Documents,  3rd  Session,  25th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  2,  p. 
123. 

117  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  Vol.  V,  p.  359. 

118  Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  IX,  No.  1,  p.  10,  July  4,  1839. 

119  Repvj^rt  of  Quartermaster  General  Thomas  S.  Jesup  dated  No- 
vember 29,\l839,  and  printed  in  Executive  Documents,  1st  Session, 
26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  2,  pp.  112-115, 

120  E'^  .cutive  Documents,  1st  Session,  26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doe. 
2,  pp.  56,  72,  73,  113,  114. 

121  Executive  Documents,  1st  Session,  26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
2,  p.  56;  Chittenden  and  Richardson's  Father  De  Smet's  Life  and 
Travels  among  the  North  American  Indians,  Vol.  I,  p.  175. 

122  This  account  is  based  upon  the  report  of  a  member  of  this 
expedition  as  printed  in  the  Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  IX,  No. 
18,  pp.  285,  286,  October  31,  1839. 

123  Report  of  Indian  Agent  Jos.  V.  Hamilton,  dated  October  18, 
1839,  and  of  Moses  Merrill  (government  teacher),  dated  September 
12,  1839,  printed  in  Executive  Documents,  1st  -Session,  26th  Congress, 
Vol.  I,  Doc.  2,  pp.  503,  504,  522 ;  see  also  the  Indian  census  returns  in 
Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  2,  p. 
319. 

i2i  statistical  Atlas  (Twelfth  Census  of  the  United  States,  1900), 
Plate  No.  7. 

125  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
2,  pp.  46,  47. 

126  From  an  account  signed  by  '  *  Forester ' '  and  printed  in  the 
Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  XI,  No.  16,  p.  249,  October  15,  1840. 


\ 

I 

254      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

^27  Niles'  Register,  Vol.  VII  (or  Vol.  LVII  — Fifth  series),  p. 
416,  February  22,  1840.  These  two  sites  were  in  the  present  county 
of  Sequoyah  in  the  State  of  Oklahoma. 

128  Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  XI,  No.  16,  p.  249,  October  15, 
1840. 

129  United  States  Statutes  at  Large,  Vol.  V,  p.  404. 

130  Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  IX,  No.  5,  p.  80,  August  1, 
1839. 

131  Army  and  Navy  Chronicle,  Vol.  X,  No.  16,  April  16,  1840. 

132  Executive  Documents,  2ncl  Session,  26th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
2,  pp.  317,  321. 

CHAPTER  VIII 

133  In  the  preparation  of  this  chapter  Van  der  Zee's  Forts  in  the 
Iowa  Country  in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  XII, 
pp.  163-204,  has  been  found  of  special  help  and  value. 

i34Kappler's  Indian  Affairs,  Laics  and  Treaties,  Vol.  II,  pp.  305- 
310,  345-348,  498-500.  See  also  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol, 
IV,  pp.  448,  449. 

-i^^z  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  IV,  pp.  449,  451;  and 
Seriate  Documents,  3rd  Session,  27th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1,  p.  231. 
The  site  of  the  post  was  on  the  present  location  of  the  village  of 
Fort  Atkinson  in  Winneshiek  County,  Iowa.  It  was  abandoned  in 
1849. 

138  Eeports  of  Governor  John  Chambers  and  Sub-Agent  David 
Lowry  for  the  year  1842  in  Senate  Documents,  3rd  Session,  27th  Con- 
gress, Vol.  I,  Doc.  1,  pp.  417,  423. 

T-ST  Annals  of  Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  pp.  411,  414,  535. 

138  Ajinals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  IV,  pp.  291,  293,  451. 
The  Sac  and  Fox  Agency  was  located  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Des 
Moines  River  in  the  present  county  of  Wapello,  Iowa. 

139  Report  of  Agent  John  Beach,  dated  September  1,  1842,  and 
printed  in  Senate  Documents,  3rd  Session,  27th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc. 
1,  pp.  424-427. 


NOTES  AND  EEFERENCES  255 

140  mies '  Begister,  Vol.  LXI,  p.  101,  October  16,  1841 ;  Annals  of 
Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  VIII,  p.  103. 

141  A  detailed  account  of  this  treaty  may  be  found  in  Parisb's 
John  Chambers,  Chapter  XIV.  A  picturesque  account  is  also  given 
in  the  loiva  Territorial  Gazette  and  Advertiser  (Burlington),  Vol.  VI, 
No.  14,  October  15,  1842.  This  account  is  reprinted  in  The  Iowa 
Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  X,  pp.  261-265. 

142  This  description  of  life  at  the  agency  is  gleaned  from  the 
Annals  of  Iowa  (First  Series),  Vol.  XII,  pp.  94-97;  and  the  Annals 
of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  TV,  pp.  291,  292. 

143  Senate  Documents,  3rd  Session,  27th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1, 
p.  199,  Table  C. 

'i^i*^  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third  Series),  Vol.  Ill,  p.  471.  A  map  in 
Vol.  XI  of  Explorations  and  Surveys  for  a  Railroad  Boute  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  places  "Old  Ft.  Croghan"  some  distance  above  the 
present  Council  Bluffs  and  a  little  below  the  mouth  of  the  Boyer 
Eiver.     The  encampment  was  abandoned  in  September,  1843. 

145  Audubon  and  his  Journals,  edited  by  his  daughter  Maria  E. 
Audubon  and  Elliott  Coues,  Vol.  I,  pp.  477-482. 

146  Audubon  and  his  Journals,  Vol.  I,  pp.  478-482. 

147  A  detailed  account  of  how  the  ' '  Omega 's ' '  crew  prevented  the 
liquor  from  being  discovered  by  the  dragoon  officers  is  related  in 
Chittenden's  The  History  of  the  American  Fur  Trade  of  the  Far 
West,  Vol.  II,  pp.  679-683. 

148  Most  of  the  details  concerning  this  fort  are  drawn  from  the 
article  entitled  Fort  Des  Moines,  No.  2,  in  the  Annals  of  Iowa  (Third 
Series),  Vol.  IV,  pp.  161-178. 

149  From  material  reprinted  from  the  Keosauqua  Times  in  the 
Davenport  Gazette,  Vol.  V,  No.  12,  November  13,  1845. 

150  Report  of  Agent  John  Beach  dated  September  1,  1846,  and 
printed  in  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  I, 
Doc.  4,  pp.  296-300. 

CHAPTER  IX 

151  The  account  of  Captain  Boone's  exploration  is  based  upon  his 


256      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

Journal  which  gives  a  daily  and  detailed  story  of  the  march.  The 
text  of  this  Journal  with  an  introduction  and  accompanying  docu- 
ments is  printed  in  the  appendix  to  this  volume. 

These  documents  are  all  in  the  office  of  the  Adjutant  General  at 
Washington,  D.  C,  photostat  prints,  secured  by  The  State  Historical 
Society  of  Iowa,  being  used  in  the  preparation  of  the  text. 

152  Josiah  Gregg,  in  the  preparation  of  his  Commerce  of  the 
Prairies,  the  classic  account  of  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  had  access  to 
Captain  Boone's  Journal.  Quotations  from  it  describing  the  "Eock 
Salt"  may  be  found  in  Vol.  II,  pp.  187-189,  of  Gregg's  work. 

153 /Captain  Boone's  record  for  July  4,  1843,  reads:  "Marched  4 
miles  E.  S.  E.  and  encamped  on  a  pretty  grove  of  Elm,  hackberry, 
.  .  .  .  with  good  grass  and  water  —  and  buffalo  in  sight,  con- 
cluded to  spend  the  4th  and  rest  the  teams  which  are  nearly  worn 
out.  The  country  sandy,  with  a  few  sand  hills.  Spent  the  Fourth  in 
roasting  fine  Buffalo  meat. —  Cured  some. ' ' 

154  This  account  is  based  upon  Cooke 's  Scenes  and  Adventures  in 
the  Army,  pp.  236-282. 

155  Gregg's  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,  Vol.  I,  pp.  30,  31. 

156  Gregg's  Commerce  of  the  Prairies,  Vol.  I,  pp.  44—49. 

157  This  was  located  a  little  north  of  the  present  town  of  Diamond 
Spring  in  Morris  County,  Kansas. 

158  This  point  was  about  twenty  miles  above  the  present  Dodge 
City  in  Morris  County,  Kansas,  and  was  about  midway  between  Inde- 
pendence and  Santa  Fe. 

CHAPTER  X 

159  The  source  material  for  this  chapter  is  found  in  Executive 
Documerits,  1st  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  VI,  Doc.  168.  The  mate- 
rial consists  of  the  following  documents:  a  letter  of  transmittal  from 
the  Adjutant  General  to  the  Secretary  of  War,  Captain  Allen's  report 
to  Colonel  Kearny  describing  in  general  the  route,  and  Captain  Allen's 
Journal  containing  the  detailed  narrative  of  the  expedition. 

These  documents  have  been  edited  with  an  introduction  and  crit- 
ical notes  by  Jacob  Van  der  Zee  and  published  in  The  Iowa  Journal 
of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  XI,  pp.  68-108. 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  257 

160  Medium  and  Swan  lakes  are  in  Emmet  County,  Iowa;  while 
Turtle  Lake  is  on  the  boundary  between  Iowa  and  Minnesota. 

161  See  Nicollet's  report  printed  in  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Ses- 
sion, 28th  Congress,  Vol.  II,  Doc.  52.    The  reference  is  to  page  13, 

162  The  route  to  the  Eaccoon  Eiver  seems  to  have  crossed  the  fol- 
lowing Iowa  counties:  Woodbury,  Ida,  Calhoun,  and  Jefferson. 

163  Government  records  contain  brief  mention  only  of  the  follow- 
ing additional  operations  of  the  dragoons  in  the  year  1844:  (1)  an 
expedition  of  five  companies  commanded  by  Captain  Wharton,  (2) 
Captain  Sumner's  march  from  Fort  Atkinson  to  the  region  north  of 
the  Minnesota  Eiver;  (3)  the  tour  of  one  company  under  Captain 
Boone  from  Fort  Gibson  to  a  point  on  the  Eed  Eiver;  and  (4)  the 
march  of  one  company  from  Arkansas  Eiver  to  Fort  Towson. —  See 
Eeport  of  Major  General  Winfield  Scott  dated  November  23,  1844, 
and  printed  in  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  28th  Congress,  Vol. 
I,  Doc.  2,  pp.  129-132. 

CHAPTER  XI 

164  Senate  Documents,  1st  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1, 
table  D,  et  passim. 

165  This  account  is  based  on  Captain  Sumner 's  report  which  is 
printed  in  Senate  Documents,  Vol.  I,  Doe.  1^  pp.  217-220.  This 
material  is  edited  with  introduction  and  notes  by  Jacob  Van  der  Zee 
in  The  Iowa  Journal  of  History  and  Politics,  Vol.  XI,  pp.  258-267. 

166  Located  between  Nicollet  and  Blue  Earth  counties  in  Minnesota. 

16T  Senate  Documents,  1st  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1, 
pp.  563,  564. 

168  This  was  a  widening  of  the  Minnesota  Eiver  and  borders  on 
Lac  qui  Parle  County  in  Minnesota. 

169  Between  Big  Stone  County,  Minnesota,  and  Roberts  County, 
South  Dakota. 

170  Located  between  Eamsey  and  Benson  counties  in  North  Dakota, 

171  Eeport  of  Agent  Amos  J.  Bruce,  dated  September  1,  1844,  and 
printed  in  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  28th  Congress,  Vol.  I, 
Doc.  2,  pp.  418,  419. 

18 


258      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

CHAPTER  XII 

172  The  narrative  and  description  of  this  chapter  are  based  upon 
the  following  sources : 

(a).  Senate  Documents,  1st  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1, 
pp.  208-217.  This  contains  General  Winfield  Scott's  report,  Colonel 
Kearny's  report  of  the  summer  campaign  of  1845,  a  brief  abstract  of 
journals  of  the  expedition  kept  by  Lieutenants  Turner  and  Franklin, 
and  a  map  furnished  by  the  latter  officer  which  gives  a  clear  and 
detailed  itinerary  of  the  outward  and  return  trails. 

(b).  Cooke's  Scenes  and  Adventures  in  the  Army,  pp.  282-432, 
This  account  by  a  participant  is  full  of  interesting  incidents  and  de- 
tails. The  scenic  descriptions  are  animated  and  vivid,  but  sometimes 
stilted  in  style. 

(c).  Thwaites's  Early  Western  Travels,  Vol.  XXX.  This  con- 
tains a  reprint  of  Joel  Palmer's  Journal  of  Travels  over  the  BocTcy 
Mountains.  Palmer  was  one  of  the  leaders  of  an  emigrant  party 
which  travelled  over  the  Oregon  Trail  during  the  same  months  that 
the  dragoons  were  on  the  march.  His  account  is,  therefore,  a  contem- 
porary one  and  is  valuable  for  vivid  descriptions  of  emigrant  parties 
and  scenes  along  the  route. 

(d).  Parkman's  The  Oregon  Trail.  Mr.  Parkman  travelled  over 
the  trail  as  far  as  Fort  Laramie  in  1846.  His  descriptions  of  emi- 
grants, Indians,  scenery,  hardships,  and  animal  life  make  the  work  a 
valuable,  near-contemporary  source,  as  well  as  a  charming,  readable 
narrative. 

(e).  Ein  Ausflug  nach  den  Felsen-Geiirgen  im  Jahre  1839,  trans- 
lated and  edited  by  Frederick  A.  Wislizenus  and  published  by  the 
Missouri  Historical  Society.  This  is  an  autobiographical  account  by 
Dr.  Adolph  Wislizenus  who  travelled  over  the  trail. 

(f).  The  report  of  Lieutenant  Fremont's  expedition  over  the 
trail  in  1842.  This  account  found  in  many  editions  is  very  valuable 
for  its  descriptions  of  life,  scenery,  and  climate  along  the  route. 

(g).  mies'  Eegister,  Vol.  LXIX,  pp.  123,  124,  and  pp.  302,  303. 
These  pages  contain  respectively  a  brief  condensed  account  of 
Colonel  Kearny's  march  by  Captain  Cooke  and  a  reprint  of  the  docu- 
ments mentioned  in  the  first  source  above. 

(h) .  A  Topographical  Map  of  the  Soad  from  Missouri  to  Oregon, 
in  seven  sections.    This  map  was  prepared  from  the  journals  and  field 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  259 

notes  of  Fremont  and  presents  a  detailed  view  of  the  Oregon  Trail. 
Its  meteorological  observations,  location  of  Indians,  and  the  remarks 
upon  the  animal  life  and  vegetation  along  the  route  make  this  map  of 
the  highest  use  and  value  in  studying  the  trail. 

(i).  Edwin  Bryant's  What  I  Saw  in  California.  This  author's 
descriptions  of  his  journey  over  the  trail  in  1846  furnish  additional 
view-points  on  the  famous  transcontinental  road. 

(j).  In  the  Life,  Letters  and  Traveh  of  Father  Pierre-Jean  Be 
Smet,  Vol.  I,  edited  by  Chittenden  and  Eichardson,  appears  De  Smet  's 
description  of  the  trail  as  he  saw  it  in  1841. 

(k).  In  Chittenden's  The  History  of  the  American  Fur  Trade  of 
the  Far  West,  Vol.  I,  Chapter  XXVI,  the  itinerary  of  the  trail  is 
given,  with  the  distances  between  the  various  stations  along  the  route. 

173  The  South  Pass  was  simply  a  high  ridge  between  the  ends  of 
the  Sweetwater  and  Wind  Eiver  Mountains  and  was  located  in  the 
southern  part  of  what  is  now  Fremont  County,  "Wyoming.  The  ascent 
to  it  is  so  gradual  that  it  is  not  easy  to  determine  just  when  the  sum- 
mit is  reached.  It  had  nothing  of  the  gorge-like  character  of  such 
passes  as  St.  Bernard  or  Simplon  in  Europe  or  the  Allegheny  passes 
in  America. 

174  These  statistics  are  given  by  Colonel  Kearny  in  his  report  of 
the  expedition  to  E.  Jones,  the  Adjutant  General  of  the  United  States 
Army. 

CHAPTER  Xm 

175  For  this  chapter  the  leading  sources  are  again  Cooke's  Scenes 
and  Adventures  in  the  Army;  Niles'  Segister,  Vol.  LXIX,  pp.  123, 
124;  and  Senate  Documents,  1st  Session,  29th  Congress,  Vol.  I,  Doc.  1, 
pp.  208-217. 

176  Crow  Creek  is  in  "Weld  County  in  the  present  State  of  Colorado 
which  the  regiment  entered  on  July  18,  1845.  On  the  evening  of  July 
22nd  the  encampment  was  near  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Denver. 

177  Descriptive  features  are  taken  largely  from  Thomas  J.  Farn- 
ham's  Travels  as  reprinted  in  Thwaites's  Early  Western  Travels,  Vol. 

xxvin. 

178  On  this  date  the  command  entered  Hamilton  County,  Kansas. 


260      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

CHAPTER  XIV 

179  The  following  authorities  are  the  basis  for  this  chapter: 

(a).  John  T.  Hughes's  Doniphan's  Expedition,  Chapters  I-V. 
The  author  was  a  private  in  Company  C  of  the  mounted  volunteers 
from  Clay  County,  Missouri.  This  is  a  detailed  account  of  the  march 
from  day  to  day  written  by  a  competent  hand  and  published  in  1848. 
This  account  has  been  edited  with  notes  by  William  E.  Connelley,  who 
has  also  printed  the  official  rosters  of  the  eleven  volunteer  companies. 

(b).  Frank  S.  Edwards's  A  Campaign  in  New  Mexico.  The 
author  was  a  private  in  a  company  of  Missouri  artillery  and  gives 
concrete  details  of  the  march  to  Santa  Fe. 

(c).  Lieutenant  W.  H.  Emory's  Notes  of  a  Military  Eeconnois- 
sance.  The  author  was  attached  to  the  "Army  of  the  West"  as  a 
topographical  engineer  and  from  August  2-18,  1846,  gives  a  daily 
account  of  the  march.  Emory's  unofficial  diary  of  the  march  from 
August  2nd  to  September  5th  is  printed  in  Niles'  Register,  Vol.  LXXI, 
pp.  138-140,  157-159,  174,  175. 

A  map  in  Lieutenant  Emory's  Notes  gives  a  detailed  topograph- 
ical view  of  the  route  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Santa  Fe  and  also  of 
General  Kearny's  march  from  that  point  to  San  Diego. 

(d).  Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert's  Notes  published  as  an  appendix 
to  Emory's  Notes  presents  the  climatic,  topographical,  and  botanical 
features  along  the  route  pursued  by  the  "Army  of  the  West". 

(e).  The  journal  of  an  anonymous  officer  from  August  13  to  23, 
1846,  is  printed  in  Niles '  Begister,  Vol.  LXXI,  pp.  90-92. 

isoParkman's  The  Oregon  Trail,  pp.  377,  378  (New  Library 
Edition). 

CHAPTER  XV 

181  Emory's  Notes  of  a  Military  Beconnoissance  gives  a  detailed 
story  of  the  march  from  Santa  Fe  to  San  Diego.  Captain  Johnston's 
Journal  is  a  daily  record  from  September  25  to  December  4,  1846, 
and  is  printed  in  House  Executive  Documents,  1st  Session,  30th  Con- 
gress, Doc.  41,  pp.  567-614.  General  Kearny's  reports  of  this  expe- 
dition are  printed  in  Senate  Documents,  1st  Session,  30th  Congress, 
Vol.  I,  Doe.  1,  pp.  513-517,  and  the  same  are  reprinted  in  Niles' 
Begister,  Vol.  LXXII,  pp.  170,  171.  The  brief  report  by  Major 
Swords  is  in  House  Executive  Documents,  2nd  Session,  30th  Congress, 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  261 

Vol.  I,  Doc.  1,  pp.  226-228.  Good  secondary  accounts  are  to  be 
"found  in  Sabin's  Kit  Carson  Days;  Brackett's  History  of  the  United 
States  Cavalry,  pp.  69-77;  and  Bancroft's  History  of  California, 
Vol.  V,  Chs.  XIII  and  XV.  In  the  latter  are  contained  elaborate 
lists  of  references  which  refer  to  minute  and  detailed  phases  of  this 
campaign  and  to  the  subsequent  disputes  between  the  commanders. 

182  Captain  Johnston's  journal  ends  with  December  4,  1846,  just 
two  days  before  his  death, 

183  A  great  amount  of  controversy  arose  out  of  this  battle  for 
which  General  Kearny  was  severely  censured.  The  subsequent  dis- 
putes between  Kearny,  Fremont,  and  Stockton  were  presented  by 
Senator  Benton  who  plead  the  cause  of  Fremont,  then  his  son-in-law. 
This  speech  of  sixty  pages  given  in  the  Senate  is  in  the  Congressional 
Globe,  1st  Session,  30th  Congress,  Appendix,  pp.  977-1040. 

i84Richman's  California  Under  Spain  and  Mexico,  1535-1847,  pp. 
325-327. 

CHAJPTER  XVI 

185  Executive  Documents,  1st  Session,  31st  Congress,  Vol.  VIII, 
Doc.  51.  This  document  upon  which  the  text  is  mainly  based  consists 
of  the  following  material: 

(a).  Adjutant  General  R.  Jones's  instructions,  dated  April  IS, 
1849. 

(b).  Reports  from  the  Indian  agents  at  St.  Peter's  and  Long 
Prairie  in  1848  and  1849. 

(c).  Major  Woods's  twenty-eight  page  report,  dated  Fort  Snell- 
ing,  November  10,  1849. 

(d).  Two  letters  from  G.  A.  Belcourt,  describing  the  half-breeds 
and  dated  November  25,  1845,  and  August  20,  1849. 

(e).  Two  letters  from  Captain  John  Pope,  dated  October  1  and 
3,  1849. 

(f).     Captain  Pope's  map  of  the  route  pursued  by  the  expedition. 

186  Approximately  on  the  present  site  of  Sauk  Rapids  in  Benton 
County,  Minnesota. 

187  Across  the  present  Stearns  County  in  Minnesota. 

188  Whipple  Lake  or  Reno  Lake  in  Pope  County,  Minnesota. 


262      MARCHES  OF  THE  DRAGOONS 

189  Likely  the  present  Pomme  de  Terre  Lake  in  Grant  County. 

190  Near  Wahpeton  in  Richlands  County,  North  Dakota. 

191  The  command  travelled  over  the  counties  of  Grand  Forks, 
Walsh,  and  Pembina  in  North  Dakota. 

192  Collections  of  the  State  Historical  Society  of  North  Dakota, 
Vol.  I,  pp.  384-405. 

193  Marble 's  To  Bed  Eiver  and  Beyond  in  Harper 's  New  Monthly 
Magazine,  Vol.  XXI,  pp.  581-606  at  584,  585. 

CHAPTER  XVII 

194  From  the  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth  in  the  Adminis- 
tration Building,  dated  May  28,  1846,  July  13,  1848,  and  November  6 
and  10,  1849. 

195  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  May  14,  1849. 

196  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth;  Captain  Chas.  S.  Lovell  to 
Major  D.  C.  Buell,  July  30,  1850. 

197  Fost  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  January  26,  1850. 

198  Posi  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth;  Lieutenant  Colonel  E.  V. 
Sumner  to  Major  D.  C.  Buell,  January  30,  1851. 

199  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  May  16,  22,  1846. 

200  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth;  Colonel  Sumner  to  Major 
General  R.  Jones,  July  12,  1851. 

201  Quoted  in  Crothers  's  Humanly  SpeaTcing,  p.  60. 

202  Lowe's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  pp.  24,  25,  45,  46. 

203  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  January  19,  May  25,  June 
7,  July  8,  1849. 

204  Post  Records  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  May  12,  1850. 

205  Lowe 's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  pp.  20-22. 

206  Quoted  from  Lowe's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  p.  22. 
207 Lowe's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  p.  28. 

208  Lowe 's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  pp.  24,  26. 


NOTES  AND  REFERENCES  263 

209  Quoted  from  Lowe's  Five  Years  a  Dragoon,  pp.  31,  32. 

APPENDIX 

210  This  episode  is  described  in  Gregg's  Commerce  of  the  Prairies, 
Vol.  II,  pp.  166-168. 

211  Located  near  the  present  site  of  the  village  of  Choteau  in  Mayes 
County  in  Oklahoma. 

212  Manuel  Armijo  was  governor  of  New  Mexico  (except  during  a 
brief  interval)  from  1838  to  the  American  occupation  in  1846. 

213  See  note  152  in  Chapter  IX. 


INDEX 


265 


INDEX 


Abert,  J.  W.,  145,  260;  journal  of, 
146 

Adjutant  General,   181 

Agatha    (Steamboat),   95 

Agency  (Iowa),  dragoons  at,  53 

Agency,  location  of  Indian,  254 

Albuquerque,    152 

Allen,  James,  command  of,  82 ;  march 
of,  90,  91;  reference  to,  92,  116, 
119,  142,  256;  recommendations  of, 
94,  95 ;  disrepute  of,  95,  96 ;  jour- 
ney of,  108-114;  description  by, 
109;  opinion  of,  110,  111,  112; 
exploration  by,  110;  journal  of,  114 

American  Fur  Company,  92,   124,  126 

Anderson,  Richard  H.,  183,  202,  208, 
235 

Angry  Man  (Chief),  welcome  by,  67; 
reference  to,   68,   69 

Antelope    (Steamboat),   79 

Antelope,  herds  of,  67,  71,  97,  99, 
123;  reference  to,  130,  131,  132, 
146,    195,    196,   205 

Apache  Indians,    139,    153,   154 

Apothleohole,  town  of,  236 

Arapaho  Indians,  68,  69;  dragoons 
among,  72 ;  council  with,  72 

Arbuckle,  Matthew,  25;  command  of, 
79 

Arickara  Indians,  council  with,  69, 
70;  location  of,  69;  character  of, 
69;  number  of,  69,  70;  friendship 
of,  73,  74 

Arkansas,  forts  in,  79 ;  settlement  of, 
85 ;  limestone  in,  188 

Arkansas,  Territory  of,  1,  29 ;  boun- 
dary of,   24 

Arkansas  River,  9,  35,  64,  71,  72,  73, 
74,  86,  105,  106,  120,  136,  137, 
144,   145,   146,   170,   182,   184,   187, 


189,  194,  195,  203,  212,  223,  225 
230,  237,  245,  257;  march  down 
74,  75;  high  water  in,  80,  210 
211;  expedition  to,  92,  93;  dra 
goons  on,  97,  102,  105,  139,  183 
185;  crossing  of,  99,  192,  205,  206 
208;  route  of  Boone  along,  189 
193,  205-214;  timber  along,  189 
193,  205,  206,  207,  213;  rock 
formation  along,  189-193,  196,  205 
tributaries  of,  189,  191,  192,  193 
206,  207,  208;  topography  along, 
189-193,  206,  207,  208;  soil  along, 
189-193,  213,  214;  vegetation 
along,  191-193,  208;  depth  of,  192, 
206  (see  also  Salt  Fork  of  the 
Arkansas  River  and  Cimarron 
River) 

Armijo,  Manuel,  148,  149,  213,  263; 
wife  of,    152 

Army,  size  of,  1,  115;  distribution  of, 
1 ;  western  department  of,  1 ;  re- 
cruiting of,  1,  2 ;  desertions  from, 
2-4;  punishment  in,  2,  3;  intem- 
perance in,  4,  5 ;  pay  in,  5 ;  moral 
culture  in,  5,  6;  uniforms  of,  6; 
equipment  of,  6;  monotony  in,  6,  7; 
interest  in,  7;  manual  labor  in,  7; 
service  of,  8 ;  description  of  mobili- 
zation of,  143,   144 

Army  of  the  West,  dragoons  in,  142- 
150,  151;  description  of  march  of, 
144-150;    provisions   for,    144,    145 

Artillery,  addition  of,   143 

Ash  Creek,  buffalo  on,  107;  reference 
to,  124,   141 

Ash   Hollow,    124 

Atkinson,  Henry,  location  of  Jefferson 
Barracks   by,    17;    reference   to,    18 

Atlantic  Ocean,   132 


267 


268 


INDEX 


Audubon,    John    J.,    visit   of,    to    Fort 

Croghan,    94 
Audubon,   Maria  R.,  255 
Axe    (Chief),   68 

Baker,  Mathias  S.,   169 

Baldwin,  Private,   170,   174 

Barracks,  erection  of,   80,   81 

Bartlett,  Corporal,  246 

Beach,  John,  90,  95,  254,  255;  opin- 
ion of,  91 

Beale,  Lieutenant,  158 

Bean,  Private,  death  of,  187,  223 

Bear,   110,    114,    130,    131 

Bear  Lake,  dragoons  at,  163 

Beatte,   speech  of,  43 

"Bedlam",   175,   176 

Beef,  price  of,   171 

Belcourt,   G.  A.,   165,  261 

Bellevue,   dragoons   at,    82 

Benson  County    (North  Dakota),   257 

Bent,  Charles,   72,   138,   212 

Bent's  Fork,  dragoons  at,  137;  de- 
scription of,    138,    139 

Bent's  Fort,  army  at,  146,  147,  148; 
cattle  from,  212 

Benton,  Thomas  H.,  261 

Big  Elk  (Chief),  character  of,  66 

Big  John  Spring,  144 

Big  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River 
(see   Cimarron  River) 

Big  Sioux  River,   111;   valley  of,   113 

Big  Stone  County    (Minnesota),  257 

Big  Stone  Lake,  dragoons  at,   117 

Birds,  kinds  of,   123 

Birdsall,  E.  B.,  command  of,  86 

Black  Dog    (Chief),   35 

Black  Havck  Purchase,  treaty  of,  76 

Black  Hawk  War,  12,  18,  22 

Black  Hills,  dragoons  in,  131 

Black  Jack  Point,    103 

Blackfeet  Indians,    72 

Bloomfleld   (Iowa),  90 

Blue  Camp,    103 

Blue-coat   (Chief),  68 

Blue  Earth  County   (Minnesota),  257 

Blue  Earth  River,  dragoons  on,  108 

Blue  River,   crossing  of,   121,   236 


Boat,   construction  of  skin,   211,   212 

Bomford,  George,  241 

Bonnell,   Joseph,    80 

Bonneville,  Captain,   124,   128,   133 

Boone,  Daniel,  son  of,   181 

Boone,  Nathan,  49,  52,  98,  101,  169, 
195,  201,  208,  211,  223,  224,  227, 
231,  232,  237,  255,  256,  257;  com- 
mand of,  82,  99,  183;  march  of, 
86,  87;  expedition  of,  97,  102; 
journal  of,  99,  100,  102,  181-237; 
sketch  of  life  of,  181,  182;  report 
of,  181,  183-188;  route  of  expedi- 
tion of,  183-237;  beginning  of 
march  of,   189 

Boonville    (Missouri),   50 

Boston,  recruits  from,  2 

Bounties,   payment  of,   2 

Boyer  River,   255 

Bradford,  William,  death  of,  28; 
burial  of,  29 

Brooke,  George  M.,  85 

Browne,  Jesse  B.,  36,  49,  52,  53,  246, 
247 

Bruce,  Amos  J.,  257 

Bryant,    Edwin,    259 

Brydon,  Edward,  174 

Buell,  D.  C,   262 

Buffalo,  herds  of,  9,  10,  37,  55,  69, 
71,  101,  105,  106,  107,  141,  146, 
165,  210,  211,  212,  213,  214,  215, 
216,  217;  reference  to,  10,  11,  111, 

130,  134,  135,  185,  203,  208,  209, 
222,  224,  225,  227,  248,  252;  hunt- 
ing of,   29,  46,   100,   112,   113,   123, 

131,  167,  211,  219;  evidence  of, 
97,  99,  197;  destruction  of,  98, 
118,  197,  199;  subsistence  on  meat 
of,  188;  absence  of,  195;  curing 
meat  of,   211 

Buffalo   (New  York),   14,   242 
Buford,  John,  208 
Buford  Avenue,   176 
Bull  Tail   (Chief),  reply  of,   129 
Bullett,  George,  speech  of,  43 
Burgwin,   John  H.   K.,   troop   of,    14; 
reference   to,    15,    30,    52,    53,    94, 
120,  144;  fort  established  by,  93 


INDEX 


269 


Cache  la  Poudre  River,   136 

Caches,    camp    at,    105 ;    reference   to, 

141 
Cactus,   125,   137 
Caddo  Indians,   226 
Calhoun,  John  C,  76 
Calhoun,  P.,   110 
Calhoun  Count}-   (Iowa),   257 
California,    traders    to,    99 ;    reference 

to,     143,    153;    campaign    to,     151- 

160;    conquest   of,    152,    159,    160; 

dragoons  in,   155 
Camanche    Indians,    country    of,    34; 

control  of,  34;  reference  to,  34,  37, 

39,    47,     138,    201,    232;    dragoons 

among,   37 
Camp,   description   of,    139,    140 
Camp  No.   1,    189 

Camp  Burbees,  description  of,   23,  24 
Camp  Cass,  31 
Camp  Clyman,  246 
Camp  Des  Moines,   52 
Camp    Penwick,    93 
Camp  Jackson,  winter  quarters  at,  23- 

33;   description  of,   27;  life  at,   27, 

28,    29;    Leavenworth    at,    29,    30; 

dragoons  at,   32  ;  reference  to,  245, 

246 
Camp  Kearney,  location  of,   79 
Camp  Leavenworth,   36 
Camp  Sabine,  location  of,  77 
Camp  Sandy,  location  of,  25 
Canada,   settlers  from,    118 
Canadian     River,     dragoons     on,     97, 

101,    102;    reference   to,    187,    220, 

221,    224;    rock    formation    along, 

226,  227,    233;    timber   along,    226, 

227,  228,  229,  230,  233,  236; 
tributaries  of,  226,  228,  229,  230, 
231,  235,  236;  topography  along, 
227,  228,  229,  230,  231,  233,  235; 
gypsum  on,  226,  227;  crossing  of, 
229;  vegetation  along,  230,  231; 
soil  along,  232,  233,  235  (see  also 
North  Fork  of  the  Canadian  River) 

Cantonment  Gibson,    1    (see  also   Fort 

Gibson) 
Cantonment    Leavenworth,    expedition 


at,  8,  12  (see  also  Fort  Leaven- 
worth ) 

Carbine  Creek,  209 

Carlisle  (Pennsylvania),  recruits  from, 
78,    79,    174 

Carson,  Christopher,  133,  152,  158; 
opinion  of,   153,   154 

Cass,  Lewis  opinion  of,  13 ;  reference 
to,  34,  48,  52,  241,  242,  247,  248 

Cassville   (Missouri),  31 

Catlin,  George,  35,  39,  246,  247,  248; 
praise  by,  48 

Cattle,  loss  of,  158;  capture  of,  159 

Cerro  Gordo,  dragoons  at,   153 

Chambers,  John,  90,  254;  negotia- 
tions of,   91 

Chaplains,   lack  of,   5 

Charity,  need  of,  for  soldiers,  7,  8 

Chavey,  Antonio  J.,  murder  of,  185, 
210 

Cherokee  Indians,  35,  42,  47;  loca- 
tion of,    77;   uprising  of,   80,   82 

Cherry   Creek,    136,    137 

Cheyenne  Indians,  68,  69,  135,  138, 
139;  dragoons  among,  72-74;  coun- 
cils with,  72-74 ;  character  of,  72 ; 
friendship   of,    74 

Chicago,  description  of,  61,  62 ;  ref- 
erence to,  243 

Chikaskia  River  (see  Shawwacospay 
River) 

Chimney  Rock,    125 

Chippewa  Indians,  163;  battle  ground 
of,  165 ;  school  for,  165 ;  chiefs  of, 
166;  council  with,  166;  numbers 
of,   166 

Chippewa  River,    163 

Choctaw  Indians,   47;   location  of,   77 

Cholera,  evidence  of,  18 ;  plague  of, 
170 

Choteau,  trading  house  of,  187,  231, 
232 

Choteau   (Oklahoma),   263 

Chouteau's  Island,  9 ;  expedition  at, 
10,  11;  feast  at,  11;  dragoons  at, 
139 

Chugwater  River,  dragoons  on,    135 

Cimarron  Crossing,    106,   141 


270 


INDEX 


Cimarron  River,  101,  203,  220;  tim- 
ber along,  221,  222,  224;  buffalo 
along,  222;  character  of,  222,  223; 
crossing  of,  222;  salt  on,  222,  223; 
valley  of,  222;  g;ypsum  near,  222, 
223;  rock  strata  near,  223,  224 
(called  also  Big  Red  Fork  of  the 
Arkansas  River  and  Lower  Red 
Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River) 

Cincinnati    (Ohio),    14 

Clarksville   (Tennessee),   15 

Clay  County   (Missouri),   260 

Clothing,  lack  of,   18,   19,  20 

Coffee,  rations  of,   140 

Coldwater  Creek,   162 

Colorado,   dragoons   in,   64,   251 

Colorado  River,   154,   155 

Columbia    (Tennessee),   15 

Columbus   (Ohio),   14 

Comanche  Indians  (see  Camanche  In- 
dians) 

Company  A,  commander  of,  64,  209; 
location  of,   129;   death  in,  252 

Company  B,  captain  of,  49,  62 ;  com- 
mander of,  53;  location  of,  89,  115, 
152 

Company  C,  commander  of,  64,  209; 
reference  to,  183 

Company  D,  97,  183,   190,   191,  228 

Company  E,  recruiting  of,  14;  death 
in,  187,  223;  reference  to,  190,  210 

Company  F,  assembly  of,  30;  refer- 
ence to,  209 

Company  G,  30;  commander  of,  64; 
location   of,    152 

Company  H,  assembly  of,  30;  captain 
of,  49 ;  remnants  of,  63 ;  reference 
to,  204,  209,  210;  death  in,  234 

Company  I,  assembly  of,  30;  journal 
of,  31,  45,  46,  53,  246;  captain  of, 
49,  90 ;  remnants  of,  63 ;  location 
of,    119,    152 

Company  K,  assembly  of,  30;  talent 
in,    175 

Conestoga  wagons,    138 

Confederate  States,   President  of,    14 

Congress,  memorial  to,  8 ;  appropria- 
tion by,  80,  86 


Congress    (Frigate),    159 

Connelley,  William  E.,  260 

Consumption,   deaths  from,   5 

Cooke,  Philip  St.  George,  10,  107, 
120,  122,  127,  130,  131,  133,  134, 
139,  185,  186,  213,  242,  258;  ser- 
vice of,  14,  15 ;  command  of,  99, 
100,  105,  106,  209;  escort  duty 
by,    102-107;   journal  of,    104 

Cooke,    Private,    21 

Coon  Creek,   141 

Coons,    109 

Corn,  lack  of,   25;   price  of,    171 

Corser,  John  W.,  court-martial  of,  173 

Cottonwood  Creek,  9,  104,  144  (also 
called  Cottonwood  Fork) 

Council  Bluffs,  Camp  Kearney  near, 
79 ;  agency  at,  82,  93 ;  march  to, 
82,  83 ;  fort  at,  93 ;  game  near,  93 ; 
reference  to,    255 

Council  Grove,  expedition  at,  9 ;  de- 
scription of,  103,  104;  reference  to, 
107 

Court  House  Rock,   125 

Court-martial,  169;  account  of,  173, 
174 

Cow  Creek,  9,  105,  106,  145,  213; 
crossing  of,   99 

Cowardice,  punishment  of,  3 

Cow-wa-map-sha   Creek,    228 

Cox,   Thomas,    158 

Coyote  Creek,    148 

Creek  Indians,  27,  42,  225;  location 
of,   77;   succor  from,  233,  234 

Crockett,  Davy,  election  of,  to  Con- 
gress,   15 

Croghan,  George,  visit  of,  to  Fort  Des 
Moines,   60 

Crosman,   George  H.,   49 

Crow  Creek,   136,  259 

Culver,  Mr.,   90 

Cumberland  River,  dragoons  on,   15 

Cumberland  Road,  dragoons  on,   14 

Dallas   County,    114 
Davenport,   Colonel,    183 
Davis,    Jefferson,    career   of,    14;    ref- 
erence  to,    28 


INDEX 


271 


Davis  County   (Iowa),  90 

Dearborn  wagons,   103,   213 

Deer,  herds  of,  67,  71,  97,  99,  109, 
130,    146,    192,    193 

Deer  Creek,    130,    135 

Delaware  Indians,  village  of,  24 ;  ref- 
erence to,  35 ;  leader  of,  43 ;  loca- 
tion of,  77 

Denver    (Colorado),    251 

Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  251 

Desertion,  menace  of,  2 ;  causes  of, 
2,   3,  4,   5 ;   punishment  for,   3 

De  Smet,   Father,    131 

Des  Moines,  site  of,  57,  58;  popula- 
tion  of,    250 

Des  Moines  Rapids,   17 

Des  Moines  River,  dragoons  at  mouth 
of,  50,  51;  width  of,  at  Raccoon 
Fork,  58;  navigation  of,  58;  de- 
scent of,  by  Lea,  58,  59;  reference 
to,  88,  254;  fort  on,  94;  steamer 
on,  95;  dragoons  on,  108,  109; 
source  of,   110 

Des  Moines  Valley,  Kearny  in,  49- 
59;  removal  of  Indians  from,  96 

Detroit   (Michigan),  dragoons  at,   15 

Devils'   Card  Table,    237 

Devil's   Gate,    131,    134 

Devil's  Lake,  dragoons  at,   118 

Diamond  Spring,  9,  144;  camp  at, 
104 

Diamond  Spring   (Kansas),  256 

Disease,  prevalence  of,  5 

Divide,  dragoons  at  continental,   132 

Dodge,  Henry,  colonelcy  of,  13 ;  rec 
ommendations  of,  19,  20 ;  descrip 
tion  of,  21,  22;  reference  to,  23 
25,  30,  36,  245,  246,  247,  248 
249,  251,  252;  report  of,  26;  ene 
mies  of,  28 ;  opinion  of,  on  western 
march,  29;  forced  march  of,  36 
command  of,  36;  arrival  of,  at 
Pawnee  village,  39;  councils  of 
with  Indians,  39-45,  47,  65,  66 
68,  69,  70,  72-74;  visit  of  Indians 
to,  43 ;  praise  of,  48 ;  resignation 
of,  60;  last  dragoon  march  of,  64; 
reward  for,  75 ;  order  book  of,  244 


Dodge  City    (Kansas),   256 

Dougherty,   Major,   65,   69 

Dover    (Tennessee),    15 

Dragoon,  death  of,   102 

Dragoon  Creek,  reason  for  naming  of, 
223 

Dragoons,  precursors  of,  12;  organ- 
ization of,  13,  14;  advantages  of, 
13 ;  composition  of,  13 ;  service  of, 
13;  officers  of,  13,  14,  120,  144, 
169,  246;  troop  of,  14;  journey  of, 
to  Jefferson  Barracks,  14-22 ;  Com- 
pany E  of,  14,  187,  190,  210,  223; 
spirits  of,  16,  17,  32 ;  camps  of, 
16,  61,  112,  139,  140;  hardships 
of,  18,  19,  20,  47,  48,  52,  54,  102, 
105,  109,  113,  147,  155,  156,  158, 
244,  245;  manual  labor  by,  19,  51, 
81,  85,  172;  desertion  of,  19,  20, 
38,  60,  78,  170;  equipment  of, 
19,  20,  26,  29,  143,  151,  153; 
punishment  of,  20,  21,  24,  173, 
174;  training  of,  20,  26,  32,  33; 
drill  of,  21,  22,  104,  148;  recruits 
for,  21,  78,  79,  115,  170,  242; 
horses  for,  22;  first  march  of,  23- 
25 ;  march  of,  to  Fort  Gibson,  23- 
25,  30-32 ;  stampede  of  horses  of, 
26;  disaffection  among,  28;  Com- 
pany I  of,  30,  31,  45,  46,  49,  53, 
63,  90,  119,  152,  246;  review  of, 
30,  33;  escort  duty  of,  30,  81,  82, 
97,  102,  103,  209,  210;  Company 
H  of,  30,  49,  63,  204,  209,  210, 
234;  Company  G  of,  30,  64,  152; 
Company  K  of,  30,  175 ;  Company 
F  of,  30,  209;  rations  of,  31,  38, 
55,  108,  116,  140,  147,  155;  sick- 
ness among,  31,  32,  36,  38,  46,  62, 
85,  134,  135,  147;  expedition  of, 
to  Pawnees,  34-48;  reorganization 
of,  36;  Company  B  of,  49,  53,  62, 
89,  115,  152;  exploration  of  Des 
Moines  Valley  by,  49-59 ;  barracks 
for,  51,  52,  92;  appearance  of,  59, 
60,  61,  101,  120,  125,  158;  Com- 
pany A  of,  64,  129,  209,  252; 
Company  C  of,  64,  183,  209;  trav- 


272 


INDEX 


els  of,  to  Rocky  Mountains,  64-75 ; 
inspection  of,  69,  104,  140,  155; 
success  of,  75 ;  frontier  work  of, 
76-87,  257;  strength  of,  77,  78, 
85;  location  of,  79,  115;  drowning 
of,  82,  83  ;  patrol  of,  in  Iowa  Ter- 
ritory, 88-96  ;  life  of,  92  ;  Company 
D  of,  97,  183,  190,  191,  228;  con- 
dition of,  101,  102,  252;  march 
of,  to  Northwest,  108-114;  visit 
of,  among  Sioux  Indians,  115-119; 
Oregon  trail  march  of,  120-133 ;  de- 
scription of  march  of,  123,  124, 
125,  130,  131,  153,  154;  return 
of,  from  South  Pass,  134-141;  ser- 
vice of,  in  Mexican  "War,  142-150 ; 
mule  mounts  for,  151;  march  of,  to 
California,  151-160;  route  of,  153, 
154,  181,  251;  march  of,  to  Red 
River  of  the  North,  161-168;  re- 
port of,  168;  drunkenness  of,  169, 
170,  173,  174;  stories  of,  175, 
176;    Boone   in,    181,    182 

Drunkenness,  punishment  for,  3 ; 
court-martial  for,   173,   174 

Dublin   University,    175 

Dubuque,   117 

Ducks,  flocks  of,  109,  206 

Duffy    (dragoon),    175 

Duncan,   Matthew,   command  of,   64 

Dunlap's  Ferry,   dragoons   at,    75 

East,   Dr.,   213 

Eastman,    Corporal,    246 

Eaton,   John  H.,   241 

Edwards,  A.  G.,  246 

Edwards,  trading  house  of,  187,  231, 

235 
"Elbow  Lake",    163 
Elk,  herd  of,  65,  101,  109,  146,  209, 

215,    216;    evidence   of,    97 
Ellis,    Mary,    grave   of,    122 
Elm   Grove,    75 
Elm  River,   164 
Emigrants,     caravans    of,     121,     122, 

123;    numbers    of,    133;    reference 

to,    134,    135,    258 
Emmet   County    (Iowa),    257 


Emory,    Lieutenant,    journal    of,    151, 

152;    reference  to,    154 
End  of  the  Current   (Chief),   166 
Erie    (Pennsylvania),    14 
Escort,   march  of,   8-12 
Evans,   Leroy  C,   90 
Ewell,   R.   T.,    170 

Fairfield    (Iowa),   mail  from,   92 

Falls  of  St.   Anthony,   59 

False  Washita  River,   40,   187,   227 

Falstaff,  Jack,  21 

Far  "West,  winning  of,  133 

Farnham,  Thomas  J.,   138 

Fayetteville    (Arkansas),   25 

First  United  States  Dragoons  (see 
Dragoons) 

Fish,   abundance  of,   163 

Fitzpatrick,   Thomas,    123,   124,   152 

Flagg,  Edmund,    18 

Fleas,   pestilence  of,   62 

Florida,    176 

Forage,   march  for,    26 

Ford,  Lemuel,  command  of,  64 

Forks  of  the  Platte,   123 

Fort  Armstrong,  dragoons  at,  17;  lo- 
cation of,  243 

Fort  Atkinson,  dragoons  at,  89;  bar- 
racks at,  89;  life  at,  89;  reference 
to,  90,  119,  254,  257;  march  from, 
115 

Fort  Bent,  trade  at,  72;  reference  to, 
143 

Fort  Coffee,  dragoons  at,   79 

Fort  Crawford,  6,  89;  buildings  at, 
7;  dragoons  at,  16,  17;  troops  at, 
85;   Hoffman  at,  243 

Fort  Croghan,  establishment  of,  93 ; 
location  of,  93,  255;  name  of,  93; 
purpose   of,    93 ;    description   of,    94 

Fort  Des  Moines  (No.  1),  naming  of, 
52,  249;  visitor  at,  59,  60;  social 
life  at,  60;  conditions  at,  60;  com- 
mander at,  60,  61 ;  abandonment 
of,   62,   63;   site  of,   250 

Fort  Des  Moines  (No.  2).  location  of, 
94;  establishment  of,  94;  purpose 
of,    94;    construction    of,    95;    quar- 


INDEX 


273 


ters  at,  95 ;  abandonment  of,  96 ; 
expedition  from,  108 ;  return  to, 
114;  reference  to,  116,  249;  dra- 
goons at,    119 

Fort  Des  Moines   (No.  3),  249 

Fort  Garry,   167 

Fort  Gibson,  march  to,  23-25,  30-32; 
Seventh  Infantry  at,  25 ;  reference 
to,  27,  34,  42,  43,  49,  82,  85,  183, 
187,  189,  191,  235,  248,  249,  257; 
review  at,  30;  return  to,  45-48, 
102,  237;  Kearny  at,  47;  Indian 
council  at,  47;  dragoons  at,  79, 
244;  Indian  uprising  near,  80; 
expedition  from,  97;  topography 
about,   237 

Fort  Holmes,    102,   235,    236 

Fort  Howard,  expedition  to,   61 

Fort  Laramie,  125,  134,  135,  258; 
importance  of,  126;  description  of, 
126,    127 

Fort  Leavenworth,  6,  46,  60,  64,  74, 
75,  80,  82,  85,  90,  93,  96,  104, 
106,  107,  139,  141,  143,  144,  155, 
158,  159,  209,  251,  252,  260;  re- 
turn of  dragoons  to,  62 ;  dragoons 
at,  79;  military  road  to,  80,  81; 
quarters  at,  80,  81,  86,  175,  176; 
expedition  from,  92,  93,  120;  re- 
turn to,  from  South  Pass,  134-141; 
army  headquarters  at,  142 ;  news 
from,  148;  commandant  of,  169; 
deaths  at,  169;  pest  house  at,  169; 
court-martial  at,  169 ;  discipline  at, 
169,  170;  mail  for,  170;  cholera 
at,  170;  routine  at,  170,  171; 
prices  at,  171,  172;  farm  at,  171, 
172;  visitors  at,  172,  173;  recruits 
at,  174;  Christmas  at,  174,  175; 
talent  at,  175;  winter  evenings  at, 
175;  changes  in,  176;  War  College 
at,  176;  motion-pictures  at,  176; 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  at,  176;  prison  at, 
176;   incident   at,    176,    177 

Fort   Madison,    saloons   in,    59 

Fort  Platte,    127 

Fort  Sanford,  dragoons  at,  91;  aban- 
donment of,   91 


Fort    Scott,    erection   of,    93 ;    location 

of,    93 
Fort  Smith,  dragoons  at,  79;  military 

road  to,    80;    barracks   at,    81,    86; 

reference  to,  85;  provisions  for,  86 
Fort    Snelling,    1,    77,    119;    military 

road   to,    80,    81;    provisions    from, 

116;    dragoons    at,    161 
Fort    Towson,    military    road    to,    80 ; 

reference  to,  257 
Fort  "Washita,   102,  229 
Fort  Wayne,   erection  of,   81,   85,   86; 

location    of,    81;    garrison    at,    86; 

abandonment  of,   93 
Fountain   Creek,    137 
Fox,   Private,   175 
Fox  Indians,  50,   90,   243 ;   cession  by, 

88;  dragoons  among,  91,  95;  treaty 

with,   91,   92,   94;   removal  of,   96 
Fox  River,  dragoons  on,   15,   62 
Franklin,   Lieutenant,   258 
Franklin    (Missouri),   30 
Freeborn     County      (Minnesota),     de- 
scription of  country  in,   57 
Freight,   cost  of,   250 
Fremont,     John     C,     124,     128,     133, 

138,    258,    259,    261;     conquest    of 

California  by,    152 
Fremont  County    (Wyoming),   259 
Frontier,    location   of,    1;    soldiers   on, 

1-12;   defense  of,  34,   76-87,   88 
Fruit,  presence  of  wild,    71,    134,    146 
Fuel,   scarcity  of,    136 
Fur  companies,  protection  of,   88 

Gaines,  Edmund  P.,  recommendations 
of,  2,  3 ;  praise  by,  75 ;  reference 
to,    80,    241,    249,    251 

Galena  (Illinois),  16,  59,  62,  163, 
243 

Gallagher,   Joseph   S.,   241 

Gallaher,    Ruth,    241 

Game,  abundance  of,  10,  11,  38,  93, 
106,  109,  110,  145,  152,  198,  204; 
subsistence  on,  135 ;  scarcity  of, 
136,    137;   hunting  of,    154,   243 

Gantt,  Captain,  65,   69,   72 

Gardiner,  J.  W.  T.,   163,   166 


19 


274 


INDEX 


Garrison  life,  monotony  of,  59,  60 

Gasconade  River,  camp  on,  31 

Geese,   flocks  of,    109 

Gibson,  Captain,  156;  -wounds  of,  157 

Gila  River,   dragoons  on,    153,    154 

Gillespie,  Archibald  H.,  156,   160 

Glennon    (dragoon),   175 

Goose  River,   buffalo  on,    165 

Grand  Forks    (North  Dakota),   262 

Grand  Island,  dragoons  at,  69 

Grand   Pawnee  Indians    (see   Pawnee 

Indians) 
Grand  River,  25,  189 
Grant  County    (Minnesota),   262 
Grasshoppers,    145 
Gray,   Lieutenant,   159 
Great  Nemaha  River,  crossing  of,    82 
Green  Bay,   dragoons  in,   15,   61,   62 
Green  Feather    (Chief),   166 
Gregg,  Josiah,  256 
Grier,   Captain,   169 
Grier,   'William  N.,   91 
Gros  Ventre  Indians,   72 
Gypsum,  reference  to,   100,   188,   215, 
216,   217,   218,   222,    223;    descrip- 
tion of,   203 

Half-breeds,  117,  118,  119;  condi- 
tion of,  166,  167;  character  of, 
167 

Hamilton,  Joseph  V.,  opinion  of,  83, 
84;   reference  to,    253 

Hamilton   County   (Kansas),   259 

Hamilton  County  (Nebraska),  67 

Hammond,  Lieutenant,  156;  death  of, 
157 

Hare,   description   of,    196 

Hay,   price   of,    171 

"Heaven's  Avenue",   131 

Helen  Mar  (Steamboat),  dragoons  on, 
14,    15 

Hildreth.  James,   242 

Hill    (dragoon),    175 

Hoffman,   Charles  F.,   243 

Hogs,   hunting  of  wild,   154 

Honors,  Louis,  land  grant  to,  50 

Horse  Creek,   126,   135,   136 

Horse-flies,    162 


Horse  meat,  rations  of,  155 ;  feast  of, 

159 
Horses,    herds   of   wild,    37,    71,    101, 

214,   215,   217,,  227;   starvation  of, 

107 
Horseshoe  Creek,    129 
Hot   Spring   Gap,    134 
Howitzers,  effectiveness  of,  157 
Hudson   Bay,    165 

Hudson  Bay  Company,   118,  161,  166 
Hughes,   John  T.,   260 
Hundred    and    Ten    Mile    Creek,    103, 

107,   144 
Hunting,  description  of,   10,   11,  243; 

expedition   for,    93,    94 

Ida  County   (Iowa),  257 

Illinois  Creek,  25,   81 

Independence    (Missouri),    trail   from, 
99;   reference  to,    103,    256 

Independence  Rock,   131,   134 

Indian  agents,  cooperation  with,  88 

Indian   lands,    zone   of,    77;    squatters 
on,  90;  cession  of,  91,  92 

Indians,  attacks  of,  9,  10 ;  fighting  of, 
30;  policy  toward,  34;  employment 
of,  on  expedition,  35;  painter  of, 
35;  relations  of,  37;  hospitality  of, 
39;  councils  with,  39-45,  47,  64 
songs  of,  45,  46 ;  friendship  of,  48 
75;  hostility  of,  61;  presents  for, 
66,  69,  70,  73,  117,  129,  135;  re 
ception  by,  67;  etiquette  of,  67 
peace  among,  72 ;  removal  of,  76, 
77,  85,  96;  numbers  of,  77;  pun 
ishment  of,  84 ;  treaties  with, 
89;  protection  of,  89;  appearance 
of,  91;  poverty  of,  93;  reference 
to,  102,  161,  246;  capture  of,  117; 
labor  of,  171;  attitude  of,  186,  187; 
camp  of,  191;  trade  with,  247  (see 
also  various  tribes) 

Infantry   (see  Soldiers) 

Intemperance,  extent  of,  4,  5 ;  results 
of,  4,  5 ;  deaths  from,  5 

Intoxication    (see  Drunkenness) 

Iowa,   dragoons  in,   108;   character  of 
northwestern,   110 


INDEX 


275 


Iowa  City   (Iowa),  dragoons  at,  91 

Iowa  Indians,  location'  of,   77 

Iowa  River,  Foxes  on,  96 

Iowa  Territory,  settlement  of,  85 ;  dra- 
goons in,  88-96;  military  posts  in, 
88-96;  Indian  cessions  in,  88,  89, 
91,  92;  Governor  of,  90;  area  of, 
108,  115 

Irvine,   C,   241 

Izard,   J.  P.,   11 

Jackson,  Andrew,  13,  41,  42,  43,  66, 
70 

Jackson  (Tennessee),  election  at,  15 

Jackson  Grove,  145 

Jefferson  Barracks,  6,  7,  79,  80,  243 ; 
expedition  from,  8 ;  march  of  dra- 
goons to,  13-22;  description  of,  17, 
18;  cholera  at,  18;  strategic  loca- 
tion of,   18;  dragoons  at,  30 

Jefferson  County   (Iowa),   92,  257 

Jesuits,   mission   of,    79 

Jesup,   Thomas   S.,   253 

Johnson   County    (Nebraska),   251 

Johnston,  Abraham  R.,  97,  102,  155, 
183,  187,  191,  209,  229,  260; 
command  of,  156;  death  of,  157; 
accident   to,    185,    186 

Joliet,  Louis,   15 

Jones,  George  W.,  245 

Jones,  Roger,  29,  241 

Jordan,   James,   90 

June,  Chotian,   164' 

Jutan  (Chief),  appearance  of,  65; 
councils  with,  66 

Kansas,  dragoons  in,  64;  fort  in,  93; 
trails  across,   97 

Kansas  Indians,  location  of,  77 

Kansas  River,  75,   144 

Kearney  Avenue,   176 

Kearny,  Stephen  W.,  choice  of,  as 
lieutenant  colonel,  14 ;  reference  to, 
14,  32,  36,  52,  82,  124,  125,  126, 
133,  134,  137,  139,  140,  144,  146, 
154,  160,  249,  250,  256,  258,  259, 
260,  261;  arrival  of,  at  Fort  Gib- 
son, 47;  praise  for,  48;  exploration 


of  Des  Moines  Valley  by,  49-59 ; 
treaty  negotiated  by,  56;  forced 
marches  by,  57;  promotion  of,  60, 
148;  recommendations  of,  78;  com- 
mand of,  79,  128,  129;  council  of, 
with  Indians,  83,  84,  85,  89,  127- 
129,  135;  Oregon  Trail  march  of, 
120-133;  route  of,  121,  129,  130; 
welcome  of,  127;  army  of,  142, 
143 ;  proclamation  of,  149,  150 ; 
march  of,  to  California,  151-160; 
wounds  of,  157;  reinforcements  for, 
158,    159 

Keokuk  (Chief),  village  of,  53 

Keokuk    (Iowa),   250 

Kickapoo  Indians,  reservation  of,  65; 
location  of,  77 

Kimball    (dragoon),   175 

King,  Mathew,  death  of,  10 

Kingsbury,  G.  P.,  journal  by,  65;  ref- 
erence to,   65,   72,   74,  251 

Kiowa  Indians,  35,  37,  39,  47,  248; 
friendship  of,  44 ;  visit  of,  to  Fort 
Gibson,  45 

Kittson,  Norman  "W.,    164,   165 

Kossuth  County  (Iowa),  march 
through,  57 

Labashure,  Frank,  54 

Labor,  cost  of,  171 

Lac-qui-parle,   116 

Lac    qui    Parle    County    (Minnesota), 

257 
Lake  Huron,  dragoons  on,   15 
Lake  Pepin,  56 
Land   grant,   50 

Langworthy,   Assistant  Surgeon,    170 
Laramie  Peak,   126 
Laramie  River,  127;  dragoons  on,  135 
Las  Vegas,   148 
Latrobe,  Charles  J.,  243 
Lea,  Albert  M.,  52,  54,  57,  58,  249 
Leavenworth,    Henry,    arrival    of,    29, 

30;  reference  to,  33,  36,  246;  death 

of,  46 
Lightning  Lake,  naming  of,  163 
Limestone,    description    of,    188,    191, 

192,   193 


276 


INDEX 


Little  Arkansas  River,  traders  on,  99 ; 
reference  to,  104,  105,  210;  camp 
on,  206,  207 

Little  Blue  River,  121,  137 

Little  Chief,  68 

Little  Nemaha  River,  crossing  of,  82 

Little  River,  187,  229,  230,  232; 
crossing  of,  234;  timber  along,  235 

Little  Rock,   189 

Lizards,  154 

Locusts,  ravages  of,   121 

Long  Legs  (Chief),   166 

Long  Prairie,   261 

Long's  Peak,  136 

Los  Angeles,  153,  160 

Louisiana,  Camp  Sabine  in,  77;  set- 
tlement of,  85 

Louisiana  Purchase,  removal  of  In- 
dians to,  76;  settlement  of,  85 

Louisville   (Kentucky),   14 

Lovell,  Captain,  report  of,   170 

Lovell,  Charles  S.,  262 

Lovell,  Jos.,   241 

Lowell,  James  R.,  poem  of,   173 

Lower  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  Riv- 
er  (see  Cimarron  River) 

Lowry,  David,   254 

Lupton,  Lan.  P.,  command  of,  64 

Lyon  County  (Iowa),  113 

McClure,  George  W.,  death  of,  46 

McCrate,  Thomas,   91 

McKenzie,   Private,    175 

Macomb,  Alexander,  241,  253 

Madison,  James,  181 

Magpies,   131 

Marquette,   Father,    15 

Martin,  Judge,  murder  of,  40 ;  son  of, 

41 
Martin,  Matthew  W.,   41 
Mason,  Richard  B.,  22,  28,   81,   232; 

promotion  of,  61;  report  of,  62 
Mason's  Fort,  232 
Mayes  County   (Oklahoma),  263 
Medal,  gift  of,   73 
Medium  Lake,   109,  257 
Merrill,   Moses,    253 
Mexican    "War,    volunteers    for,     142, 


144;  dragoons  in,  142;  veterans  of, 
175 

Mexicans,  escort  of,  106 ;  salute  to, 
106;  trade  with,  139;  army  of, 
148,  149;  prosperity  of,  149;  arms 
of,  157;  skirmish  with,  158,  159, 
160 

Mexico,  expedition  into,  8,  9 ;  trade 
with,  103-  boundary  of,  106;  war 
with,    142,    176 

Military  posts,  12;  line  of,  77,  78; 
construction  of,  79;  need  of,  81; 
erection  of  temporary,   88 

Military  roads,  construction  of,  7;  lo- 
cation of,  79 ;  survey  of,  80 ;  work 
on,   80,   81 

Militia,  rallying  point  of,  79 

Miller,  O.  H.  P.,  56 

Miller    (dragoon),   175 

Milwaukee  (Wisconsin),  dragoons  at, 
62 

Minnesota,  dragoons  in,   55,   108,   161 

Minnesota  River,  110,  111,  115,  257 
(see  also  St.  Peter's  River) 

Mirages,  154;  description  of,  202,203 

Missionaries,   116;  school  of,   165 

Mississippi  River,  dragoons  on,  15, 
16,  161,  162;  scenes  along,  16,  56; 
Indians  in  valley  of,  77,  85;  refer- 
ence to,   78,   88,  243 

Mississippi  Valley,    133 

Missouri,  boundary  of,  24;  reference 
to,  29,  137,  177;  topography  of, 
50;  settlement  of,  85;  removal  of 
Indians  to,  96;  volunteers  in,  142; 
limestone  in,  188 

Missouri  Historical  Society,  258 

Missouri  Indians,  location  of,  83 ;  con- 
dition of,   83 ;   council  with,   83,   84 

Missouri  River,  march  to,  11,  12; 
crossing  of,  50,  84 ;  reference  to, 
78,  98,  114,  126,  173,  176;  dra- 
goons on,  79,  108:  road  along,  82; 
scenery  along,  82;  Indian  raid  on, 
86;  fort  on,  93;  Audubon  on,  94; 
valley  of,    121 

Monpisha   (Chief),  43 

Montrose   (Iowa),  51 


INDEX 


277 


Moore,  Benjamin  D.,  120,  130,  144, 
185,  186,  213;  command  of,  156; 
death  of,   157 

Morality,  agencies  for,  4,  5 

Moro  Creek,   148 

Morris  County  (Kansas),  256 

Mortality,  rate  of,   5 

Mosquitoes,  134,  144,  145,  163,  164, 
165,   205 

Mounted  Rangers,  181 

Mulberry  Grove,  dragoons  at,  99 ;  ref- 
erence to,  185,  206 

Mule  meat,  rations  of,   158 

Mules,  dragoons  mounted  on,   151 

Muskogee  County   (Oklahoma),  245 

Mutiny,  punishment  for,  3 

Nashville  (Tennessee),  dragoons  at,  15 
Navajo  Indians,  uprisings  of,   152 
Nebraska,  dragoons  in,   64,  65 
Nelson,  A.  D.,   166,   167 
Nemaha  County  (Nebraska),  251 
Nemaha  River,  crossing  of,   65 
Neosho  River,  military  post  on,  245 
Nescatunga   River    (see   Salt   Fork   of 

the  Arkansas  River) 
Nes-cu-ca-sca-pay  River,   223 
New  Mexico,  142,  153,  263 
New   Orleans,   243 
New  York,  dragoons  from,  242 
New  York  City,  recruits  from,  2,   14 
Neutral  Ground,  occupation  of,  88 
Nicollet,   J.   N.,    110 
Nicollet  County    (Minnesota),   257 
Ninnescah    River,    187,    224;    charac- 
ter of,  204,  214;  topography  along, 
204,    215;    game    along,    204,    215; 
vegetation    along,    204,    214;    rock 
formation    along,    204,    205 ;    tribu- 
tary of,  205;  gjTJSum  near,  215 
Nishnabotna    River,    Indian    uprising 

along,  86,  87 
Noble,   Patrick,    110,    111,    144 
North  Dakota,  dragoons  in,   161 
North    Fork    of    the    Canadian    River, 
187,     224,     226,     227;     vegetation 
along,   224,  225;  topography  along, 
224,  225;   gypsum  along,  224;  tim- 


ber along,  224,  225,  236;  tributary 
of,   225;   crossing  of,   236 
North  Platte  River,  dragoons  on,  129, 
130 

Oats,  price  of,   171 

O'Brien,  James,   170,   174 

Ocate  River,    148 

Ohio  River,  dragoons  on,  14,  15 

Oklahoma,   trails   in,   97 

Omaha  Indians,  dragoons  among,  65 
council  with,  66 ;  territory  of,  66 
number  of,  66;  location  of,  77 
escort  for,    82 

Omega   (Steamboat),  94;  crew  of,  255 

Oregon,   emigrants  to,    126,    131,    134 

Oregon  Trail,  Kearny  on,  120-133; 
description  of,  121,  122;  emigrants 
on,  133 ;  reference  to,  141,  258, 
259 

Oregon  Trail  Junction,   103 

Osage  (Iowa),  dragoons  in  vicinity 
of,    56 

Osage  Indians,  27,  35,  47,  183,  186, 
201,  204,  224,  225;  buffalo  hunt- 
ing by,  29;  band  of,  35;  peace 
with,  42 ;  leader  of,  43 ;  location 
of,  77;  dragoons  among,  98;  theft 
by,  184,  185,  199-201,  205;  chief 
of,  184,  186,  217,  219;  camp  of, 
198,    199,   216 

Osage  mission,  49 

Osage  River,   75,   78 

Osage  trail,    191,    192,    194 

O'Shea    (dragoon),   175 

Oto  Indians,  dragoons  among,  65,  66; 
location  of,  77,  83 ;  uprising  of,  82, 
86,  87;  condition  of,  83;  council 
with,   83,   84;   village  of,   251 

Otoe  County   (Nebraska),  251 

Owls,   144 

Pacific   coast,    army  on,    151 
Pacific  Ocean,   132,   159 
Pacific    Slope,    176 
Paducah    (Kentucky),   15 
Pa-ha-bee     Creek,      184,      204;      rock 
formation   on,    199 


278 


INDEX 


Palmer,  Joel,  121,   122,   123,   134,  258 
Park  River,   165 

Parkman,    Francis,    122,    258;    obser- 
vation  of,    147 
Parrott,  J.   C,   56,   246 
Partridges,   215 
Patrol  duty,  90 

Pawnee  chiefs,   visit  of,   to   Fort  Gib- 
son, 45 
Pawnee  expedition,   appearance  of,  35 
Pawnee  Fork,  dragoons  at,  74;  cross- 
ing of,  74;  reference  to,   106,   141 
Pawnee  Indians,  expedition  to,  34-48; 
country  of,   34,   77;   control  of,  34; 
signs  of,   36;   reference  to,    37,   47, 
84,  98,  199,  200,  201;  prisoner  of, 
40,    41;    dragoons    among,    67-69; 
tribes  of,  67,  68;   condition  of,  68; 
council  with,  68,  69;  friendship  of, 
73,    74 
Pawnee  Loups,  chief  of,   68   (see  also 

Pawnee  Indians) 
Pawnee  Mohas,   187 
Pawnee  Peaks,   221,   223 
Pawnee    Pict    Indians     (see    Pawnee 

Indians) 
Pawnee  Pict  village,  34 
Pawnee   Republics,    chief   of,    68    (see 

also  Pawnee  Indians) 
Pawnee    Tappeige    Indians,    chief    of, 

68    (see  also  Pawnee  Indians) 
Pawnee  village,  description  of  council 

at,  45 
Pawsa  Salt   (see  Pewsa  Salt) 
Pay,  rate  of,   173 
Pecos,  dragoons  at,   149 
Peltries,  marketing  of,    163 
Pembina     (North    Dakota),     dragoons 
to,     161,     165;    reference    to,     163, 
164,  262 ;   missionary  in,   165 ;   set- 
tlement    at,     165;     description     of, 
165;     Indians    about,     166;     social 
life  at,   167;   military  post  at,   167, 
168;    departure   of   dragoons   from, 
168 
Pembina   River,    165 
Pemmican,  marketing  of,    163 
Pennsylvania,  recruits  from,   52 


Peoria  (Illinois),  dragoons  at,  61; 
reference  to,   243 

Perkins,   David,   captaincy  of,    14 

Perry,   Captain,   173 

Perryville  (Tennessee),  recruits  from, 
15 

Pewsa  Salt,  203,  217,  218,  219 

Pico,    Andres,    command   of,    156,    157 

Pike's  Peak,    136,    137 

Pioneers,    character   of,    172,    173 

Pittsburg  wagons,   103 

Pittsburgh  (Pennsylvania),  lumber 
from,    51 

Plains,  desolation  of,  130,  131,  132; 
description  of,   136,   176 

Platte  County,   court  of,   172 

Platte  River,  dragoon  march  along, 
64,  65,  67,  122,  123;  valley  of, 
67;  reference  to,  69,  71,  82,  126, 
135,   136,   251;   crossing  of,   82 

Poinsett,  Joel  R.,  plans  of,  79;  refer- 
ence to,   252 

Pole  Creek,   136 

Pomme  de  Terre  Lake  (Minnesota), 
262 

Pope,  John,   166,   261 

Pope  County   (Minnesota),  261 

Pork,  price  of,   171 

Portsmouth    (Sloop),    159 

Post  Records,  contents  of,  169,  176 

Potawatomi  Indians,  location  of,  77; 
Jesuits  among,  79;  dragoons 
among,  84,  85,  87,  108;  treaty 
with,  84,  85;  lands  of,  84,  85;  ref- 
erence to,  93 

Prairie,    appearance    of,     8,     9,     145, 
146,     162;    condition    of,    53,    54; 
Gibraltar     of,      125,      126;      march 
across,   183 
Prairie  chickens,   144 
Prairie  dogs,   99,   123,   137,   198 
Prairie    du    Chien     (Wisconsin),    59, 

243;   treaty  at,   76 
Price,   B.  F.,  246 
Prices,  record  of,   171,   172 
Prisoners,  exchange  of,  41,  43,  44 
Provisions,  prices  of,   171,   172 
Pueblo   (Colorado),  251 


INDEX 


279 


Punishment,   nature  of,    174 
Purgatory  River,  147 

Quail,    144 

Queenstown  Heights,    14 

Rabbits,   215 

Raccoon  Fork  of  the  Des  Moines  Riv- 
er, dragooris  at,  53,  55 ;  return  to- 
ward, 57;  post  at,  58,   94 

Raccoon  River,  fort  on,  94;  dragoons 
on,  114,  257;  valley  of,   114 

Ramsey  County   (North  Dakota),   257 

Rangers,  organization  of,  12 ;  reor- 
ganization of,   13;  captain  of,   181 

Rations,   reduction   of,    147 

Rattlesnakes,    130,    145 

Recruiting,   expense  of,   1,   2 

Red  Buttes,   130 

Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River  (see 
Salt  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River) 

Red  River,  Indians  on,  34,  77;  ref- 
erence to,   35,   38,    78,   230,   257 

Red  River  of  the  North,  118,  168; 
visit  of  "Woods  to,  161-168;  cross- 
ing of,  164;  military  post  on,  164; 
valley  of,   164;   branches  of,    165 

Red  River  trail,  dragoons  on,   162 

Red  River  "Valley,  products  of,  163, 
164 

Reno  Lake    (Minnesota),   261 

Reynoldsburgh   (Tennessee),   15 

Rice,   Corporal,   246 

Richardson    County    (Nebraska),    251 

Richlands  County  (North  Dakota), 
262 

Riley,  Bennet,  march  of,  8-12 ;  refer- 
ence to,   103,  242 

Rio  Grande  River,   dragoons  on,   151, 

152,    153 
"Roberts,    Benj.    S.,    51 

Roberts,    Sergeant,   21 

Roberts  County   (South  Dakota),   257 

Rock   Island    (Illinois),   62 

Rock  Salt,  101,  217,  256;  dragoons 
at,    186;    examination   of,    186,    187 

Rocky  Mountains,  29 ;  dragoon  trav- 
els to,   64-75;   view  of,    71 


"Rocky   Mountain   album",    131 

Rogers    (dragoon),    175 

Rolette,   Joe,    165 

Round   Grove,    75,    103 

Ruff,   C.  F.,   command  of,   90,   92 

Rush  River,   164 

Ryburn,   Colonel,    183,    184 

Sac  Indians,  50,  58,  90,  243;  cession 
by,  88;  dragoons  among,  91,  95; 
treaty  with,  91,  92,  94;  country  of, 
249 

Sac  and  Fox  Agency,   91,   95,   254 

Sackett's   Harbor,    dragoons   from,    14 

Sagebrush,    125 

Sage  grouse,    130,    131,    132 

St.   Anthony,    243 

St.  Louis,  soldiers  in,  7,  8;  hospital 
in,  8;  dragoons  in,  16,  17;  refer- 
ence to,  50,  138,  243,  250;  sup- 
plies from,  95 ;  troops  from,  142 ; 
mail  from,   170;  prices  at,   171 

St.  Paul,  163 

St.  Paul   (Steamboat),  170 

St.  Peter's,  261 

St.   Peter's  River,   dragoons  on,   108 

St.  Vincent  parish,   167 

St.  "Vrain,  Ceran,   72,   138 

Salt,  presence  of,   100,   101,   208,  209 

Salt  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  River,  182, 
183,  184,  187,  202,  203,  204,  217^ 
222;  route  of  Boone  along,  194- 
199;  topography  along,  194-198, 
200,  217,  218;  vegetation  along, 
194-198,  201,  217;  rock  formation 
along,  194-200,  217,  218;  crossing 
of,  196;  tributaries  of,  196,  197, 
198,    199,    202,   203,   204 

Salt  plains,  182,  183,  184,  188;  dra- 
goons on,  186,  187;  report  of,  199; 
exploration  of,  201-203;  descrip- 
tion of,  201-203,  218,  219;  vegeta- 
tion on,  203,  221;  game  on,  203; 
salt  formation  on,  218,  219,  220; 
gypsum  on,  220,  221;  rock  forma- 
tion of,  221;  topography  of,  221; 
water  on,  224,  225 

Salt  Rock    (see  Rock  Salt) 


280 


INDEX 


San  Bernardo,   dragoons   at,    158 

San  DieRo,  march  of  dragoons  to, 
151-160;  capture  of,  156;  rein- 
forcements from,  158,  159;  arrival 
of  dragoons  at,  159 ;  reference  to, 
260 

San  Gabriel  River,  skirmish  at,  159, 
160 

San  Isabel,    156 

San  Pascual,  battle  at,   156,   157 

Sandstone,  189,  190,  191 

Santa  Anna,    106 

Santa  Fe,  escort  to,  30 ;  traders  to, 
81,  97;  traU  to,  97,  99,  107,  184, 
185;  reference  to,  103,  105,  106, 
138,  143,  146,  147,  148,  207,  256, 
260;  refugee  from,  148;  occupa- 
tion of,  149,  150;  departure  from, 
151;   dragoons   at,   152,   170 

Santa  Fe  Trail,  soldiers  on,  8-12 ; 
dragoons  on,  64,  74,  141,  144; 
traders  on,  102,  207;  reference  to, 
120,    209;   route  along,    206 

Santa  Maria,    dragoons   at,    156 

Sauk  Indians,  captives  of,  82  (see 
also   Sac   Indians) 

Sauk  Rapids  (Minnesota),  162,  164, 
168,    261 

Sauk  River,   dragoons  on,   162 

Scott,  Winfield,   257,   258 

Scott's  Bluffs,  125 

Second   United    States   Dragoons,    182 

Secretary  of  "War,  opinion  of,  5,  79 ; 
reference  to,    35 

Seminole  Indians,    27,    77 

Senate   (United  States),  report  to,   8 

Seneca  Indians,   35,   47 

Sequoyah   County    (Oklahoma),    254 

Seventh   United   States   Infantry,    25 

Shawnee  Indians,  location  of,  77: 
reference  to,  230,   232 

Shavir-wa-cos-pay  River,  Boone  on, 
203;  vegetation  along,  203,  204; 
Tock  formation  on,  203,  204;  game 
on,  204;  reference  to,  204,  217; 
description  of  valley  of,  215,  216, 
217;  crossing  of,  216  (now  called 
Chikaskia   River) 


Sheep,  herds  of  mountain,   131 

Shetek  Lake,  exploration  of,  110; 
scenery  about,   111 

Sheyenne  River,   164 

Simonton,  J.  P.,  fort  built  by,   85 

Simpson,   Dr.,    191 

Simpson,   Sergeant,   183 

Sioux  City,  dragoons  in  vicinity  of, 
114 

Sioux   Falls,   dragoons   at,    112 

Sioux  Indians,  fort  of,  55 ;  trade 
with,  56;  appearance  of,  56;  ref- 
erence to,  58,  93;  war  with,  68; 
cession  by,  88;  theft  by.  111,  112, 
117,  118;  visit  of  Sumner  among, 
115-119;  hostility  of,  117;  hunting 
ground  of,  118,  119;  council  with, 
127-129;  chief  of,  129;  battle 
ground  of,    165 

Sioux  villages,  expedition  to,  53 

Sixth  United   States  Infantry,    18,   49 

Skunk  River,   95 

Smart,  Josiah,   92 

Socorro    (Mexico),    152 

Soldiers,  distribution  of,  1 ;  charity 
for,  7,  8 ;  families  with,  8 ;  long 
march  of,  8-12 ;  life  of,  12 ;  routine 
of,  170,  171;  conflict  of,  with  civ- 
ilians, 172;  discharge  of,  172;  pay 
of,  173  (see  also  Dragoons  and 
Army) 

Sonora    (Mexico),   155 

South  Dakota,   dragoons  in,   108 

South  Pass,  march  to,  120-133;  dra- 
goons through,  132 ;  reference  to, 
133,  259;  return  from,  134-141 

South  Platte  River,  64,  124,  136, 
137;   scenery  along,    71 

Spanish,  settlements  of,   126 

Spies,   capture  of,   146 

Springfield  (Missouri),  description  of, 
31 

Springfield    (Ohio),   14 

Squatters,   removal  of,   90,    172 

Squirrels,   109 

Stanton,    Henry,    253 

State  Historical  Society  of  Iowa,  ma- 
terial secured  by,    181 


INDEX 


281 


stealing,  punishment  for,  3 

Stearns  County    (Minnesota),   261 

Steen,   Enoch,   command  of,   64,    65 

Steubenville   (Ohio),   14 

Stockton,  Robert  F.,  conquest  by,  152 ; 
reference  to,    156,    160,   261 

Stokes,   Edward,    156 

Storm,   description  of,    197,   210 

Stranger  River,   144 

Styles,  L.  A.,  246 

Subsistence,    stock   of,    65 

Sumner,  Edwin  V.,  recruiting  service 
of,  14,  52,  78;  reference  to,  20, 
49,  148,  153,  171,  174,  242,  257, 
262;  forage  of,  26;  command  of, 
61;  march  of,  62;  visit  of,  among 
Sioux  Indians,  115-119;  Indian 
council  of,   117;  protest  of,   172 

Sumner   Place,    176 

Surgeon  General,  opinion  of,  4 

Swan  Lake,    110,   257 

Swans,   flocks  of,    109 

Sweetwater  Mountains,   133,   259 

Sweetwater  River,  dragoons  on,  131, 
132 

Swords,   Major,   260 

Swordsmanship,  training  in,   32 

Sykes,  Dr.,   166 


To-ca-sa-ba    (Chief),   186,   217 

Tongue   River,    165 

Topography    (see  particular  places) 

To-wan-ga-ha    (Chief),    184,    217 

Toyash  Indians  (see  Pawnee  In- 
dians) 

Toyash  village,  guide  to,  37,  38;  de- 
scription of,  39 

Traders,  caravan  of,  8,  9,  11,  102, 
103,  141,  143,  185,  186,  207,  213; 
escort  for,  30,  81,  97,  99,  209, 
210;  protection  of,   88 

Trappers,    126 

Traverse  des  Sioux,   116,   119 

Treaties,  maintenance  of,  88 

Treaty,  negotiation  of,  with  Indians, 
41,  42,  43,  91,  92;  terms  of,  94; 
signing  of,   160 

Trenor,  Eustace,  reprimand  of,   169 

Trident   (Steamboat),   86 

Turkey  Creek,   9 

Turkey  River,  dragoons  on,  89 

Turkey  River  Agency,   115 

Turkeys,  abundance  of,   193,  215 

Turner,   Lieutenant,   53,    120,   258 

Turtle  Lake,  exploration  of,  110;  ref- 
erence  to,    257 

Turtle  River,   165 


Table   Creek,    post   at,    172 ;    squatters 

on,  172 
Talbot,    Private,    175 
Tallee   (Chief),   186,   219 
Taos   (Mexico),   138,  139 
Tarantulas,    154 
Ta-we-que-nah    (Chief),   43 
Taylor,    Zachary,    16,    181,   237,    243; 

appearance     of,     60 ;     letter     from, 

182;   report  to,   188 
Tennessee,  dragoons  from,   15 
Terrill,    Corporal,    246 
Tesson,   Louis   (see  Honore) 
Texas,   176 

Thespian  Society,  programs  of,   175 
Thompson,  L.  A.,  246 
Timber,  kinds  of,   100,  103,  164,   187, 

188    (see  also  particular  places) 
Timpas   Creek,    147 


Uniforms,  variety  of,  6 ;  cost  of,  6 ; 
garments   of,    6 

United  States,  army  of,  1 

Upper  Red  Fork  of  the  Arkansas  Riv- 
er (see  Salt  Fork  of  the  Arkansas 
River) 

Unswatoy's  Ferry,    189 

Van  der  Zee,  Jacob,  256,  257 

Vegas,   148 

Verdigris    River,    183;    timber    along, 

189;  tributary  of,   190 
Vigil,   Juan   B.,    149 
Vose,  J.  H.,  enlistments  by,  2 

Wabasha    (Chief),   village  of,   55,   56; 

treaty  with,   56 
Wacoah  Indians,  45 
"Wahpeton    (North  Dakota),  262 


282 


INDEX 


Wahpeton  Sioux  Indians,  dragoons 
among,    116,    117 

Wakarusa   Creek,    144 

Walnut  Creek,  dragoons  on,  99,  209 ; 
buflfalo   at,    105,    141 

Walsh    (North   Dakota),    262 

Wapello  County  (Iowa),  53,  254; 
squatter   in,    90 

War  College,  location  of,   176 

War  Department,  orders  from,   49,   62 

Warfleld,  Colonel,  210 

Warm   Spring,    129 

Warner's  ranch,   dragoons  at,   156 

Warrel,    Private,    175 

Warren    (Ohio),    14 

Wa-sha-shay,    199 

Washington  (D.  C. ),  Indians  invited 
to,    40 

Washington  County  (Arkansas  Terri- 
tory),  march  to,    26 

Washita  River,  crossing  of,  36;  ref- 
erence  to,   46 

Weco  Indians,   39 

Weld  County   (Colorado),  259 

Wellsville    (Ohio),    14 

West,  development  of,   12 

West  Point  (New  York),  Davis  in, 
14;   reference  to,   92,    176 

Weston    (Missouri),    172 

We-ter-ra-shah-ro  (Chief),  council 
with,  42 ;  visit  of,  to  Fort  Gibson, 
45 

Wharton,  Captain,  escort  commanded 
by,  30;  reference  to,  103,  257; 
death  of,    169 

Wheat,  price  of,   171 


Wheeling    (West  Virginia),    14 
Wheelock,  T.  B.,  38,  46,  248;  journal 

of,   246 
Whipple   Lake    (Minnesota),    261 
Whiskey,  rations  of,  4,  5 ;  traders  in, 
66,    172;    sale   of,    83,   95,   96;    evils 
of,    86,     128,     129;    effects    of,    89; 
demand   for,    173 
"Whiskey  Point",    173 
White,   James,   50,   51,    60 
White  Rock  Creek,   233 
Wild  Rice  River,   164 
Wind   River,    133 
Wind  River  Mountains,   259 
Winnebago   Indians,   alarm  from,    12; 
cession    by,    88;    condition    of,    89; 
dragoons  among,    115 
Winneshiek   County    (Iowa),    254 
Winona    (Minnesota),    dragoons   near, 

56 
Wisconsin  River,   dragoons  on,   15 
Wislizenus,   Adolph,    124,    258 
Wislizenus,  Frederick  A.,   258 
Wolf  Creek,  crossing  of,  82 
Wolves,    123,    145,    155,    157 
Woodbury   County    (Iowa),    257 
Woods,     Samuel,     command     of,     161; 
orders   to,    161 ;    reference   to,    162, 
165;    Indian    council    of,    166;    re- 
port of,    168 

Young    Men's    Christian    Association, 
176 

Zandia    (Mexico),   152 
Zanesville   (Ohio),  14 


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